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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 04-08-2008, 12:05 PM   #81
mjazz81
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Wow, after reading all of these follow up posts I am VERY happy I bought the custom tool. The bushing went in and out like a breeze, was very anti climatic after the hassle of removing the diff (which as I mentioned before I stripped one of those external torx bolt heads off that hold the half shafts to the diff).

A side note, I too had clunks and creaks/thumps before (way to be technical, I know). The clunks went away when I swapped that rear bushing out (was visibly shot). The creaks and thumps went away when I had the TMS sub frame re-enforcing kit welded in. There was no visible subframe damage from outside inspection but once cutting into the sheetmetal in the trunk area we found lots of cracks. This car spent a lot of time on various tracks (which I think lead up to these problems but someone will probably dispute that since this is the interweb) but as soon as all of this work was done and the car was a dream to drive again my s/o proclaimed it was hers. Nice.
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:03 AM   #82
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Are You Kidding Me??

Just bought a 2000 BMW 328ci. Noticed the rear "clunk" a couple weeks after I got it. Took it to a great local garage and they told me it would be ready later in the day or the next morning....... I get a call the next morning telling me that it still isn't ready. I ask them why and they tell me the person who was working on it is sick. 6 days later, still no car, guy is still "sick" and they tell me its going to be around $800!!!!!!! I couldn't f***kin believe this! Just venting a little... if you have had a garage fix it how much did you pay?
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:46 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by mjazz81 View Post
Wow, after reading all of these follow up posts I am VERY happy I bought the custom tool. The bushing went in and out like a breeze, was very anti climatic after the hassle of removing the diff (which as I mentioned before I stripped one of those external torx bolt heads off that hold the half shafts to the diff).

A side note, I too had clunks and creaks/thumps before (way to be technical, I know). The clunks went away when I swapped that rear bushing out (was visibly shot). The creaks and thumps went away when I had the TMS sub frame re-enforcing kit welded in. There was no visible subframe damage from outside inspection but once cutting into the sheetmetal in the trunk area we found lots of cracks. This car spent a lot of time on various tracks (which I think lead up to these problems but someone will probably dispute that since this is the interweb) but as soon as all of this work was done and the car was a dream to drive again my s/o proclaimed it was hers. Nice.
Can you post pictures of the tool that you used? I want to create a replica tool. Thanks.
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:14 AM   #84
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Has anyone considered drilling out most of the rubber and filling the open areas with urethane? I've done this for years on engine mounts. Just use a softer than normal urethane and very little vibration is passed through.
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:17 AM   #85
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^ wow. never thought of that. dunno tho, they solid bushings in these applications create a lot of vibration, i suppose any kind of solid connection would transfer that vibration, urethane or not.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:40 AM   #86
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It's all about balance, really. For instance with motor mounts, if your motor isn't balanced well or your balance shafts are removed, it will pass a LOT of vibration into the cabin. Otherwise, it's annoying for the first few weeks but they soften up a tiny bit over time. There are also many different densities of urethane, so for this application a softer one may be better, and would last much longer than rubber. Not to mention much cheaper than buying urethane bushings from a performance shop.
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Old 05-09-2008, 02:13 PM   #87
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It's all about balance, really. For instance with motor mounts, if your motor isn't balanced well or your balance shafts are removed, it will pass a LOT of vibration into the cabin. Otherwise, it's annoying for the first few weeks but they soften up a tiny bit over time. There are also many different densities of urethane, so for this application a softer one may be better, and would last much longer than rubber. Not to mention much cheaper than buying urethane bushings from a performance shop.

have u seen the meyle diff bushing, that thing looks and feels like the perfect material density.
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Old 05-09-2008, 04:04 PM   #88
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Can't say that I have, though I can only imagine its rubber or urethane. They don't normally make them out of anything else.
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Old 05-13-2008, 03:26 PM   #89
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So I sold my e36 and went to the dealership to look at a 01 m3 with 39,000 miles. I brought it for a test drive and doesnt make any noise during driving and runs very strong. If i let of the clutch quick or just let the car jerk back and forth by pressing the gas and letting go and keep doing that you can hear a loud noise comming from the rear? Diff bushings?? Had the bmw dealer run thru it considering it is under 90day warrenty and they told me it is normal from these cars.
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Old 05-13-2008, 03:56 PM   #90
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So I sold my e36 and went to the dealership to look at a 01 m3 with 39,000 miles. I brought it for a test drive and doesnt make any noise during driving and runs very strong. If i let of the clutch quick or just let the car jerk back and forth by pressing the gas and letting go and keep doing that you can hear a loud noise comming from the rear? Diff bushings?? Had the bmw dealer run thru it considering it is under 90day warrenty and they told me it is normal from these cars.
i dunno, mine makes a VERY VERY slight thump when i side step the clutch too quickly. so i dont know if its normal. the design of the rear diff bushing is weird tho, the whole through which the bolt goes isnt a round hole, but a bit long. almost as if its supposed to have a bit of play.
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Old 05-13-2008, 04:59 PM   #91
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Yes, same thing mine does is when you side step the clutch or let it out very quick you can hear a bang and sounds like its in the diff. Guess I will just replace all the bushings with tms solid diff made from billet aluminum and hopefully the sound will go away.
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Old 05-14-2008, 01:28 PM   #92
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No it wont go away.. the flywheel cause the problem.. if you have a loud bang when you put first gear of 3 or reverse then your flywheel is shot. I know is because a friend of my have the same sympthon and he replaced the diff, clutch, diff mount, every thing only the central bearing and the flywheel was left. So he buyed a flywheel around 60 euro on ebay installed and loud bang sound was gone.
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Old 05-14-2008, 03:46 PM   #93
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No it wont go away.. the flywheel cause the problem.. if you have a loud bang when you put first gear of 3 or reverse then your flywheel is shot. I know is because a friend of my have the same sympthon and he replaced the diff, clutch, diff mount, every thing only the central bearing and the flywheel was left. So he buyed a flywheel around 60 euro on ebay installed and loud bang sound was gone.
i thought about that, because my clutch is slipping slightly.
i figured id wait until i do my clutch before i give it a fair assessment.
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Old 05-14-2008, 04:45 PM   #94
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my clutch is also slippen especialy when i must stop very frequently for the lights and when it is hot out side. Only he two dual massa flywheel cause this problem noting els no transmission flange or something output shaft. Only the diff mount and flywheel with clutch replacement will make the differens. But for how long i dont know!! maybe design fault on the early models 1998 -2000 ?. Buy a good flywheel and you will get rid of this problem.
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Old 05-15-2008, 12:15 AM   #95
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just bought my 99 323i and it has the bump in the trunk...so while i was putting rotors on the rear tonight i crawled under there to inspect, and i had the wife move the passenger rear wheel back and forth and whallaah!!! rear differential bushing is shot. all others look fine, so my plan is to just install that bushing for now as money is tight tight...do i still have to take hole rear out? or? this looks like a job for the shop....
when she moves the tire you can clearly see and hear the "thump" the differential is making....fun fun.
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Old 05-15-2008, 05:25 PM   #96
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just bought my 99 323i and it has the bump in the trunk...so while i was putting rotors on the rear tonight i crawled under there to inspect, and i had the wife move the passenger rear wheel back and forth and whallaah!!! rear differential bushing is shot. all others look fine, so my plan is to just install that bushing for now as money is tight tight...do i still have to take hole rear out? or? this looks like a job for the shop....
when she moves the tire you can clearly see and hear the "thump" the differential is making....fun fun.
if you find a shop that quotes low then go with the shop. otherwise it's a DIY, just lots of tight bolts to turn. it's basically like swapping the diff with the added hassle of pressing out/in the new diff mount. on a lift with air tools and the correct diff mount tool it shouldn't be more than a 3.5 hr job. a first time DIYer I would guess about 6hrs total with hand tools.
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:50 PM   #97
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For the bushing i am very easy DIY i have done it like 2a 3 times.. press the bushing out or cut lubercate the new one with some grease not much but light. the press it in with a tool buyed or home made. be aware the bushing has direction line how to set the bushing. pay attentio to those.
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:47 PM   #98
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First of, thanks to OP for the DIY.

I see that OP has listed 2 different bushings.
Looking at link below (AutoHausAZ), I see that another diff bushings are available.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ential%20Mount

I am bit confused now
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so 2004 bmw's dont come with a diff?
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:50 AM   #99
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First of, thanks to OP for the DIY.

I see that OP has listed 2 different bushings.
Looking at link below (AutoHausAZ), I see that another diff bushings are available.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ential%20Mount

I am bit confused now
some are fronts some are rear, thats all.
dont buy that lemfoerder crap, theyre doo doo, get Meyle, or GTFO.

also, it seems some of those are subframe to frame bushings, go to realoem.com and look up part #s, its either that or lemfy has a weak and a no so weak version of this bushing.

click my sig, make a call, and order you a beefy metyle bushing.
you see how much more solid that bad boy looks
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Old 06-07-2008, 04:49 AM   #100
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whoo, so i'm in the middle of this shiet. i took the diff out today which was really simple.

now tomorrow is what i'm fearing, taking out/putting in the bushings. anyways i'll get back to you guys when i'm done wiht this.
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