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Old 03-30-2007, 09:36 AM   #81
ca1242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo126 View Post
Hey ca1242 would you be willing to do this install for other people. I go to school in FL right now but ill be home this summer and I live in Damascus MD. I am looking for a speaker instlal like this.

Thanks

Tim
I do it all the time. Just send me a PM when you are ready.
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:15 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan4081 View Post
With my (shallow) speakers, one 3/4" wasnt enough. The magnet hit the glass when the window rolled down. If I remember right (been a long time) I ended up with about 1.5" in rings

hmm I didn't take that into consideration. I have a pair of 6.5 JL Audio XR's and the magnets are rather big (about 1.5-2 inches deep without counting the cone of the woofer).
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Old 03-31-2007, 08:49 PM   #83
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This post has inspired me to update my stereo.
I bought a set of Boston Acoustic SL60 6.5 component speakers. But when I measure the diameter of the mid range driver, it is only 5 inch. I thought that they would be 6.5 inches in diameter??
Advertising on the BA website, the box and included papers are saying that this is 6.5 component set. WTH?? How come?
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Old 04-06-2007, 11:13 AM   #84
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So if I am planning on cutting the door on my sedan and putting a midd-bass in with a 2.75" mounting depth, how much dpeth will I need from the mdf rings? can I get away with 1.75" or does it need to be thicker?
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Old 04-06-2007, 11:22 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by DeliciousVinyl View Post
So if I am planning on cutting the door on my sedan and putting a midd-bass in with a 2.75" mounting depth, how much dpeth will I need from the mdf rings? can I get away with 1.75" or does it need to be thicker?
What I normally do is make the rings as thick as the speaker depth. Normally, you can go up to 2.5" deep in the door panel, but since you have a sedan, you have no rail behind the speaker area, so the speaker can go into the door cavity a little bit after you cut the whole. You have to account for the glass, but should have at least the needed 1/4".

Take the door panel off, cut the metal, and then measure how much you can get away with before hitting the glass. Doubt it will be a full inch, but should be able to fit the speaker.
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Old 04-06-2007, 11:27 AM   #86
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Willhaving a 2.5" mdf baffle interefere with the door panel, or will it still fit flush?
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Old 04-06-2007, 11:32 AM   #87
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Willhaving a 2.5" mdf baffle interefere with the door panel, or will it still fit flush?
2.5" It's right about the depth limit. You would have to play around with the speaker and do some measurements. You have to shave off the door plastic a bit for a 6.5, so you can do some extra dremeling on the speaker mounts for added clearance. All this would not be noticeable once you put the panel back in
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Old 05-11-2007, 08:33 AM   #88
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I wouldn't make the rings thicker than 1/2" or less than 1/2" wide with MDF. I ended up splitting the rings even after I drilled pilot holes.
How wide were your rings? I am planning 2 rings that are 3/4 thick plus an angled rings from able-audio.com that are 1.25" wide

Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1242 View Post
2.5" It's right about the depth limit. You would have to play around with the speaker and do some measurements. You have to shave off the door plastic a bit for a 6.5, so you can do some extra dremeling on the speaker mounts for added clearance. All this would not be noticeable once you put the panel back in
How deep was the ring on the first page? It does not seem that thick from the picture and did it interfere at all with the window?
I have a sedan so I know I have more room behind but I don't know how much.


these are my speakers specs
http://cdtaudio.com/pdf/ES-600.pdf
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Old 05-11-2007, 09:01 AM   #89
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How deep was the ring on the first page? It does not seem that thick from the picture and did it interfere at all with the window?
I have a sedan so I know I have more room behind but I don't know how much.
I can't remember how thick it is but I would imagine 2 - 2.5" It didn't protrude much into the hole. You obviously have to consider window clearance when building your rings to make sure the magnet doesn't hit or rub on the glass. On sedans you have more room, but at 2-3/4", should fit, but will be close. You will just have to measure and play with ring depth.
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Old 05-12-2007, 02:30 PM   #90
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will i have a problem with ZR650's in a 330ci?

will i have to cut?
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Old 05-12-2007, 03:57 PM   #91
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will i have a problem with ZR650's in a 330ci?

will i have to cut?
How deep are they?

The purpose of cutting is not for clearance, it is so that the speaker can use the door cavity as an "enclosure" (most are designed to operate this way).
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Old 05-12-2007, 05:32 PM   #92
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frontal grille protrusion: .98 inches
Mounting Depth: 2.65 inches
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:11 AM   #93
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frontal grille protrusion: .98 inches
Mounting Depth: 2.65 inches
It will be close, but should be able to go in, Just do a little measuring before you begin. Also, on the coupes, you have a window rail behind, so cutting will not give you additional clearance.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:55 AM   #94
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I recently fitted a Sony HU with some 5.25" components in the front doors and 5.25" co-axes in the back, with a 12" active sub in the boot. At first I couldn't put my finger on what was wrong, then I realised it is the midrange that is seriously weak. This thread is exactly wat I was looking for. I'll be changing the 5.25's for some door mounted 6.5's with holes in the doors. Hopefully that will sort it out.

Only question is: do I go for Genesis Profile 16 components, or the MB Quart DSD 216 components - anyone got any advice?
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:58 AM   #95
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I recently fitted a Sony HU with some 5.25" components in the front doors and 5.25" co-axes in the back, with a 12" active sub in the boot. At first I couldn't put my finger on what was wrong, then I realised it is the midrange that is seriously weak. This thread is exactly wat I was looking for. I'll be changing the 5.25's for some door mounted 6.5's with holes in the doors. Hopefully that will sort it out.

Only question is: do I go for Genesis Profile 16 components, or the MB Quart DSD 216 components - anyone got any advice?
I would strongly suggest listening to both speakers before making a decision. Your ears are the ultimate judge of what is best for you.
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Old 02-06-2008, 08:33 AM   #96
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Great thread! Let me share my impressions in order to help others who are considering cutting their doors versus mounting speakers to the door panels. I have the sedan.

For the past two weeks I've been running my MB Quart QSD-216 set attached to the door panels. (factory install) The OEM resistive membrane was on the back of the woofers along with some added foam installation on the front of the woofers sandwiched between the stock grill and woofer facing. The sound coming from the Quarts which I believe to be very quality speakers has been disappointing. I've run the RCE, PCE, and now QSD lineups in other vehicles and have always sound very good to great.

The INSTALL:
Last night I decided to follow this guide and managed to completely finish the passenger side door. The door was cut as shown in the pictures and a " MDF baffle was applied. Luckily, I only needed a " baffle as my MB Quart woofer is only 2 " deep. It was very close however. I had to raise the baffle a little my using Raamat BXT dampening which gave me enough clearance away from the window. A 1" baffle would have been less time consuming. Also, the width of the speaker rings had to be extremely narrow. In fact, it was a PITA to get them narrow enough to fit between the 3 door clips which surround the woofer on the stock door panel. One had to be cut out because of the 6 " diameter of the woofer. The MDF baffle was just wide enough to cover the outside diameter of the MB Quart woofer which was BARELY wide enough to keep the wood from splitting. (had to pre-drill all holes in order to avoid the splitting) When testing fitting the door panel back on the door, I had to adjust the MDF ring slightly so it would allow fitment of the magnet into the door while being in alignment with the door panel so it would pop back on. Major PITA but finally got it! Also, it is very important to dampen the door itself and plug the holes where the door has been cut as the opening is not flat. Raamat BXT was a life saver here in order to kill rattles. I used small strips to seal off holes between the MDF baffle and the door creating a sealed baffle into the door opening. This is KEY.

A/B Listening Comparison between the Door Panel Mount VERSUS the Door Mount Install:
Until I finish the driver's side tonight, I can A/B test the panel mounts on the driver's side versus the door mount on the passenger side. First, the sound is dramatically different when listening from left to right and I'm not just speaking of midbass between 80hz - 250hz. The midrange is more solid and full. Its almost like the left door has a DSP effect of HALL which has a slight echo effect and the right door has a ROCK effect. More subtle details are brought to the surface on the right side. When switching balance to the middle the soundstage is definitely on the right side due to strong midrange/midbass. Honestly, it almost sounds better just listening to the right set of speakers because the left sounds so much worse. Almost as if the woofers are out of phase which I confirmed they are not. The difference is that dramatic. Specific to mid-bass, it's a night/day difference. I can run my crossover down to 80hz no problem and the door mount install soaks up the bass no problem while the panel install rattles, shakes, vibrates like crazy with little output. In sum, the factory panel setup was designed for maybe 10watts RMS perhaps you can get away with 25watts RMS and be "ok". But if you are running 100+watts RMS to each door, I strongly encourage you to cut your door and properly secure your MDF baffle to the door. It's a little scary and time consuming to do so but is well worth it if you have a palette for quality front stage sound!

Few more Tips!:
Consider painting or spraying your MDF baffles with Kiltz primer or perhaps fiber glass resin to keep moisture from cracking the baffle over time.

Take your time. Don't try to get both doors done in a day. Get one done in a day or two and finish the other door another day. Don't rush it or you'll regret it. I've completed probably 5-6 car stereos from the ground up over the years and consider this project to be intermediate. It's not easy. If you feel uncomfortable, get a professional to do the job. This guide is a life saver for the DIY.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING THE DOOR. MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS ARE IN THE UP POSISTION. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS THE WIRE HARNESS BEHIND THE SHEET METAL CLOSE TO WHERE YOUR CUTTING. DON'T MAKE YOUR OPENING TOO BIG OR YOU'LL CUT IT.

After securing the mount and speaker, be sure to roll the window up/down several times before putting the door panel back on. Screw the baffle on with one screw and see if it lines up with the door and panel BEFORE securing all four sides.

Read this thread at least twice before starting your install. An extra 10 minutes of research can save you hours of install work.

Good luck and hope my impressions benefit this fine thread! If anyone's interested, I can take a few pics of the drivers side door install.

Last edited by jwerner; 02-06-2008 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:10 AM   #97
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Glad to know people are benefiting from this

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwerner View Post
Great thread! Let me share my impressions in order to help others who are considering cutting their doors versus mounting speakers to the door panels. I have the sedan.

For the past two weeks I've been running my MB Quart QSD-216 set attached to the door panels. (factory install) The OEM resistive membrane was on the back of the woofers along with some added foam installation on the front of the woofers sandwiched between the stock grill and woofer facing. The sound coming from the Quarts which I believe to be very quality speakers has been disappointing. I've run the RCE, PCE, and now QSD lineups in other vehicles and have always sound very good to great.

The INSTALL:
Last night I decided to follow this guide and managed to completely finish the passenger side door. The door was cut as shown in the pictures and a " MDF baffle was applied. Luckily, I only needed a " baffle as my MB Quart woofer is only 2 " deep. It was very close however. I had to raise the baffle a little my using Raamat BXT dampening which gave me enough clearance away from the window. A 1" baffle would have been less time consuming. Also, the width of the speaker rings had to be extremely narrow. In fact, it was a PITA to get them narrow enough to fit between the 3 door clips which surround the woofer on the stock door panel. One had to be cut out because of the 6 " diameter of the woofer. The MDF baffle was just wide enough to cover the outside diameter of the MB Quart woofer which was BARELY wide enough to keep the wood from splitting. (had to pre-drill all holes in order to avoid the splitting) When testing fitting the door panel back on the door, I had to adjust the MDF ring slightly so it would allow fitment of the magnet into the door while being in alignment with the door panel so it would pop back on. Major PITA but finally got it! Also, it is very important to dampen the door itself and plug the holes where the door has been cut as the opening is not flat. Raamat BXT was a life saver here in order to kill rattles. I used small strips to seal off holes between the MDF baffle and the door creating a sealed baffle into the door opening. This is KEY.

A/B Listening Comparison between the Door Panel Mount VERSUS the Door Mount Install:
Until I finish the driver's side tonight, I can A/B test the panel mounts on the driver's side versus the door mount on the passenger side. First, the sound is dramatically different when listening from left to right and I'm not just speaking of midbass between 80hz - 250hz. The midrange is more solid and full. Its almost like the left door has a DSP effect of HALL which has a slight echo effect and the right door has a ROCK effect. More subtle details are brought to the surface on the right side. When switching balance to the middle the soundstage is definitely on the right side due to strong midrange/midbass. Honestly, it almost sounds better just listening to the right set of speakers because the left sounds so much worse. Almost as if the woofers are out of phase which I confirmed they are not. The difference is that dramatic. Specific to mid-bass, it's a night/day difference. I can run my crossover down to 80hz no problem and the door mount install soaks up the bass no problem while the panel install rattles, shakes, vibrates like crazy with little output. In sum, the factory panel setup was designed for maybe 10watts RMS perhaps you can get away with 25watts RMS and be "ok". But if you are running 100+watts RMS to each door, I strongly encourage you to cut your door and properly secure your MDF baffle to the door. It's a little scary and time consuming to do so but is well worth it if you have a palette for quality front stage sound!

Few more Tips!:
Consider painting or spraying your MDF baffles with Kiltz primer or perhaps fiber glass resin to keep moisture from cracking the baffle over time.

Take your time. Don't try to get both doors done in a day. Get one done in a day or two and finish the other door another day. Don't rush it or you'll regret it. I've completed probably 5-6 car stereos from the ground up over the years and consider this project to be intermediate. It's not easy. If you feel uncomfortable, get a professional to do the job. This guide is a life saver for the DIY.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING THE DOOR. MAKE SURE THE WINDOWS ARE IN THE UP POSISTION. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS THE WIRE HARNESS BEHIND THE SHEET METAL CLOSE TO WHERE YOUR CUTTING. DON'T MAKE YOUR OPENING TOO BIG OR YOU'LL CUT IT.

After securing the mount and speaker, be sure to roll the window up/down several times before putting the door panel back on. Screw the baffle on with one screw and see if it lines up with the door and panel BEFORE securing all four sides.

Read this thread at least twice before starting your install. An extra 10 minutes of research can save you hours of install work.

Good luck and hope my impressions benefit this fine thread! If anyone's interested, I can take a few pics of the drivers side door install.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:16 PM   #98
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If any of you want even better sound out of the coupe door go to Home Depo buy roll of silver aluminum duct tape the one for home vent system,take the gray foam of your door,now you have bare metal, the big ass hole tape that up with the alu tape just so the tape kind of goes in the hole and then fiberglass that area so its stiff.Put foam back on and door panel,before you fiberglass make sure you have room to put them back on.This makes for a way better enclosure no more floppy areas in your door ,i did this on my M3 after installing focal 165 k2 and still felt like something was missing.O and for the people who don't want to spend big $$$ on sound deadening the alu tape + 3mm camping foam mat from dollar store and double sided thin tape works grate.You simply take the gray foam off your door, double sided tape on metal then the 3mm foam on top and then 2,3 layers of alu tape in some places 4 on top,and your gray foam goes back on top of all,sorry but i did not take pics of all of this but next time when i have my door off i will take some and post them,all of this works great and its not as heavy like the real deadening stuff and cheap.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:48 AM   #99
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Jwerner...were you using a router or jigsaw when you were cutting the rings. A router and circle jig make it really easy...just watch your fingers.

Also did you put the ensolite over the BXT? That made a noticable difference for me. Definitely worth the money.

To everyone, make sure you predrill your holes in MDF or your rings will split. Put a piece of scrap MDF underneath so you get a clean hole on both sides. If not, the back side will split when you drill.

More notes for coupes...

I had to redo the ring stack since the modeling clay made everything oily. So I used duraglas so the stack is much stronger now. I'm still using my mid-90's OZ Audio CS180s which are 3" deep with a pretty fat magnet. I really don't have any wiggle room to aim the very much. So be aware of this if you are installing a really deep 3" midbass.

I was trying to angle them upward and back a little but it just wouldn't fit.
The magnet is milimeters from the window support so it would hit it when I tried to angle it. Also, the door panel wouldn't fit over the mid.

Might be time to mod the door panel.
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:12 AM   #100
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Thanks for providing the feedback on the A/B comparison, JWerner! I've heard bucketloads of excuses for why people "think" that a door mounted driver sounds better than a panel mounted driver. I've yet to see someone who went the panel route, and then went the door mounted route, and stop halfway through to do the A/B comparison.
It's more effort, but well worth it. If you spent good money on speakers and simply bolted them to the panel, then you're really missing out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
The magnet is milimeters from the window support so it would hit it when I tried to angle it.
I've given up on trying to keep the L18RNX/p's from hitting the window rail. Mine is tightened securely against it, with a small sheet of rubber in between. I went this route after reading about driver decouplers on diyma.
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