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Old 09-26-2011, 04:29 PM   #2001
Rubenk
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Congrats on the repair!
Great you're receiving nice performance improvements!

The vanos cylinder cover gaskets aren't available separately. These are also metal and are in good condition. Any slight leak from these gaskets is not relevant as the cylinder oil chambers are constantly refreshed at ~200Hz with a PMW (pulse width modulation) signal.

Enjoy the new ride!
Answers my question exactly! When I was examining them, I didnt think it would matter. Glad I assumed correctly.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:33 PM   #2002
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Does anyone know what the newest MS43 (2002 330i) DME software is? And how do you find out which software version you have?
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:30 PM   #2003
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I would also like to know, and also how to go about updating the software on my car
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:47 PM   #2004
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Does anyone know what the newest MS43 (2002 330i) DME software is? And how do you find out which software version you have?
Quote:
Originally Posted by association16 View Post
I would also like to know, and also how to go about updating the software on my car
These should have their own thread. Lets keep this discussion VANOS-related!
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:16 PM   #2005
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Hello there

I have allready make about 250 km from the installation of the vanos seals,i'll do about 100 more to make the tests i want and to see if there is really any improvement.I'm not negative to the product,but i can not stand only to the feeling.
Yes there is a better throttle response,but this is because the DME has reset the electric gas pedal....we had take off the battery...so simple

As i have wrote to Rajaie,my problem wasnt so bad as i read here (cold starts etc) but in test vanos ,exhaust and intake vanos where way out of the limits (-5 to +5 are the limits) and at the range 3000-5000 rpm,an exact same car as mine (compact 325ti) with a lot less km on the engine and same everything else...was ahead of me ..Because i have work in a bmw dealer service,i have check repeatedly the car and the engine,my only problem was the vanos from vanos test as i said before (and that i hate to be behind on a friendly race )

So i'll keep this thread updated with the results when the time comes.I trully believe in this product and i hope that everything will be fine and not a disappointment,because bmw has stopped produces the old part number of vanos and the new one costs the double (750 euros to be exact)
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:19 PM   #2006
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Does anyone know what the newest MS43 (2002 330i) DME software is? And how do you find out which software version you have?


The newest US MS43 DME version is 7571613
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:13 PM   #2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geo_2_2003 View Post
Hello there

I have allready make about 250 km from the installation of the vanos seals,i'll do about 100 more to make the tests i want and to see if there is really any improvement.I'm not negative to the product,but i can not stand only to the feeling.
Yes there is a better throttle response,but this is because the DME has reset the electric gas pedal....we had take off the battery...so simple

As i have wrote to Rajaie,my problem wasnt so bad as i read here (cold starts etc) but in test vanos ,exhaust and intake vanos where way out of the limits (-5 to +5 are the limits) and at the range 3000-5000 rpm,an exact same car as mine (compact 325ti) with a lot less km on the engine and same everything else...was ahead of me ..Because i have work in a bmw dealer service,i have check repeatedly the car and the engine,my only problem was the vanos from vanos test as i said before (and that i hate to be behind on a friendly race )

So i'll keep this thread updated with the results when the time comes.I trully believe in this product and i hope that everything will be fine and not a disappointment,because bmw has stopped produces the old part number of vanos and the new one costs the double (750 euros to be exact)
change the pistons of the sonedoids,the new ones has a longer and harder spring,bmw has update this parts
i have change them,clean the camshaft sensors and the cange the vanos seals,now my 325 goes like a beast
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:44 PM   #2008
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change the pistons of the sonedoids,the new ones has a longer and harder spring,bmw has update this parts
i have change them,clean the camshaft sensors and the cange the vanos seals,now my 325 goes like a beast
I think you mean solenoids,but still i am confused about what exactly are you trying to tell me...solenoids dont have pistons and springs...Do you meen the vanos pistons or something else???Can you show me from here www.bmwfans.info what is the part that you say you change??

Also,have you ever done a vanos test before and after the change of the parts that you say you did?

Thanks!

EDIT: Do you mean you change parts No.2,3,4????
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:14 PM   #2009
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N.4 bmw has update it,for 50-60 euros you can buy all 2 pistons,i have change them in my 325ci firstly than i change the vanos seals and i had benefits
i hasen't no one time vanos troubles,but i update the parts+the vanos seals my car goes more better
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:32 PM   #2010
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Originally Posted by geo_2_2003 View Post
I think you mean solenoids,but still i am confused about what exactly are you trying to tell me...solenoids dont have pistons and springs...Do you meen the vanos pistons or something else???Can you show me from here www.bmwfans.info what is the part that you say you change??

Also,have you ever done a vanos test before and after the change of the parts that you say you did?

Thanks!

EDIT: Do you mean you change parts No.2,3,4????
Parts 3 & 4 specifically.
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:45 AM   #2011
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:21 AM   #2012
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I've got around 800 miles since my repair and my fuel mileage has increased back to its original amount of around 30+ highway mpg. That was my main purpose for doing this repair and i'm glad it worked.

However, I do have an occasional "hiccup" that I dont believe was there before, do you think this is related to the VANOS repair? Or is there something else I should service to remedy the problem? No SES light has been tripped, but I have not checked for codes yet.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:38 AM   #2013
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Originally Posted by Rubenk View Post
I've got around 800 miles since my repair and my fuel mileage has increased back to its original amount of around 30+ highway mpg. That was my main purpose for doing this repair and i'm glad it worked.

However, I do have an occasional "hiccup" that I dont believe was there before, do you think this is related to the VANOS repair? Or is there something else I should service to remedy the problem? No SES light has been tripped, but I have not checked for codes yet.
Congrats on the repair and the fuel consumption improvement!

A hiccup due to the seals repair is not a common complaint.
You might try cleaning and tightening the vanos solenoid cable connector pin receptacles. Here's a thread about this.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=856781

Here is a list of common performance problems. See if you have a problem in this list.

The idle control valve air intake boot branch gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys. This can be inspected with a flashlight and mirror.

The idle control valve gets gummed up and sticks. Take it out and clean it with brake cleaner and towels.

The DISA valve is problematic on 01+ 3.0l cars.
The DISA is a black box 4" high 6" wide on the side of the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF. Remove it. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. It shouldn't have any play. It breaks at its base axis. If itís broken, the flap end axis pin can be removed and the flap will fall off.
The 01+ DISA has a base gasket built into the DISA. It shrinks over time and creates a small vacuum leak. Place an 8" piece of electrical tape on a table top. Cut the tape half width with a razor knife. Place one layer of half width electrical tape over the base gasket. This will thicken the gasket and create a tight seal with the intake manifold.

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.
At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1Ē, the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.
With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hose. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you donít hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses.

The MAF sensor can be dirty and not perform well or can be failing. After market oiled air filters foul the MAF.
Take out the MAF and clean it with CRC MAF spray cleaner. Spray the MAF lightly. There are delicate wires that can be damaged. Let the MAF fully dry before reconnecting.
Cold air intake setups can drive the MAF beyond its intended operating limits and cause it to fail.
The MAF can be tested by disconnecting its electrical cable connector. If the performance problem resolves it might be the MAF. But this test can be deceiving and should be used with great care. When the MAF is disconnected the DME will err on enriching the air/fuel mix. This can easily cover up another performance problem like a vacuum leak. If the problem is unchanged after disconnecting the MAF the problem is not the MAF.
Aftermarket MAF sensors donít work.

The fuel filter gets clogged and inhibits the flow of fuel. Replace it every 60-100k miles.

Sparkplugs should be replaced every 60k miles.

Replace air filter every 15k miles.

Pre-cat O2 sensors have a lifespan of 100k miles. They have a significant effect on fuel consumption. They also affect performance. When they start degrading they cause a rich air/fuel mix. This will degrade performance some but will not cause any rough running symptoms. The main symptom is degraded fuel consumption.
The pre-cat O2 sensors are not used on cold weather cold start. The O2 sensors donít function when cold and are thus not utilized by the DME.
Aftermarket O2 sensors donít work.

Camshaft position sensors can fail and cause problems. They will usually produce a code, but they might initially malfunction without producing a code. A failing exhaust CPS will cause light performance problems. A failing intake CPS can cause significant performance problems.
Aftermarket CPS sensors donít work. OEM CPS sensors are only available through BMW. OEM CPS sensors have a BMW logo or series of numbers and this can be used to check if a CPS sensor is OEM.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:46 AM   #2014
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Thanks Raj! And thanks for continually responding to this thread!

I have fresh spark plugs, fuel filter, and oil change. I've checked for vacuum leaks with no findings.

The car runs flawless, except for that occasional hiccup or blip when accelerating. It isnt constant, and I cant replicate it on demand. I'll check the solenoid cable and report back my findings. Should I rebuild the solenoids involved as well?
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:06 AM   #2015
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Originally Posted by Rubenk View Post
Thanks Raj! And thanks for continually responding to this thread!

I have fresh spark plugs, fuel filter, and oil change. I've checked for vacuum leaks with no findings.

The car runs flawless, except for that occasional hiccup or blip when accelerating. It isnt constant, and I cant replicate it on demand. I'll check the solenoid cable and report back my findings. Should I rebuild the solenoids involved as well?
No Need to replace the solenoid or the solenoid pistons.

Hereís a clarification of the solenoid issue.
The solenoid rarely fails and when it fails there should be an electrical code.
The issue in discussion by MC 007 is the solenoid piston, #4 on the parts diagram. This has a spring and the new part has a longer/stronger spring. In some cases this piston gets sticky in the cylinder due to sludge. This happens most often on the exhaust side, but can also occur on the intake. I presume BMW strengthened this spring to overcome the sticking problem. But when the sticking occurs a code is generated and the solenoid can be removed and the piston and its cylinder can be cleaned to resolve the problem. So the problem can be resolved without the new part and there is no performance advantage from the new part that I'm aware of.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:14 AM   #2016
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Gotcha, I havent thrown a code yet, so I'll assume the solenoid is good for now.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:54 PM   #2017
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when i change the solenoids pistons i clean the camshaft sensors,pistons and sensors were very dirty

this i do firstly than i put Rajaie vanos seals and i have benefits,now with new o-rings the motor is like new
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:11 PM   #2018
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Raj:

I've got my seals and valve cover gasket. Going to do the install this weekend. I've been reading some of these posts...especially about see lights, vacuum leaks. etc. I was wondering if there is anything else you recommend changing while I'm doing the vanos seals. I've got 105k on my 328Ci.

I've done the following recently:
Complete Cooling System Replacement
Spark Plugs
Belts
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:58 PM   #2019
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Raj:

I've got my seals and valve cover gasket. Going to do the install this weekend. I've been reading some of these posts...especially about see lights, vacuum leaks. etc. I was wondering if there is anything else you recommend changing while I'm doing the vanos seals. I've got 105k on my 328Ci.

I've done the following recently:
Complete Cooling System Replacement
Spark Plugs
Belts
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Other repairs that piggyback on the vanos seals repair are, valve cover gaskets, sparkplugs, belts, idler and tensioners pulleys, cooling system, even oil filter housing gasket.
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:46 AM   #2020
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just pulled my vanos off and did the seals. very easy and straight forward.
the old seals were hardened and shrunk leaving big gaps for the pistons to leak.
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