ATF Change DIY/FAQ (Pictures)

EXCELLENT DIY!!!
Great Pics and good detail. I was starting my own DIY on my GM Tranny when I came upon yours. 'nuf said. 1999 E46 328i M52 72K. I'm using Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF and AT parts kit from Pelican. Fluid=$4.49/qt x 9, Elring-Klinger Filter/gasket/bolts=34.98+s/h, Total cost: under $76 labor=free. My actual time was 1hr 45min from raising to lowering.
Car Ramps are crucial to get the car as level as possible.
My T-40 got stripped when removing the drain. Get the best tools, Mac or SK. Went to Sears and got their T-45 lo-profile socket 3/8 for the refill. I nearly busted my nut, figuratively and literally.
Spray parts cleaner liberally.
Coat both sides of the new gasket with a little fresh ATF.
Prefill pan with new ATF and presoak new filter with new ATF to avoid a dry sump.

Originally Posted by Hark

So I had an independent shop change my step transmission fluid (2000 328Ci) at ~84K miles a few weeks ago. Before the change, when starting cold, shifting to reverse happens quickly and fine, but when I shift into drive, it takes like 8-10 seconds. Now after the fluid change, it still takes a while to engage drive when cold, but now it's a more gradual process of engaging the gear - after ~ 10 secs I'll step on the gas, and it'll move a little bit, but I feel the engine revving higher and not proportional to the amount of car movement. Finally after some warming up it performs fine. Anyone know why this is?

Hark,
I would suggest you check to make sure your tranny is properly filled with fluid. It made a difference in my friends car. He was experiencing the same symptoms you are having.

Thanks, I appreciate your note. I just had an "inspection I" done at the dealer, where supposedly they should've topped off all fluids. Is it possible to overfill the transmission fluid? Meaning if I add some myself, could I be adding too much?

You know, I read once where too much fluid has an adverse effect on these trannys also.

For the 22 bolts that hold the pan, can we reuse our old ones? I have been looking online and of all the kits I have seen don't include the new bolts.

Originally Posted by DRGEEFORCE

EXCELLENT DIY!!!
Great Pics and good detail. I was starting my own DIY on my GM Tranny when I came upon yours. 'nuf said. 1999 E46 328i M52 72K. I'm using Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF and AT parts kit from Pelican. Fluid=$4.49/qt x 9, Elring-Klinger Filter/gasket/bolts=34.98+s/h, Total cost: under $76 labor=free. My actual time was 1hr 45min from raising to lowering.
Car Ramps are crucial to get the car as level as possible.
My T-40 got stripped when removing the drain. Get the best tools, Mac or SK. Went to Sears and got their T-45 lo-profile socket 3/8 for the refill. I nearly busted my nut, figuratively and literally.
Spray parts cleaner liberally.
Coat both sides of the new gasket with a little fresh ATF.
Prefill pan with new ATF and presoak new filter with new ATF to avoid a dry sump.

Where did you get your kit?

Originally Posted by Zero2_2005

Where did you get your kit?

In his post he stated Pelican = Pelican Parts.

Originally Posted by Zero2_2005

For the 22 bolts that hold the pan, can we reuse our old ones? I have been looking online and of all the kits I have seen don't include the new bolts.

My kit from www.SteveHaygood.com came with new bolts. The Bentley manual says if you don't use new ones to clean the old ones and coat with Loctite thread locking compound or equivalent.

I don't like the idea of putting on threadlockers on pan bolts, because there's a chance you'll/next person will be snapping off bolt heads trying to remove it.

I'd think the blue thread locker wouldn't give you any problem the next time you need to remove them (vs. red).

The Master BMW technician told me that you dont have to start the engine while refilling the final fluid top off because the pan was already warm enough. If you start the engine it will only expand the fluid too much. If you live in the warm climate you dont have to follow the Bently Manual in refilling the fluid. Any nuggets on this? I debated on this but how can I argue with the BMW Master Tech with 10years experience.

This makes no sense. The point of starting your engine is that there are pumps in the transmission that suck the oil when the car is turned on. How could the pumps work with a "warm pan". For this reason alone, you have to run your car. Its not a co-incidence that all of a sudden you can add an extra couple of quarts even though you had already topped off the pan before starting the engine.
I would be leary of this Master Tech.

You need to start it to get more into the system. I drained out six liters and it only took 4 before it started coming out. Plugged it and started, checked pan temp with kitchen laser temp sensor 110f, opened fill plug and it took another two liters.

Now some notes on my change from today. 05 330Ci with the A5S390R transmission and 116k miles.
Fluid was BLACK like really bad oil. Pan was coated in black film and filter media was pitch black. Everything cleaned up nice and easy.
Got the part number off the pan for the fluid, 83220024359, took it to BMW and the guy told me that it was only for the Xi, not the Ci. I verified the part number again and went back. Different guy put same part number into the computer as I watched and it's been superseeded by (82330397114) (dextron VI) made by Petro-Canada and sold in four liter containers, no need to take your own container. Cost $74 per jug or $18.50 per liter but you have to buy the whole jug.

Bentley says 9.5 liters total and 8 if not draining the converter. I got six and it took six to fill without draining the converter. Not sure how a converter could only hold 1.5 liters according to Bentley, has to be more than that since it only drained six. Bentley manual hasn't been very accurate in the last three jobs I did. For what the manual cost, I'd expect better data but that is a different topic.

Hardest part was jacking it up and getting it level. Backed up on ramps and jacked the front and used jack stands.

Kit from Bavarian Autosport had a rubber gasket, stock gasket was a metal gasket with a molded rubber edging. Ford has used these for years and they are reusable since the metal in the gasket prevents you from over tighening and the rubber does the sealing job.
Shifts smoother and no leaks!

If I was to do it again, I'd buy another 4 liter jug. As I was filling the last two liters to make six and it got mixed with the old fluid, it came out dark. I'd recommend draining and refilling to help get some of the really old fluid out or find a way to drain the converter if that is possible. Dextron VI is bright red FWIW.

Scale of 1-10, a 3 in my book. Not a whole lot different than changing the fluid on my F250 auto except filling is from the engine compartment.

what kind of pump do you use and where did you buy it?

Is this the right kit for my tranny?
http://bmwpartsonly.com/OEM-Parts/20...FilterKit.html

What is the part number for the fill plug? Also, Where can I buy it? I need a new transmission fill plug!!!
Not a Drain Plug, need a fill plug!!

Don't know the production date of your car, but from realoem.com for an 07/99 328i:



No. Description Supplement Qty Part Number Price
01 OIL PAN 1 24117533832 $85.37
02 GASKET, OIL PAN 1 24117524707 $25.11
04 SCREW M6X16 20 24117533655 $1.13
05 OIL DRAIN PLUG 1 Up to 06/2003 24117533937 $3.91
06 SET OIL FILTER 1 24117557070 $109.65
07 SCREW PLUG, INNER TORX 1 24111423986 $4.63
09 SCREW PLUG, INNER HEXAGON 1 From 06/1999 24117533656 $5.30

Originally Posted by John in VA

Don't know the production date of your car, but from realoem.com for an 07/99 328i:



No. Description Supplement Qty Part Number Price
01 OIL PAN 1 24117533832 $85.37
02 GASKET, OIL PAN 1 24117524707 $25.11
04 SCREW M6X16 20 24117533655 $1.13
05 OIL DRAIN PLUG 1 Up to 06/2003 24117533937 $3.91
06 SET OIL FILTER 1 24117557070 $109.65
07 SCREW PLUG, INNER TORX 1 24111423986 $4.63
09 SCREW PLUG, INNER HEXAGON 1 From 06/1999 24117533656 $5.30

which ones? could it be 7?

Anyone?

anyone used royal purple atf?