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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-09-2006, 03:27 PM   #41
crownedballer
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canuck are you running into any other problems??

e36 graduate im glad you enjoy your car more....the colors of the wires kind of threw me off also because they werent the same as sound of speed posted them but he told me they might be different so big ups to him =] without him id still be jerking wait that didnt sound right LOL ....
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:32 PM   #42
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ok i unpluged it with the 2 wires i said connected togehter in the previous post and it still has a delay in dropping the rpm's..???
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:01 PM   #43
The Jiveman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundOfSpeed View Post
The Jiveman, you can test it out. remove the panels under the steering wheel, but don't touch the wires. Turn on the car, and unplug the harness to the left of the clutch pedal and go drive it, see if it's any smoother. If it is, just go with the DIY and you'll be very happy.
I did this today... I started the car with the harness plugged in, then I unplugged it with the engine running, and drove away for a little test (I need to mention that no wires were actually connected together at this point, the harness was just unplugged and left hanging in its original form).

However, I don't think I noticed any improvement. Maybe my RPM's weren't that prolematic to begin with??? Or maybe, the harness can't just be unplugged (meaning that the wires would have to be shorted to really test this out???)

I was reading the original post from this thread, and looked at the link that shows the specific dates and models of cars affected by this issue. My car is a 2000 323i, so maybe it doesn't fall into the list of affected ones??? Anybody else have a 2000 323 or 328 and has done this DIY (with positive results)?

By the way, just as an additional FYI... Here's a picture of what my wiring harness looks like (and where it's located). The colors of wires might be hard to see, but they are: blue, brown, and white/purple...

So, anyways... I put the wiring harness back in. I also installed a slightly shortened "lowes clutch stop" today, so that will keep me happy for a while!
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:23 PM   #44
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if u read mine above yours i didnt notice a difference thats why im askin if i did it wrong...
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:37 PM   #45
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I just did this, and I think there might be a slight improvement but I wouldnt be at all surprised if it was just my imagination. Oh well, Ill let my imagination have the best of me. Thanks sound of speed this was a fun mod for the weekend
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Old 09-09-2006, 09:16 PM   #46
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I think you will notice more when heal and toe shifting, when the rpms need to go up as soon as you hit the gas. You wont have a delay anymore so your downshifts (heal and toe shifts) should be smoother. In normal driving i felt almost nothing, but get me in the twisties and i turn into Michael Schumacher.
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:31 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by E36graduate View Post
Ever since I bought this car (1999 328i 5sp) I've been aggrivated by the clutch. I've been driving this car for 1 year and put about 35K miles on it (about 115K now).

Today, i followed this DIY and it WORKS!

What pissed me off before is now cured! Before.....I would have to let off on the gas a split second before pushing in the clutch, otherwise you would get a little reverse clutch slip (if thats what you call it). YOu would have to push in the clutch fast and HARD to prevent the rpm's from going up a little and hanging there for what seemed like forever.

Now, shift is fun and car is alive again. What a difference....Crowndballer...YOU ARE MY HERO !

btw...my 1999 (10/1998) E46 had the exact color wires. I just cut the blue and purple and wrapped them together and used electrical tape to insulate. Stuck the wires up where they wouldnt get in the way of anything else....

Sigh... I get no credit for making the DIY


But glad you guys are enjoying the mod, I personally love it.
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Old 09-10-2006, 04:12 AM   #48
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Hmmm? In my '99 328i I just did the clutch stop mod, but did another mod that was mentioned here to get the car to start.

It's a little bit of a pain, but maybe no more daunting than rewiring your car!


I bolted some plastic plumbing washers onto the square plate on the upper right side of clutch pedal...the 'plate' that strikes the plunger. Clutch stop in, then measure distance between plate and plunger, drill hole, screw through 3 washers, with metal washers, nut, and locktite. Another member did this and his is still holding up...hopefully mine will too, but it's mechanical and not an electronic fix...no danger of car starting in gear, no worrys about cruise control, and no worrys about messing up finickly electronics (my '92 325i was notorious for electrical gremlins that'd come and go!

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Old 09-10-2006, 04:27 AM   #49
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Oops, different clutch mod, sorry folks.

Sounds like this one is maybe an alternative to the CDV delete...is that correct?

D
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Old 09-10-2006, 05:46 AM   #50
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Sounds good 'SoundofSpeed' and guys. I will try this out tomorrow after football. Question; you thought of this after talking to the dealership and them wanting to put in a different switch? If this is correct, do you know when this new switch made it's way into the E46s? Do you think any of the later production 323/328 might have gotten it?

One last thing guys who have done it. Could you post your model and month/yr of manufacture (maybe country)and if it worked or not for you? Maybe will can lock down what production date models it affect if not all? For anyone unaware, this would be posted on the driver's side door jam.(If that's OK to the original thread poster? or would you like another thread for this?) There seems a possible issue on the one Canadian E46 who tried it, so it might be a BMW-USA specific programming/saftey reason.
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Old 09-10-2006, 08:52 AM   #51
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First, kudos to 'soundofspeed' for this DIY. This one hits me in tight maneuvering situations - and revving happens at the wrong time.

Here's a variation that I think will accomplish his work - but preserve the clutch-starter interlock safety feature - and keep the cabling neater. Effectively, the mod disconnects the 'offending' brown wire by leaving the connectors hanging - and hot wiring the 'starter interlock' brown and power cables together.

Would an effective alternative be to cut (or remove from the connector) the 'offending' brown wire, and then re-connect the two halves of the connector? Then, when you depress the clutch - it would close the circuit between the 'starter interlock' brown and power cables to enable starting? It also has the added advantage of keeping cables neatly connected.

If so, this mod becomes even easier...
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Old 09-10-2006, 12:56 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Alex323Ci View Post
Sounds good 'SoundofSpeed' and guys. I will try this out tomorrow after football. Question; you thought of this after talking to the dealership and them wanting to put in a different switch? If this is correct, do you know when this new switch made it's way into the E46s? Do you think any of the later production 323/328 might have gotten it?

One last thing guys who have done it. Could you post your model and month/yr of manufacture (maybe country)and if it worked or not for you? Maybe will can lock down what production date models it affect if not all? For anyone unaware, this would be posted on the driver's side door jam.(If that's OK to the original thread poster? or would you like another thread for this?) There seems a possible issue on the one Canadian E46 who tried it, so it might be a BMW-USA specific programming/saftey reason.
I linked the customer complaint article in the first post of this thread, it should answer your questions.
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:16 PM   #53
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I linked the customer complaint article in the first post of this thread, it should answer your questions.
Thanks, I had read it. But I must be understanding it wrong because you said all M52 TU engines have it. But the bulletin says:

" E46 - 323i and 328i with M52 TU engine and manual trans. produced 4/98 - 3/99"
And then it goes on to say:

"2. Some vehicles may have a two wire clutch switch installed instead of the three wire hall switch.
Body Model Engine 2 Wire Switch ___ 3 Wire Switch
E46 323i M52TU 4/98 - 9/98 ___ 9/98 - present
E46 328i M52TU 4/98 - 9/98 ___ 9/98 - present"

I'm not sure why they show this #2, maybe for just regular replacement info? But this seems to me like no 2000 323/328 would be affected? And maybe only 1/2 of the '99 E46s??
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Old 09-10-2006, 08:29 PM   #54
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Yeah.....so.....ummm the wires i grounded out were the wrong ones and i popped fuse 14. I guess i didnt do it right. So its not the wire harness coming off the clutch sensor? Because thats the one i used and thought it was right but nothing.
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Old 09-10-2006, 09:25 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Alex323Ci View Post
Thanks, I had read it. But I must be understanding it wrong because you said all M52 TU engines have it. But the bulletin says:

" E46 - 323i and 328i with M52 TU engine and manual trans. produced 4/98 - 3/99"
And then it goes on to say:

"2. Some vehicles may have a two wire clutch switch installed instead of the three wire hall switch.
Body Model Engine 2 Wire Switch ___ 3 Wire Switch
E46 323i M52TU 4/98 - 9/98 ___ 9/98 - present
E46 328i M52TU 4/98 - 9/98 ___ 9/98 - present"

I'm not sure why they show this #2, maybe for just regular replacement info? But this seems to me like no 2000 323/328 would be affected? And maybe only 1/2 of the '99 E46s??

Production aren't the same as model years.

Cars produced in early 99 are 2000 model years.

The production date will be on your door jam sticker probably.
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:02 PM   #56
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Production aren't the same as model years.

Cars produced in early 99 are 2000 model years.

The production date will be on your door jam sticker probably.
No, cars produced in ealry 99 would be 1999 models.
I had posted where the production date was located in my earlier post. I'm pretty sure the BMW cut-off date for model year is September. So 9/99 would be around the start of the 2000 years. 10/99, 11/99, and 12/99 are certainly 2000 yr model cars. Mine is a 2000 323Ci and production date of 3/2000. So you can see my concern/misunderstanding the statement that this affects all M52 TU E46s.
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:13 AM   #57
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My guess is there is also a link to the mechanical throttle over the drive-by-wire. This may affect only the mechanical throttle cars (or may just be coincidence).

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Old 09-12-2006, 11:03 AM   #58
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Norry, but I'm an absolue electronical n00b. Can someone guide me to which cables I exactly have to use? I made 2 small screens if that helps:


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Old 09-12-2006, 04:25 PM   #59
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This is not my thread, but I believe that NO 2000 models are affected. The poster of this thread seems to think that early production 1999 models are 2000 year cars, which is incorrect. I asked questions and no reply.
I may certainly be wrong, but I asked if the bulletin that says production:
E46 - 323i and 328i with M52 TU engine and manual trans. produced 4/98 - 3/99 are the only ones affected or are there others added.
If this is true then there are NO 2000 years and only half the 1999s production models to be able to do this. Can anyone confirm or deny for the rest of us?
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Old 09-12-2006, 04:38 PM   #60
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awesome mod, just finished it in my 323ci, very impressed
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