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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 06-17-2008, 09:55 PM   #121
alvocado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328iBMW View Post
My CA outer ball joints only lasted a year and a half. Meyle sent me new CA's for free.
Meyle is the way to go. From their US website: "The ball joints are the main component of wear on these arms and MEYLE has designed it so
the ball joints can be replaced at least twice in the life of the arm. As a matter of fact MEYLE Products
has gone so far to offer free replacement ball joints for the next 30 years. The ball joints will be supplied
free of charge but the labor to remove the arm and press out the out ball joint and press in new ones is
not included."
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:15 PM   #122
grafiksguy
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:16 PM   #123
grafiksguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reynaldo View Post
Need Help. I live in Fort Lee. I need to replace Front Control Army Bushing . Do I need to replace Comtrol Arm too? Can you post a DIY? thank
Rey
Below are two. First one's for the bushings only, second's for the arms. Do a search and you'll find others. BTW, you don't have to change the arms with the bushings, but depending on mileage and wear, it sometimes just makes sense.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=control+arms

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...32#post4442632
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:30 AM   #124
Chris3Duke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvocado View Post
Meyle is the way to go. From their US website: "The ball joints are the main component of wear on these arms and MEYLE has designed it so
the ball joints can be replaced at least twice in the life of the arm. As a matter of fact MEYLE Products
has gone so far to offer free replacement ball joints for the next 30 years. The ball joints will be supplied
free of charge but the labor to remove the arm and press out the out ball joint and press in new ones is
not included."
Hope I have Meyle's. I'm picking the car up from the dealership today, and will check. I haven't had anything done yet, because of the stupid high price they quoted me. If they're Meyles, I'll be in touch with them, then can do the labor myself. Will obviously have to pay someone for the press...
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:37 PM   #125
Nathan323i
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So, since replacing the CA's and bushings, the car is definitely a lot tighter but I'm experiencing some undesirable behavior:

-after the install but before the alignment, the steering wheel had a minor shake -shimmy/vibration - at around 100-120km/h (60-75mph... i'm from canada). Below this speed, the wheel was solid.
-after the alignment, the vibration is only slightly better though i'm experiencing a lot of steering wheel movement when I drove bumps - some have called this bump steer, though I don't think that's technically correct. The car will continue to track it's trajectory even after it hits the bumps - but the steering wheel 'shudders'. Not sure if i have explained this properly.

Prior to the CA/CAB swap with the Meyle's - the car was not behaving like this. I've checked the tie rods - they seem fine. The sabilizer links need to be changed though I can't imagine how worn links would create the above symptoms.

Any thoughts?
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:04 PM   #126
m3m3me
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This is just a shot about your shimmying, but could your new bushings be the 66mm and the CAs are the 60mm? I can imagine a less than ethical mechanic installing these two items together just because that was what they had available or had provided to them.
A second issue I experienced was after an infraction with a curb my front strut pinch bolt on the hub carrier loosened and allowed the strut to move about at speed and upon heavy/hard braking.
just trying to help. good luck!
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:33 PM   #127
Nathan323i
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Thanks for the response - It turned out the problem was a semi-seized caliper. Replaced it and the vibration problem is gone. The bumpsteer issue is still there...
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:24 AM   #128
racerock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0x View Post
...add whatever I've forgotten?

When I do this job again, I will also make sure I have:
-knee pads. seriously.
-ratcheting flat wrenches, like these "Gear Wrenches."

Anyway, if somebody really wants to write up a DIY and lives in NY/NJ/PA (or wants to fly me to Cali ) then PM me. I'd be happy to help.
Did not see where anyone noticed that with a 1/2 drive, long extension (two of them) swivel - you can take the driver side nut right off of the inner control arm nut. You can also put it right on, and actually use a torque wrench.

The passenger side - no dice. Used big open end wrench, but did find a position that allowed about 1/3 of a turn.
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:59 PM   #129
2nd3series
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We were able to put a block of wood on a jack and lift the engine an inch so we could get a Great Neck 1/2inch 18 inch long breaker bar to loosen the 21 mm nut on the control arm. Note, then we could tighten the new 21 mm nut w/ the 18th breaker bar ..
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Old 05-31-2009, 02:49 AM   #130
co3deron
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Well, Last week I finaly replaced my controle arms with Meyle HD version and also the Meyle HD bushings. I had them for two years in the garage, but never had the time to do this job. When I started with replacing all seems the go smooth, I started at the rightside with middle balljoint that went good, the nut came off and a few hits with a small sladgehammer and this balljoint was free. The outerballjoint that is connected to the fusee, was a PITA, the nut came off with not that much effort, but the balljiont it self didn't came off that easy. One hour off hitting this balljiot with the small sladgehammer and a picklefork did not help. The balljiont press that I had was to big and the other was to small, a friend had one that fitted the balljiont and with a few hits on the balljiont it came off. Getting the new Meyle CA and the bushing on was a 15 minute job. Then I started at the left side. First with the outerballjiont, this came off pretty easy, the nut as well as the balljiont itself. The middle balljiont was the most frustrating part off the entire job, the nut did not wanted to come off for about a 1/2 inch at the end and than it was stuck. There was no way to get this nut on or off. I tried for about 5 hours to crack the nut with a nut cracker, but because there was not that much space, it was a "drama". Finally I stut the engine and lowerd the subframe to get more space. Then I could cut throu the nut with a angle grinder, with the nut off the replacing off the CA and the bushing is no trouble. I hope not to do this again soon, but with new fresh nuts, it would not be that kind off trouble.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:09 PM   #131
ILLuSioNz X
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great thread guys.
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Check out my for sale threads: Misc. OEM E46 M3 Steering Wheel Parts | (2) H&R 2.5" 650lb/in coilover springs - $85
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:22 PM   #132
ZHPkiddd
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http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog.../FCB3036lg.jpg I absolutely adored these for the E36 and I'm having a set made up for the E46 just like it, just gotta find the right ball joint to wedge around that HEX shape. Nobody has anything quite like this. What do you guys think?
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