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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 05-11-2010, 06:45 PM   #1
iftwb
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Exclamation DIY EXPERTS HELP : How to remove these two interesting things!?

If anyone knows how to remove the following parts, please give me a help on how to remove them.

Link - Courtesy of RealOEM.com: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...97&hg=41&fg=10



1. Part 1 [P#: 41118234034] OR Part 2 [P#: 41118234040]

2. Part 5 (incl. Parts 13 and 14) [P#: 51717111691]

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:51 PM   #2
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I'm going to ask.. what is it i'm looking at? The little picture of the car has no indicator to show where this is so i can't guess!
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:59 PM   #3
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Why are you removing the frame of the car?
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:01 PM   #4
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Removing frame rails? wat
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iftwb View Post
If anyone knows how to remove the following parts, please give me a help on how to remove them.

Link - Courtesy of RealOEM.com: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...97&hg=41&fg=10



1. Part 1 [P#: 41118234034] OR Part 2 [P#: 41118234040]

2. Part 5 (incl. Parts 13 and 14) [P#: 51717111691]

Any help is greatly appreciated.
(1) the rails are welded to the frame i believe, you'll need to cut them out/off and weld new ones in place

(2) the radiator bar is held on by bolts, two on the passenger side, two on the driver side, and a couple below ... it'll come off in the two pieces that you mentioned then can separate from there

btw op, the diagram shows you exactly where the mounting points are as well as location of the bolts
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:22 AM   #6
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look out for the spot welds. u gotta make sure u drill those out first.Also dont just cut it .cuz u need the existing holes to be pretty decent to weld the new ones back in place with a spot welder. or if you have a mig welder then you can just do a couple plug welds to put everything back together.
thats how they would do it in a body shop.
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Old 05-12-2010, 04:57 PM   #7
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spot welds? I'd use this:

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Old 05-12-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Looks like part #2 is a stub, for partial replacement of part #1 in the event the entire frame rail #1 does not need to be replaced. Drill out the spot welds, one at a time.
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Old 05-12-2010, 05:27 PM   #9
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if you have to ask you dont need to be doing it!
frame repair is not a DIY activity
ive run a body shop for 20 years, trust me, take it to a shop that has BMW experience or it will cost you double in the long run
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Old 05-13-2010, 03:54 AM   #10
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What in gods name do you need to remove those for?

You're not in DIY territory.. you're in "pay someone who has been trained" territory.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:25 PM   #11
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Hi guys, thanks for the inputs so far, really appreciate the help. Hopefully the same guys can help me out again!

Overview:

I got into an accident, only the front part of the RIGHT ENGINE SUPPORT is damaged.
I'm asking how to remove that particular engine support because I want to know if its technically separable and individually replaceable, which I now know it is. Given that fact, I want to buy a replacement of the front part of the engine support to give to a trained, professional mechanic/autobody workshop to weld on for me. In doing so, it saves me a lot of money instead of paying for insanely inflated Australian BMW prices. NOTE: I don't plan to DIY at all.

My other question to a NEW PROBLEM:

I've removed the four large nuts labelled Part 8 and four of the bolts labelled Part 7 in the diagram below:

Link : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...97&hg=41&fg=10

However, as I try to remove the large radiator support frame Part 5 in above diagram, its blocked by the FRONT CARRIER BAR SHOCK ABSORBER, which is Part 7 circled in the diagram below. Note that this shock absorber pictured below (two of them on either side), slot through the holes of the radiator support frame near Part 8 and through Part 10 of the diagram above.

Link : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...29&hg=51&fg=15

Any ideas how I actually take out this 'shock absorber'. Because right now the order of things are positioned as follows:
| Engine Support Frame (Part #2) | Front Panel / Radiator Support (Part #5) | Front Carrier Bar Shock Absorber (Part # 7 Circled) |

Last edited by iftwb; 05-14-2010 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 05-15-2010, 01:45 AM   #12
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If I remember correct, the shock absorber is riveted in place, so you would need to drill the rivets out
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Old 05-15-2010, 01:47 AM   #13
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See the 2 rivets
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Old 05-15-2010, 04:01 PM   #14
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paraklas, when you say drill the rivets out, I'm hoping it's as easy as it sounds? Drill right in the center of the rivet. But would the people who would weld my engine support replacement part be able to put a new rivet for a new shock absorber?

Does anyone have anymore photos of that particular area and surrounding areas, I need some clearer visual reference then just exploded white/black diagrams.

Last edited by iftwb; 05-15-2010 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 05-15-2010, 04:26 PM   #15
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Sorry for the double post, but made a second post to make question separated.

If I remove the everything of the radiator (radiator and ALL surrounding parts), apart from the obvious radiator coolant that leaks out; is there anything else should I be aware of?
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:19 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by iftwb View Post
paraklas, when you say drill the rivets out, I'm hoping it's as easy as it sounds? Drill right in the center of the rivet. But would the people who would weld my engine support replacement part be able to put a new rivet for a new shock absorber?

Does anyone have anymore photos of that particular area and surrounding areas, I need some clearer visual reference then just exploded white/black diagrams.
Well if they can't rivet that shock back they shouldn't be welding engine supports for sure! It's simple yes, drill the rivet out. just when you are about to put them back, make sure everything is aligned else you won't be able to fit the front bumper carrier which bolts on the 2 shocks
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Old 05-15-2010, 07:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iftwb View Post
Hi guys, thanks for the inputs so far, really appreciate the help. Hopefully the same guys can help me out again!

Overview:

I got into an accident, only the front part of the RIGHT ENGINE SUPPORT is damaged.
I'm asking how to remove that particular engine support because I want to know if its technically separable and individually replaceable, which I now know it is. Given that fact, I want to buy a replacement of the front part of the engine support to give to a trained, professional mechanic/autobody workshop to weld on for me. In doing so, it saves me a lot of money instead of paying for insanely inflated Australian BMW prices. NOTE: I don't plan to DIY at all.

My other question to a NEW PROBLEM:

I've removed the four large nuts labelled Part 8 and four of the bolts labelled Part 7 in the diagram below:

Link : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...97&hg=41&fg=10

However, as I try to remove the large radiator support frame Part 5 in above diagram, its blocked by the FRONT CARRIER BAR SHOCK ABSORBER, which is Part 7 circled in the diagram below. Note that this shock absorber pictured below (two of them on either side), slot through the holes of the radiator support frame near Part 8 and through Part 10 of the diagram above.

Link : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...29&hg=51&fg=15

Any ideas how I actually take out this 'shock absorber'. Because right now the order of things are positioned as follows:
| Engine Support Frame (Part #2) | Front Panel / Radiator Support (Part #5) | Front Carrier Bar Shock Absorber (Part # 7 Circled) |
On the frame rail,if only the crush zone of the rail is crushed,you can replace just that.You can separate the new part by drilling the welds and replace the damaged parts only.You MUST NOT make the splice through the actual crush zone.Either make the splice ahead,or behind the crush zone.You will also need to measure the frame and pull the frame on a frame rack to get BOTH rails straight BEFORE you cut the damaged parts out.If you don't do this,nothing on the front end (bumper,fenders,headlights etc) will not fit, and the car won't drive straight either.

If you need to put in the entire rail, the engine and the seats,carpet and a whole assload of stuff needs to come off.And it will need measured more so than replacing just the rail end.

And most importantly, DO NOT CUT THE RAIL UNTIL YOU HAVE THE NEW PART IN YOUR HANDS!!!! I made this mistake ONCE about 11 years ago when I started doing body and frame work.

If you don't know exactly what you are doing, pay a body shop do it. You can get into trouble that you cannot fix.
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Old 05-15-2010, 07:59 PM   #18
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...pay a body shop do it...

yah...I'm sure the OP would've done that long ago if it was cheap.
That sounds like the car is totalled and/or not really worth fixing since it looks like a 50/50 or worse bet that it won't drive the same again after investing loads of time and cash on it.

Sell what you can and see about investing in another BMW.

BTW...they don't have insurance in the Outback
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:42 AM   #19
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Bodyman, a body shop will weld it on for me. No way in the world am I doing any welding to engine frame by myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarco View Post
yah...I'm sure the OP would've done that long ago if it was cheap.
That sounds like the car is totalled and/or not really worth fixing since it looks like a 50/50 or worse bet that it won't drive the same again after investing loads of time and cash on it.

Sell what you can and see about investing in another BMW.

BTW...they don't have insurance in the Outback
- I am getting a body shop to do it, but I'm replacing anything that I can do myself to save costs.

- Car isn't totaled, only minor damage to the front and surrounding areas, nothing mechanical.

- Not sure if that's a joke, ignorance or otherwise, but I'm from Sydney. I just didn't pay for my insurance on time because I couldn't afford it for a short time, due to other costs incurred unexpectedly.
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:03 PM   #20
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What in gods name do you need to remove those for?

You're not in DIY territory.. you're in "pay someone who has been trained" territory.
I'm only looking to replace #5. I bought a 325i that I simply love, but it was in a small collision before I got her. It's bent in just far enough to make things only a bit off more than if it were in original condition, but nothing I haven't already been able to work around in the least. It will most likely be a last, or close to last step DIY on my car considering the effect is mostly cosmetic. It creates a small gap between the headlights and the hood, and I had to realign the hood once I bought it. So on a scale of 1-10 ten being: "why bother with the diy", how har would it be to replace? It would seem more time consuming, and tedious than anything, but I could be wrong.
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