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General E46 Forum
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:58 AM   #1
Boolala
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So mad at myself I think I will drink all day AND NIGHT

So I did front brakes and rotors a few weeks ago and changed both front calipers since the left front was sticking and causing vibration. Bled all brakes and all was great. Daughter needed to take my Bimmer to the store since I was changing her radiator and she called me and said the brakes are very squishy. I told her to come straight home and by the time she got home she said she was using the emergency brake to help stop. I told her to pull it in the garage and I will look at it tomorrow (which is today). Went out this morning and brake fluid all over the garage floor from left rear tire assy.

Get ready for this one-------------I took the tire off and found why I couldn't find my open end wrench the size needed for the Zerk fittings. I left the moth** fu**in thing on the Zerk fitting which was the last caliper to bleed and obviously didn't give it that last snug of tightness.

So, now up to the auto store to get quarts of DOT 4 and see if I can do this over again HOWEVER, brake reservoir is now empty so now I suppose I will have to bleed the master correct--which is a total bitch correct?

And I was so happy yesterday due to finally finishing installing both control arms, inner and outer ball joints and Powerflex bushing and had an appt with the local garage tomorrow to align the front end, load balance and rotate my tires. That will have to wait now damn it!


4 double Kama Kazi's will be poured down my throat tonight!
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:02 AM   #2
Vulpinebean
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Well now ain't that about a bitch bit that stuff happens at least the bimmer is ok
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:05 AM   #3
KendrickC
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you'll need to get INPA or something like it to bleed the ABS/DSC systems as well.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:19 AM   #4
Boolala
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Originally Posted by KendrickC View Post
you'll need to get INPA or something like it to bleed the ABS/DSC systems as well.
INPA?

I see there are instructions on this site on how to bleed the master. I guess it's worth a try after I stop being royally pissed at myself.

From this site:
If you have do indeed have air in your master cylinder than try bleeding via the DSC/ABS unit (Point A & D). Point A and D are the metal hose/tube that connects the Master Cylinder to the ABS/DSC unit.

You need at least 3 friends to do this:

FRIEND 1: Sits inside the car to press and depress pedal
Friend 2: Makes sure the master cylinder is constantly full at fills it up if neccessary.
Friend 3: Makes sure that Line A and D are submerge inside the spill bootleer

1) Twist (counter Clock Wise) A & D to remove the metal tube/hose
2) Fill up a spill bottle with brake fluid.
3) Once the metal tube/hose from A & D are loose, submerge into the spill bottle with brake fluid. key word is SUMBERGE it.
4) Follow the normal bleeding precedures when it comes to bleeding your brake. However, instead of bleeding your brake from the caliper you are doing it from the master cylinder via Line A and Line D
5) When you feel that you remove all the air pocket in the master cylinder than have your FRIEND 1 depress and hold the brake pedal.
6) While friend 1 is holding the brake pedal have Friend 3 quickly secure LINE A and Line D back into the ABS/DSC unit
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:15 AM   #5
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People get all wrapped around the axle when it comes to ABS and bleeding.

Keep in mind, the ABS system is an "OVERLAY" on the brake system. The system actually bleeds off fluid from the brake lines while it is functioning, the pump is to keep the pedal pressure static and to refill and keep a constant pressure on the brake lines while fluid is being bleed off to the wheels that need to slip. You can unplug all the wiring to the ABS system and the brakes will still work "Old School".

There should be little to no reason to worry about bleeding the ABS system in this case. The master cylinder is not so hard to bleed. I would fill the system and allow it to gravity bleed/flush first. I would focus on the side that was leaking. Once the brake fluid has been "gravity" bleed/flushed, you can bleed the master cylinder as needed by using the same pump and hold method and then just crack a line leaving the master cylinder, then repeat as needed.

Once the master cylinder appears to be free of air, then do the same old school method of brake bleeding with pump and hold with a helper.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:25 AM   #6
Boolala
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
People get all wrapped around the axle when it comes to ABS and bleeding.

Keep in mind, the ABS system is an "OVERLAY" on the brake system. The system actually bleeds off fluid from the brake lines while it is functioning, the pump is to keep the pedal pressure static and to refill and keep a constant pressure on the brake lines while fluid is being bleed off to the wheels that need to slip. You can unplug all the wiring to the ABS system and the brakes will still work "Old School".

There should be little to no reason to worry about bleeding the ABS system in this case. The master cylinder is not so hard to bleed. I would fill the system and allow it to gravity bleed/flush first. I would focus on the side that was leaking. Once the brake fluid has been "gravity" bleed/flushed, you can bleed the master cylinder as needed by using the same pump and hold method and then just crack a line leaving the master cylinder, then repeat as needed.

Once the master cylinder appears to be free of air, then do the same old school method of brake bleeding with pump and hold with a helper.
Thanks for this. 1 more question, should I do this before, after or while drinking?
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:40 AM   #7
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Glad to hear everyone is okay, and it sounds like you have a pretty good daughter there who had the peace of mind to use the e-brake to stop the car when the brakes were failing, instead of screaming and uselessly freaking out in that situation.

Mistakes happen, lessons are learned.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:42 AM   #8
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Thanks for this. 1 more question, should I do this before, after or while drinking?
Depends on how many times you want to do it.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:53 AM   #9
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Old school hint on the ABS, generally more for flushing than bleeding though...

After flushing the lines (which you have now cleverly done), bleed the brakes and then take the car someplace safe and do several "panic" stops engaging the ABS. The ABS pump will pump it's fluid into the braking system while filling itself with fresh fluid. Now reflush. Reflushing should take less time since all you're flushing is the fluid that was previously on the ABS pump.

Takes more time than using software to open the ABS pump, but doable.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:16 PM   #10
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the title of this thread is hilarious
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:31 PM   #11
Boolala
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I always try to have a good title so others look.

So how does one know and what are the symptoms of air in the master cylinder? I just bled the brakes for over an hour hitting each caliper 4 times and then took it out for a drive and it feels nice and have full brakes (oh and this time I made damn sure all Zerk fittings are tight and tools are away). UGH!

NO lights on dash and no codes thrown either. Did I get lucky and just maybe, maybe the master didn't run dry just sitting in my garage over night??? I would say I had about a pint of fluid on the ground but that is hard to tell when it's just all over the floor. The rear left Zerk fitting was just a tad loose and not fully loose. Maybe I got lucky and I'll have to come up with another reason to drink!
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:05 PM   #12
Alex323Ci
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it sounds like you're ok with how it was refilled and bled again.

i would take it out for a spin doing some braking and brake holding and then check the level. even then i would still probably do a light semi-flush bleed for any residual air hiding in the system.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:48 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by evanr614 View Post
the title of this thread is hilarious
Dude
You need
To take a brake
All of the time
All day and all of the night
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