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Old 04-13-2007, 07:06 PM   #61
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http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...54#post5854654
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:38 PM   #62
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The balancer is bolted on the front of the crankshaft. They can fail and not wobble. Mine was even rotated 20deg. Usually, if you just toodle around on the street, they are OK. When I get to it, I'll post a pic of a bad one and a good one.
please do
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:58 PM   #63
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=11&fg=18

Is part # 1, the harmonic balancer?
How hard is it to replace? Is it a DIY or a dealer level job?
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:20 AM   #64
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=11&fg=18

Is part # 1, the harmonic balancer?
How hard is it to replace? Is it a DIY or a dealer level job?
bump
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Old 04-15-2007, 11:16 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Limited_Slip View Post
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=11&fg=18

Is part # 1, the harmonic balancer?
How hard is it to replace? Is it a DIY or a dealer level job?
Take the plastic undertray off from under the engine. Then you need to removed the A/C compressor belt, and main accessory belt. The radiator fan needs to be removed, which will give you access to the crank pulley.

The bolt that holds that pulley on is torqued to 300 ft/lbs. (It needs a 22mm socket) You need a really big breaker bar to get it off, and also the flywheel needs to be locked into position from the back of the engine with a special pin. After that, hit the pulley a couple of times with a dead blow hammer and it should come off. (The woodruf key will stay on the crank)

If this sounds like a bit much, you should take it to a shop.
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:54 PM   #66
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if I have an automatic, do I still need to lock the flywheel with that special pin? if I put my tranny in "park" shouldn't that prevent the fly wheel from spinning?
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:40 AM   #67
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Following your logic, you should not be able to start the car with the transmission in "park".

Ok...I'll be nice.

If this was a manual transmission, you could indeed put the parking brake on with the transmision in gear to achieve the desired result as well.

I haven't ever worked on an auto E46, but the flexplate should have the same hole in it to lock it in place with a pin.
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:58 PM   #68
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BMWStephen. I have a 330Xi. Before that I had a 325xi. both with around 50k miles when i got them and both had the exact same issue. After the car had warmed up, if i came to a stop light. The car would appear to idle normally while in D and with the brake pedal depresed. Then suddenly the RPM needle would drop about 100-200RPMs and the car would shudder, and the needle would go back up and the car would start idling normally. This keeps happening continuously. the car is fine for less than a minute..then the needle drops again and goes back to normal in less than a sec. Sometimes it tries to stay low but then goes back up if i move the car a bit. This is a 330Xi btw.

Now I had taken it in to the dealer previously for this issue, and the response was, there are no codes in the ECU so we cant really say there is a problem. They raised the RPM by about 100 and left it at that.. so my car started idling at a higher RPM but the problem did not go away. I went there again for my 60k inspection and told them I had some excess vibration issues from the front end after going over potholes etc, and they replaced both the front half shafts. Even though an Indy shop I usually go to for oil changes in between the recommended intervals said everythings in A-1 condition.

SO sadly, even after replacing the front half shafts, the problem remained

Now, I have noticed that this happens much much more frequently if I have my heater or the AC ON with the car warmed up. It DOES happen with both off but very rarely. mostly its when the AC or Heater is on.

Its the same frickin dancing needle problem that a lot of other cars are infected with and makes me wonder how the hell does BMW not come up with a fix or a TSB or recall or something for it.
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:11 PM   #69
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Following your logic, you should not be able to start the car with the transmission in "park".

Ok...I'll be nice.

If this was a manual transmission, you could indeed put the parking brake on with the transmision in gear to achieve the desired result as well.

I haven't ever worked on an auto E46, but the flexplate should have the same hole in it to lock it in place with a pin.


Hehhe...be nice!

Anyhow, I popped open the blently service manual and I am studying both your direction and the manual instructions to replace the vibration damper.

Before I order the new vibration damper, is there a "sure/absolute" way to determine whether my damper need replacing or not? I know that I can look at the damper and see if it woobles or not but I am curious to see if there is any tale tale sign of a failing damper.

thanks
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Old 04-17-2007, 04:56 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Addy25 View Post
BMWStephen. I have a 330Xi. Before that I had a 325xi. both with around 50k miles when i got them and both had the exact same issue. After the car had warmed up, if i came to a stop light. The car would appear to idle normally while in D and with the brake pedal depresed. Then suddenly the RPM needle would drop about 100-200RPMs and the car would shudder, and the needle would go back up and the car would start idling normally. This keeps happening continuously. the car is fine for less than a minute..then the needle drops again and goes back to normal in less than a sec. Sometimes it tries to stay low but then goes back up if i move the car a bit. This is a 330Xi btw.

Now I had taken it in to the dealer previously for this issue, and the response was, there are no codes in the ECU so we cant really say there is a problem. They raised the RPM by about 100 and left it at that.. so my car started idling at a higher RPM but the problem did not go away. I went there again for my 60k inspection and told them I had some excess vibration issues from the front end after going over potholes etc, and they replaced both the front half shafts. Even though an Indy shop I usually go to for oil changes in between the recommended intervals said everythings in A-1 condition.

SO sadly, even after replacing the front half shafts, the problem remained

Now, I have noticed that this happens much much more frequently if I have my heater or the AC ON with the car warmed up. It DOES happen with both off but very rarely. mostly its when the AC or Heater is on.

Its the same frickin dancing needle problem that a lot of other cars are infected with and makes me wonder how the hell does BMW not come up with a fix or a TSB or recall or something for it.
Addy, I'm truly sorry about your problem. I wish I had intervene much sooner. I have acknowledge there are 2 types of vibration most of us experience. For me I have both, the XI related one and the e46 general one. When I had replaced my axle shafts, the rough vibrations were completely gone. The following day I realized i still felt small coherent vibrations and was assuming it was from my Dinan exhaust. But when compared to other cars that run straight pipes, their car idled smoother than mine. Now I am aware that I have a 2nd vibration, which is the same one you have along with limited slip and bluedragon (both have the problems and are non-awd). I've been diagnosing it for a week so far and notice that my exhaust would shake abnormally when im at a stop in gear.

PLEASE NOT XIer's make sure to check your car if you have the right vibration problem before you make any move. The axle shaft related problem will not have your exhaust vibrating at a stop in gear. So please check that or have someone check your exhaust for u when ur at a stop and in gear for you before you decided to use the output shaft replacement method.

Back to our problem Addy, even though our cars arent throwing any codes, it is a problem indeed. When my exhaust was vibrating I originally assumed it was the hangers but those were checked and were fine. Now I believe it is a faulty sensor problem because I notice that my right passenger side mirror vibrates too when im at idle which leads me to believe that this is an exhaust sensor issue because the passenger mirror is right next to the headers in which the exhaust pipes run through there and then finds its way out through the driver side rear. Regardless I'll continue to run more tests and diagnose it during my free time from school.

I've also notice that my exhaust stops shaking when Im at a stop in gear with my foot on the brake but at the same time giving it some gas (so it maybe throttle related also).

Once again I'm truly sorry for what has happen Addy and i hope we can get this problem fixed asap. But if you have time please check the characteristics of your exhaust and see if they act like mine. It'll help me better isolate the problem

edit:
Addy also, did you do any intake/throttlebody/exhaust modifications? You're rpm's are extremely low to the point where the engine is barely able to keep itself alive during idle. Perhaps there is a vaccuum leak has the stealership check for that? Also regarding your AC/heater vibration, if the vibration is there when its on, it could be a belt/pulley problem because those 2 parts derive their power from the engine block where the crank shaft and other pulleys feed off the engine's power to be functional. But I am confused though are you saying that this vibration is only happening when those 2 things are on?

Last edited by bmwstephen; 04-17-2007 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 04-18-2007, 01:39 PM   #71
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BMWStephen.. I really appreciate your response. HEre are the things

1 - My Intake, throttele body etc ALL are bone stock. no mods there what so ever.

2- I have a ZHP rear Muffler (just the muffler, not the pipes, not the ZHP resonators..Everything in the exhaust is stock upto the muffler.

3- My car idles at around 550-600 RPMs which seems to be the right RPM for our cars.

Now when the problem occurs, the RPM drops down to about 500 line and the car shakes a bit as if a slight shiver and the RPM goes back up to 550-600 and the car idles fine.

IF you notice closely though, the RPM needle is almost always moving up and down very slightly. This has been called the dancing needle problem on this forum.

Also, the isue I have has been discussed many times but to no avail. I keep trying to search for definitive solutions but no one seems to have one good fix. Some replaced their cam shaft position sensors, some replaced the idle control valve. Some even had the Vanos replaced. DOing all this, some folks did manage to get rid of the problem. I even read that someone got rid of the problem by updating to the latest software.

The Problem is I dont know why any BMW reps dont come forward to discuss this issue. The first time I had gone to my dealer I had taken a whole thread on this but they didnt even bother looking at it . Said they would but that they said we have to look at your car and find the problem and the other ppl problems could be different. Basically..they didnt really want to dig in.

So, at the end, I dont really know what is going on. As I had said, that the AC / Heater enhances the problem but I dont think they cause it to happen. I think the Cause is in or around the Vanos.

BTW, i remembered, I had the idle control valve replaced on my 325xi but it didnt make any difference.

There is another vibration that happens when the car is cold and you have the AC/heater on high. The idle goes up to about 800RPM or 900 RPM and stays there and while at a stop light, with the car in D, and brake pedal depressed, the car vibrates pretty badly. NOT too bad, but not like a 30K car should. Just uncomfortably so I change to Neutral and the car idles smooth again. That I think could be the tranny mounts maybe. But that problem is def just cold weather related.

The fluctuating Idle is just a pain in the behind because it literally feels like your car just shivered in pain!
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:34 PM   #72
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thank you for the update addy,

i'll continue to look into it and keep everyone up to date on a frequent basis. please let us know if you also find anything

also addy can u do the exhaust check like I mentioned to make sure we have the same problem? As in, if your in gear ur foot is on the brake at astop, see if your muffler vibrates violently
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Old 04-18-2007, 11:00 PM   #73
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bmwstepehen, I will do that check over the weekend.

THere is however the fact that the exhaust by itself is doing nothing to cause this problem. It maybe a symptom. Because the exhaust is totally dependant on what comes out of the engine, and through the cats. Depending on how the engine vibrates, that vibration goes through the exhast since its pretty much just hanging there really only fixed to the enginer at the headers. So whatever is going on is really going on in the enginer bay area.

I will get back to you after that checkup

Last edited by Addy25; 04-18-2007 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:32 PM   #74
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if people with this problem have time I would like to request a favor. I'm going to start seeing if the spark plugs could be the problem. I recently checked and notice I have bosch plugs. I checked on realoem and they have NGK ones available too. If you can check and tell me what brand of spark plugs you have that'll help. NOTE only ppl with problems.
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:05 AM   #75
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if people with this problem have time I would like to request a favor. I'm going to start seeing if the spark plugs could be the problem. I recently checked and notice I have bosch plugs. I checked on realoem and they have NGK ones available too. If you can check and tell me what brand of spark plugs you have that'll help. NOTE only ppl with problems.
I have Iridium IK20.

my problem seems to be getting worst. Now the problem occurs in neutral and park also. I did managed to find the culprit though. I was at a drive though. My car was vibrating under D (with brake pedal depressed). I shifted to Nuetral but the problem didn;t go away.

I walked out to my car and noticed that the sound came from my exaust. I grab my exhuast tips and the noise went away.

this weekend I am going to check my exhaust hangers.
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:06 AM   #76
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yeah i did that once before to but my hangers were found, either way limited slip keep us up to date.

I wonder if it could possibly be the exhaust, is there a certain torque spec we have to tighten the bolts to in order for it not to be so tight onto the car that it would transfer vibration and not to loose so that it'll fall off?

also were those spark plugs on ur car the ones that came with the car?
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:37 PM   #77
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:10 PM   #78
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:12 PM   #79
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update:

I checked my hangers this weekend. the exhaust are properly mounted on the hangers. man.....what a mystery
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:42 PM   #80
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yeah i checked mine too same thing. Anyways I've also notice when my car is at an incline. this problem does not happen. I've notice that there maybe a lot of pressure build up around the engine and headers area. Everytime i tap the gas whie the brake is depressed to give it a bit of throttle, the exhaust smooths out and does not vibrate as if it was in neutral or park.
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