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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-28-2011, 06:15 AM   #101
yoshii
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hillsboro, OR
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My Ride: 323i 2k
Great DIY man I will attempt this soon!
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:08 PM   #102
yoshii
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**Update** I've been reading this DIY for a couple days now and finally had some time to try it! and it worked....sorta so let me explain what happened I took off the panel started the car and didn't find the yelllow connector but a purple one(will post pics soon) disconnected it major difference! but as I was turning I stalled out and car wouldn't turn on( keep in mind I only unplugged the connector) so I plugged it back in and to my amazement the "settings" had stayed put RPMs drop as soon as I punch in the clutch! Any theories????
Quote:
Originally Posted by 323i99
Well, as it turns out this is still a problem. Actually much worse, now I am experiencing a longer "hold" on the RPM's before dropping. This happens in every gear and makes driving this car almost impossible. This is ridiculous.

I yanked the wire connector out and reconnected the clutch switch (restored to factory configuration). And the car immediately acted like a normal car to drive.

I'm confused. At first this delay only happened when my car was hot so I was routed to this topic and did the mod and it corrected the problem for about a week, then progressively it started to come back little by little. Meaning the car will hold RPM's briefly and only in 1-2 shifts, then it would hold longer, then longer and during all shifts until last night I could barely drive the car. I got home and grabbed a flashlight and philips to yank out the panel and I reversed the mod. Now my car is operating normally in all conditions, even when hot. But originally, since I got the car the delay always happened when hot...

What is going on? How come for one week with the mod it was normal then failed and now so far one day without the mod it is normal?
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:12 PM   #103
yoshii
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bump bump!
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:50 PM   #104
bekurt
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Nice write up ghery beary.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:52 PM   #105
andrebrito88
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Ok i'm gonna give 3 cents on the thread.

After like 3 hours of research and tests i have my conclusions (after check and research on wds and make some experiences).

So i found that there is 2 kind of harness.

So:

VIOLET/YELLOW have the same function on both harness. (PIN 3)
BLUE/BROWN have the same function on both harness. (PIN 2)
BROWN/BLACK have the same function on both harness. (PIN 1)

You can only have one of the harnesses respectly VIOLET/BLUE/BROWN or YELLOW/BROWN/BLACK, this are the colors to the E46 so the guy on this thread have an strange one VIOLET/BLACK/BROWN dont know why maybe an E39 idk, i read that there is some kind on 2wire(problematic one) to 3wire switch retrofit so the strange colors on the wiring of this guy can be that too, because they need to use some old cables of the 2wire switch and add a few new ones to install the 3wire switch.

Cables funtion explanation:

-Violet/Yellow its 12v that comes fron the fuse F9 via brake switch(for cruise control drop if grounded, yes grounding the brake switch and the clutch switch its the same eletric line).
-Blue/Brown goes into the DME, if you press the clutch, the clutch switch will open and the 12V from above goes to the DME.
-Brown/Black its ground.

This switch its an simple relay, clutch depressed=circuit closed so the 12V goes anywhere and DME its grounded, clutch pressed=circuit open so 12V goes to DME (cruise disables) and dme retard ignition timings to hold the rpm.

Another correction, the switch doesn't change the cams as i already read on the thread, it retards the ignition, if you check the INPA values with the engine running you will found that the values goes negative on Ignition angle once you press the clutch and the rpm goes up a little bit, on mid/high rpm it holds there for an while because of the retart ignition timings, i think this is related to emissions(probably to keep the cats and lambdas hot in desacelaration) or whatever simple dont understand the germans LOL.

About the IDK i'm not sure, but to me it makes more sense the jerk comming from there(because of much changes in fraction of an sec that you press the clutch).

I tried :
-2(DME) to 3(12V) (no cruise and no tyre spin on powershift) and tried -2(DME) to 1(Ground) (i have cruise but, if you press the clutch when the cruise its giving throtle its revs like crazy then goes down after an sec or two, and i found an crazy power on powershift (i never seen my car spining on 3rd :O)

So making the things like this guy did 3(12v) to 2(dme), i cant even activate the cruise control, because ''suposely'' the clutch its pressed and DME disable the cruise instantly via throtle body control (mecanic cruise control).

Making 2 to 1 the cruise goes crazy and i have lots of power when change gear, seems like an anti-lag on turbo cars.

SOLUTION found be me that i think someone already talk about(to keep the crank with press clutch funtion), disconect the DME cable (pin 2) or cut it or if you prefer find another ground cable being there,strip it and connect it there, so you keep with the cruise control normal, if press the clutch it disable and no crazy revs and i keep the power of the depressed clutch(normal ignition maps) between the gears

I hope that this helps someone with the same problem that me.

PS: i have the ''start with pressed clutch function'' disabled on the module, by the way when i activate it, the car simple dont run with the normal things, so i found that there are cars with 1 clutch switch(to control ignition,idk and cruise drop) and 2 clutch switch(1 for the same already explained and other 1 to ''start clutch pressed function).
In my case i have just one thats why the car doesnt run if i activate that option on the module, the DME doesnt detect any signal of the switch because its not there.

Best regards, André Brito

Last edited by andrebrito88; 03-03-2016 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:22 AM   #106
andrebrito88
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After the conclusion i found another way to avoid the overrev of the cruise when you press the clutch, you can link the remaining blue cable on the slot of the clutch switch to the cable that goes into the DME on the brake switch(blue too). (not sure if it activate the brake lights when you press the clutch i didn't tried yet).

Another thing that i found is: cutting the blue and let cutted its an no way, it really need to be grounded, so i ground it directly to the brown and use dual eletric slot(i dunno the name) to keep the brown connected to the switch(the 12v still connected have to go somewhere i think) .(You can simple strip the brown and connect the blue there).

So on simple way and resuming...the blue need to be cuted...the brown need to be striped to put the blue...the violet leave it intact...
The cutted part that goes into DME on the blue cable as i said ground it to brown...the other part that remains on the slot i'm gonna connect to the blue in the brake switch(still dont test it).

With all this the DME still dont know where the clutch is, and the cruise works (with overrev if you press the clutch, connecting to the brake blue cable probably will disable the cruise in the soft way because the DME read an pseudo-brake-touch (clutch ) )

To those ones that want the clutch always on its not god at all...you have soft gear changes, but the on con you are retarding the IDK and ignition all the time so you dont have 100% power and you are wasting fuel because of the retarded timings making the engine uneficient.

You guys can put this like me having all the power of the engine, not wasting fuel, getting crazy shift on inspired moments and still shift soft (leave the acelerator, engage the gear and then acelerate again and you simulate the switch).

Last edited by andrebrito88; 03-04-2016 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:57 AM   #107
andrebrito88
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Ok not possible to send the signal into brake lights without activate the brake lights.

Because there is 1 cable going to DME that says if the lights are good (checklight systems) and another one going into LSZ that activate the brake lights.

I have to live with the overrev of the cruise LOL

Last edited by andrebrito88; 03-04-2016 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:59 PM   #108
BKMrSteel
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I always thought the car had a valve on the clutch line, and mine had been removed before I came to own it (as a E36 friend had lead me to believe). I will have to try this very soon (in a less permanent, better looking way). I have been driven mad by this from the day I got my car. I like to shift quickly often, and the engine always feel like it hangs way to long, and I'm dragging it down on quick shifts. I had thought this was just because of such a heavy flywheel and what not.
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