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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-23-2008, 12:15 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Arsevader View Post
BMW does in fact use a 'special lubricant' for the installation of the control arm bushings. I don't have an E46 Bentley yet but the E30 Bentley talks about this.

The part number is 81 22 9 407 284 I believe. It only comes in enormous containers though so good luck actually ordering some.

The 'Special Lubricant' is in fact Turpentine. It provides just enough slipperiness and evaporates quickly. Though I would be highly wary of actually soaking a bushing in the stuff.

Greases or things like that are a no no as someone has already mentioned. You want the inner race of the bush to basically bond to the arm which is why it's such a pain in the ass to remove. This bonding is what lets the bushing do its work which is also why they fail, eventually the twisting will break down the rubber.
imagine that.
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:07 AM   #82
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I was wondering how you make sure it time to replace control arm and bushing,because i have no ideal should i change or not
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:25 PM   #83
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Here's the TIS version of how to do it - nothing new actually, but some might find it interesting.

And it does specifically call for installation with soapy water.
This is excellent, much appreciated!
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:27 PM   #84
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any tips on removing rear lower wishbone, bolts are already loosen but the bolt won't release. Any would be great. Thx
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:19 AM   #85
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Is an alignment necessary after this fix?
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:43 AM   #86
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Is an alignment necessary after this fix?
Theoretically, no, so long as you are very conscientious about installing the arms to the bushings at the same insertion depth as the old arms.

As a practical matter though, it's a very good idea to get an alignment. If you have worn out control arm ball joints, odds are it's also been a while since you had an alignment done.

The other alternative would be to check and adjust your front toe yourself - DIY instructions here - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=459889
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:06 PM   #87
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I'm having a massively hard time removing the arms. They seem glued to the car. I've been using a pickel fork to remove them, but they seem to not budge. WD-40, soapy water. Everything is proving to be useless. Any advice??
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:34 PM   #88
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3lb hammer and DONT swing your purse at it. You really gotta beat the hell out of 'em sometimes
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:07 PM   #89
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Alright, i guess ill try again tomorrow at it.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:01 PM   #90
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I'm having a massively hard time removing the arms. They seem glued to the car. I've been using a pickel fork to remove them, but they seem to not budge. WD-40, soapy water. Everything is proving to be useless. Any advice??


It's not a good idea to use a pickel fork. It will mess up the control arm rubber bushing. Go and rent a control arm 2 prong puller (i think that's what they call it) from Autozone. Way easier. No 3lbs hammer needed. Just a socket wrench.
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Old 06-25-2008, 02:09 PM   #91
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It's not a good idea to use a pickel fork. It will mess up the control arm rubber bushing. Go and rent a control arm 2 prong puller (i think that's what they call it) from Autozone. Way easier. No 3lbs hammer needed. Just a socket wrench.
This is a good idea if you are not planning on replacing the CA, but my assumption is that if you are posting in the meyle diy thread and removing the control arms then chances are you are replacing the control arms as well. If you are going replacement then the pickle fork and 3lb. hammer are all you need. Plenty of people here as well as most shops use the pickle fork method.
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:07 AM   #92
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I finished the DIY last week. WOW the car is a totally different beast. Sharp handling and the fact in the back of my head that i did it. This coming from someone who hasn't even done an oil change ever. Thanks to everyone!
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Old 07-02-2008, 02:03 PM   #93
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It's not a good idea to use a pickel fork. It will mess up the control arm rubber bushing. Go and rent a control arm 2 prong puller (i think that's what they call it) from Autozone. Way easier. No 3lbs hammer needed. Just a socket wrench.
I have the two prong lever, it will only fit the outer ball joint...no way to get into the inner ball joint with the steering rack and subframe
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Old 07-07-2008, 09:06 AM   #94
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My HD control arm bushings I got from bimmerworld failed immediately on the first road test. They are leaking oil and the O ring on the fwd and aft sides has separated from the main assy. anybody else have this problem? Who makes the best bushing that is not going to give me anymore trouble? and yes I did replace the control arms at the same time.
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:46 PM   #95
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I just completed the control arm replacement with the Meyle HD's. One thing that I found, it makes life much easier if you remove the front anti-sway bar before attempting to remove the inner ball joint bolts....it gives more swing for the one ended 21 mm wrench.

All I can say is holy shiat batman.......what an improvement and I did not need an alignment
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Old 07-20-2008, 12:00 AM   #96
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My HD control arm bushings I got from bimmerworld failed immediately on the first road test. They are leaking oil and the O ring on the fwd and aft sides has separated from the main assy. anybody else have this problem? Who makes the best bushing that is not going to give me anymore trouble? and yes I did replace the control arms at the same time.
meyle buhings dont have oil in em.
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:58 PM   #97
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WoW! Great Information everyone. Thank you.

I'm having problems with removing the outer passenger ball joint. Pickle fork and hammer method did not work.

Next step is this:


Question is, which one and why? You guys know the difference or which one would you recommend.

1) Sears OTC Ball Joint Separator $44.99

2) Sears KD Tools Universal Ball Joint Separator $19.99

3) NAPA Ball Joint Separator $19.09

4) NAPA Ball Joint Separator $23.49

5) Bimmer Tools Tie Rod/Ball Joint Lifter $18.95

6) Bimmer Tools Ball Joint Separator $54.00
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:41 PM   #98
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I'm having problems with removing the outer passenger ball joint. Pickle fork and hammer method did not work.
Get a bigger hammer!!!! One good wack with my sledge broke it loose.
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Old 07-20-2008, 04:44 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo e46 View Post
My HD control arm bushings I got from bimmerworld failed immediately on the first road test. They are leaking oil and the O ring on the fwd and aft sides has separated from the main assy. anybody else have this problem? Who makes the best bushing that is not going to give me anymore trouble? and yes I did replace the control arms at the same time.
meyle buhings dont have oil in em.[/QUOTE]

Wrong bimmerbreath. The HD bushings I got from bimmerworkd most definitely had oil inside. It was dripping out after they failed. By the way, bimmerworld did send replacements. I went with the powerflex and everything seems to be fine now.

Last edited by pablo e46; 07-20-2008 at 04:46 PM. Reason: fix quote
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Old 07-20-2008, 05:10 PM   #100
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Get a bigger hammer!!!! One good wack with my sledge broke it loose.
Used a 3lb hammer with no luck.
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