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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-09-2006, 09:23 PM   #1
Forknmybut
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Power steering pump questions

My power steering pump cracked at the "L" valve that the hose from the reservoir connects to. I'm still not sure why they use plastic for that part but anyways... I was looking for a replacement and found this part 32416760036 which seems to be for 330i's within a certain year range. Realoem says my car should use this part 32416760034... They are both Luk LF-20. I was wondering if there was a significant difference between the two? Hope someone has experience with this. If not I guess i'm force to buy the 32416760034 one which is over $100 more than the other on pelican parts...
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Old 12-05-2006, 09:01 AM   #2
tony325ci_51
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Luk-lf20

Quote:
Originally Posted by Forknmybut View Post
My power steering pump cracked at the "L" valve that the hose from the reservoir connects to. I'm still not sure why they use plastic for that part but anyways... I was looking for a replacement and found this part 32416760036 which seems to be for 330i's within a certain year range. Realoem says my car should use this part 32416760034... They are both Luk LF-20. I was wondering if there was a significant difference between the two? Hope someone has experience with this. If not I guess i'm force to buy the 32416760034 one which is over $100 more than the other on pelican parts...
I'd be interested to hear how you got on. I have a similar situation with my 325Ci. I have a (failed) 32416760036 pump I'm considering replacing with a later 32416760034 pump I've found used/cheap (rare as rocking horse sh*t as my techie tells me as they're, surprise surprise, prone to fail).

There are gaps in the following info but this is what I've learnt: Realoem says Pre 9/01 uses 32416760036, post 9/02 uses 32416760034 (110lb), I guess a later design of Luk-LF20. I could find no reference to dates in between. I think early e46 models use Luk-LF30 (120lb).
I don't know the pressure rating on 32416760036 (yet, I may find out if the sticker's intact when it's removed).
I've been told they're interchangeable, all pipes and brackets are the same.

Bavarian Autosport (32416760036@$350+$50, refundable when old unit exchanged) have a nice high-res pic of an 32416760036 (32416760034 looks identical) on their website:
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp - browse to "suspension & steering" > "front axle" > "steering components".

I suspect 6760034 may be lower pressure than 6760036, see here for why:
http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/3-s...ump#post152179

My one concern is that later models that use the 6760034 pump, also seem to have a different part number (although again identical looking) steering rack. I've heard at one point this was changed to sharpen steering on later models having 2.9 turns as opposed to 3.2 turns lock to lock. I'm hoping that's all there was to it and the only effect of fitting the later pump will be a little less assistance.

Incidentally for those of you lucky enough not to have the experience, driving with a failed ps pump is possible, but parking is a different experience altogether and not for the puny!
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Old 12-11-2006, 10:15 AM   #3
tony325ci_51
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Update!

I had a (failed) 32416760036 (pre 9/01) pump, replaced with a later 32416760034 (post 9/02) pump, both LF-20, both pressure 110, looks and all fittings are identical.
Works fine, stering feels lighter than before, but there's no more groaning noise from PS pump so that could just be because it's a newer pump.

Upon removal of pump I found my old shaft could be pulled right out. I'll open it up out of curiousity and see what the impeller looks like sometime.
Maybe even make enquiries as to what it needs for reconditioning.

Bavarian Autosport (32416760036@$350+$50, refundable when old unit exchanged) have a nice high-res pic of an 32416760036 (32416760034 looks identical) on their website:
http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp - browse to "suspension & steering" > "front axle" > "steering components".

The job took just under an hour by my BMW independent motorsport specialist. I hope I haven't missed anything, but from memory and watching closely the job went like this:

Removed air filter plastic extension from front (plastic rivets), removed fan shroud, (small torx screw top left, plastic rivet top right) undo connectors and pull fan upwards and out. The expanding plastic rivets can be re-used if removed with care, by grasping the centre pin and wiggling the rivet out with judicious use of long-nosed pliers. Now you can see the belts, pulleys an tensioners (which have black plastic covers in the middle).

(Note route of belts if you may be unsure or are unfamiliar with them).
Prise black plastic centre covers from 2x belt tensioners (using a fairly thin screwdriver), use torx bit in strong socket wrench bar (turn centre torx silver socket you've revealed under the plastic covers you removed clockwise and entire tensioner wheel will pivot clockwise) to release tension adjuster enough to remove the belts (do for both belts).

Jack car up, obviously a garage ramp lift is a huge bonus here, remove plastic under-tray for access (6 or 8 nasty screws which will be a pain to get to hold back in if there's any rust on the flimsy retainers, and 3 plastic rivets at front). Avoid the temptation to discard the awkward plastic under-tray, apparently it's there to aid air flow under the car helping it's aerodynamic properties so we should replace it afterwards. Then:

Undo spring clip (prise open with small screwdriver) on feed hose where it joins plastic L pipe from pump (replace old clip with a new screw-type jubilee clip when refitting pipe, have this clip and fresh Dexion III ATF in stock before you start the job), clamp the hose to minimise fluid loss before removing it, then unscrew and remove lower threaded union (17mm I think), have tray in place to catch fluid that will drop.

Remove pump and brackets (3 bolts, 13mm I think) noting lengths, one long bolt from front of pump, one from rear, and a shorter bolt through extra bracket.

Fit new pump (ideally prime it with a little atf first if it's dry), insert long bolt from front first to make lining up the others easier. Re-fit pipes, unclamp upper hose. Take care when inserting lower union to ensure it doesn't go in cross-threaded. Re-fit belts, I had a new long grooved belt fitted (20) as old belt showed signs of wear. Turn engine over a couple of times by hand with a socket wrench on the crank bolt to ensure belts run smoothly and pump is primed.

Then put the other bits back as you removed them. Check fluid level, start engine, turn steering lock-to-lock a couple of times to bleed system.

Re-check fluid level and the job's a good one!

(Disclaimer: I hope I've left nothing out but I'm making no claims this is how to do it, just noting my observances)
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:56 PM   #4
Forknmybut
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I almost forgot about this thread. So far I've plugged the old PS pump up with some poxy. It's still leaking slowly (haven't had to refill the resevoir since I fixed it over a month ago) but I'm going to take it to a dealership to see if I can get it replaced under CPO. As for replacing the pump I was able to get at the pump from under the car using wheel ramps. Getting at the tensioner was a bit of a pain but I was able to avoid having to take any parts from the front of the car off. Now that I know the two parts have the same specs and look identical I can fall back on something in the event the dealership won't change the pump for free.
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:18 PM   #5
cimbali
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Funny same thing happened to me, I busted the plastic elbow at the pump and repaired it gasket sealer. I also had not needed to refill the reservoir but there is still a slow leak so at some point I plan to change out the pump and hose. Could you offer any more tips on removing the ps belt pump (i.e., without disassembling the fan etc..) thx
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Old 01-08-2007, 12:13 PM   #6
tony325ci_51
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Originally Posted by cimbali View Post
Could you offer any more tips on removing the ps belt pump (i.e., without disassembling the fan etc..) thx
Fan doesn't need disassembling, the electric fan lifts out still inside the plastic shroud (slides straight upwards, towards the sky) after releasing shroud fixings and disconnecting a couple of wires as described in my above post.

Removal is actually fairly easy, just be careful with the plastic rivets (pull carefully on the protruding centre stem of rivet with thin-nose pliers until it comes up from centre of rivet, then continue to pull rivet out) if you want to re-use rivets.

It is neccesary to remove the fan shroud (containing electric fan) to get clearance to remove belts. Replacement of shroud (including fan) is reversal of removal (slide downwards in slot) and takes only a couple of minutes.

Regards,

Tony.
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:44 PM   #7
MichaelMull51
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BMW 325i assembled Sept 2001 to Sept 2002 use LF30 pump which is 120 bars (120 atmospheres oe 120 x15psi or approx 1800 psi) of pressure rather than 110 bars (110 X 15 psi or 1650 psi). I got an A1Cardone rebuilt from Rock Auto in Madison Wisconsin which gave OK price and good service. I will install it in next week - being careful to flush entire ..system including the reservoir (which includes filter), and the restrictor valve.
The listed part was not same as original part - they indicated low pressure LF20 type pump, but mine had LF30 type with LUK Part number ending in ... 582 and pressure spec of 120 bar rather than 110 bar. Rock auto made extensinve checks with A1Cardone and I now have rebuilt part identical to the LF30 pump still on car.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:06 AM   #8
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A1Cardone rebuild pump from Rock Auto in Milwaukee was best deal and easy install aftersway bar loosened. Pulley was hard to remove from old pump until I put small amount of dish soap water on it, When cleaned, it taps off with no problem. Pump rebuilt does not appear to be a LUK brand as I had hoped.
I gather we can not rely on any representations from BMW as to maintenance requirements especially re PS steering systems and re lifetime transmission fluids.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:45 AM   #9
MichaelMull51
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RockAuto rebuilt LF30 pump does not appear to be a LUK, but was the best deal, installed easily and seems to work well. Can't believe that LUK and BMW don't sell a rebuild kit - guess they want to take as much money from the consumers as they possibly can! Beautiful cars to drive ... but down time or parts ripoffs lead me to say I WOULD NOT BUY ANOTHER OF THESE BEATIFUL DRIVING MACHINES! Great to drive but a NIGHTMARE TO REPAIR!
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelMull51 View Post
RockAuto rebuilt LF30 pump does not appear to be a LUK, but was the best deal, installed easily and seems to work well. Can't believe that LUK and BMW don't sell a rebuild kit - guess they want to take as much money from the consumers as they possibly can! Beautiful cars to drive ... but down time or parts ripoffs lead me to say I WOULD NOT BUY ANOTHER OF THESE BEATIFUL DRIVING MACHINES! Great to drive but a NIGHTMARE TO REPAIR!
Gotta pay the toll for what you get.

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Old 11-23-2011, 09:24 AM   #11
MichaelMull51
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A1Cardone rebuilt Pump from ROCKAUTO.COM in Wisconsin was BEST DEAL deal for me. Online auto parts places don't always have info for proper part for BMWs but Rock Auto made inquiries to ensure I got the right part (Autopartsway was useless in that regard and 4 of its workers had trouble understanding simple request or had little interest in helping). Not sure whether it is OEM LUK LF30 (suspect it is copy) part that they rebuilt but it installed easily and has been great for last 3000 km. 325i is beautiful car to drive - but for Rock Auto, parts sourcing at reasonable pricing is very difficult and would turn one off these superb cars.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:30 PM   #12
MichaelMull51
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Gotta pay BMW toll - NOT AT ALL - I can just get a Nissan Z car!

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Originally Posted by darksideracer69 View Post
Gotta pay the toll for what you get.

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Just got a Nissan Z car. Handling and performance is as good or better, amenities better and service far better than at a BMW shop!
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Old 08-30-2014, 03:25 PM   #13
MichaelMull51
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Originally Posted by darksideracer69 View Post
Gotta pay the toll for what you get.

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The Cardone fuel pump is still good but the ridiculous PCV system (CCV and hoses) acted up. What is a 2 minute $3 repair on my Mazda is a 5-7 hr labour service requiring about $300 in BMW parts. CCV replacement if C$800 repair at an indedepndent and $1200-$1500 repair at the dealer.

Great engine with the most unnecessary, poorly designed and cheaply fabricated plastic parts that sit in a hot engine compartment. Little wonder the parts get brittle and disintegrate whenever any service necessary. Not to mention that the ineviteble problems with the CCV may result in engine oil being sucked up the oil dipsitick through the oil drain pipe through the oil separator and the check valve (Components of the Crankcase Ventilation Valve or CCV) and through the Return hose into the Intake Manifold and into the engine cylinders - causing hydrolock within the engine. Result - one may need a new engine.

Great car to drive but nightmare to service. I would never buy another new BMW product!
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:02 PM   #14
MichaelMull51
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My rebuilt A1Cardone PSP from Rock Auto continues to work fine and wife continues to enjoy driving her car. CCV problem cropped up - was just rotted out oil drain hose from CCV to dipstick - but to repair it had tp remove other fragile parts that disintegrate when you attempt to service or remove them. Great engine surrounded by poorly designed and cheaply fabricated fragile parts - that can destroy your engine (hydrolock) when oil sucked through oil separator into the intake manifold. Thermostat Issue. P0128. Use onboard computer to check actual coolant temperature (Test 19 - 7). This digital temperature reading is very acccurate and it is already built intp the 2002 325i E46. The analogue temperature guage needle in centred when temp is between about 75C and 110C so it is vey crude. Any temperature concerns, use the built in digital test 19-7 that is built into your instrument panel!
This car is one of the best - and one of the worst designs. Would not buy a new one - but would get an old used one. Core machine is superb - just upgrade it and maintain it yourself. It is like my 1980 TR7 convertible - great to drive but a costly to service - unless you do it yourself.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelMull51 View Post
CCV problem cropped up - was just rotted out oil drain hose from CCV to dipstick - but to repair it had tp remove other fragile parts that disintegrate when you attempt to service or remove them. Great engine surrounded by poorly designed and cheaply fabricated fragile parts - that can destroy your engine (hydrolock) when oil sucked through oil separator into the intake manifold. Thermostat Issue. P0128. Use onboard computer to check actual coolant temperature (Test 19 - 7). This digital temperature reading is very acccurate and it is already built into the 2002 325i E46
This car is one of the best - and one of the worst designs. Would not buy a new one - but would get an old used one. Core machine is superb - just upgrade it and maintain it yourself. It is like my 1980 TR7 convertible - great to drive but a costly to service - unless you do it yourself.
So how long do those hoses and plastic parts last in other performance cars? I would think that 5 years would be max.
bmw doesn't build their cars for those of us that buy them 5 years old. They build them for the person who wants to drop $7k down and $500 a month for 2 years, then start over.

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