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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-08-2012, 08:13 AM   #181
xd40c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvx5832 View Post
In a word, yes. If you want more confirmation than that, go through the thread and read the various confirmations from members who have successfully installed that part.

It works, but if the dealer is installing it for you, they'll tell you it doesn't work because the motor saddle/cradle are different, and that it's a part for the X3.

Just make sure you get a new motor cradle in the box (it's included) and you'll be fine.
What are you calling a "Saddle"?
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:33 AM   #182
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What are you calling a "Saddle"?
It's what the motor sits on, the one that has the metal clip and 4 screws.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:19 AM   #183
xd40c
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After recovering from some back issues, I was finally able to install the new blower motor this past weekend. I replaced a 64119204154 with a xxx729 motor.

Two very minor things I had to deal with.

First, the wires with the terminal are several inches shorter on the replacement motor than those on the original motor. I cut my old terminal wires about four inches from the terminal, then cut the new wires at the terminal, used a butt splice to put the wires back together. This gave me essientially an additional 4 inches. Plenty of room. If you go this route, be sure to use the Blue butt splices.

2nd, pay attention to the "cup" on the fan blades. With the original motor, the wires come from the left (passenger side), the replacement fan has them on the right (drivers side--this is a US car). If you put the fan in with the cups facing the wrong direction, this could adversely affect the fans performance.

Other than that this was a simple R&R job. Saved ~$400.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:29 AM   #184
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Originally Posted by paraklas View Post
Problem occurs when dust enters the motor and contaminates the 2 bearings making them "whistle" on low speeds.

This is the fan I'm talking about.. Item #1
Has anyone tried blasting some compressed air in there to remove the dust???
Maybe canned air or from a air compressor??
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:22 AM   #185
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Unfortunately it's a temporary / no-fix. The whistling sound is caused by wear on the 2 bearings so, no amount of air will do any good.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:25 PM   #186
100mileperhour
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Unfortunately it's a temporary / no-fix. The whistling sound is caused by wear on the 2 bearings so, no amount of air will do any good.
Well an unexpected ice day, called school off, so I didn't have to die trying to get to school to teach. So I worked on the fan today and I believe it was successful.

Now, I just got done and we'll see how long it lasts, but I'm hopeful that by a good cleaning and lubricating the bearings and shaft, I should have a quiet motor for sometime to come. It beats buying a new. However, this is of a P.T.IA. to get at those small torx screws in the back where the motor is bolted to its mount.

UPDATE - When I was reassembling the blower housing, I noticed that there was a "arm" that controlled the driver side flap that was disconnected. This was the fresh air blender, which now works, I now have warm air for my feet, hands and upper vents. Prior to this, I was just get cold outside air. So, this was a very successful day.
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Last edited by 100mileperhour; 01-28-2013 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:26 PM   #187
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Nice Write up and pics E46 rocks
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:17 PM   #188
mikegrad
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wow... going to try - can anyone recommend a tools list?

i have a 2005 325 XI with an intermittently chirping fan, and i am going to attempt this replacement. I think i will try with the X3 fan as it seems to be successful for others on here.

Can anyone provide a tool list to do this? I have the std metric automotive ratchet set, but it seems like a set of magnetic torx wrenches would be useful. What size Torx do i need?

Also, is it worth spending the extra $$ to get the removable fan cages? I would rather go the route of least resistance and spend the money if it reduces the hassle of installation....

Last edited by mikegrad; 05-06-2013 at 08:36 PM. Reason: added question about part..
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:26 PM   #189
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Blower Fan DIY --- E46 2004+2005 ------ IMPORTANT UPDATE -----

Searchwords: blower fan DIY change replacement on 2004 2005 E46 M56 SULEV.

!!! READ ALL !!! (*) below, before you start working.

Also upfront: this is a good opportunity to replace your old and cracked WINDSHIELD COWL, so you might want to order one in advance too. I paid $55 + shipping for mine.


First, thanks you all for this thread and this excellent write up. It really helped me a ton. However with regards to 2004 and 2005 E46, I need to add some more important info / my experiences.


Just as previously mentioned by user "Rob in LA" with his 2005 E46, also for my 2004 E46 M56 SULEV, it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove the fan without damaging the blades and it is IMPOSSIBLE to install a replacement fan UNLESS it comes with REMOVABLE FINS. The valve cover on my E46 is much higher than on the vehicles previously described in the above thread, so (if you have non-removable fins) you would probably have to remove the valve cover and or the fuel rail to gain the necessary extra 1 - 1.5 inch clearance.

On the plus side, if you order a fan with removable fins, you can save yourself a few steps:
1. you don't have to touch your windshield wipers, you can even leave them in their original resting position.
2. you don't have to (and you could not anyway) remove the driver side flaps.

The good news is that I found a fan that ended up working perfect for me all the way, including easy installation.
Fan that worked for me is made by VDO, Part# VDO PM9273.


After ordering 64113453729 (from ECS Tuning $115, the unit that I received was made by Behr and came with NON REMOVABLE fins) and realizing that I can not use it, I called my local Autoparts Store (O'Reily Autoparts) and confirmed them over the phone that their aftermarket fan comes with removable blades. They had one in stock, made by VDO, Part#VDO PM9273 for $151. I found that Amazon has it for $104, but with everything open under the hood, I needed it right away.

First the VDO unit did not look reassuring as I took it out of the box. Unlike (it's super professionally boxed OEM counterpart), the VDO unit was simply boxed in an oversized box, laying around by itself with the fan assembly being able to move around and fall around on its fins when during shipping the box was tossed around or otherwise mishandled. Further, the fins did not have any balancing weights either, despite the manufacturer's claims of the unit being balanced.

(*) So I think it is very important to test it first for proper operation ESPECIALLY BALANCING before proceeding. I did that, trying to feel out if there was any imbalance. Luckily, I could not feel any balance issues, and even later after installation during use in the car, there is no hint of any unbalance either.

(*) I find it also it is very important that right after you get your (removable fan) fan assembly, you try to remove one side of the fans. On mine the nuts were secured with red loctite and I was only able to take off one side (you only have to take off one side for successful installation). The nut on other side (this was the side that I actually started with) was impossible to open. The problem is that you need to counter-hold the fan blades in order to open the small nut and then the fan blades start flexing and snapping if you apply too much force.

(*) So make sure you start with this BEFORE you even start opening things under your hood, as you might need to exchange your fan assembly for one, on which you may be able to remove at least one of the fins (it does not matter which side fan blade, you'll find enough place in the fanbox to bolt back any one side of them).

Also on the fan that I got, even after removing the nut, the fan blades were stuck very strong to the shaft (shaft turned out to be hint rusted and that was enough for the strong sticking trouble). It took me almost 25 minutes of patient careful and very gentle wiggling (being careful not to damage the blades).


Another hint. It was mentioned before, but it is kind of buried in all the info. As you open things under the hood and you get to the point where you see the fan secured by 4 torx bolts, you DON'T need to open any of these torx bolts (besides that, it would be even "impossible" to open the bottom 2x torx bolts, because you would need a super thin shaft AND short torx 15). You just need to simply unclip the fanmotor.


Update (to the update):

I'm not sure if this has been said before: with the fan installed, it looks like fanblade space in the fan housing between the two inlet halves of the housing is very very tight. As a result I ended up with a rubbing fanblade, rubbing on the fan inlet.

Worse, this issue did not appear until I put everything back togather and started driving the car. Even then it would only appear during left hand turns.

I took care of this by trimming about 1/8 inch off the back (dashboard) half of the fan inlet. I used a sharp carpetknife and cut along the plastic curve.

The crearance at the front side (which has two removable halves) was much weider on my vehicle, so it needed no modification.

Point is, you are well advised to trim the back half of the fan inlet a little bit before you reinstsall the new fan and TEST IT !!!

You can easily test it before closing the housing off, by securing the fan with it's clip and then turning the fan and pushing the motor left and right and see if it rubs or hits somewhere.

Last edited by Andreas1000; 07-16-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:32 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvx5832 View Post
It's what the motor sits on, the one that has the metal clip and 4 screws.
Is this the saddle mentioned in the thread?

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ539035031
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:58 PM   #191
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Just finished the installation. Somebody said this was a 20 minute job that was a 2 on a scale of 10. I have rebuilt engines and this was no 2. Lucky I didn't break anything. Getting that side cover off the heater housing was quite difficult. I ended up taping the small screws to my driver just to make sure they didn't fall into the hole.
BMW should be ashamed they charge $1000 for a blower motor (In Canada) when the $115 dollar X3 unit plugs right in. (In Canad they want $220 for this blower) I did not have to modify any wiring on my 2003. Plugged right in.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:08 AM   #192
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I did this job a couple days ago, using the old motor as a demo for the video here. Provided your flaps come off without any trouble this should be pretty easy. I removed the engine covers and the passenger side housing (its 2-piece) around the blower motor.

For the screws, I used a ratcheting magnetic bit driver in one hand (its sitting on the cowling in the video) and I was holding the screws with my other hand. Those weren't bad with the right tools except for the one screw top center set far back there. For that one I used a piece of tape to hold the screw to the bit like Nicad did. That was probably the hardest part of the whole job. After removing the right parts this was a piece of cake. I took a quick video maneuvering the fan into place but I realized afterwards my head was in the way for the important part, sorry! At least it'll show what parts I took off.

Last edited by compcrasher86; 01-12-2014 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:08 AM   #193
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Double post, sorry

Last edited by compcrasher86; 01-12-2014 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:17 PM   #194
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As Compcrasher86 stated this DIY is not difficult. I followed directions in Bently which are quite similar to the ones used here. The hamster wheels have to be removed from the passenger side after removing the cowls and flap. The flap is removed by pulling up on the plastic pin, sort of like removing the hinge of a door then the rest becomes easy.
I used the X3 replacement motor which required removing the old saddle and replacing with the new one that came with the new motor. The motor is now nice and quiet and no more noises.
When removing the screws I used an extension magnet on the screws after unscrewing them. Had no problems with that.
Using the Bentlys procedure made this quite easy. This was on my car, a 2000 328.

Last edited by jumbee; 01-15-2014 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:32 PM   #195
PastorTjackberg
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Originally Posted by jumbee View Post
As Compcrasher86 stated this DIY is not difficult. I followed directions in Bently which are quite similar to the ones used here. The hamster wheels have to be removed from the passenger side after removing the cowls and flap. The flap is removed by pulling up on the plastic pin, sort of like removing the hinge of a door then the rest becomes easy.
I used the X3 replacement motor which required removing the old saddle and replacing with the new one that came with the new motor. The motor is now nice and quiet and no more noises.
When removing the screws I used an extension magnet on the screws after unscrewing them. Had no problems with that.
Using the Bentlys procedure made this quite easy. This was on my car, a 2000 328.
Can you please link where i can buy that blower? I live in sweden so i need shipping to. Thx!
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:49 PM   #196
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Originally Posted by PastorTjackberg View Post
Can you please link where i can buy that blower? I live in sweden so i need shipping to. Thx!

http://www.ecstuning.com/


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Old 02-05-2014, 01:41 PM   #197
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Originally Posted by PastorTjackberg View Post
Can you please link where i can buy that blower? I live in sweden so i need shipping to. Thx!
I used Tischer BMW in Maryland...It was an original BMW part with the saddle in the box. The new saddle is necessary as the new motor will not fit on the old saddle.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #198
l8apex10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbee View Post
As Compcrasher86 stated this DIY is not difficult. I followed directions in Bently which are quite similar to the ones used here. The hamster wheels have to be removed from the passenger side after removing the cowls and flap. The flap is removed by pulling up on the plastic pin, sort of like removing the hinge of a door then the rest becomes easy.
I used the X3 replacement motor which required removing the old saddle and replacing with the new one that came with the new motor. The motor is now nice and quiet and no more noises.
When removing the screws I used an extension magnet on the screws after unscrewing them. Had no problems with that.
Using the Bentlys procedure made this quite easy. This was on my car, a 2000 328.
Do the hamster wheels come off the factory x3 part (64-11-3-453-729)?
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:54 AM   #199
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Oops...just saw this...as far as I remember the hampster wheels didn't appear to be removable from the x3 part
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:57 AM   #200
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I did not remove the hamster wheels when changing mine. Just put it in verrrrry carefully and slowly.
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