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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-14-2008, 09:42 AM   #41
frogg320
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Originally Posted by croat View Post
vert, use the tool and return it. say you didn't need it ro something like that.
Better yet, don't do that. You don't think they can tell? Plus, be honest, for crying out loud. I hate how everyone's trying to scam everyone else.
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:26 PM   #42
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I realize it's been awhile since the last posting, but can someone please tell me how to pull that RTAB bracket down far enough to clear the sideskirt? I've already tried several times, but the connections to the shock absorber, lower arm, and upper arm seem to prevent this, and I am only able get it down far enough so that the bushing clears the subframe pocket which it sat in. I have a 2002 330i with Sportpackage. Is there some special trick to this?

I'm open to either way of removing the bushing: the crude sawzall method or buying/renting the special tool. But in either case, and judging by the pictures I've seen posted here and elsewhere you still need to pull the bushing down far enough to let the tool (special or sawzall) extend out below the sideskirt.

I read in the writeup http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-r...rmbrushing.php (cited by Vert in this thread) that releasing both left and right trailing arm bracekts at the same time will let you pull the bracketed end down to its lowest point, because the trailing arms are connected by a sway bar. Can anyone confirm this? Would like to know for sure before spending the time pulling off both sides, only to realize the clearance is still deficient, and I gotta put it all back together again.

And Vert, are you still renting out the tool? Let me know, and I'll PM you my info. Thanks a lot!
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:38 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patdosa View Post

I read in the writeup http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-r...rmbrushing.php (cited by Vert in this thread) that releasing both left and right trailing arm bracekts at the same time will let you pull the bracketed end down to its lowest point, because the trailing arms are connected by a sway bar.
I released both left and right and it dropped down enough to clear on each side without any issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by patdosa View Post
And Vert, are you still renting out the tool? Let me know, and I'll PM you my info. Thanks a lot!
Yes I can rent it out. Also remember that if you use the sawzall/drill to get the bushing out, you still need to get the bushing back in. The guy in unitedbimmer diy still used the tool to press it back in. It is definitely possible without the tool, but you should think about this before you destroy your current bushing.

Last edited by vert; 05-20-2008 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:51 PM   #44
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Thanks Vert for the quick reply. That's reassuring that the bushing can and will drop lower.

Regarding installation of the new bushing, I purchased the Powerflex urethane bushings which are supposed to go in by hand without a special tool or press. So hopefully no problems there.

Thanks, and I'll PM you right now.
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Old 05-24-2008, 11:22 AM   #45
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how did the powerflex workout? Who did you get the powerflex from?
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Old 05-28-2008, 07:40 PM   #46
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The new powerflex RTAB worked out really well. car feels tight all around.

Regarding the removal process, I ended up doing the poor man's method and jigsawed the old stock RTAB. Actually it went a lot easier and faster than I first thought. Once I dropped the brackets from both sides simultaneously, the bushings cleared well below the sideskirts. Actually, just as a precaution, I also removed my sideskirts which gave me an addition couple inches of clearance.

So I just drilled the rubber all around the tubular center. Then just jigsawed it all the way around until the tubular center came out. Now here's how I got the metal sleeve out. I scored the metal sleeve at two places about 1 cm apart using a small hacksaw. Then just pried out that 1cm section with a few taps, and VOILA!, the metal sleeve came apart by itself. That's when I realized that the metal sleeve is not a solid cylinder all the way around; at the 12 o'clock location there is a groove/line/score on the sleeve that just gave way when I removed the 1 cm section. pretty simple.

installation of the powerflex RTAB was the easiest part. just lubed it up and pressed it in by hand. finished.

And even though I didn't go withe Vert's tool, which probably would have made removal a breeze, I'd say the removal is certainly doable.
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Old 05-28-2008, 07:42 PM   #47
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by the way I got the powerflex RTAB from Bimmerworld, together with the Meyle FCA and bushings (again powerflex there too).
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Old 06-11-2008, 01:37 PM   #48
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Anybody knows if a bad RTAB will cause clunking on places where the road is bad? I have this annoying clunking but can't find it.
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:24 PM   #49
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Anybody knows if a bad RTAB will cause clunking on places where the road is bad? I have this annoying clunking but can't find it.
It's probably your diff bushings. Search "rear end clunk".
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Old 06-12-2008, 12:28 AM   #50
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I have a tool that is for rent

My bushing was bad after 50K
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Last edited by Optio; 06-12-2008 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:41 AM   #51
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I had a clunking on bad roads. I got under the car as best I could and had someone else bounce it a little. I could put my hand on the suspension points and find the clunking. I found the right rear shock bolt a little loose. I tightened it up and the clunking is gone. It really surprised me. All the talk about RTAB wear had me convinced that was the problem.

Meanwhile I have already ordered the Power Flex RTAB so I'll put them in at a later date. I'm coming up on 100k so I might do the other rear bushings and subframe while I'm in there.

Anybody know if the RTAB tool will work on the control arm bushings or subframe bushings also? I think they are probably a different size, requiring a different size tool, but I haven't actually checked it out yet.
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Old 06-28-2008, 12:43 AM   #52
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I just installed some UUC RTABs. The install was actually VERY easy. The link above is very similar for E46s. You'll just need to unplug the 1 wire on the drivers side (ABS sensor???) and 2 on the other side (brake pad sensor and ABS sensor???).

With the UUC RTABs, you don't need the tool to reinstall the bushing. Its 3 parts, 2 halves and a metal sleeve. Just grease it up real good. The tool makes removing the OEM bushing very simple.

The entire job took me about 1.5 hours total. Now to go get an alignment.
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Old 06-28-2008, 04:12 PM   #53
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I just installed some UUC RTABs. The install was actually VERY easy. The link above is very similar for E46s. You'll just need to unplug the 1 wire on the drivers side (ABS sensor???) and 2 on the other side (brake pad sensor and ABS sensor???).

With the UUC RTABs, you don't need the tool to reinstall the bushing. Its 3 parts, 2 halves and a metal sleeve. Just grease it up real good. The tool makes removing the OEM bushing very simple.

The entire job took me about 1.5 hours total. Now to go get an alignment.
I personally did not like the way UUC RTAB's handled on the street and that is why I went with the M3 upgrade RTAB's from www.autohausaz.com. With the M3 RTAB's the car feels exactly how I wanted it to feel for the day to day spirited driving. That's just a personal preference and I am sure there are people who like their UUC bushings. I am not trying to turn this into a "which bushing is better" discussion at all, just sharing my experience. With the M3 bushing the tool is needed since the bushings need to be pressed in to the trailing arm. The tool makes that process a breeze.
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:47 PM   #54
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I personally did not like the way UUC RTAB's handled on the street and that is why I went with the M3 upgrade RTAB's from www.autohausaz.com. With the M3 RTAB's the car feels exactly how I wanted it to feel for the day to day spirited driving. That's just a personal preference and I am sure there are people who like their UUC bushings. I am not trying to turn this into a "which bushing is better" discussion at all, just sharing my experience. With the M3 bushing the tool is needed since the bushings need to be pressed in to the trailing arm. The tool makes that process a breeze.
Yeah, the UUC bushing really tightened the rear up. I chose the UUC bushings because I wanted to never bother with changing the RTABs again.

So far, I have the UUC RTAB, Meyle shock mounts, TMS adj rear control arms, and Bilstein PSS and my ride is still pretty good.

The tool does make removal/install SUPER easy.

Last edited by bigjae1976; 06-28-2008 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 06-28-2008, 10:32 PM   #55
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Yeah, the UUC bushing really tightened the rear up. I chose the UUC bushings because I wanted to never bother with changing the RTABs again.

So far, I have the UUC RTAB, Meyle shock mounts, TMS adj rear control arms, and Bilstein PSS and my ride is still pretty good.

The tool does make removal/install SUPER easy.
I am glad you found the tool useful. The right tool for the job truly makes working on your car enjoyable. When you ship it back to me please remember to disassemble it and wrap up the threaded rod real good so the threads are not damaged.
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:35 PM   #56
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I recommend the M3 factory bushing, I used the new flangeless (with a split outer core) type which is the latest iteration from BMW. This has a very solid feel and the E46 is planted in the corners without any harshness.
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Old 06-29-2008, 09:07 PM   #57
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I am glad you found the tool useful. The right tool for the job truly makes working on your car enjoyable. When you ship it back to me please remember to disassemble it and wrap up the threaded rod real good so the threads are not damaged.
I'll be sending it back Monday. I separated the rod from the rest of the tool.
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Old 06-30-2008, 11:05 AM   #58
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is Vert loaning the tool out?? PM me
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Old 06-30-2008, 11:14 AM   #59
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is Vert loaning the tool out?? PM me
Yes, I can rent it out if interested. Email me arthur91 at hotmail dot com.
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:49 PM   #60
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I have a tool that is for rent

My bushing was bad after 50K
I also rent out the RTAB tool.......
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