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Old 10-26-2010, 12:45 AM   #41
mickey513
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So the kit and hydraulic tensioner can be have for less then $100 at autohaus AZ?

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ner%20Assembly

I under it will need new belts but is anything else missing for the retrofit? Need to change my belts soon...
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:52 PM   #42
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Man, I just finished changing the belt tensioner for the new hydraulic type. It wasn't that hard but it was expensive, $175 plus shipping. Local dealer wanted $250. Now I'm thinking I should have instead used a OEM mechanical (Ina) tensioner and save $150. Darn.

I'm one of those who insist on only using BMW branded parts, however something like this is worth considering.

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Old 10-26-2010, 10:31 PM   #43
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Sorry for my ignorance, but is this the part that I recall hearing about awhile back that if it fails causes a catastrophic failure of the cooling system?

I'm getting together everything needed to do my 100k maintenance, not sure if this is what is needed or not. AFAIK mine is original at 93,000 miles...
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:02 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey513 View Post
So the kit and hydraulic tensioner can be have for less then $100 at autohaus AZ?

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ner%20Assembly

I under it will need new belts but is anything else missing for the retrofit? Need to change my belts soon...
I would like to know this as well. I am purchasing the the items and wonder if anyone who has purchased the the tensioner and kit from autohas can confirm it includes everything needed for the conversion.
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:32 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by FalconGuy View Post
my hyd failed twice in 2 years, mech was good for 3. I would like a reverse DIY. I have a new mech sitting waiting for the time to do it...


Some improvement, 250 versus 29 bucks with a drop in reliabilty. do yourself a favor just like waterpumps never buy OEM
I purchased the wrong tensioner (mechanical) as I have hydrolic and I'm thinking about doing a reverse swap as well as I'm too lazy to return the mechanical tensioner. I inspected the tensioner and it looks like the only place where this could fail is the pulley so it doesn't bother me one bit that I'm going to an supposedly inferior design. So, do I need new bolts to install the mechanical tensioner?

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Old 10-01-2011, 08:25 PM   #46
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Since the mechanical tensioner uses 2 bolts, and the hydraulic uses 3, would you assume that makes it stronger and less likely to fail or break off like the mechanical seems to? I say this because our 325 just sheared both bolts off. I am leaning to replacing with the hydraulic type. Has anyone with the hydraulic type had the bolts break?
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:07 PM   #47
Andrew.Guajardo
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No but i am also thinking of switching mine to a mechanical one as the hydraulic tensioner can no longer give room for me to install a new belt.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:14 AM   #48
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Thread revival. Changed my 11-year old mechanical tensioner with the hydraulic version. To be clear, 11 year old tensioner/body with 2 year old pulley, as I have been changing them every 2nd belt change.

I got the updated version from pelican parts along with the rest of the small bits and pieces required to make the conversion. The engine does sound and feel smoother, other than that, haven't noticed any difference. No issues with the belt, even with the additional bracket from ESS with 2 extra idler pullies
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:57 PM   #49
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Hi Paris,

I plan to retrofit hydraulic tensioner to my car next week.

Did you also install the deflection-idler pulley in your new setup?
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:38 AM   #50
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No, just the tensioner, as I do not have a deflection pulley installed.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:57 PM   #51
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Hi,

Thank you for your answer

Do you have a 90A Valeo Alternator on your car?

I have this setup (90A Valeo) on my car with no deflection pulley as well.

Maybe deflection pulley is only with 120A alternators?

Last edited by Quenotte; 07-14-2013 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:45 AM   #52
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I have no idea to be honest, with the s/c setup it's a bit different as I have an additional bracket with 2 pullies that are used to guide the belt around the s/c pulley. I can't remember if I ever had a deflection pulley as factory, although realoem does list one for my engine
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:57 AM   #53
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Thank you Paris

I should receive hydraulic tensioner retrofit parts this week
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:39 PM   #54
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I just updated my mechanical tensioner with the new hydraulic one.

I tighten tensioner bolts to 21Nm.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:47 AM   #55
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quenotte View Post
I just updated my mechanical tensioner with the new hydraulic one.

I tighten tensioner bolts to 21Nm.
Hi, just wanted to check, did you install the idler/deflection pulley?

I'm starting to get sick of the little squeal of the mechanical tensioner, after only 10k miles! I'm sure its fine, but i sometimes feel its a ticking time bomb! Hence gonna convert to hydraulic, and my car never had idler/deflection pulley from factory.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:41 AM   #56
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Hey, Realoem has the part listed as discontinued would anyone by chance know where else to find the part?
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Old 05-21-2014, 04:07 AM   #57
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Stupid question did my research sorry to post here

Last edited by Runaway_510; 05-21-2014 at 04:11 AM.
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Old 11-15-2017, 08:53 PM   #58
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The Mechanical tensioners are crap. The old mechanical ones are usually the culprit when you hear a sound in the engine. Get the hydraulic. Mine made noises when it was cold. But after a while it made the noise regardless of cold or hot. It just made a squealing sound. Now no noise at all after the install. The tensioner cost me $250.00
I don't understand; both hydraulic and mechanical tensioner used the same pulley bearings so why one has the noise issue?
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Old 11-16-2017, 03:18 PM   #59
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The reason a more expensive hydraulic tensioner a better product than mechanical unit, even though both might have the same pulley bearing, is that the hydraulic unit applies a smaller force on the belt and the bearing. With less radial force constantly on the bearing and so longer bearing life. It is like using an eighteen wheeler truck shock absorber on an E46 car with a much weaker spring, and one cannot push the suspension up/down because the truck shock absorber has very large damping constant. Damper does not apply constant force on the bearing as a strong spring in the mechanical tensioner.
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Old 12-02-2017, 02:38 AM   #60
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A little off topic but my hydraulic tensioner broke during a belt replacement and resulted in a half screw in one of the mounting points for the tensioner. Found out that you could replace it with a mechanical tensioner in other mounting points (no need to drill out the broken off screw). Problem solved relatively cheap, although the product may be inferior but it worked a 1,5 years ago and still does.
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