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Old 03-10-2007, 05:41 AM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSL View Post
That sounds about right. I measured out a few boxes a while ago and it was definitely a tight fit to keep it behind the rear speaker openings with the box only on top of the high part. I'll measure again and reevaluate doing the amp drawer under the box as opposed to over the spare tire. IIRC, my big concern with the box on the floor was more that it sat ~2" on the front of the spare tire cover, so I'd either need to notch the bottom of the box so it doesn't sit on it there or get rid of the cover anyway, in which case, I might as well build the amp rack in its place. I'll take another look at it this weekend before I start cutting anything.
I'd suggest cutting the OEM part into 2 pieces so you can still get the spare tire well cover off. That box isn't angled. You can cut the side against the back seat at an angle to save some depth. You should be able to clear the spare tire well if you do that.
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:00 PM   #202
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I don't think there's any way I will be able to get around using the floor area if I use all 3 subs. I mean I could, but the box will stick out further into the trunk than I'd like...I barely can live with how far it will stick out if I do use the floor area (less than most, but I don't really want it go past the front of the spare cover). I am really contemplating using just 2 to keep the box size down, in which case, I'd just assume toss in a pair of ported IDQ 10s. 2x D6s completely defeats the purpose of their config.

Squeezing the extra .4 ft^3 of larger space for basically the same subs with different coils has been the bane of my existence since I got them and is really why I've put off making the box for so long. I am tempted to make the box for all 3 using the D2/D4 sizes (.625ft^3 each) instead of the D6 size (.75ft^3 each). The F3 isn't very low on any of these anyway and JL's "optimum" enclosure specs all have built in gains. Dropping the size doesn't really make a huge diff (+1dB and +1-2Hz F3).

I just can't seem to decide whether to use the smaller dimensions, use only 2 of them or not use these subs at all and just pick up 2 IDQs
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:13 AM   #203
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If you really want to minimize the box size, why not go with a long throw single 10?

Maybe I am being a salesman here, but here is my $.02 on your sub problem. I had the 3 IDQ10s sealed on 1000 watts and they sounded good. I had an RE XXX 12 sealed and ported on 2000 watts which not only a hell of a lot louder but sounded better.

I now have this Fi Q12. You have to break them in and it takes about 30 days of wangin' on it. But these subs sound awesome. A notch above the IDQs as far as quick transient response, smooth but distinct transitions between different notes, and a pretty flat response in a sealed box. Unless you demand hell-raising levels of bass, 1 10 in a sealed box with 800+ watts will be more than enough. Not only that, but it should alleviate some of your space issues.

You can also look at IDmax and W7 but their mounting depths are quite deep. Here is a small comparison.

Fi Q10 - 6.5"
IDMax 10 - 7.625"
W7 - 8"
W3V2 - 6"

With your desired space restrictions, it just makes more sense to go with a single high output driver over multiple drivers. With an angled box, you're bottom depth will be minimized.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSL View Post
I don't think there's any way I will be able to get around using the floor area if I use all 3 subs. I mean I could, but the box will stick out further into the trunk than I'd like...I barely can live with how far it will stick out if I do use the floor area (less than most, but I don't really want it go past the front of the spare cover). I am really contemplating using just 2 to keep the box size down, in which case, I'd just assume toss in a pair of ported IDQ 10s. 2x D6s completely defeats the purpose of their config.

Squeezing the extra .4 ft^3 of larger space for basically the same subs with different coils has been the bane of my existence since I got them and is really why I've put off making the box for so long. I am tempted to make the box for all 3 using the D2/D4 sizes (.625ft^3 each) instead of the D6 size (.75ft^3 each). The F3 isn't very low on any of these anyway and JL's "optimum" enclosure specs all have built in gains. Dropping the size doesn't really make a huge diff (+1dB and +1-2Hz F3).

I just can't seem to decide whether to use the smaller dimensions, use only 2 of them or not use these subs at all and just pick up 2 IDQs
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Old 03-11-2007, 02:38 PM   #204
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^He's right if you are really concerned about space... would have to be a really high output 10 though. JL 10w3v2 wouldn't cut it though.
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Old 03-11-2007, 04:12 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976
With your desired space restrictions, it just makes more sense to go with a single high output driver over multiple drivers. With an angled box, you're bottom depth will be minimized.
I wish I could audition an Fi the way lots of people talk about them. Space isn't so tight that I'd need to rely on one heavy duty sub and with the deeper mounting depths, they would actually come deeper into the trunk than the box I have in mind, even moreso if I faced the sub sideways.

I am not looking for SPL perse, but it would be nice to just crank it once in a while. I don't think a single 10 is going to cut it for me, even a high output 10. 2 subs is an easy way to double the output without having to make the box deeper because there is plenty of width to work with.

The way I have it figured, I can get 2.0 cu.ft. net without bringing the box past the front of the spare cover and that is just fine by me. The only question is what will be the best combo that fits in that space. All 3 subs would fit, but at .667cu.ft. each. FYI, on the chart below, the optimum size (.75 cu.ft) lands somewhere between the yellow and green...closer to the yellow.

2 ported IDQs still seem like the best alternative. It wouldn't give up much output because it's ported and it will naturally have a lot more low end extension.

Green - 10W3v2-D6 in 1 cu.ft.
Yellow - 10W3v2-D6 in .667 cu.ft. (can use all 3 at this size)
Grey - IDQ 10v2 in 1 cu.ft. (ported, tuned to 30Hz)

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Old 03-12-2007, 11:31 AM   #206
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The 30 hz tune for the IDQ is pretty low. I suspect that you'll need a box on the larger side of ID's spec. You'll have a somewhat large/long port which will also take up volume. In a dual IDQ10 ported, you'll probably need over 2.5 cu ft gross volume to account for port and sub displacement.

But from your description, I'd do the first choice. The 3 W3s will get loud but you might not get a flat response with a sharper rolloff at the Fs of the enclosure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSL View Post
I wish I could audition an Fi the way lots of people talk about them. Space isn't so tight that I'd need to rely on one heavy duty sub and with the deeper mounting depths, they would actually come deeper into the trunk than the box I have in mind, even moreso if I faced the sub sideways.

I am not looking for SPL perse, but it would be nice to just crank it once in a while. I don't think a single 10 is going to cut it for me, even a high output 10. 2 subs is an easy way to double the output without having to make the box deeper because there is plenty of width to work with.

The way I have it figured, I can get 2.0 cu.ft. net without bringing the box past the front of the spare cover and that is just fine by me. The only question is what will be the best combo that fits in that space. All 3 subs would fit, but at .667cu.ft. each. FYI, on the chart below, the optimum size (.75 cu.ft) lands somewhere between the yellow and green...closer to the yellow.

2 ported IDQs still seem like the best alternative. It wouldn't give up much output because it's ported and it will naturally have a lot more low end extension.

Green - 10W3v2-D6 in 1 cu.ft.
Yellow - 10W3v2-D6 in .667 cu.ft. (can use all 3 at this size)
Grey - IDQ 10v2 in 1 cu.ft. (ported, tuned to 30Hz)

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Old 03-12-2007, 04:11 PM   #207
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1 cuft each is on the large size of ID's specs. .75 cuft tuned to 34Hz is their small ported box. As for the ports, I was thinking of making them external, maybe even finding a way to plug them right into the rear speaker openings, but where the box will sit would make that a pain.

I planned on 5/8" MDF and ended up with 3/4" because that is all they had. I was really tempted to use 1/2" instead to save space, but I've never been brave enough to use wood that thin on a sub box. Unless I bring it out another 1-1.5", actual net volume (not including the subs) will be closer to 1.9 cuft, so option 1 is probably the best idea.

This was the box plan, but if I opt for just 2 subs, I don't even really need to bother with the sides to squeeze every last bit of space or fit 3 across. For that matter, I probably won't even end up using these subs. I guess I'll be on the lookout for new subs and will probably end up with an even smaller box in the 1.25-1.50 cuft net range.

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Old 03-12-2007, 04:13 PM   #208
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two idq15's IB and all your problems will go away - a total of 8" of depth when installed
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:37 PM   #209
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Haha, that sure would take care of it, but I like sealed enclosures. 2 different 10s will probably end up even being even much smaller than what 2 of these need. Maybe it's time I reconsidered a single 12? Damn, this substage will never get done at this rate.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:38 PM   #210
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:51 PM   #211
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:05 AM   #212
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I would advise against 5/8" MDF. You'll need to brace it and then you're probably right where you started out as far as internal volume and space.

Here's a suggestion.

First, make a FG copy of the spare tire well or just buy another OEM part. Make a cut across the top part. Connect the 2 pieces with a piano hinge. The you can lift up the bottom port and slide the whole cover out from under the box.

Then just make another carpeted panel or cut the OEM carpet to fit with the box installed over the spare tire well cover.

Here's a link to some good info on Fi. Trust me, you won't be disappointed if you go with a Q!

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f...p?showforum=51
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:08 PM   #213
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I assume you mean copy the cover, but you said well That's not a bad idea. If it came down to that, I'd probably cut it and leave a board under the box with a routed lip to hold the front of the new shorter cover instead of hinging it. If I can keep it 2" or less over the cover to have enough space to run all 3, I'll go ahead and do that, otherwise I'll start looking into only 2 of something else that requires an even smaller sealed box. Thanks for the link BTW.

What is that site with the OEM P/Ns+prices so I can check out the spare cover?
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:14 PM   #214
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realoem.com
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:30 PM   #215
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LOL, why couldn't I remember that URL? $75-80 for the spare cover...I think I can live with hacking it up and having to replace it later.
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:13 AM   #216
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I was trying to fit all 3 of my subs with still having a spare... and almost did it, but my amps kicked me in the balls. 3 boxes, 2 12" .66 ft^3, and 1 15" 1.5ft^3. I might still be able to get a donut under there, but we'll see how my amp rack goes. I doubt it though. My amps are just huge. I could raise the floor of the trunk but I don't want to do that. Oh well that's why I have towing on my insurance right? I have pics and will post a progress thread sometime. This install has been eating up most of my time, much to my wife's dismay.
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Old 03-14-2007, 04:35 AM   #217
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I'd pick one or the other (2 12s or 1 15), but yeah, that's a lot to fit in the trunk.

If I bring the box out 2" over the front of the spare tire cover, that will get me 2.26 cuft net (not including the subs). I am thinking that I don't want to raise the floor for amps either anymore, so it's either on a rack under the deck or on the front of the box behind the seats, which will push it back even further

All I know is I am building a box this weekend dammit. I'll probably need to get one practice box out the way anyway since I haven't built on in like 10 years All 3 might even be more subs than I really want, but even if I only end up using it for a couple days/weeks, there's only one way to find out and I am tired of dancing around it. I guess I should buy an amp for the subs, eh? Haha.
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Old 03-14-2007, 04:51 AM   #218
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I might have asked already but what part of TX are you at?

I swapped out the full size and went with a mini spare. Then you can sink an amp rack down between the frame rails enough to have the top of the amps even with the spare tire well cover. The only problem is that you have to drill a hole through the frame rail on each side to run the power wires and probably another one for the signal and speakers. I use a large quick disconnect from this website:

www.powerwerx.com

Basically, I disconnect the RCAs, the power cable and unscrew some leads from a barrier strip.

I will take another 15-30 minutes to get at the spare...but I can get at it nonetheless.

How big are your amps?
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:23 AM   #219
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How big are your amps?
Mine or his? Mine are ridiculously large. 2 of them are 16"x10" and the other is a bit smaller. I gave up on a spare... even a mini spare
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Old 03-14-2007, 12:57 PM   #220
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