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General E46 Forum
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Old 10-04-2005, 10:03 PM   #1
driftinsequence
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everything about the intake camshaft sensor

Well, everything except for the DIY which could be found here.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...amshaft+sensor

Here are some of the things to notice to see if your intake camshaft sensor or possibly your intake camshaft sensor is going out.

1) your car doesn't feel like it has much power.
*now depending on the car and the severity of the sensor, some cars
would not have that much of a noticable decrease in power while
others do.

2) your car has stalled on acceleration or deceleration. how hard you accelerate or decelerate does not matter, usually under 40mph this would happen.

3) your car does not want to start the first time, or, the car hesitates for a bit and then starts. when i say hesitate, i don't mean to say that the battery is weak and thus your starter motor doesn't have the "kick" to turn your car over. I mean that you have full "kick" of the starter motor but the car won't turn on.



>>>>> these are some of the common errors I found and some have personally experienced. Since this is a big problem as it seems on the E46's, I thought I would share my experiences into helping you guys since you helped me on this very issue.


NOTE: these are the most common noticable problems. No check engine light or other dashlights have been turned on. Do not attempt to arbitrarily change the intake camshaft sensor without checking fault codes first!


part runs about $110 plus you need to get a new o-ring which is $1. Stick with OEM since I don't think many other places would have it.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:05 PM   #2
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thanks,

did you do it yourself? How did you do it? is it easy? i'd like to do it myself rather than going to the dealership. one shop was telling me it's the throttle body something....will take 1/2 day to fix..... I think it is the camshaft sensor(same symptoms)
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:18 PM   #3
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Great write up. I just changed mine and it was relatively easy. Do a search or buy a Bently manual.

Have your codes checked. The common code for this sensor going is 0344.

The sensor and O ring cost me $86 at the dealer (using my BMWCCA discount) and I had to purchase a 32mm open end wrench from Sears ($26) to complete the job.

My car was experiencing hard start issues and a SES light. No issues since I replaced the sensor!
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:37 PM   #4
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konijay, it only would take you 30 minutes to an hour max. it all depends how fast you work. this is the basic work involved, take off the airbox which is only two screws and a clip basically, easy. the rest is just unclipping the intake camshaft sensor wire and putting the new one in. you have to take a piece called the solenoid off, easy, just use a wrench and presto. very very simple. if you need any further assistance, pm me, ill be glad to help a fellow fanatic out.
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Old 10-23-2005, 12:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftinsequence
konijay, it only would take you 30 minutes to an hour max. it all depends how fast you work. this is the basic work involved, take off the airbox which is only two screws and a clip basically, easy. the rest is just unclipping the intake camshaft sensor wire and putting the new one in. you have to take a piece called the solenoid off, easy, just use a wrench and presto. very very simple. if you need any further assistance, pm me, ill be glad to help a fellow fanatic out.

any pics? can't seem to figure out where the sensor connects under the intake manifold.
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Old 10-23-2005, 03:04 PM   #6
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if you take your stock airbox or intake system out, and you take a flash light, you can actually run your hand down the whole line. Pictures are kinda hard because it is only something your hand can feel and see. i've tried, trust me.
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Old 10-23-2005, 03:15 PM   #7
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hey i had a simoilar problem 5 months ago and it turned out to be my exhaust camshaft sensor.(sluggish response, huge losssss of power)

3 days ago i experience the same prtoblems, (slugiish response, huge lossss of power) however suprisingly, when i checked my fault code reader it concluded that i have a evap leak.. wut do u htink it is?

i know how it feels when u have a bad camnshaft sensor and im thinking my code reader is wrong since it didnt conlude that,

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Old 10-23-2005, 03:16 PM   #8
JetBlackE46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftinsequence
if you take your stock airbox or intake system out, and you take a flash light, you can actually run your hand down the whole line. Pictures are kinda hard because it is only something your hand can feel and see. i've tried, trust me.
do u have a pic of the sensor?

is the connection near the front or back of the intake manifold?

does it connect to the side or is it upside down?
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Old 10-23-2005, 04:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetBlackE46
do u have a pic of the sensor?

is the connection near the front or back of the intake manifold?

does it connect to the side or is it upside down?
Its near the TB, a couple inches under it with the harness facing at a downward angle.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:06 AM   #10
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Does your check engine light or some other indication light up if there is a fault code in the system?

My 325i hesitated this morning a couple of times which I have not experienced before. If I turn the key on without starting the engine - the check engine light is on but while driving all dash lights are normal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driftinsequence
Well, everything except for the DIY which could be found here.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...amshaft+sensor

Here are some of the things to notice to see if your intake camshaft sensor or possibly your intake camshaft sensor is going out.

1) your car doesn't feel like it has much power.
*now depending on the car and the severity of the sensor, some cars
would not have that much of a noticable decrease in power while
others do.

2) your car has stalled on acceleration or deceleration. how hard you accelerate or decelerate does not matter, usually under 40mph this would happen.

3) your car does not want to start the first time, or, the car hesitates for a bit and then starts. when i say hesitate, i don't mean to say that the battery is weak and thus your starter motor doesn't have the "kick" to turn your car over. I mean that you have full "kick" of the starter motor but the car won't turn on.



>>>>> these are some of the common errors I found and some have personally experienced. Since this is a big problem as it seems on the E46's, I thought I would share my experiences into helping you guys since you helped me on this very issue.


NOTE: these are the most common noticable problems. No check engine light or other dashlights have been turned on. Do not attempt to arbitrarily change the intake camshaft sensor without checking fault codes first!


part runs about $110 plus you need to get a new o-ring which is $1. Stick with OEM since I don't think many other places would have it.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:24 AM   #11
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not all the time. I am guessing that when my intake camshaft sensor got bad, it was when my car died on a deceleration and afterwards i felt a loss of power.


I am not sure if the check engine light comes up or not, in my case, it didn't
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Old 10-28-2005, 11:01 AM   #12
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Did any of you guys observe the condition of your original cam sensor? Was there some gooey silver crap on it? Mine has some, I cleaned it out and ptu it back in. It runs well, actually it runs like there is more valve timing advancement than with the new sensor. I feel like im getting some retard valve timing when I'm applying more than light throttle with the new sensor for some odd reason.
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Old 10-28-2005, 02:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftinsequence
Well, everything except for the DIY which could be found here.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...amshaft+sensor

Here are some of the things to notice to see if your intake camshaft sensor or possibly your intake camshaft sensor is going out.

1) your car doesn't feel like it has much power.
*now depending on the car and the severity of the sensor, some cars
would not have that much of a noticable decrease in power while
others do.

2) your car has stalled on acceleration or deceleration. how hard you accelerate or decelerate does not matter, usually under 40mph this would happen.

3) your car does not want to start the first time, or, the car hesitates for a bit and then starts. when i say hesitate, i don't mean to say that the battery is weak and thus your starter motor doesn't have the "kick" to turn your car over. I mean that you have full "kick" of the starter motor but the car won't turn on.



>>>>> these are some of the common errors I found and some have personally experienced. Since this is a big problem as it seems on the E46's, I thought I would share my experiences into helping you guys since you helped me on this very issue.


NOTE: these are the most common noticable problems. No check engine light or other dashlights have been turned on. Do not attempt to arbitrarily change the intake camshaft sensor without checking fault codes first!


part runs about $110 plus you need to get a new o-ring which is $1. Stick with OEM since I don't think many other places would have it.
What about when is cold out, mine has been doing this lately, at idle it drops to about 500rpm and it kicks back up and sometimes it dies if i don't give it gas, I heard somewhere that this might also be a camshaft sensor or maybe a VANOS, furthermore, when the car warms up a bit it doesn't idle rough anymore, by the way I don't get any lights check eng light either.
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Old 10-28-2005, 04:16 PM   #14
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is this the correct part# 12 14 7 539 165 ?

how long is the wire?
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Old 10-28-2005, 07:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Loe
Did any of you guys observe the condition of your original cam sensor? Was there some gooey silver crap on it? Mine has some, I cleaned it out and ptu it back in. It runs well, actually it runs like there is more valve timing advancement than with the new sensor. I feel like im getting some retard valve timing when I'm applying more than light throttle with the new sensor for some odd reason.
No silver goofy crap. Although there was blue loctite on the threads of the screw holding it in. I reapplied when I installed my new one.
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Old 10-28-2005, 08:04 PM   #16
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--there is a little stuff on it, i guess, maybe dirt around where the seal was.

--the wire is not too long, maybe 12 inches at most? if you look at your engine, you will see a solenoid (a round cylinder) its directly under that) to find out where it connects to, just follow the wire.
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Old 10-28-2005, 08:07 PM   #17
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two things:

1) if any of you guys are local, i can do it for you or show you where it is.

2) since people want pictures of this, ill try to get one going.
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Old 12-05-2005, 05:55 PM   #18
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seems like lots of people are encountering this problem and since i created a thread to help people with this problem, here you go. just read my review on the first post of this thread.
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:52 PM   #19
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Driftinsequence,

Thanks for your help on this. I started spending money by changing plugs (3 different sets, Bosch, Denso and NGK), spark plug boots, fuel filter, fuel injection cleaner, Oil change etc... Every time I changed a part, the car would run great for a week or so, then all of a sudden power loss would occur every time. This stressed me out.

Finally I took it to a shop that ran a diagnostic test and found a busted vacuum hose on the secondary air pump changing this helped for a week or so, but the car still didn't feel as strong as it did when I first got it.

I then decided to search this site and found your post. I decided to go ahead and buy this intake cam sensor ($81. ..). It was pretty easy to change, while in this area, I changed out those cheap clamps (BMW and a lot of other manufactures choose to use to tighten hoses) on the 2 hoses connected to the power steering reservoir. I ended up using the same o-ring since BMW doesn't give you a o-ring with the purchase of this unit.

I started the car. It stumbled for a quick second but then caught itself. After warming up, the car feels smoother then usual. I took it for a spin and what a difference the harder I step on the gas pedal the more pressure I felt as I was being pushed back into my seat. Amazing something so little and simple would cause the car to run crappy.

I have a few questions about this part,

1. Why does it go bad?


2. The one I took off the car had a date of 8/2002 and looks different from the new one. I would imagine that this isn't the original part on the car. Is this a part that will go bad again? Or did BMW fix this problem?

3. Now, how can I tell if the exhaust side is bad?

Any help would be well appreciated.
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:10 PM   #20
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Old and New Intake Cam Sensor

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