Mechanics please help CEL is on - Pulled the codes - Any ideas on what I need to fix?

hahaha - if I was not so involved with the passion for fixing this headache, I probably would sell it, but for now I enjoy learning the mechanics involved with the car.

Ill keep you posted if and when I ever find the problem. I recently replaced the crank case control valve and hoses, man was that a B*&%*. I had to undo the manifold and hang it via bungy cords from the hood. Going into it was a mess and scary with all the plugs and hoses and wiring. Putting it back together wasnt too bad though. Plus the valve was **** and full of broken diaphram pieces.

Anyways if anyone has any advice, please do share.. I will be cleaning the MAF today and hoping for the best. How do you test the MAF to see if it is working properly? Is there something I can look at measurement wise on the computer or maybe voltage that I can test? Thanks again everyone

Did this just occur after replacment of the vent vavle? or was this why the valve was replaced?

To test the Maf use a volumetric efficiency read you grams per sec flow from a scan tool you should be 85-90% efficient when you do your calculation if you are not your maf is reading wrong. Here is a link to a free calcualtor
http://www.smp-training.com/Pages/ptsframeset.html
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awesome!! Thank you Seth, I will definately look into this! Regarding the issue I am having, it was there before changed out the crank case valve. I was hopeful that after changing the valve that everything would return to normal, but nadda.

bump to Seth or any other Mechanic....Thanks

I would defiantly check the maf I misread you original post i though all this occurred after replacement of your vents valve, that's why I was so adamant that you had a vacuum leak.

Seth - Well I changed out the MAF with a brand new one and still the same thing. The original MAF is still within spec and good. So back to the store with the new one. Any other ideas? I am running thin on DIY's left to try and troubleshoot. Could it be the evap canister or fuel pump or anything related to that area. I do hear a hissing sound from the back area near the evap canister location when the car is running. Plus all of this did start to occur after the dealership fixed my subframe for free. Any other ideas at all? Thanks again for your time and advice

bump - mechanics

My car is now having cold start issues, where it will start but not stay on or idle. If I leave the car alone for about 15 minutes after trying to start it a few times, it will start up and stay idle. Could this be a fuel pump or evap issue? All of this started after the Dealership fixed my subframe and removed/reinstalled the evap/fuel lines from under the back of the car. I even noticed that they wiped the black coating off of one of the hoses from the rear of the car to the mid section, exposing the blue color of the original plastic. Why they did this, I dont know. Could this be the culprit? Is there suppose to be a hissing sound coming from the rear passenger side of the car when the car is on? Thanks again for the information.

**Please help Mechanics***

Bearing01 - I found this reply on a post I was researching and it might just be what I am looking for. I was wonding if this could cause the problems I am seeing though. Any words of advice? Thank you

(((As fuel expands it gains pressure. Also the extra fuel not required for pressure in the fuel rail is returned to the tank. The return fuel is warm and will also create fumes in the tank. The car's emissions system has an EVAP system whereby fumes from the gas tank are stored in a charcoal canister. Periodically (after the car warms up) there is a valve that is electronically controlled to release the stored fumes into the throttle body for burning. If your gas cap is lose these fumes are lost and air is getting into your throttle, which is diluting your Air/Fuel mixture. That's why you were losing power. Probably not noticable when crusing considering alot if air/fuel is being sucked in at high rpm's compared to just sitting and idling.))))

YAY!! I fixed it! The issue was a broken hose nipple connected to the solenoid device that is connected to the evap charcoal canister. I just JB welded the nipple back on for now as a bandaid and what do you know, the engine light disappeared along with all of the other errors and problems. Awesome============>

Thanks good to hear, Keep us DIY'ers proud

Originally Posted by blossom24

YAY!! I fixed it! The issue was a broken hose nipple connected to the solenoid device that is connected to the evap charcoal canister. I just JB welded the nipple back on for now as a bandaid and what do you know, the engine light disappeared along with all of the other errors and problems. Awesome============>

SO glad you fixed it!!!! Congrats and thanks for keeping us posted!!

Hey so THERE was a vaccum leak!! Thats what I though it sounded like!! LOL good find!

P1250...i get this code every other week when I run the fuel very low on my long commute. i reset it and it goes away.

i also get the P1477 code every 500 miles. i am going to change the gas cap first and then look at the check valve??

Regarding the Idle issues....is your IAC/ICV valve old? Try yanking it out and cleaning it up. I bet that helps!

Thanks blossom24, I've had these codes (p1477 and p1189) come up after I replaced my CCV valve. i went over my installation several times checking for a vacuum leak. I didn't think to look at the charcoal canister on the other side of the engine (I replaced all the rubber connectors that hold it in place) I had to disconnect the hose leading to the solenoid you mentioned. I inspected it and tightened the hose clamps. problem fixed!

ERROR CODE P1477 - Leakage Diagnostic Pump Reed Switch Did Not Open

1) Locate the leakage diagnosis pump, attached to the carbon canister under a black plastic cover between the fuel tank and the spare tire well, under the car.

2) Check for power to the pump on a red/white wire - battery voltage with car running from fuse 3 in the engine fuse carrier in the electronics box in the engine compartment.

3) Check for power on the control wire, brown/blue going to the Motronic control unit

4) Check the signal wire, black/green. When the control wire is grounded, the signal wire should show battery voltage out of the switch inside the pump.

5) Check the signal wire has continuity to pin 34 of the Montonic control unit and that the control wire has continuity to pin 30.

6) On the small vaccuum hose to the leakage diagnosis pump, check for intake manifold vaccuum with the car running.

Four E46's had this same error code.

*3 E46's had the Leak Detection Pump (LDP) Vaccuum Hose Repaired (in other words the vaccuum hose was loose or broken at the intake manifold)
*1 E46 had the intake manifold vaccuum line replaced

I got this info directly from a BMW mechanic so if you ask any questions i probably wont know the answer....!

Originally Posted by blossom24

YAY!! I fixed it! The issue was a broken hose nipple connected to the solenoid device that is connected to the evap charcoal canister. I just JB welded the nipple back on for now as a bandaid and what do you know, the engine light disappeared along with all of the other errors and problems. Awesome============>

Can you post a picture of where you performed the fix?

Originally Posted by dino71

Can you post a picture of where you performed the fix?

He said that almost 6 years ago.

You have made this thread undead. Way to go. Now we gotta find a stake to pound through its heart.

idle control valve , crank case vent?