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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-01-2007, 11:31 PM   #101
grafiksguy
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Originally Posted by reynaldo View Post
Need Help. I live in Fort Lee. I need to replace Front Control Army Bushing . Do I need to replace Comtrol Arm too? Can you post a DIY? thank
Rey
In answer to your first question, no, you don't necessarily have to replace the CAs. The bushings wear out much faster than the ball joints on the arms. But check the arms while your down there and if you've got over 60K on them you might want to think about that. As for DIY's do a search in the DIY forum, there are many to choose from.
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Old 12-03-2007, 12:42 AM   #102
neck
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Originally Posted by reynaldo View Post
Need Help. I live in Fort Lee. I need to replace Front Control Army Bushing . Do I need to replace Comtrol Arm too? Can you post a DIY? thank
Rey

you can just replace the control arm bushing but the stock bushings always have a little play.. if your suspension is clunking.. it might be something else.
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Old 12-03-2007, 03:10 PM   #103
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Control arm and bushings

doest the control arm come with bushings frrom pelican parts?
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Old 12-03-2007, 07:40 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by vPanya View Post
doest the control arm come with bushings frrom pelican parts?

There is extensive information on this if you take the time to read the threads. You can also go to the Pelican parts sites directly to answer your question above.
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Old 12-05-2007, 05:00 PM   #105
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In answer to your first question, no, you don't necessarily have to replace the CAs. The bushings wear out much faster than the ball joints on the arms. But check the arms while your down there and if you've got over 60K on them you might want to think about that. As for DIY's do a search in the DIY forum, there are many to choose from.
LOL your sig! Funny Shite Man!
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:38 PM   #106
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Hello all
Just ordered the CA pakage with powerflex bushings from BW.
Thanks for all the tips on this thread. I'm gonna do both sides next weekend and I'm excited to do it myself.

Before this I've only done brakes and oil changes on my cars
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:43 PM   #107
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Hello all
Just ordered the CA pakage with powerflex bushings from BW.
Thanks for all the tips on this thread. I'm gonna do both sides next weekend and I'm excited to do it myself.

Before this I've only done brakes and oil changes on my cars
Hey I just did mine. It wasn't that hard, I just had probably with some stuck ball joints but I doubt your situation will be the same. Other than that issue, it was pretty easy and straightfoward. Thats funny, where in Stamford are you?
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Old 12-09-2007, 09:46 PM   #108
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haha I work in Stamford CT. and I need to replace my control arms. Would you guys be willing to change them for me in the parking lot of my work?
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Old 12-09-2007, 11:33 PM   #109
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haha I work in Stamford CT. and I need to replace my control arms. Would you guys be willing to change them for me in the parking lot of my work?
lol.. it's the middle of winter dude
Call ICS and drop it off in the morning and pick it up after work if you don't have the time or place right now

Hopz, I'm in the Cove
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:54 AM   #110
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what is ICS?
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Old 12-10-2007, 01:08 AM   #111
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Imported cars of Stamford

try icsperformance.com

Last edited by Flying Kimura; 12-10-2007 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:44 PM   #112
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A co-worker of mine said they are crazy expensive.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:57 AM   #113
Flying Kimura
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Diy
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:04 PM   #114
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Thumbs Up

Took a snowday today and changed my control arms. It took me 4 hours taking my time, eating a sandwich, and going back to the dealer for more bolts. I only bought eight but I needed twelve.

After reading the "jacking points" thread, I didn't want to crush ANYTHING!!! So, I used two 3.5 ton floor jacks from work. Once the car was at the height I wanted, I put the jackstands in front of them with a 4' steel bar between them and lowered the car until the bar just touched the car. I locked the jacks and went to work.

my stearing wheel is a little off center but going for an alignment tomorrow.

to this thead
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:41 PM   #115
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I can't remove the xenon leveler from the right control arm. It's like welded on. Did anyone have the same problem?



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Old 02-10-2008, 02:02 AM   #116
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3. The most challenging part of this whole project is the inner ball joint nuts. The only way that you are going to be able to tighten the left side is by using extensions and a pivoting ratchet joint (weird angle on the nut) to attack the nut from up top (you can see the nut if you look down next to the dipstick). You have room underneath on the right side to work, but it is still tedious.
Can anyone post a picture of what this pivoting ratchet looks like that will allow me to access the driver's side inner ball joint nut from the top?

Also, how many extensions (length) am I going to need to get at this thing?

Thanks!
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:14 PM   #117
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Yuck. Lots of noise coming intermittently from the front end of the car, usually only after driving at highway speeds then slowing down in parking lots and stuff.

Dealership originally said it was Sway Bar links, but that didn't fix the problem. Just got a call saying it's the outer ball joint on the left front control arm. If you look back in this thread, I replaced my CA's in June of 2006, and did a write-up. I used the BW arms and powerflex bushings. Bushings are fine, and so is the right control arm.

Isn't two years way too early for a CA ball joint to be failing? Symptoms started a few months ago, actually, so it was more like 20 months. I would guess the car has "maybe" 18-20,000 miles during that time...
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:24 PM   #118
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Tackled this on the weekend. Replaced both arms and bushings with Meyle's - took about 4.5 hours. I will be taking it in for an alignment tomorrow. Everything went quite smoothly actually - thanks to all the useful comments in the forum, I was very well prepared.

A couple of points:

-definitely use the ball joint puller - took 3 minutes to remove the outer ball joints from the subframe (per side). The inner ball joints just required a couple of small taps with the hammer and they dislodged. No need to touch the pickle fork.

-if you can avoid removing the ABS speed sensors and still get at the inner ball joint nuts, do so. I broke one of the sensors - rotating it back in place as I was finishing up.

-Soak the ball joint (nuts) with WD40 or equivalent well in advance. The inner ball joint on the driver's side started to rotate as it was half way open - I retightened it, sprayed it down, waited and attacked it again, constantly opening and closing until it came out. I used the jack underneath the control arm and accessed it from the top with extensions and UJ joint, as was suggested.

Ended up changing my rotors and pads while it was at it.

Next DIY - fix the leaking power steering reservoir......
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:46 PM   #119
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I just did this over the weekend, + 1 day. I had a horrible, awful time getting the ball joints separated at the wheel; we actually broke the first pickle fork I bought (cheap China import that looked like poured aluminum), even took a blowtorch to the knuckle, it just wouldn't budge.

Eventually I tried using a Pitman arm puller per some suggestions, but it was too big to fit under the shocks. Luckily the kit included a pair of much more solid pickle forks, and after turning the steering wheel for some additional clearance, I knocked the arms off with a few good wind-ups. After finally getting the old CAs off (2 solid days of fiddling), it only took 30-40 minutes to stick the new Meyle + Powerflex bushings on.

I feel very silly, actually; I'd been attempting both prying and wedging actions with the fork since neither was directly specified. The pickle fork I'd bought had a very rounded handle tip which made it hard to hammer on, and didn't make its proper function very obvious. As soon as we saw the one in the loaner kit (with a wide, flat striking surface) it became obvious what to do.

So just to save anyone else failing to connect the dots, make sure you are hammering the fork in between the arm and knuckle like a nail, not simply setting it in and cranking it like a lever.
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Old 06-17-2008, 06:13 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by Chris3Duke View Post
Yuck. Lots of noise coming intermittently from the front end of the car, usually only after driving at highway speeds then slowing down in parking lots and stuff.

Dealership originally said it was Sway Bar links, but that didn't fix the problem. Just got a call saying it's the outer ball joint on the left front control arm. If you look back in this thread, I replaced my CA's in June of 2006, and did a write-up. I used the BW arms and powerflex bushings. Bushings are fine, and so is the right control arm.

Isn't two years way too early for a CA ball joint to be failing? Symptoms started a few months ago, actually, so it was more like 20 months. I would guess the car has "maybe" 18-20,000 miles during that time...
My CA outer ball joints only lasted a year and a half. Meyle sent me new CA's for free.
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