*** DIY Belt Tensioner Replacement With Pictures ***

ahh.. i dont think i've ever noticed a hydrolic cylinder, so i guess im good with just replacing the pulleys them.

thanks for all your help steve

Originally Posted by Devious1

ahh.. i dont think i've ever noticed a hydrolic cylinder, so i guess im good with just replacing the pulleys them.

thanks for all your help steve

No problem.

Just to clarify, with the non-hydrallic tennsioner, you have to buy the complete tensioner/pulley combo.

Originally Posted by steve.325i

Just to clarify, with the non-hydrallic tennsioner, you have to buy the complete tensioner/pulley combo.

As mentioned earlier, get 11-28-1-435-594 to replace the mechanical tensioner pulley. Got it, measured it, used it. It's the exact part. No need to buy the whole combo.

Originally Posted by ssm1991

As mentioned earlier, get 11-28-1-435-594 to replace the mechanical tensioner pulley. Got it, measured it, used it. It's the exact part. No need to buy the whole combo.

Very sorry. I did not read your previous post correctly. I did not mean to contradict your statement.

If you have the mechanical pulley, and you just want to replace the pulley on the Alternator tensioner and the AC tensioner without buying the whole unit, you can buy them at Autozone. Duralast Part #231133. Cost is $29.99

The AC Pulley and Alternator tensioners uses the same pulley.

They are the same as the Dayco brand ones that others have said to work. The Autozone (Duralast) brand pulley are probably made by Dayco and put in a Duralast box. They are 100% identical.

The Dayco/Duralast pulleys look exactly like the OEM ones, except they have an orange color center instead of black. The Dayco/Duralast also says INA on them, which is the same as the OEM ones.

here is the link:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...dName=Duralast

Guys,

First - please hear it again...you guys who have 'been there-done it-and posted the pics' are to be thanked endlessly. You are saving us thousands and I have the proof over and over on a variety of vehicles.

This is a 2003 325i.....
If I hear all this correctly on the tensioners and belts - I honestly believe I can change BOTH BELTS without even removing the fan/clutch assembly.(?) I have done this on other vehicles before with how you can work a belt over the fan/clutch blades (carefully) when at first glance it wouldn't look possible.

Am I also hearing that I can replace both tensioner pulleys ONLY - just by taking the belts off tension, removing the pulley center torx bolts and putting on the new Duralast pulleys p/n 231133 (for the mechanical version at least)?

If so, please let me know or if you have other questions on what I am asking - please let me know.
Again thanks a bunch.
Patrick

great pics! im gonna attemp to do this myself next week, im about to order the parts, but one thing I can't figure out is how many belts and tensioners are there to replace? is the alternator belt same as serpentine.. or these are two different belts? what about power steering belt? does that need to be replaced along with the others? i have 94k on my 2004 330ci manual. thanks for you help!

Originally Posted by sarunas4

great pics! im gonna attemp to do this myself next week, im about to order the parts, but one thing I can't figure out is how many belts and tensioners are there to replace? is the alternator belt same as serpentine.. or these are two different belts? what about power steering belt? does that need to be replaced along with the others? i have 94k on my 2004 330ci manual. thanks for you help!

There are two belts. One goes to AC compressor and the other goes to everything else (i.e. power steering, water pump, alternator). There is one tensioner pulley and one idler pulley for the main belt and one tensioner pulley for the AC belt.

Originally Posted by DBear

There are two belts. One goes to AC compressor and the other goes to everything else (i.e. power steering, water pump, alternator). There is one tensioner pulley and one idler pulley for the main belt and one tensioner pulley for the AC belt.

Thank you for your quick response!!! all clear now..

Dears after i changed the water pump and the belts, it is as if the fan is making a huge noise when accelerating as if a huge amount of air is being sucked.

please any body help me

Just a note to others doing this releasing the tension was clockwise not counterclockwise. Also, for those who have never de-tensioned a tensioner its turned just enough to release tension and then the belt is taken off with the other hand. I had a lot of difficulty getting the fan back on with the shroud over it. If anyone has some suggestions on a good way to do this that would be good.

Originally Posted by jeffmr

If anyone has some suggestions on a good way to do this that would be good.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ighlight=belts

Re: almario/termignoni, May, 06. Thumbnail #3.
Excellent write up. Only comment re possible typo error - to release tension on pulley; 16mm or 5/8 " socket must be turned CLOCKWISE. text suggested turning the nut "counterclockwise". I did so and foolishly broke the nut and have had to replace the tensioner.

to Jeffmr, post #71:getting fan back on water pump: you might try placing fan without the shroud first and to determine if you can balance the fan on water pump shaft; turn bolt counterclockwise; the balanced fan should be stable and allow the threads to grab evenly. If there is any tension, it won't thread. Once you have the feeling of balance in the fan, repositioning with the shroud in place is less difficult. This worked for me.

does anybody know the proper torque specs?

Originally Posted by bumere46

does anybody know the proper torque specs?

+1

I'm having a problem finishing up this project myself. On the accessory tensioner it uses Torx, when releasing the tension I didn't have to release a lot to get the belt off. However, now that I am putting the belt back on I'm finding I can't do it. What is happening is the Torx bit keeps slipping out of the hole. THe only way I can get it to stay in place is to use both hands and I can only hold that for a few seconds, then it pops out.

Any special technique you guys are using to get the smaller belt back on?

Wouldn't it be possible to skip the fan removal by de-tensioning from underneath the car being jacked up with the splash-guard removed. I mean couldn't you just bypass all that headache with removing the fan?

Originally Posted by termignoni

Remove 4 clips and remove cover. Close up of clips (pull pin straight up to release)









Remove to additional screws that enclose the fan blade. Facing the car on the left. Remove torx screw and unhook the two electrical connections. Facing the car on the right side, remove the pull-pin clip just like the first photo.










Remove the fan and fan shroud. The fan loosens up left to right when facing the car.




Use a 16mm or 5/8” socket wrench to release the tension on the tensioner to release the belt counter clockwise.






Remove dust cover from the top pulley and remove to access the tensioner bolts below.





Remove top and bottom tensioner bolts.








Install is the reverse. Here’s a diagram of the belt if you forgot to take a picture.






The hardest part is getting the fan back on. Be patience and remember to spin the fan right to left when putting it back on.

Enjoy and I hope this helps all..



Created by Almario

How do you get the bottom bolt off the tensioner? Since I can't see the bolt, I'm trying to do it by feel but it also feels like the pulley is in the way of the bolt. Do you have to take the tensioner pulley off by removing the center bolt with a T-50 torx bit before removing the tensioner bottom bolt?

In the parts catalog it shows mechanical or hydraulic tensioner. Will either fit or do some M54's fit one and some the other? Are they interchangeable?

Thanks, John