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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 05-08-2007, 02:37 PM   #41
pierowman
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Jl nice they are actually the exception to the advertising gemic. Jl believes in telling people how it is, they make great stuff!

What kind of sub? You probably dont know this one how is the sub wired up?

That 1000/1 is a monster, you might consider digital amps instead. Digital consume a lot less power than the analog amp you have. JL plans on releasing thier digital series this fall.
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Old 05-08-2007, 02:41 PM   #42
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well right now i have a JL 1000/1 in there and have a 450/4 waiting to go in. I dont know what my max watts are, maybe 1450?

and when i first had the sub installed i had it half way up on the amp, the lights dimmed ALOT when it hit and the breaker would trip constantly. I had my installer turn the amp down to bout 1/4 until we got the cap in. It still dims a little now.
I have the same amp, and a yellow top battery , and no dimming lights
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Old 05-08-2007, 02:44 PM   #43
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10W7 is the sub since 12W7 was too big for the trunk...

to the guy that mentioned the battery, i would change the battery out or put a high output alternator BUT if ANYTHING happens to the car, the dealer can blame the alternator or the new battery as the fault since those two basically make everything work.
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Old 05-08-2007, 04:58 PM   #44
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get a cap. i ran into the same problem that you had... i'm using 1farad, try to get something bigger if you can.. but stick with a good brand..









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10W7 is the sub since 12W7 was too big for the trunk...

to the guy that mentioned the battery, i would change the battery out or put a high output alternator BUT if ANYTHING happens to the car, the dealer can blame the alternator or the new battery as the fault since those two basically make everything work.
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Old 05-08-2007, 05:13 PM   #45
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Get A Spare Battery Or A 1 Farat Cap , Mininum.... You Will Be Fine.. You Do Not Need The Alternator
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:02 PM   #46
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so a really good cap will stop this tranny and stereo problem?
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Old 05-09-2007, 02:10 AM   #47
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I really don't understand this. A line converter has high impedence inputs which step down the voltage on the head unit output. This shouldn't cause any radiated electrical interference? If properly installed, you shouldn't have to run any car audio cabling from front to rear which might induce a small amount of RF interference into other wiring.

Sounds like everything is in the trunk so I'm not sure where this interference into the K Bus is coming from?

Maybe a voltage drop from the increased current demand from the lighting and stereo may be causing the issue. But that's not what is being said.
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:24 AM   #48
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voltage drop is more than likely the culprit.. a cap would prob. (80% sure)stop this... the cap just holds the extra juice to draw from rather than the cars other electrical components... the best way to mount is as close to the battery as you can... which will be fine in the trunk cause our batterys are there. most people have the battery up front and they mount the cap in the trunk for show..
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Old 05-09-2007, 05:50 AM   #49
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I think the most likely cause would be as JB said EMF. You could try and shield the Control unit, Ive only done a small amount of study in Radio Wave Propagation and RF Interference but It doesn't seem unreasonable that a decent EMF shield on the device could certainly reduce the chance of interference. EMF Shields come in all types of materials, sizes and shapes. No harm in experimenting.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:30 AM   #50
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Quote:
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I think the most likely cause would be as JB said EMF. You could try and shield the Control unit, Ive only done a small amount of study in Radio Wave Propagation and RF Interference but It doesn't seem unreasonable that a decent EMF shield on the device could certainly reduce the chance of interference. EMF Shields come in all types of materials, sizes and shapes. No harm in experimenting.
EMF from what? Everything is in the trunk. I don't think anything audio related would be able to affect anything from a couple of feet away.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:38 AM   #51
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What about the head unit?

You also have to remember everything travels over a BUS network and things in the trunk are on the BUS they use a twisted pair to help insulate it from the interference. While this twisted pair does a good job it is not perfect. BMW use to uses a twisted pair plus a shield ground wire however this was to expensive and deemed unnecessary for STOCK applications. I have seen peopl who park under Power Grids have issues also.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:42 AM   #52
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so a really good cap will stop this tranny and stereo problem?
Yes, dont be afraid to spend a little extra money on a really good cap. I got a pheonix gold cap about 3 years ago. Once i put the bigger cap in, it was fine after that. It was a great one. Digital with a volt meter on it as well. I was running 2 different ones at the same time. I was running 2 12' kicker solobaric l 5's (ol skool setup) with a 1400 watt Phenix gold amp and 2 caps.
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Old 05-09-2007, 02:16 PM   #53
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okay well i got a lil update here.

My installer was able to contact the actual guy who worked on my car through the head mech that he knows, bmw makes an upgraded module to get rid of that whole tranny problem but the dealer wont tell you about it or suggest it since it wasnt meant to be there in the first place. Its supposed to fix the signal issue and allow any type of high wattage ICE to be installed and everyting will work as intended. Car will be going in very soon to have all of that done.

btw are control arm bushings, fan belts covered under warranty?
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:49 PM   #54
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voltage drop is more than likely the culprit.. a cap would prob. (80% sure)stop this... the cap just holds the extra juice to draw from rather than the cars other electrical components... the best way to mount is as close to the battery as you can... which will be fine in the trunk cause our batterys are there. most people have the battery up front and they mount the cap in the trunk for show..
Actually this is wrong you dont want it as close to the battery you want it as close to the amp that draws the most current which is the sub amp. The further away it is the less help it is. The battery is not the one that needs the extra juice.
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Old 05-09-2007, 08:07 PM   #55
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What about the head unit?

You also have to remember everything travels over a BUS network and things in the trunk are on the BUS they use a twisted pair to help insulate it from the interference. While this twisted pair does a good job it is not perfect. BMW use to uses a twisted pair plus a shield ground wire however this was to expensive and deemed unnecessary for STOCK applications. I have seen peopl who park under Power Grids have issues also.
Why would there be a problem if he is using the OEM head unit? I would think if anything, a preamp signal from an aftermarket head unit would radiate a lot less interference because of the voltage is much lower.

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Yes, dont be afraid to spend a little extra money on a really good cap. I got a pheonix gold cap about 3 years ago. Once i put the bigger cap in, it was fine after that. It was a great one. Digital with a volt meter on it as well. I was running 2 different ones at the same time. I was running 2 12' kicker solobaric l 5's (ol skool setup) with a 1400 watt Phenix gold amp and 2 caps.
If you are getting serious voltage which would cause car components to malfunction, a cap won't do anything. Assuming that your charging system is good, you might get away with a hi-performance battery but you'd really need a HO alternator.

OP...keep us posted. I'm really curious to see if this updated module fixes this.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:08 PM   #56
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will do guys, hope problem is solved through this upgrade. I may not even need a 2 farat cap, maybe just a 1 after this.
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Old 05-15-2007, 04:04 AM   #57
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I have a 12w7 with a 1000/1 and when im sitting at an idle i can see my rpms go down when im bumpin, and it causes a transmission failure. makes it error and get stuck in 4th gear. i have a 01 330ci with auto, after getting a monster cap i didnt have the problem anymore.
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:13 AM   #58
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I have my xbox 360 in my car. Just yesterday i went into the trunk of my car and turned on my power invertor and so I could run my xbox. 5 minutes later my transmission light came on and it started shiftting really hard. I got to where I was going turned off the invertor and turned off the car let it sit for awhile and then the light went off and it hasnt come on since. The xbox 360 is connected to my car for sound through the aux input. Thats not much of an aftermarket stereo but im sure this was the cause of the problem.
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:18 AM   #59
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sounds like a cap will be my missin piece to this puzzle, but still waiting on rallye to get me in for this update.
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Old 05-16-2007, 06:14 PM   #60
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Is there any way to solve this problem I really dont want to get rid of my xbox in my car. I have a 350watt inverter that is hooked up to the battery in the trunk. If I get a less wattage output invertor do you think this would solve the problem and not cause my tranny light to come on anymore.
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