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Bavarian Soundwerks' Mobile Electronics Forum
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:16 PM   #201
arc330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hark
For someone who hasn't fully cut their vent yet - would you guys recommend making the tray cut lower, so the back of the W200 rests in the tray lower? That way wouldn't the screen be angled higher, so the top would be more flush?
You can cut a little bit lower but when you angle it more the screen hits the bezel.
i think from my own experience you cant make the w200 sit flushed pretty close but the top will still be sticking out a little.

also the lower you cut the closer your getting near the sensor
on the front cover.
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:19 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hark
For someone who hasn't fully cut their vent yet - would you guys recommend making the tray cut lower, so the back of the W200 rests in the tray lower? That way wouldn't the screen be angled higher, so the top would be more flush?
I think that major sticking point about cutting too low would be the AC piping in the back. Right now my bottom tray plastic is just about right on it - not sure how much lower I could get, it any. I did trim the front plate a couple of times in order to get it lower. I cut it lower then was in the DYI pictures - not much, but about a 1/4 inch lower. arc330 right, I almost forgot, the temp sensor has to plug in - I knew there was a reason I stopped cutting

IMO, if you lower the top too much (and we're talking very small changes here) you might be tilting it in such a way that the W200 might not open. Just a thought.

I'm really happy with mine - just need to match it to the bezel which ARRIVES TOMORROW.

Hark - different topic. The KCA-801B, how did you connect your BT? I am not looking at the Motorola IHF1000. Is the "Trigger-In" just connected to switched power?

Also updated my car in the "Garage" - deleted my old one and added the latest one

Last edited by fastbmw; 07-12-2006 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:25 PM   #203
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I'll try to take pics of mine later to show you.
even though i dont know how to post pics lol i'll see if i can.
the more you make the little top that sticks out the more it hits when the w200 opens and closes like (fastbmw) thats pretty much the best you can do.
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Old 07-12-2006, 05:22 PM   #204
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I cut the bottom of the double din and it seems that it's a perfect fit with the cage. It won't fit with the bottom on without forcing it through and bending the double din slightly. The way i have it right now (havn't bolted it yet either), but with the top of the W200 bracket sitting perfectly flush with the double din cage and the bottom angled so that it also sits perfectly flush with the double din cage. This gives the W200 a slight upward slant so that it's closer to matching the natural tilt of the dash. I havn't tried test fitting it yet, but when i cut my vents, i also went lower than the guidelines in the diy. I cut just above the slot for the temp. sensor and went all the way across and all the way back. There is room to put the metal casing lower in the vent...i was messing around with the positioning and it seems that it would be possible to angle it downward depending on how you fabricate the U - shaped piece.
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:49 PM   #205
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That makes sense - you can only lower it as far as the temp sensor, and that will have to do (unless you want to get really crazy and try and relocate it).

Here's what I'm shooting for (my bezel just arrived, BTW ):



So I guess what everyone is saying is cut the vent as low as you can first, install the W200 with cables and move it as far back as it will go, mark this spot on the black din frame, then bolt the W200 cage to the frame?
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:59 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbmw
Hark - different topic. The KCA-801B, how did you connect your BT? I am not looking at the Motorola IHF1000. Is the "Trigger-In" just connected to switched power?
My Parrot BT kit has a mute wire that goes negative/ground when active, so I split it off, with one wire going to the W200's phone interrupt wire (it's looking for negative trigger), and the other going to a relay to convert it to positive in order to trigger the 801B's trigger wire. The combination of the W200 receiving the phone interrupt signal along with the 801B getting it's trigger makes the music playing mute and switches the audio to the 801B/Parrot BT kit.

If your BT kit has a negative trigger, and you want my relay diagram, let me know. I got it off of the12volt.com, they had a section about using relays to convert polarity.
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:13 PM   #207
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hark, can it go back any further so that the top edge of the screen is flush with the opening of the bezel?

basically another 1/4" or so from where you have it?
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:23 PM   #208
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It definitely can, although the top is already flush with the bezel (the pic doesn't show this very well). The question is: can the vent tray support this angle... and how to attach the W200 to the din bracket with that angle.
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:37 PM   #209
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sweet - the photo just doesn't show it that well I guess. Seriously, a set of mdf brackets screwed down through the top of the stock carrier that utilize the screws on the side of the brackets will work well - you can bypass the factory cage that way.

That's how I did my double din:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...7&postcount=41
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:43 PM   #210
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Yeah, now that I see that it needs to be angled in order to get it flush with the bezel, I'm starting to think you're right about the MDF. Cutting the MDF to the right shape/angle and getting the screw lengths correct seems like it'll be a real pain though.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:20 PM   #211
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anyone here can host pics so i can show you how close i got to make it sit flushed i can email the pics to someone
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:26 PM   #212
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Quote:
So I guess what everyone is saying is cut the vent as low as you can first, install the W200 with cables and move it as far back as it will go, mark this spot on the black din frame, then bolt the W200 cage to the frame?
Hark - I'm with you all that way up to the marking and bolting. I'll should be at the point (with any luck) tomorrow when the bezel arrives. I think my vent is cut as low as I was comfortable with - I got all the cables out of the way of sliding the W200 inplace - and then made sure I was able to slide the W200 as far back as I could.

Tomorrow will tell....

Is your frame sitting up againt the radio frame? Tough to tell with the bezel on.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:29 PM   #213
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Arc330 - You could do what fastbmw did and create a "garage" (see link to left of your post for "view my garage"). It allows you to upload photos to the site, and from there you can put links to the uploaded photos in your posts (that's how I got fastbmw's photos embedded above).
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:40 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3onDubs
I cut just above the slot for the temp. sensor and went all the way across and all the way back.
Won't the vent doors/u-bracket arm hit the tray if you cut all the way across?
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:42 PM   #215
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Last edited by arc330; 07-12-2006 at 10:46 PM. Reason: more pics
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:46 PM   #216
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As much as I think that the use of the MDF is a work of art - I have to just wonder if the the W200 firmly inserted into its frame then inserted firmly into the radio frame and then having the bezel screwed in isn't enough. The back of the W200 is resting and supported in the newly made tray.

Does it really need more than that?

Hark: The diagram for the relay would be nice. Is it something that can be posted in your garage? Hope it's simple - this science project is already taxing my best abilities.

arc330: nice work.... Looks like it sits in there very well.

Last edited by fastbmw; 07-12-2006 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:50 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbmw
Is your frame sitting up againt the radio frame? Tough to tell with the bezel on.
Not sure I understand your question... I think we need to agree on some names for the pieces of this install Do you mean is the black plastic double-din frame sitting up against the metal W200 cage? Sort of... I put on the thin rectangular black plastic trim piece that came with the W200, since I didn't like seeing the cage through the gap between the W200 screen and the bezel.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:59 PM   #218
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Here's the relay diagram:

Terminal 85 is the BT kit mute wire, and terminal 87 is the 801B trigger wire. 86 and 30 are switched +12V. The standard automotive relay can be had from any auto parts store, or RadioShack.
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:03 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hark
gap between the W200 screen and the bezel.


Gap? Uh oh.

You're right about the names. I am calling the big black frame that is designed to hold the radio - the radio frame. Into that frame your slide the W200 metal cage. Into the cage you insert the W200.

I was just wondering if the W200 metal cage was flush with the large black plastic radio frame thingy before the bezel was installed.

Thanks for the diagram....

Last edited by fastbmw; 07-12-2006 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:07 PM   #220
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbmw
As much as I think that the use of the MDF is a work of art - I have to just wonder if the the W200 firmly inserted into its frame then inserted firmly into the radio frame and then having the bezel screwed in isn't enough. The back of the W200 is resting and supported in the newly made tray.

Does it really need more than that?

Hark: The diagram for the relay would be nice. Is it something that can be posted in your garage? Hope it's simple - this science project is already taxing my best abilities.

arc330: nice work.... Looks like it sits in there very well.
Thanks fastbmw but i'm still trying to see maybe i can still make it push a tiny bit back more just hard with all the wires.
sorry for the crappy pics i tried
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