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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 03-28-2007, 02:04 PM   #21
deletedpenguin
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Any idea how long brake pads last under normal driving conditions?
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by deletedpenguin View Post
Any idea how long brake pads last under normal driving conditions?
Who here is normal?

I really have no idea but I'd expect there to be a tremendous amount of variation based on driving habits, typical terrain and traffic patterns, transmission type, normal load, etc. etc. etc. and that's just for the OEM pads. Change pad types and you'll get even more variation.

The cynical answer though, is that OEM pads and rotors are designed to last 1 mile past the expiration of the service plan.
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Old 03-28-2007, 03:29 PM   #23
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Regarding the machining of the "M" rotors - here's some additional info I found on why machiing the M floating "composite" rotors would be unlikely to result in success -
Quote:
As the vehicles with composite rotors accumulated mileage and came out of warranty, the aftermarket discovered that composite rotors required some special service procedures. Because the stamped steel center hat is not as thick nor or rigid as that in a one-piece casting, the center hat on a composite rotor must be fully supported with special adapters or oversized bell caps when the rotor is resurfaced on a brake lathe. The other alternative is to bolt the rotor to the hub (with the lug nuts reversed to provide better support and to prevent deforming the center hat) and to then resurface the rotor with an on-car lathe.

If a composite rotor is not supported properly, it can wobble and flex creating runout and surface finish problems. Both sides of the center hat must also be clean and rust-free for the rotor to turn true.
From - http://www.aa1car.com/library/rotors1c.htm

As for the non-floating/non-composite M rotors, I can't think of any design difference from the regular rotors that would make them non-machinable. However, it is possible the the direction not to do it is rooted in practical concerns. For example, it is safer to say "don't machine any M rotors" than to say "machine some M rotors but not others." From a liability standpoint, it would be better only rely on some anomynous tech knowing whether or not he's working on a M car than what specific rotor type he is looking at.

Secondly, it is likely that the M cars use a different brake pad specification with a higher expected rotor wear rate than the other cars. If this wear rate is expected take the rotor beyond the minimum thickiness within one set of pads, then there is probably not enough material to spare to make machining a safe option.
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:36 PM   #24
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Thank you for this great post.

Just replaced the pads and Rotors. Probably could have let the Rotors go.

But I don't mess around with three things :

Brakes

Tires &

Married women

(who need brakes & Tires )
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:10 PM   #25
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But I don't mess around with three things :

Brakes

Tires &

Married women

(who need brakes & Tires )
Sounds like a fairly wise policy, especially considering that problems with the third one can sometimes result in problems with the first two.
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:23 AM   #26
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Happy reading, this thread explains why I don't beleive in turning any rotor

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=Brake+Rotors
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Old 03-29-2007, 09:29 AM   #27
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Happy reading, this thread explains why I don't beleive in turning any rotor

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=Brake+Rotors
There is some good info in that thread, it's just you have to wade though a lot of acrimony to get there.

Quick summary -
* new rotors will work better than old rotors
* you can machine your non-M rotors, but it's very unlikely to be worth the trouble
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:30 PM   #28
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Just to consolidate info, here's the E46 M3 rotor sizes -
M3 - 325x28 front, 328x20 rear
M3 optional drilled (ZCP) - 345x28 front, 328x20rear

I believe the minimum thickness would then be 26.4mm and 18.4mm, but it would be nice if someone could confirm this.
confirmed.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:06 PM   #29
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confirmed.
that was quick...i mean only 2 years
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:56 AM   #30
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so, for me to upgrade to 330 brakes i will need 330 calipers, rotors and brackets all around?

but if i only want 328 brakes (slightly bigger) all i need are rotors?

Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:21 AM   #31
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so, for me to upgrade to 330 brakes i will need 330 calipers, rotors and brackets all around?

but if i only want 328 brakes (slightly bigger) all i need are rotors?

Thanks!
for the fronts you'd need 330 calipers, carriers(aka brackets), rotors and pads. the rears are VERY hard to swap because of the emergency brake and most consider it way too much work. not a plug n play swap.


if you want 328 brakes (which btw are what the 325 got/same size) you need the front carrier(bracket) and rotors. for the rears i believe it's just the rotors
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:33 PM   #32
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I listed the 330 rotor minimum thickness as deduced since, my version of the TIS predates the introduction of the 330 and does not have that info. The deduction is that they use the same designed rotor wear rate. IF you can confirm it, that would be helpful.
I can confirm that for you, just had the stock rear rotors off my 330i and stamped on the bell is the minimum thickness figure: 20.4mm.

Very good thread. Why isn't this thread stickied? EDIT: And moved to the brake forum
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:27 PM   #33
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Brakes

I have an 05 325xi. Thinking about going to bigger brakes in the front. Currently the rotors run out at 11.8". Can 2005 m3 rotors measuring at 345 mm be used on this car, with the "m" calipers and brackets?
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