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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-28-2011, 06:43 PM   #81
Rigmaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyNoobmodder View Post
is this differant on a 323i rear wheel dr automatic?
Not sure what part you're asking about, but a 323i with automatic transmission does not have a clutch- so little or none of the info in this thread will apply to your car.


If you can clarify what you're asking about, you will probably get a better answer.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:01 PM   #82
rurena
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so i started this today. I've decided to change the pilot bearings as well. We got everything off, no air chisel but a few good whacks got the starter off. Same Pin problem. I also ran into broken exhaust studs. I am going to follow another post, drill them out and replace them with bolts. The local dealership wants $20 per bolt. I will go to Ace and get a few 10mm x 50mm bolts and nuts in stainless. I however stayed with a standard dual mass flywheel and standard clutch. need to get a clutch alignment tool tomorrow. 6 hours today thanks to this post and probably 4 later to put it back together. Thanks.
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:40 AM   #83
ohio330
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I have the engine mounts loose and the trans dropped as far as it will go....still can't get to the top bolts. Anyone have any input please?
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:01 AM   #84
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When I did my clutch last year I used the jack pressure on the ac pulley to lower the back of the engine down a bit more. It gave me just enough room to get a long extension back there. If you have a mechanical fan instead of an electric fan (I think most manuals are electric fans) you will also have to disengage the fan clutch from the crank in order to do this.
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:44 AM   #85
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did this on my 325 vert the other day was a tight job,my suggestions
1 starter dowel i found if u get a long pry bar and from the back of the gearbox on top u can tap the starter off the dowel simple
2 exhaust studs i rung 2.i found they were seized and spent hours beating with hammer and punch with no movement then cut them flush and tried to drill out but their high tensile,so i found small grinder and put a cut straight thru the bolt and the outer flange worked they tapped straight out ,i put new bolts in and just welded the cut up .wish i done it at the start and saved me hours of sweat and tears
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:56 AM   #86
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Did anyone have trouble getting the starter to go back on? the threads are started and the dowel pin is in the hole of the starter, but when I tighten them down the starter doesn't want to move on the dowel. Suggestions? Also I feel like the clutch pedal after the new clutch feels the same as stock, is this normal? I went with a stage 2 gripforce kit. TIA!
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:45 PM   #87
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Make sure that the teeth of the starter gear is lined up with the outer gear ring of the flywheel. If they don't mate up right correctly the starter won't be able to slide in place. this may be your problem.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:49 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by castaway View Post


quick update for those thinking of buying a UUC lightweight flywheel + clutch.

DON'T!

the 325Ci just turned over 140,000 miles (55,000 miles with UUC parts) and the flywheel just failed catastrophically, taking the clutch with it.

it is being replaced with a stock clutch + flywheel.

that is all.
I'm curious about what happened to your uuc clutch. I installed a stage one flywheel last year with m5 hybrid setup. I don't have any problems so far, but I am definitely interested in knowing what happened to yours and if there are any signs of failure I should be keeping in mind.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:55 PM   #89
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MY favorite bolts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohio330 View Post
I have the engine mounts loose and the trans dropped as far as it will go....still can't get to the top bolts. Anyone have any input please?
I literally just did this today, and what a pain in the ass it was. Make sure you have removed the drive shaft, rubber doughnut, the shifter and that you have removed the cross brace so the trannie can hang (Use a jack to support). Stick your head up as high as you can and shine a light to find the top bolts, you will need a very large extension for your ratchet...I had to stack up 4 extensions! So extend that thing as long as possible and try to get it onto the nut (ask me for measurements if you need...i can take pics and make a size diagram). This can take some time but be patient. Once you feel its holding onto the nut tight, throw your cranker on there and she should budge loose. Easier said than done though. Reply with any questions!
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:12 PM   #90
IrunBimmer
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i need to do this on my car too, it looks like such a pain in my ass
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:37 PM   #91
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Subbing, great info in here, thanks to all that have contributed. I'm about to start collecting parts so that when mine goes out, I'll be ready. I'm only having slight surging in reverse and the pedal is letting out pretty high, hopefully she'll be ok for another 2-3 months though *crossing fingers.*

2003 330i ZHP at 115k daily driven like its stolen...
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:14 PM   #92
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doing my gripforce stg 2 lightweight flywheel on thursday... here we go!
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:25 PM   #93
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does anyone know the torque settings on the clutch plate?
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:00 AM   #94
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if anyone was wondering its the same of the stock numbers
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:59 PM   #95
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Is this job recommended to do on the ground? I want to use a lift....not sure how i would tilt the motor....or support trans...
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:08 PM   #96
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Honestly job was easier then I thought it would be... As long as you have the right tools. Swivel extension is a great friend!!! I did this job on te ground and it was difficult at all I'm not at all a big guy though, 150lbs 5"8 I had the car wheels on bricks (large bricks) the higher the car the better. Once the gearbox brace is off I jacked the motor from where the timing chain is under with a large block of wood. The whole thing tilts and you can reach all the torx bolts very easy. Anymore questions lmk!
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:09 PM   #97
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Btw forgot to add in bolt the motor mounts!
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:31 PM   #98
mikeetastic
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guys need help..

i will be doing this DIY in 2 weeks but even all the googling i did, i still dont know which clutch (part/model no) i should get (will be ordering it online since it's cheaper)??

my car is a 99 e46 323i 2.5L.. any suggestion for the brand and model i should buy? the search i came up with Luk/Sachs/GF but im not 100% sure which one is for my car?? is it also true that an 98-99 e36 will work on my car?

TIA and sorry for the noobish questions..
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:28 AM   #99
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a couple of things - first, thanks for the thread - lots of good info. I got started on this and quit because I felt like I was not going to have enough time. Must have screwed something up when I put the slave back in its home because the pushod is in the bellhousing somewhere and all my fluid ran out the bottom of the trans..

so now i might as well make it happen.. one thing I noticed is that everyones gear box is leaky like mine. Has anyone split the trans and resealed this? Or is everyone just using it as an excuse to put fresh MTL in it.

mike - just order it from somewhere that has fitment guides.. like BAV Auto or something, Pelican has kits to, I think thats where I got mine.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:26 AM   #100
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i am attempting this tomorrow but cannot seem to find torque specs for all the bolts i need to put back on. can't seem to find a online FSM anywhere. does anyone know?
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