E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 72 votes, 4.94 average.
Old 02-03-2008, 08:15 PM   #181
silver330ciman
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Almost So Cal...
Posts: 562
My Ride: TiAg 330CI TS1
Just installed my seals and changed out the gasket. I also have positive results to report. I wasn't lacking much power 3k-6k rpm range, and didn't think I'd notice any difference with a SC installed. After changing the seals, I felt like I recovered some significant amount of torque downlow. Prior to the change, my car bogged down when I shifted to 3rd below 3k rpms, but now, the car has no problem pulling hard even at that range with minimal boost! I'll take this improvement for $60 anyday! Thanks again for coming up with this solution!
__________________

Sig by hi its me alec
silver330ciman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 09:29 AM   #182
Hutch323T
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 5
My Ride: 323 iT/330i
One more testimony for VANOS seal replacement!

I really don't want to reply to this thread - it has gotten very long and cumbersome. However, I replaced the VANOS seals on my wife's '00 323iT (95K miles)this past Saturday and felt compelled to add a 'witness' to the seal kit and the instructions - basically excellent and excellent.

I assembled all the tools and optional parts (replaced the valve cover gasket and stud grommets at the same time). To make bending over the car easier (my back is not as young as it used to be), I drove the car up on ramps, chocked the back wheels and went to work.

This was an easy DIY. The only hiccup I experienced during the entire process was the connector to the cam position sensor - for some reason the rubber portion of the connector was disintegrating, so I just removed the sensor from the VANOS while I worked on it. This was one more instance of rubber components failing in the harsh under-hood environment.

The only way to appreciated how flat and brittle the seals had become is to take them out and look at them. They felt like hard plastic - no elasticity at all - and had lost all radius. The pistons were so loose, the VANOS unit would have made a good maraca!!

Once reassembled, the car fired up on the first turn of the key and never stumbled once. I am going to drive it this week for the break-in period. We purchased the car pre-owned and I don't think it has run this smooth since we had it. There has been no sudden revival of power (it is a wagon with a 2.5L engine - let's be real). but, the smoothness of idle and power delivery was well worth the effort. And if it eventually restores some lost torque and HP, well, that's just the gravy. BTW, it was a great opportunity to check for valve train gunk - happy to report the previous owner was more diligent than BMW recommends at changing the oil - what a work of art these engines are inside!

If you have a BMW I6 VANOS engine with miles on it, I would recommend doing this DIY as PM. Next week I'm going to do my '02 330i.

Rick
Hutch323T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 10:11 AM   #183
Polish_328Ci
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,453
My Ride: M3
Damn I have to do this so bad but it's still quite cold and no garage here

*edit*
Well I bought the seals so we'll see once I get a warmth spot.
__________________

Last edited by Polish_328Ci; 02-04-2008 at 10:51 AM.
Polish_328Ci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2008, 11:01 AM   #184
abeaujuin
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 215
My Ride: BMW?
No cold start issue...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MatthewLFD View Post
First off, thank you for answering all the questions related to your product, it really does put me at ease.

I plan on buying this kit for peace of mind when it warms up above freezing temps so I can do the install, but I wanted to double check on a few things.

I am experiencing loss of low end power, and my engine has just under 50k...so I can assume the new seals will help. My question is this...I have no cold start issue whatsoever, and the car has never stalled on me, but when it's warmed up and I let it just idle, the RPM will dip from 650ish to maybe 600ish and cause a slight vibration. The vibration only lasts for a second and comes on every minute or so. I also have the same mild vibration at exactly 2000rpm under load (not free-reving the engine). Have you seen this problem attributed to bad VANOS seals?
I didn't have the cold start issue either, that's what took me so long to replace this part. Well worth it now. I am in love with my car again.
abeaujuin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2008, 09:27 AM   #185
BONESTOCK
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sharon, MA
Posts: 163
My Ride: 2000 328Ci
subscribing. I need to read this thread.
__________________
2000 328Ci Steel Grey Metallic 5 speed.
BONESTOCK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2008, 10:22 AM   #186
NiceRideENT
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 745
My Ride: 01 330Ci - Step
What excatly is in this kit. I already order my valve cover gasket, and rubber washer for the bolts. All I need now is this kit and that is it? Do I need any other gasket? is there a gasket needed to replace when I remove and install the gasket back? or this kit comes with that gasket?
NiceRideENT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2008, 11:05 AM   #187
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,275
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrSurfer330Ci View Post
What excatly is in this kit. I already order my valve cover gasket, and rubber washer for the bolts. All I need now is this kit and that is it? Do I need any other gasket? is there a gasket needed to replace when I remove and install the gasket back? or this kit comes with that gasket?
You still need to acquire the vanos gasket and 2 oil hose washers. These parts are listed in the vanos procedure with part numbers. Parts with a BMW part number are acquired from a BMW dealership.
The Beisan seals kit only has the seals.
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2008, 12:02 PM   #188
NiceRideENT
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 745
My Ride: 01 330Ci - Step
Thanks....

I just place my order for the seals.

Last edited by NiceRideENT; 02-07-2008 at 12:05 PM.
NiceRideENT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2008, 12:11 PM   #189
BONESTOCK
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sharon, MA
Posts: 163
My Ride: 2000 328Ci
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
You still need to acquire the vanos gasket and 2 oil hose washers. These parts are listed in the vanos procedure with part numbers. Parts with a BMW part number are acquired from a BMW dealership.
The Beisan seals kit only has the seals.
Your the freakin man!! I'll be putting my order in over the weekend!
__________________
2000 328Ci Steel Grey Metallic 5 speed.
BONESTOCK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 10:02 PM   #190
FSUmac
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 58
My Ride: 2001 330i
Just ordered the seals kit!

If I have questions about some of the steps in the DIY, should I ask them here or is there somewhere else that would be better?

Thanks,

Mac
__________________
FSUmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 02:32 PM   #191
BMWintoxication
Taiwan/Vancouver/Shanghai
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: currently: Shanghai
Posts: 2,399
My Ride: Jet Black02' 325ci
Send a message via AIM to BMWintoxication Send a message via MSN to BMWintoxication
humm.. valuable info
__________________


Orz
BMWintoxication is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 02:35 PM   #192
vaio76109
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 8,831
My Ride: Race Cars
Quote:
Originally Posted by FSUmac View Post
Just ordered the seals kit!

If I have questions about some of the steps in the DIY, should I ask them here or is there somewhere else that would be better?

Thanks,

Mac
I might be able to help, what do you need to know?
vaio76109 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 04:29 PM   #193
GWU_Greek
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: KY
Posts: 185
My Ride: 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by FSUmac View Post
Just ordered the seals kit!

If I have questions about some of the steps in the DIY, should I ask them here or is there somewhere else that would be better?

Thanks,

Mac
If you are willing to drive to Oakgrove, KY then I am willing to help you with your DIY
GWU_Greek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 05:42 PM   #194
Gorkkon
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 27
My Ride: 328Ci
Many have already posted their experience on the topic, but thought I would add a few comments here too.

I have a '00 328Ci with 96K miles. Seldom do I have the cold start idle issue as my car spends most nights in the garage in a fairly mild part of the country. I have seen the problem when leaving airport parking after the car has been outside in the cold for several days, but this doesn't happen often.

A few months back I started smelling burnt oil when driving. Upon inspection I noticed that my valve cover gasket was starting to leak down onto the exhaust manifold. I determined it was time to replace the gasket and would go ahead with the vanos seal replacement while I had things apart. Upon taking the valve cover off I noticed that the gasket around the cover and at the spark plugs was extremely brittle -- these were apparently all original. (If your car is getting this many miles on it you may look to replace your valve cover gasket and grommets soon.) The DIY instructions for disassembly were spot on and made the job go much faster and easier than I expected. While at it I decided to replace the pre-CAT oxygen sensors as they are slightly easier to get to with the valve cover out of the way, and are due for replacement at 100K anyway.

As for the condition of the vanos seals, they were extremely brittle and the intake vanos piston moved up and down inside the cylinder with little effort. Upon replacing the seals and reinserting the pistons, the pistons took greater force to move, but seemed to move as they should, with the intake piston taking slightly more force to move even though the seal seemed to be installed exactly the same. I believe the trickiest part of the who project was knowing when the seals had seated properly enough to reassemble everything. Upon reassembly the car started with a minor hiccup.

The most noticeable change on the test drive was the smooth delivery of power -- the engine revs much more smoothly now. I would agree that the engine also feels a slight bit stronger through acceleration but, and I may be imagining this, the engine seems to rev slightly slower than it did before. I attribute this to the need for the vanos seals to "break-in" and will comment back later.

The bottom line: The DIY write-up is excellent. Power delivery of the engine seems much smoother (like a BMW). The cold start idle issue isn't much of an issue for me, but will be a nice benefit. The slightly slower rev of the engine may be in my head, but is likely attributed to the need for the seals to break-in. Overall I am very pleased.

Thanks Rajaie!
Gorkkon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 05:47 PM   #195
FSUmac
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 58
My Ride: 2001 330i
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWU_Greek View Post
If you are willing to drive to Oakgrove, KY then I am willing to help you with your DIY
Thanks for the offer. I will compile a list of questions and post them in here. Nothing major, just a few clarifications on some of the steps.
__________________
FSUmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 07:15 PM   #196
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,275
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by FSUmac View Post
Just ordered the seals kit!

If I have questions about some of the steps in the DIY, should I ask them here or is there somewhere else that would be better?

Thanks,

Mac
You are welcome to ask me any questions. Email me at rajaie@beisansystems.com
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 07:23 PM   #197
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,275
My Ride: 528i 06/00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorkkon View Post
Many have already posted their experience on the topic, but thought I would add a few comments here too.

I have a '00 328Ci with 96K miles. Seldom do I have the cold start idle issue as my car spends most nights in the garage in a fairly mild part of the country. I have seen the problem when leaving airport parking after the car has been outside in the cold for several days, but this doesn't happen often.

A few months back I started smelling burnt oil when driving. Upon inspection I noticed that my valve cover gasket was starting to leak down onto the exhaust manifold. I determined it was time to replace the gasket and would go ahead with the vanos seal replacement while I had things apart. Upon taking the valve cover off I noticed that the gasket around the cover and at the spark plugs was extremely brittle -- these were apparently all original. (If your car is getting this many miles on it you may look to replace your valve cover gasket and grommets soon.) The DIY instructions for disassembly were spot on and made the job go much faster and easier than I expected. While at it I decided to replace the pre-CAT oxygen sensors as they are slightly easier to get to with the valve cover out of the way, and are due for replacement at 100K anyway.

As for the condition of the vanos seals, they were extremely brittle and the intake vanos piston moved up and down inside the cylinder with little effort. Upon replacing the seals and reinserting the pistons, the pistons took greater force to move, but seemed to move as they should, with the intake piston taking slightly more force to move even though the seal seemed to be installed exactly the same. I believe the trickiest part of the who project was knowing when the seals had seated properly enough to reassemble everything. Upon reassembly the car started with a minor hiccup.

The most noticeable change on the test drive was the smooth delivery of power -- the engine revs much more smoothly now. I would agree that the engine also feels a slight bit stronger through acceleration but, and I may be imagining this, the engine seems to rev slightly slower than it did before. I attribute this to the need for the vanos seals to "break-in" and will comment back later.

The bottom line: The DIY write-up is excellent. Power delivery of the engine seems much smoother (like a BMW). The cold start idle issue isn't much of an issue for me, but will be a nice benefit. The slightly slower rev of the engine may be in my head, but is likely attributed to the need for the seals to break-in. Overall I am very pleased.

Thanks Rajaie!
Thanks for the feedback. It's appreciated.

There are slight improvements in performance immediately after the repair, but the major improvements come when the seals break-in. This can come at a sudden. If you drive the car hard (fast RPM travel) this can happen is 200 miles. If you take it easy, it can take 700+ miles.

Please provide feedback when the seals break-in. You'll know.
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 09:11 PM   #198
FSUmac
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 58
My Ride: 2001 330i
Alright, here are some questions:

Direction from the DIY will be shown in Italics.

1. Remove coil harness ground wire from valve cover bolt/stud located between coils 2 & 3 (8mm socket 1/4 / 1/4 ratchet & extension, magnet pickup). Loosen cylinder 3 coil mounting bolts as needed to move coil to side to facilitate tool access.
Disconnect coil harness rail from valve cover clips. Push down and out on top of coil harness rail to dislodge from valve cover clips
Pull off complete coil harness and set back on strut tower.


What is the coil harness rail? Is that the rail where all the plugs are coming out of?


2. Old design: If present, remove valve cover rear left corner silver metal cover. Pull cover strait up while wiggling side to side.
Note: Silver metal cover is difficult to remove and easily breaks. Its function is to hold down cables to facilitate easier installation of engine top cover. Its presence is not necessary.


Is that the silver plate that goes along the spark plug holes that is pictured? If so, it looks like it is still present in subsequent pictures in the DIY.


3. If we do the recommended step of boiling the seals before installation, we do not have to install them first and then remove and boil and then install again, right?


4. Rotate piston to be flush with cylinder. As piston is rotated, excess seal protruding from piston groove will be collected and pressed into piston groove.
Note: Be sure to rotate lower piston end up, so seal does not bind at cylinder bottom edge.


For some reason, I am having trouble visualizing what you are trying to say int he note there.


5. Install pre-cat O2 sensor electrical connectors and cables and secondary air valve vacuum hose at exhaust side brackets and metal clip.
Install cables and electric boot into valve cover rear left corner bracket. Align cables and hose into valve cover bracket and install electrical boot on top of cables.


I assume we need to unplug all of these to remove the valve cover at the start?


6. Check and replenish coolant fluid.
Drive car until warm. Slightly open each bleed screw and allow air to escape (Philips). Close bleed screw when only fluid is escaping. There is a bleed screw at the coolant expansion tank and a bleed screw at the radiator upper hose.
When car is fully cold (morning) open coolant expansion tank and check coolant level. Measuring sick top should be at expansion tank cap rim. Fill coolant as needed.
Repeat fill and bleed procedure as needed to achieve proper coolant level.


Which step of the procedure causes the cooland loss?


7. At which step do you use the two vanos washers? On the front cover bolts?


8. Lastly, did you cover up the engine while you were away working on the vanos?


Thanks! I can't wait to do this and see the results. My engine has been bogging at low RPM's for several months now.
__________________
FSUmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 09:45 PM   #199
Rajaie
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,275
My Ride: 528i 06/00
The one answer for all these questions is, it will be apparent when you reach that point in the repair.

I will answer each question below.


Direction from the DIY will be shown in Italics.

1. Remove coil harness ground wire from valve cover bolt/stud located between coils 2 & 3 (8mm socket 1/4" / 1/4" ratchet & extension, magnet pickup). Loosen cylinder 3 coil mounting bolts as needed to move coil to side to facilitate tool access.
Disconnect coil harness rail from valve cover clips. Push down and out on top of coil harness rail to dislodge from valve cover clips
Pull off complete coil harness and set back on strut tower.


What is the coil harness rail? Is that the rail where all the plugs are coming out of?

That's correct

2. Old design: If present, remove valve cover rear left corner silver metal cover. Pull cover strait up while wiggling side to side.
Note: Silver metal cover is difficult to remove and easily breaks. Its function is to hold down cables to facilitate easier installation of engine top cover. Its presence is not necessary.


Is that the silver plate that goes along the spark plug holes that is pictured? If so, it looks like it is still present in subsequent pictures in the DIY.

No, this small cover is found at the rear left corner of the valve cover. I've recently taken a picture of one and will be adding it to the procedure.
This small metal cover is of no consequence.


3. If we do the recommended step of boiling the seals before installation, we do not have to install them first and then remove and boil and then install again, right?

That's correct. You just place the Teflon seals in the water after its been boiled and off the stove (not during). Then remove them from the water and install them. The heat helps make the seals more pliable and easier to stretch. This is not really necessary, and I'm considering removing it from the procedure.

4. Rotate piston to be flush with cylinder. As piston is rotated, excess seal protruding from piston groove will be collected and pressed into piston groove.
Note: Be sure to rotate lower piston end up, so seal does not bind at cylinder bottom edge.


For some reason, I am having trouble visualizing what you are trying to say int he note there.

You'll know when you get there.

5. Install pre-cat O2 sensor electrical connectors and cables and secondary air valve vacuum hose at exhaust side brackets and metal clip.
Install cables and electric boot into valve cover rear left corner bracket. Align cables and hose into valve cover bracket and install electrical boot on top of cables.


I assume we need to unplug all of these to remove the valve cover at the start?

That's correct. It's in the instructions.

6. Check and replenish coolant fluid.
Drive car until warm. Slightly open each bleed screw and allow air to escape (Philips). Close bleed screw when only fluid is escaping. There is a bleed screw at the coolant expansion tank and a bleed screw at the radiator upper hose.
When car is fully cold (morning) open coolant expansion tank and check coolant level. Measuring sick top should be at expansion tank cap rim. Fill coolant as needed.
Repeat fill and bleed procedure as needed to achieve proper coolant level.


Which step of the procedure causes the cooland loss?

When you remove the coolant overflow hose at the top of the radiator. Also when removing and installing the auxiliary water pump mounted at the bottom of the fan shroud.

7. At which step do you use the two vanos washers? On the front cover bolts?

The washers are used when mounting the vanos oil hose.

8. Lastly, did you cover up the engine while you were away working on the vanos?

There is no need to cover up the engine. You can if you like.

Thanks! I can't wait to do this and see the results. My engine has been bogging at low RPM's for several months now.

Hope this helps. Good luck on the repair.
You can call me at the phone number provided on the Beisan website.

Last edited by Rajaie; 02-13-2008 at 10:39 PM.
Rajaie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2008, 09:35 AM   #200
Toxic0n
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 703
My Ride: E46 M3 6MT
Just placed my order, will report when I get around to installing these.
__________________

Ground Control Street/School coilovers, 19" HRE 441R wheels, ACS exhaust
2DIN touchscreen carputer, Bimmian CF E-brake handle, Titanium CF Trim, Illuminated ZHP knob, BMW Performance SSK, 2-way Compustar
Clear turn signals, LED license plate lights, LED tails, 3000k HID fogs, angel eyes, matte grills, CF Emblems etc
Toxic0n is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
vanos

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use