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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-21-2011, 09:07 AM   #81
mps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWFan View Post
I'm having a problem finishing up this project myself. On the accessory tensioner it uses Torx, when releasing the tension I didn't have to release a lot to get the belt off. However, now that I am putting the belt back on I'm finding I can't do it. What is happening is the Torx bit keeps slipping out of the hole. THe only way I can get it to stay in place is to use both hands and I can only hold that for a few seconds, then it pops out.

Any special technique you guys are using to get the smaller belt back on?
SWFan, did you ever figure this out? I'm curious
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:31 PM   #82
jetblackmaverick
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Super helpful, I am going to be changing my deflection pulley, tensioner, and all bolts tonight. thumbs up!
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:29 PM   #83
rando-defranco
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The tensioner is the lower pully and mounting hardware behind fan. This whole assembly will rotate clockwise to loosed the belt if you use the pully cener torx socket to turn it. The idler (or deflection pully) is up closer to the PS resevoir. This is held in place with one single long normal function (lefty/loosy) bolt. (Dont break it!) This will be offset if you have a mechanical (spring) tensioner assembly, or center hole if you have the later hydraulit tensioner assembly. Or so I'm told.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:03 PM   #84
aurelius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johntrhodes81 View Post
In the parts catalog it shows mechanical or hydraulic tensioner. Will either fit or do some M54's fit one and some the other? Are they interchangeable?
You have to visually verify which tensioner unit your car has.

If hydraulic, replace only the pulley (11-28-1-748-131). If mechanical, see post #65 or consider conversion to the more durable hydraulic unit, which runs about $100 from Pelican Parts:

hydraulic version upgrade: $66 11-28-7-838-797-M40
+ conversion kit: $33 09-0434-001-M40 (includes pulley)
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:12 PM   #85
aurelius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWFan View Post
I'm having a problem finishing up this project myself. On the accessory tensioner it uses Torx, when releasing the tension I didn't have to release a lot to get the belt off. However, now that I am putting the belt back on I'm finding I can't do it. What is happening is the Torx bit keeps slipping out of the hole. THe only way I can get it to stay in place is to use both hands and I can only hold that for a few seconds, then it pops out.

Any special technique you guys are using to get the smaller belt back on?
This photo from delmarco's similar thread (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=696330) may answer this question but only applies to mechanical-style tensioner:


Last edited by aurelius; 05-03-2011 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:23 PM   #86
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Thought I found mechanical tensioner pulleys, but i was wrong. Carry on.

Last edited by steve108819; 10-19-2011 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:34 PM   #87
mps
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I have a used hydraulic unit for sale. PM me if interested
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:00 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rando-defranco View Post
The tensioner is the lower pully and mounting hardware behind fan. This whole assembly will rotate clockwise to loosed the belt if you use the pully cener torx socket to turn it. The idler (or deflection pully) is up closer to the PS resevoir. This is held in place with one single long normal function (lefty/loosy) bolt. (Dont break it!) This will be offset if you have a mechanical (spring) tensioner assembly, or center hole if you have the later hydraulit tensioner assembly. Or so I'm told.
Ok I'm a bit puzzled about the idler pulley. I'm considering converting my mechanical tensioner to a hydraulic one as both pulleys need replacing. There is a kit which you need to buy along with the hydraulic unit, which contains (from the pictures I've seen) an idler pully with a hole in the center. So far so good, yet why does the pic in post #9 show a hydraulic tensioner with an off-center idler pulley? Is it just a mistake?
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:35 PM   #89
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I replaced my water pump and p/s pump this week new belts too, and removed both tension-er pulleys, popped of the bearing covers and filled with fresh grease, they both run smooth now, thus saving a bit of cash. New would be better but I'm skint so if I can save on anything I will. Ha
Manual trans, so slightly different set up but same principal just re-grease em.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:28 PM   #90
locomexicano
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Thumbs Up

Remove the fan and fan shroud. The fan loosens up left to right when facing the car.



Good Stuff man. thanks
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:08 PM   #91
LTM
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Just an FYI, the Hydraulic tensioner pairs with the OFF-CENTER deflection (aka idler) pulley, not the center-hole one as mentioned in previous posts.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:39 AM   #92
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Question, is the ONLY way to get the fan out is to use the special wrench/tool?
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:27 PM   #93
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HyeWarrior, although this comes super late, it never hurts to post for future readers. There are MULTIPLE ways to get the fan off, including the 32mm wrench and pulley holder tool, or a wrench and hammer, or a hammer and long screwdriver. A simple search will reveal the gajillions of times these techniques have been mentioned. Here's a good visual for the wrench/hammer approach, which is what I typically use despite having the pulley holder tool: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm.

Last edited by jojo12; 03-05-2012 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:34 PM   #94
cool breeze
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Can't believe there are no torque specs in this write up still..
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:48 PM   #95
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I'm going to try this myself. I'll report back.
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:37 PM   #96
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Great write up used today and very successful results with the right tools, thanks.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:27 AM   #97
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OP's pics show he has a mechanical pulley but realoem pics only show hydraulic type. This is very confusing for noobs like me, I have never seen a pic of an e46 with the hydraulic tensioner installed and I ended up ordering the wrong part cause realoem told me I had a hydraulic type when I have a mechanical one. Put my vin in there site and it gave me the wrong info.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic328CSi View Post
You know im pretty sure thats the delfection pulley. You can partially see the part# of the protection cap thats still left on it, 11-28-1730.... which is the part # of the cap that goes on the delfection pulley..

#15 is the deflection pulley (offcenter bolt), #17 is the protection cap


Take a look here for part #'s to match them up.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...90&hg=11&fg=18
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:51 AM   #98
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Exclamation Changing Belts & possible Pully's in M54 2005 330xi

I know there are countless threads here that describe replacing belts, some with great photo's of the procedures. Does anyone have an absolute answer as to replacing the belts (Compressor & WP main), in an automatic T equipped car (2005 330xi), WITHOUT removing the fan assembly ? I see people write it is easy and possible, without detail, and other posts are deep into images & instructions for [manual T], with electric fan removal.
Just wondering if, with a little maneuvering belt replacement is possible, without damaging anything, w/o removing the fan ? Anyone know for sure ?
Pully replacement is the next step, and again with so much information out there, I don't see a positive answer anywhere as to the status of mechanical
or Hydro pulley in my car > (Impossible to see from the top, I tried in bright sunlight, with a big mag lite!) Anyone have hard answers please ? Dealer wanted $315 to change the belts...I thought he was kidding, I asked twice...
he wanted $70 for the serp. belt & $50 for the other. I quickly looked at another Bimmer site & said they are half the price & he got insulted... Hence, I hope to replace them this weekend, If I know what to order>
Which is the other question I almost forgot, as it relates to the tensioner.
Some postings show, Pop the dust cap, use a T50. Other sites say never do this as Torx are an issue (I can confirm that !), use a 16MM socket on the external nut, and other sites show I think a T60.. Anyone know again, with OEM components if T50 is a must or can you use a 16mm Socket on the serp section ? And the compressor ?
1000 thanks to all of you!
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