DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!
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|11-14-2011, 02:47 PM||#1|
BMW E46 3-Series DIY: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
This DIY article will help you successfully change the Valve Cover Gasket in the E46 3-Series. This was done on a 325xi so there might be a few variations between the different models, but all should be closely related.
This is also a very good time to do your Spark Plugs if it is time to have that done. If you are looking for the Spark Plug DIY please follow the link below:
E46 Spark Plug Replacement DIY
Flat Head Screwdriver
3/8 Extensions (6"+)
TORX 30 Socket
Optional: RTV Red High Temp Silicone
OEM Valve Cover Gasket: 11129070990
Valve Cover Grommets (15): 11-12-1-437-395
First thing we want to do is remove the cabin filter housing
There are 3 securing tabs holding the cabin filter cover on. They are outlined in the picture below
To release the tabs, simply twist them counter-clockwise
Here is a shot of the tabs in the released position
Pull the cover off the reveal the cabin filter
The cabin filter just sits in the housing. Simply pull it out to remove. Note the orientation so you put the new one back in correctly
Removing the cabin filter will reveal four (4) TORX30 bolts holding the carbin filter housing in place. Grab your 3/4 Ratchet and loosen these up. They will not come out from the housing, but will become loose as to where you can remove the panel
Below are all four bolts outlined for your convenience
Before we remove the cabin filter housing let's take the battery line and the coil pack harness line out of the front holder. These wires are secured in this plastic housing. Simply pop the four (4) clips as shown below to open the compartment
Remove the two wires (coil harness on top / battery line on bottom)
We can now remove the cabin filter housing by pulling forward and placing it out of the way.
Let's get the battery line out of the way. Pop the cover shown below next to the passenger shock tower to reveal the 19mm bolt holding it down
Grab your ratchet and 19mm socket and remove it
Place the 19mm bolt back on the screw to ensure you don't misplace it. You can now move the line out of the way
Now we can work on removing the engine dressing covers. Grab a flathead and locate the two caps pointed out below. By popping these off you will reveal the two 10mm bolts holding the cover to the valve cover.
Remove the oil fill cap by rotating counter-clockwise
Grab your 10mm socket and remove the two bolts holding the engine dressing on
We can now pull the cover off and place it out of the way.
Same thing for the top cover. Remove the two covers shown below and remove the two (2) 10mm bolts. Then pull the engine cover from the engine bay
Let's remove the line at the top right of the valve cover. To do so pinch the areas shown below to release the connector and pull
By now you should be looking at something like this
Next step is to remove the coil packs.
Note: I believe some of the early model E46 coil packs might be secured to the valve cover via bolt design. If so you can easily enough just unbolt them and pull them free from the valve cover
First step to the coil pack removal is to release the coil pack harness from the coil pack itself. This can be done by sliding the locking mechanism upward as shown below
The with lock mechanism released you can grab the connector and pull away from the coil pack. Repeat this step for all 6 coil packs.
Here is a shot of the connector free from the coil pack
The coil packs are suctioned into the cylinder head so i found the best way to remove them was with a small extension. Grab your extension and slide it through the release connector as shown below. Apply and equal amount of pressure on each side to prevent snapping it. Pull upward gently to remove the coil pack
With the coil pack loose you can slide it out of the cylinder head
Here is a shot of valve cover with all of the coil packs removed
Next we want to remove the O2 sensor plugs and all of the wires that are connected to the bottom of the valve cover. All of this stuff is secured via clips and can just be popped free
Grab a 8mm socket and remove the bolt holding the ground wire to the valve cover
Here is a shot of the wire removed
Last edited by joeycannoli; 11-16-2011 at 07:06 AM.
|11-14-2011, 02:47 PM||#2|
Now we must get the coil pack harness out of the way. The whole harness is secured to the valve cover via small black clips. I have outlined the location of the clips below and took a close up to show you what they look like
With your finger, pry the clips away from the harness to release. With the harness loose you can move it out of the way and fold it up onto the intake manifold.
We are almost ready to remove the value cover. You want to make sure all of the wires are free and clear on the bottom and far side of the valve cover. See below how they are all tucked away from it
Next step is to remove all of the 10mm bolts holding the valve cover down. There are 15 bolts total securing the cover to the head. I have outlined them all below for reference
Grab your 10mm socket and go to work. Remove all 15 bolts securing the valve cover. The bolts will consist of a metal washer and rubber grommet. Make sure both come out with the bolt.
With all of the bolts removed we can now take the cover off. The cover might be sealed pretty good on there so you might have to give it a persuasive tug. Use the oil fill hole for leverage if needed
Shot of the head with the vale cover removed
Here is a shot of the old gasket. It is hard to tell in the picture but the old gasket was all dried out and cracking. Remove the old gasket and the spark plug seals.
New parts ready to be installed
Seat your new valve cover gasket and spark plug seats in the valve cover. You may way to run a bit of oil along the edge that is seated into the cover to lubricate it a bit.
Before we put the cover back on i recommend putting some Red RTV High Temperature silicone on where the half moon seals sit. It would not hurt to put a little bit of silicone where you suspect loans are prone to form.
Apply the RTV as shown below. Let the RTV sit for about an hour to seal properly before starting the car up
Now you can seat the valve cover back in place on the cylinder head.
Grab your new grommets and seat them in place for all of your valve cover bolts
Starting putting the valve cover bolts back on. I suggest tightening the bolts down in a star pattern to ensure equal pressure on all sides. Recommended Torque specs can be found below
Torque Specifications: 10nm
Center bolt secured
Shot of all the bolts tightened in place
At this point you can begin following this DIY in the reverse order to button everything back up. Here is a shot of everything with most of the stuff re-installed.
Hope this article has helped and motivated you guys to continue doing your own maintenance. Any questions please feel free to ask.
Last edited by joeycannoli; 11-15-2011 at 12:28 AM.
|11-14-2011, 04:46 PM||#3|
Join Date: Jun 2010
My Ride: 2001 325i
I've used this image (courtesy of Beisan systems) for where to apply RTV, which includes both seams where the vanos meets the head:
In a similar manner, this is how BMW says to apply it at the half moons and seams:
There's a typo .... original says "Now you can seat the valve cover back in place on the cylinder hear." Probably meant cylinder head.
|12-13-2011, 12:42 AM||#9|
Join Date: May 2009
My Ride: slow and steady
Nice write up!
I can help with
* Reading Codes / Coding your car
* R&R FCAs, Tie Rods, Sway links....
Need an RTAB tool? Or clutch fan and water pump tools? PM me.
|12-15-2011, 09:58 PM||#12|
perfect write up as it was my first time doing the gaskets and spark plugs.
took me 2 days to do them and the spark plugs :bang head:
my valve cover ground bolt was stripped and took me 2 hrs to get off
had to wait til the next day to go get a new one than grabbed the wrong silicone sealant
also dropped my 10mm socket down into the car so i had to take the guard off
pretty much small frustrating set backs here and there
if i didn't have any of the set back would have been a breeze
spark plus were simple as well
a little shot of my engine.. sorry iPhone 4 pic
clean and healthy
|12-15-2011, 11:03 PM||#13|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Francisco
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330Ci Conv
P0171 and P0174 after VCG change
Great writeup! I just did this replacement today as mine was leaking oil like crazy (also had to replace oil level sender and do an oil change, but that's unrelated!).
Car drives fine - but after a 45 minute drive on the freeway the SES light came on with codes P0171 and P0174.... something about it running lean. I cleaned off the head and valve cover well before placing them on, used a small amount of RTV as indicated, and tightened the nuts well. Any thoughts as to why this is coming up? Car seems to be running fine!
|12-16-2011, 03:54 PM||#15|
thought i would chime back with a question.. your write up and the other DIY's do not show 2 ground wires on the valve cover, just the 1???
i have 2 ground wires, does anyone else?
|12-16-2011, 04:48 PM||#16|
Join Date: Nov 2010
My Ride: 99 328i
|12-16-2011, 05:38 PM||#18|
|12-17-2011, 07:34 AM||#19|
Join Date: May 2011
My Ride: '02 M3 vert
Be careful with the vacuum hose you have to move out of the way. Thought it was a hardline and cracked out because it was old as sh!t now I have to make a run to the dealer today. Other than that, very easy diy.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Bimmer
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