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Lighting Forum
Angel Eyes, DDEs, lighted rings, Clear Turn Signals, LEDs, Xenon, HID, or Bi-Xenon. If it lights up and you want to discuss it, post here!

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Old 07-03-2007, 11:35 PM   #1
jm323Ci
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Angel eye fuse keeps blowing

Ive replaced the fuse a few times already and everytime it just blows it.
Anyone here have any idea where the extra power maybe coming fom, or what may cause it. I tried using a slightly higher fuse (7.5) but that worked for about 1 min and it blew. Ive also tried re-wiring, and taking it completely out and reinstalling a few days later.

I have them hooked up to the accessory wire, and my power source is + terminal under the hood.

They are Umnitza Predator Chromiums.

Thanks
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:43 AM   #2
paraklas
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i'd suggest avoiding higher rating fuse since it will damage the wiring.

most probably something is shorted inside the ballast. are you sure your positive connections don't touch any part of the car's body?
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:08 AM   #3
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change your ground. it could by that you're not getting a good connection on where ever you have located your ground
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Old 07-04-2007, 04:30 AM   #4
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bad ground does not blow fuses! over-current does, caused by short circuit
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:34 AM   #5
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i agree... you've absolutely got a short somewhere. and putting a high-amp fuse in there is a BAD BAD BAD idea. you can seriously damage stuff like that. go over all your wiring and make sure the positive wire isn't missing any insulation that's touching the body.
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstainba View Post
i agree... you've absolutely got a short somewhere. and putting a high-amp fuse in there is a BAD BAD BAD idea. you can seriously damage stuff like that. go over all your wiring and make sure the positive wire isn't missing any insulation that's touching the body.
Yeah Im glad I didn't see smoke or anything like that. So my problem, you would say, is my + wire. Or is it my ballast?
Ill check over the + wire. Thanks
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:24 PM   #7
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sorry my bad. i read it too fast. well take a picture of your engine bay so we could see how you installed it. it could be that your wires' insulator is being eaten (more like scraped) away by your hood or something like that causing it to arc or something.
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Old 07-05-2007, 09:20 AM   #8
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Disconnect your ballasts one at a time and see if the fuse still blows. If it blows with both disconnected, it's the wiring itself. It could also be the relay shorted internally. So if it blows when both ballasts are disconnected, remove the relay next...
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:59 AM   #9
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^ I suggest the same thing. Probably a bad ballast (assuming all other connections are good). Typically, DDEs draw less than 1 amp, a tad more during initial startup, but even a 3-amp fuse should not blow.
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:42 AM   #10
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Each of my dde ballasts is rated at 0.7A so I put in a 1.5A fast-blow fuse. I wouldn't use anything more than that. It gives them the max they should require and an additional .1A for good measure.
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:57 AM   #11
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Each of my dde ballasts is rated at 0.7A so I put in a 1.5A fast-blow fuse. I wouldn't use anything more than that. It gives them the max they should require and an additional .1A for good measure.
When they first start up, there is a current spike. I would recommend a 3A fuse instead. 3A is small enough to properly protect the wires and large enough so that the surge doesn't blow it at low voltage (more current is drawn at lower voltages).
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Old 07-05-2007, 12:14 PM   #12
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you're right about the inverse proportionality of voltage and current, except for one thing. that is only valid on the output side of the ballast. the voltage in stays the same and the current will never go above the 0.7A. internally, after going through the cascade multiplier, the voltage is much higher and the current is proportianlly lower. even after the arc is formed and the voltage drop occurs the increased current draw is on that side and only relative to the max input current. in either case of ignition or maintenance of the arc, the current draw should be limited to 0.7A for each ballast.
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Old 07-05-2007, 12:24 PM   #13
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Disagree. There is a coil on the "input" side. The coil has a resistance, so lower voltage = more current still applies. We are ultimately taking about energy. Energy in = proportionate amount of energy out. DDEs do work better when the voltage is higher (i.e. car running = ~14v). If you don't believe me, grab a current meter and hook it up to a ballast. Check draw as voltage decreases.

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Originally Posted by sstainba View Post
you're right about the inverse proportionality of voltage and current, except for one thing. that is only valid on the output side of the ballast. the voltage in stays the same and the current will never go above the 0.7A. internally, after going through the cascade multiplier, the voltage is much higher and the current is proportianlly lower. even after the arc is formed and the voltage drop occurs the increased current draw is on that side and only relative to the max input current. in either case of ignition or maintenance of the arc, the current draw should be limited to 0.7A for each ballast.
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Old 07-05-2007, 12:46 PM   #14
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I'm pretty sure there's no coil in these - it would be too big. These ballasts are electronic, not magnetic like their metal-halide counterparts. I'm not aruging that they work "better" with increased input voltage. That would produce a higher post-cascade voltage and increase the arc temperature. My point is that the ballast will consume at most 8.4 watts regardless of the state (start or otherwise). Sure, then input current will be lower when the input is 14V and after ignition... but even so, the max current at any time is still <=0.7A.
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:51 PM   #15
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ok nerds we get the point lol jk jk

anyways, did you guys go to school for this stuff? i need to learn some more.
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Old 07-05-2007, 09:11 PM   #16
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I have a B.S. in Computer Science & Math... Spent 4 years as an electrical system specialist for the B-2A Spirit. But now I'm back to computer-y stuff @ Cerner.
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:34 AM   #17
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cool. any classes you would recommend for this stuff?
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Old 07-08-2007, 10:22 AM   #18
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i'm not sure classes are really needed. electrical theory is pretty simple actually. you could probably just pick up a book on the basics and learn quite a bit.
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:50 AM   #19
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oh ok. i guess i'll be going to barnes and noble soon. thanks a lot.
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:47 AM   #20
ca1242
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If all you want to do is learn to work on cars (stereos, alarms, etc), then you could take the MECP exam. They have a study guide that will teach you basics.
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