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Motorsports & Track Forum
From Auto-X to Trackday to Racing and Professional Motorsports this is the place to discuss making BMWs fast

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Old 05-24-2007, 01:21 PM   #61
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There are torque wrenches designed to be used in either direction, and they're more accurate than the click wrenches if you're competent. Good 'ol cheapo, never have to be calibrated, bar and pointer gauges are the best bet for something like that.
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:24 PM   #62
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whats that torque plate for adam>???
is it for the machine work on the block to turn out perfect???
thanks
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:56 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
There are torque wrenches designed to be used in either direction, and they're more accurate than the click wrenches if you're competent. Good 'ol cheapo, never have to be calibrated, bar and pointer gauges are the best bet for something like that.
I spent some time playing with a Snap On digital torque wrench recently...it takes some getting used to but it does the trick. In this case though it's a grade 8 fastener going into a steel shaft, 19 ft/lbs is probably a pretty safe # that has a lot of margin of error.

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Originally Posted by icosaca View Post
whats that torque plate for adam>???
is it for the machine work on the block to turn out perfect???
thanks
jorge saca
Torque plates are used to similate the stresses caused by the head studs when the head is installed. This varies from block to block, but the result is often a more perfect cylinder bore after machining. I don't know if there is any conclusive evidence that the M54 Block needs this, but I got it to cover the bases anyway.
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:34 PM   #64
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how much was that???
basically it is used when machining the block to make it perfect???
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:31 AM   #65
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Torque plates are pretty low in production. They can be pretty expensive, especially for something that you won't use very often (hopefully).

The torque plate should put your cylinders in the exact position they will be in when the engine is assembled, making boring/honing very precise. It's really going the extra mile for the DIY engine builder. Very impressive.

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how much was that???
basically it is used when machining the block to make it perfect???
jorge saca
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:06 PM   #66
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i thought it be going the extra mile.........that extra mile adam usually takes......
LOL......
i hope i can get my block bored correctly......

adam...
what diff are you getting??? ive been thinking which one should i go with...
any suggestions???
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Old 05-25-2007, 08:06 PM   #67
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I might have to hit him up to see if I can rent it from him some day
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Old 05-26-2007, 01:03 AM   #68
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I might have to hit him up to see if I can rent it from him some day
what do you guys think of the stress in the threads on the block by putting studs in just for doing this???
i really dont think its necesarry...
what do you think????

by the way... AGGIEE46.... whats your name man????

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Old 06-11-2007, 05:29 PM   #69
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any updates on this guys......
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:46 PM   #70
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Jorge,

I have a stock 2.93 and a 3.46 LSD right now, looking at getting another custom LSD from Diffsonline with either 3.91 or 4.10 gears. I won't decide on the ratio until after I see the power band of the new engine.

Do NOT torque your new head studs into the block! They are designed to be inserted finger tight, with the actual clamping force provided by the nuts against the head. If you torque the head studs into the block, you will be placing the threads on the block under too much stress...they will strip out with the head torqued down to spec. To expand on this, the threads on the block will have "X" force applied to them with JUST the stud installed. When you start torquing down the head, you will be adding more force to "X". This is the reason why most people have problems with studs pulling out in general...improper installation.

I'm not likely to "rent" or "lend" out the torque plate unless you are local to me. The shipping hassle just isn't worth it. $375 is what I paid for mine.

HP is a function of torque, and you aren't going to see much more than 230-240 rwtq out of a 3.0 liter engine. If you want to make 400 hp N/A with this engine, be prepared to spin the internals well over 8000 RPM with a camshaft that hates life under 5000 RPM. A 400 hp N/A M54B30 engine isn't going to live long, and it certainly won't be happy on the street.
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Old 06-16-2007, 10:58 AM   #71
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Quote:
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I'm not likely to "rent" or "lend" out the torque plate unless you are local to me. The shipping hassle just isn't worth it. $375 is what I paid for mine.
Not bad, I was expecting the price to be higher. I'll definitely invest in one when I do mine.

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HP is a function of torque, and you aren't going to see much more than 230-240 rwtq out of a 3.0 liter engine. If you want to make 400 hp N/A with this engine, be prepared to spin the internals well over 8000 RPM with a camshaft that hates life under 5000 RPM. A 400 hp N/A M54B30 engine isn't going to live long, and it certainly won't be happy on the street.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:48 PM   #72
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Do NOT torque your new head studs into the block! They are designed to be inserted finger tight, with the actual clamping force provided by the nuts against the head. If you torque the head studs into the block, you will be placing the threads on the block under too much stress...they will strip out with the head torqued down to spec. To expand on this, the threads on the block will have "X" force applied to them with JUST the stud installed. When you start torquing down the head, you will be adding more force to "X". This is the reason why most people have problems with studs pulling out in general...improper installation.
The same applies for header studs I assume?
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:02 AM   #73
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ALL studs.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:56 AM   #74
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adam, thanks for the STUD info....
i had not really read the instructions... but it explains clearly how toi install them......
i am not trying to get 400whp NA.... im keeping my 10.5psi from the rotrex blower.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:59 AM   #75
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where did you get a stock 2.93, and 3.46 LSD diff out off???
i at the moment have an open 3.46, and i am thinking about getting a 3.64LSD....
im still undecided if i should do the whole M3 rear and then get stock m3 diffs though....
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:30 AM   #76
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where did you get a stock 2.93, and 3.46 LSD diff out off???
i at the moment have an open 3.46, and i am thinking about getting a 3.64LSD....
im still undecided if i should do the whole M3 rear and then get stock m3 diffs though....
jorge saca
2.93 was stock when I bought the car.

3.46 LSD I purchased from Diffsonline.

From a cost perspective, getting a new 3.46 built is the easiest. The M3 subframe and diff will need a special driveshaft to mate with your transmission. (The M3 Transmission is longer, so it has a shorter driveshaft attached to it)

Unless you do a LOT of hard cornering under acceleration, the largest benifit to running an LSD is missed.
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Old 06-21-2007, 02:53 PM   #77
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You can tell in the disassembly pictures that the engine was worked hard - it's actually clean inside.
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:53 PM   #78
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You can tell in the disassembly pictures that the engine was worked hard - it's actually clean inside.
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Old 06-21-2007, 11:19 PM   #79
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"Officer, I just got the car at BMW Greensboro and look what they're done to my Beemer!!" he whines.
"You makes me sick" officer responds, "So worried about your BMW; but don't even notice your left arm is missing?"
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:18 PM   #80
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2.93 was stock when I bought the car.

3.46 LSD I purchased from Diffsonline.

From a cost perspective, getting a new 3.46 built is the easiest. The M3 subframe and diff will need a special driveshaft to mate with your transmission. (The M3 Transmission is longer, so it has a shorter driveshaft attached to it)

Unless you do a LOT of hard cornering under acceleration, the largest benifit to running an LSD is missed.
for some of us use it for donouts/drifting and having fun



anymore updates?
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