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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 03-29-2007, 12:44 PM   #21
320de46m47
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ok you've convinced me ...are they zenner diodes? 3amps .... any other rating? i seem to remember there's another number in the spec of a diode...Btw who are "we"?

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Old 03-29-2007, 01:02 PM   #22
320de46m47
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so it should look like this?
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Old 03-29-2007, 02:00 PM   #23
HighVoltage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1242 View Post
We always use diodes instead of relays for DDE installs. Although DDEs normally draw less than 1A, during initial start the ballasts have a current surge, so I would suggest getting 3A diodes. Much more elegant, simple and reliable (no moving parts) than a relay.
In the ballasts that were supplied with my DDEs that in-rush current never exceeded 1A. Given a 12V source, there was some minor ringing of the voltage on startup but the steady state occurred approx ~3.2 microseconds afterward. However this was a single case (well, 2 ballasts) and may only represent the typical characteristics of a particular ballast manufacturer. In any case seeing as how the cost differential between a 1A and 3A in these quantities is minimal, WTF, get the 3A...




BTW, the steady state current draw was around 0.5A @ 12V, however it will vary dependant on the input (source) voltage.

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Old 03-29-2007, 02:14 PM   #24
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That's what I have observed for the most part, so we initially used 1A fuses. We had a couple 1A fuses blow, so we started going with 3A fuses and 3A diodes. Might be overkill, but I rather spend a few extra cents on the 3A diodes than have a failure due to a ballast that is slightly out of spec.
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Old 03-29-2007, 02:36 PM   #25
320de46m47
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hey will you 2 stop showing off and answer the punters' questions!? lol

btw dependant in lieu of dependent has no e


diagram correct ?
fuse rating?
diode rating other tham amps?
who are "we"?

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Old 03-29-2007, 03:04 PM   #26
ca1242
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Both diagrams are correct (diodes and relays).

Fuse rating 3A

Diode, just a regular rectifier 3A diode (NOT zener or scottky), other ratings do not matter as long as it is a rectifier diode. i.e.:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
http://68.208.124.66/dealer/Itemdesc.asp?CartId={4D55354E-DEAE-46EEVEREST0-A0B5-EA416B2D3D6B}&ic=DIODE3&eq=&Tp=
You could also try mouser.com, jameco.com and maybe even parts-express.com might have them


We is myself and another guy I normally work with doing installs on cars (mostly BMWs), i.e. lights, radar detectors, stereos, alarms, remote starts, etc, etc.

Also... although it wouldn't hurt to add a fuse on the dome lights circuit, the circuit is already fused at the car, so I normally just install a fuse on the other connection (ignition or ECU) only.
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Old 03-29-2007, 03:15 PM   #27
320de46m47
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thanks man!
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Old 03-29-2007, 04:23 PM   #28
HighVoltage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1242 View Post
That's what I have observed for the most part, so we initially used 1A fuses. We had a couple 1A fuses blow, so we started going with 3A fuses and 3A diodes. Might be overkill, but I rather spend a few extra cents on the 3A diodes than have a failure due to a ballast that is slightly out of spec.
Ya I agree. Hmm, this makes me wonder though if that could be due to something else like some other load on the same circuit, such as the fan. When/if the fan kicks off there could be some back emf that surges down the circuit to the diode and through the fuse and on its way to gnd through the ballast. In which case placing a snubber of some sort (i.e fast transient suppression diode) may solve that issue. Hard to imagine though that there isnt already some sort of flyback at the fan motor....





Quote:
Originally Posted by 320de46m47 View Post
hey will you 2 stop showing off and answer the punters' questions!? lol

btw dependant in lieu of dependent has no e


diagram correct ?
fuse rating?
diode rating other tham amps?
who are "we"?
Oh are you still here?
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Old 03-30-2007, 06:54 AM   #29
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I doubt the fan puts out that much back EMF, besides, in 90% of the cars we do, we tap into the ignition switch, not the ECU. Most likely low battery or bad alternator, voltage dropped enough that the ballasts started drawing more current. Who knows.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:33 AM   #30
320de46m47
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where exactly do you tap into the ign switch ? X253 KLR/15 Ign pos 1 or 2 which is middle Black connector gen control module 54 pin connector x253 pin 27 violet and yellow maybe?

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Old 03-30-2007, 11:01 AM   #31
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I tap at the ignition harness. Have bad memory, but I believe it is the green wire. Don't forget the fuse holder + fuse!
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Old 03-30-2007, 11:41 AM   #32
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Wouldn't using the install method on that one FastM3 site give you the same results?
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:15 PM   #33
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I tap at the ignition harness. Have bad memory, but I believe it is the green wire. Don't forget the fuse holder + fuse!
that wire is quarter of an inch thick!
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:22 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by 320de46m47 View Post
that wire is quarter of an inch thick!
That's why you need to add the fuse!

Also, I wouldn't use a T-tap on that wire. I would recommend stripping some insulation and soldering the new wire on it.
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:29 PM   #35
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I tap at the ignition harness. Have bad memory, but I believe it is the green wire. Don't forget the fuse holder + fuse!
that wire is quarter of an inch thick (if you mean the one under the actual ignition switch)!
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Old 03-30-2007, 01:30 PM   #36
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KLR/15 middle Black connector gen control module 54 pin connector x253 pin 27 violet and yellow

much better!
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Old 03-30-2007, 01:35 PM   #37
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You can also tap into the radio harness, ac harness or phone harness. Many places available.
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:32 PM   #38
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Key remote out of the box.

I referred to this thread many times before ordering my Chromiums. I definitely learned the value of a good wiring harness incl relay. The current Chromium angel eyes kit already offers the remote feature as standard -- demo'ed on the jLevi site
http://www.jlevistreetwerks.com/Remote.wmv

The Umnitza remote feature seems to incorporate what has been posted, but this thread definitely helps if you already have angel eyes installed.



^ An install graphic that was useful shows the location of the relay and wire grommet. Once the (fused) wire is pushed down and through, the tap is made on the BLUE - RED striped footwell light wire.
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:11 PM   #39
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If you want to follow the instructions on that picture, do not use the ground on the right. A lot of people do that, but in most cases, unless you strip the paint, you are not going to get a good ground there. If you want to be safe, go to the ground on the left.
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:54 AM   #40
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I bought the SPDT relay and the one that they gave is generic one with no marking on it i can easily dentify the normally close terminals but my problem is the supposed to be 85 and 86 terminal .is there any polarity issue with this two ? and another thing the shop told me that 10A 400ohms 12vdc SPDT will be alright with my install are this figures correct?
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