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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-11-2007, 01:33 PM   #61
BreakMyWallet
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its still not workin!

maybe its cus i shortened the prongs on the battery but it would fit with it.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:49 PM   #62
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i just realized that is the problem. damnit. lol
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:51 PM   #63
colinschick
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i did everything up to the last step, including reprogramming the key.... although i did it only before i glued everything back together, and i just used the key, and the circut board to do it. now my lock and truck will work, but not unlock??? does that have anything to do with the sides of the key not together?? could there be a problem in the sensor/control in the car that is responsible for unlocking the car?? does anyone have any ideas? thanks.
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:18 AM   #64
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Anyone got an extra key fob they don't want
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Old 01-24-2008, 10:41 PM   #65
LO187KO
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Thanks For Saving Me 300 Bucks

it worked great, if it wasnt for your posting i would have spent 300 bucks for nothing. soldering iron from radio shack $7 bucks, battery from mouser $4.73, research on web for recoding key $0, locking and unlocking my car with my remote key $$priceless$$. it feels great to have a working key.....
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:42 PM   #66
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Man how did you guys manage to slice it open with a blade without damaging the circuit board
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:22 PM   #67
9doorz
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This was awsome DIY...it work great for me I replaced my battery and now both my keys work.... i order my battery from these guys...cheaper shipping to canada

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l?name=P081-ND
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:34 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwsmurf View Post
Man how did you guys manage to slice it open with a blade without damaging the circuit board
start at the part where the key can attach to a key chain...there are no circuit there...Once you get through that you can have an idea how much plastic and how deep you need to go around the key
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:35 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by BreakMyWallet View Post
its still not workin!

maybe its cus i shortened the prongs on the battery but it would fit with it.
i also shortened the prongs on the battery they are to long. Just make sure you solder it correct.
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:45 AM   #70
///Rogu3
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Woohoo!!! Remote works again after almost 1-1/2 years...I couldn't bring myself to pay that much money for a key either! But for $12 and some elbow grease...what the heck!

I ordered the battery from www.mouser.com and it came in the next day...apparently they are based in Texas not too far from Houston. The whole job took me 45 minutes to complete including super glue curing time.

I recommend wearing a pair of fitted Mechanic gloves and a few folded shop towels to protect your hands from the blade. I used a brand new standard blade to ensure that the cuts could be made easily and cleanly.

One thing to keep in mind is that when you start cutting at the far end of the key, you need to cut past the voided space into the next wall of the key...I know this may be obvious to some but it took me a few minutes to realize this



Instead of a chisel, I used a large toe nail clipper to remove old solder to free up the battery. The prongs on the new battery are longer but it didn't really hinder the installation process too much. On the new battery that I received, I couldn't make the negative prong fit without removing it completely from the battery...it didn't seem to affect anything for me since I can clearly see that it still made contact with the battery once I completed the soldering process.

I used Scotch Super Glue Gel since I wanted a little more time to line everything up before the bonding process completed. I've used this product before and it holds up extremely well under daily use.

Once the super glue cured, I followed the programming instructions from an earlier post and it worked on the very first try!


Mad Props to the OP...and everyone else for sharing!
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Old 03-15-2008, 04:22 AM   #71
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Did any of you guys measure the voltage on your old battery? Mine still had 3+ volts.
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Old 03-24-2008, 08:59 PM   #72
thfrazer
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Hello Everyone!

If anyone is still reading this thread please give me your thoughts on my key and lock issue with my 2000 323i:

1) My remote will lock/unlock the door locks only on an intermittent basis. I have reinitialized them via the instructions elsewhere on this forum and they do what they are supposed to do during the reinitialization, but shortly revert back to their intermittent ways.

2) The trunk unlock function works all the time and from a fair distance away.

3) The central unlock button inside the car works even less often than the key remote.

Because the central unlock button doesn't work very often I believe the remote battery is not the problem. What do you think?

It is my understanding that the electrical relays for the locking system are behind the glove box. Is that true? And if so can I replace the relays? And if that is possible where can I get them?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts and input on this issue.

Tom
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:04 AM   #73
YMMV
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How is the battery being charged?

I cut open the key and noticed that there is no contact between the key and the rest of the circuit board. How is the battery being charged when inserted in the ignition?

Last edited by YMMV; 04-14-2008 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:01 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by YMMV View Post
I cut open the key and noticed that there is no contact between the key and the rest of the circuit board. How is the battery being charged when inserted in the ignition?
i think the technology used to charge the battery is based on the principle of magnetic inductive power transfer. Also, used in products like rechargeable electric toothbrushes. therfore, if you use your wireless toothbrush docking station you can recharge the battery by just placing on top of the charging prong on the docking station.
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Old 04-15-2008, 01:20 PM   #75
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Thanks for pointing that out. i see that this type of contactless system is suited to a multitude of difficult environments including water, dust or through concrete.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:54 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geno68 View Post
Jason77,
I am on mouser.com looking for a battery and I get two batteries for VL2020.

1. VL Lithium Coin Cell Batteries 3V 20mAH 2 PIN VERT
2. VL Lithium Coin Cell Batteries 3V 20mAH 2 PIN HORZ

Which one do I need?
I just ordered and received the HORZ, and it's the wrong one!
the prongs are 180 degrees apart like inposts #1 and again in #3.

you need the vert (like attached pic) with prongs closer together.

http://www.suzushoweb.com/s_img/43a2544b26de1.jpg

i will try to use the horz and make it work. which mean unsoldering the tabs of the battery. more to follow...
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Last edited by phatm3; 05-01-2008 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:41 PM   #77
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is the procedure the same for the older keys?
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Old 05-02-2008, 03:32 PM   #78
antzcrashing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatm3 View Post
I just ordered and received the HORZ, and it's the wrong one!
the prongs are 180 degrees apart like inposts #1 and again in #3.

you need the vert (like attached pic) with prongs closer together.

http://www.suzushoweb.com/s_img/43a2544b26de1.jpg

i will try to use the horz and make it work. which mean unsoldering the tabs of the battery. more to follow...
thanks i was wondering this


Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Rogu3 View Post
Woohoo!!! Remote works again after almost 1-1/2 years...I couldn't bring myself to pay that much money for a key either! But for $12 and some elbow grease...what the heck!

I ordered the battery from www.mouser.com and it came in the next day...apparently they are based in Texas not too far from Houston. The whole job took me 45 minutes to complete including super glue curing time.

I recommend wearing a pair of fitted Mechanic gloves and a few folded shop towels to protect your hands from the blade. I used a brand new standard blade to ensure that the cuts could be made easily and cleanly.

One thing to keep in mind is that when you start cutting at the far end of the key, you need to cut past the voided space into the next wall of the key...I know this may be obvious to some but it took me a few minutes to realize this



Instead of a chisel, I used a large toe nail clipper to remove old solder to free up the battery. The prongs on the new battery are longer but it didn't really hinder the installation process too much. On the new battery that I received, I couldn't make the negative prong fit without removing it completely from the battery...it didn't seem to affect anything for me since I can clearly see that it still made contact with the battery once I completed the soldering process.

I used Scotch Super Glue Gel since I wanted a little more time to line everything up before the bonding process completed. I've used this product before and it holds up extremely well under daily use.

Once the super glue cured, I followed the programming instructions from an earlier post and it worked on the very first try!


Mad Props to the OP...and everyone else for sharing!
Thanks this will be easier now
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Old 05-06-2008, 10:55 PM   #79
ZZdark
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So regarding the battery on mouser, http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....user_Wildcards

do we have a definitive answer on whether to buy the 1st one with the VC or the 2nd one with the HF?

Thanks
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Old 05-07-2008, 06:25 AM   #80
antzcrashing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZdark View Post
So regarding the battery on mouser, http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....user_Wildcards

do we have a definitive answer on whether to buy the 1st one with the VC or the 2nd one with the HF?

Thanks
The Vert is the one to buy (VC)
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