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Old 03-18-2012, 11:42 PM   #2061
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I also bought a W155 socket from O'Reilly and it didn't fit. It looks like it is deep enough but the round bore at the end of the socket (beyond the 6-sided part) is not big enough to fit over the end of the solenoid. If I could bore it out it would probably work, but since I'm not getting any error codes I gave up on cleaning the exhaust solenoid for now.

Rajaie: Is it easier to remove and clean the solenoids when the VANOS is off the car? I might be helping someone do their VANOS seals soon, and if we have the VANOS off the car i'm thinking it would be easy to remove and clean the solenoids. Or is that asking for trouble if there is no code?
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:57 PM   #2062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco View Post
I also bought a W155 socket from O'Reilly and it didn't fit. It looks like it is deep enough but the round bore at the end of the socket (beyond the 6-sided part) is not big enough to fit over the end of the solenoid. If I could bore it out it would probably work, but since I'm not getting any error codes I gave up on cleaning the exhaust solenoid for now.

Rajaie: Is it easier to remove and clean the solenoids when the VANOS is off the car? I might be helping someone do their VANOS seals soon, and if we have the VANOS off the car i'm thinking it would be easy to remove and clean the solenoids. Or is that asking for trouble if there is no code?
If you're not getting a code I think it's not worth doing it.
From experience a very slight sticking causes a code. So if there is no code the piston is likely moving very smoothly and doesn't need cleaning.
Removing the solenoid with the vanos off the car is not easy. It needs to be mounted in a vise to counter hold it and thus can easily be damaged.

Is the socket you have stamped or labeled W155?
The stamped W155 I have fits just enough over the solenoid hex to allow turning it.
I guess the CarQuest brand is the safe bet.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:00 AM   #2063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
If you're not getting a code I think it's not worth doing it.
From experience a very slight sticking causes a code. So if there is no code the piston is likely moving very smoothly and doesn't need cleaning.
Removing the solenoid with the vanos off the car is not easy. It needs to be mounted in a vise to counter hold it and thus can easily be damaged.

Is the socket you have stamped or labeled W155?
The stamped W155 I have fits just enough over the solenoid hex to allow turning it.
I guess the CarQuest brand is the safe bet.
Just for you I'm going remove my intake solenoid and take a picture with my W155 on it and show that it's not long enough. Do you still think the exhaust solenoid potentially being dirty is causing my repeated CPS exh code? I hope so, I've tried everything else. The only thing left is the spark plugs and/or fuel filter but who knows what difference that'll make, I've checked the wiring as well already.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:05 AM   #2064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
Just for you I'm going remove my intake solenoid and take a picture with my W155 on it and show that it's not long enough. Do you still think the exhaust solenoid potentially being dirty is causing my repeated CPS exh code? I hope so, I've tried everything else. The only thing left is the spark plugs and/or fuel filter but who knows what difference that'll make, I've checked the wiring as well already.
Try cleaning the solenoid piston and we'll see form there.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:12 PM   #2065
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I took both solenoids off and cleaned around them. I swapped the intake and exhaust solenoid and the recurring CPS EXHAUST code still exists. Any more suggestions .

1) Installed Genuine BMW Sensor
2) Installed Vanos Seals
3) Cleaned and swapped solenoids and cleaned pistons
4) Tested wire harness for correct voltage

I hope that BMW tucson didn't give me a bad sensor....

Last edited by Xiph0s; 03-20-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:26 PM   #2066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
I took both solenoids off and cleaned around them. I swapped the intake and exhaust solenoid and the recurring CPS EXHAUST code still exists. Any more suggestions .

1) Installed Genuine BMW Sensor
2) Installed Vanos Seals
3) Cleaned and swapped solenoids and cleaned pistons
4) Tested wire harness for correct voltage

I hope that BMW tucson didn't give me a bad sensor....
What is the history on this code?
Did it just pop up one day out of the blue? Was it coincident with something? Did you buy the car with this code already there?

So what socket worked?
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:29 PM   #2067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
What is the history on this code?
Did it just pop up one day out of the blue? Was it coincident with something? Did you buy the car with this code already there?

So what socket worked?
1) I bought the car with the code, so I'm not sure of its history

2) CarQuest AND W155 did not work. Go to lowes/home depot and get a Shower Valve Wrench Set (I went to harbor freight -- yay 10 bucks) and use size 1 11/32 and it comes right off.


Either I have horrible luck and the genuine sensor is bad...or ....what. I'm truthfully getting discouraged lol. I've tried everything.

EDIT:
I think the exhaust camshaft sensor is the same on my 2004 X3, I'm gonna swap that in and see what happens tomorrow.

Last edited by Xiph0s; 03-20-2012 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #2068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
1) I bought the car with the code, so I'm not sure of its history

2) CarQuest AND W155 did not work. Go to lowes/home depot and get a Shower Valve Wrench Set (I went to harbor freight -- yay 10 bucks) and use size 1 11/32 and it comes right off.


Either I have horrible luck and the genuine sensor is bad...or ....what. I'm truthfully getting discouraged lol. I've tried everything.

EDIT:
I think the exhaust camshaft sensor is the same on my 2004 X3, I'm gonna swap that in and see what happens tomorrow.
What car/year is this?

The problem is likely due to engine timing.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:44 PM   #2069
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
What car/year is this?

The problem is likely due to engine timing.
2000 323i
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:47 PM   #2070
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Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
2000 323i
You need to have someone tear down the sprocket components and make sure all is intact and reset the timing.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:51 PM   #2071
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Do you have a DIY on this, for setting the timing that is. TDC and camshaft positioning etc.

EDIT:

I hope it's not this, the car drives perfectly fine , just trying to get this light off for
emissions purposes lol

Last edited by Xiph0s; 03-21-2012 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:04 AM   #2072
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Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
Do you have a DIY on this, for setting the timing that is. TDC and camshaft positioning etc.
Take a look at these TIS camshaft procedures.
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/e46/32...ngine/camshaft
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:25 AM   #2073
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Think it could be caused by a faulty crankshaft sensor? That's listed in the problem tree of the camshaft code as well.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:12 AM   #2074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
Think it could be caused by a faulty crankshaft sensor? That's listed in the problem tree of the camshaft code as well.
I would expect you would also have a code for the crank position sensor.

You can do a rudimentary timing check. Follow the timing locking procedure in the single vanos procedure. Remove the fan/shroud, cabin filter housing, valve cover, and lock the timing. If the camshaft locking blocks don't lay flat on the engine head then the timing is off.
But if the blocks do line up the timing could still be wrong as the exhaust timing wheel could be off or maybe the relationship of the two sprockets is wrong or something else.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:21 AM   #2075
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So your saying timing that's slightly off can cause this problem? Man. Bummer -- I read on the M3 forums that some guy had a similar issue.
He fixed his timing and the problem still wasn't fixed. Damn phantom code -- the car drives perfectly
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:40 AM   #2076
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Originally Posted by Xiph0s View Post
So your saying timing that's slightly off can cause this problem? Man. Bummer -- I read on the M3 forums that some guy had a similar issue.
He fixed his timing and the problem still wasn't fixed. Damn phantom code -- the car drives perfectly
That's what I expect.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:17 PM   #2077
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Awesome thread and info!

I have a 2000 automatic 323ci that I think is experiencing this issue. Basically the car is really sluggish in low RPM range, but once over 3k or so, it picks up like it should. Then, when I'm driving the car and I come to a stop, there's about a 75% chance the jolt will happen at idle. Sometimes it just jolts once really quick and then idles like normal, sometimes it will continue to jolt several times. On those occasions, putting the car in neutral sometimes helps, but there have been times where the jolt will happen if the car is in neutral as well.

I tried to take a video of it on my way home from work last night, but the jolt was a very minor one. Sorry for the poor quality, but the important part that shows the jolt is pretty clear and the camera steadies when I come to a stop.

The jolt happens at about 0:13



I know it looks minor and it's just the needle dipping, but when you're sitting in the car, you feel the whole car shake from the jolt in the motor. Also, I have no SES light on or any codes when running a PEAK or OBD reader.

Does this look like a symptom of this Vanos seal issue?

Thanks for your time!
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Last edited by TKC; 03-21-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:38 PM   #2078
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Originally Posted by TKC View Post
Awesome thread and info!

I have a 2000 automatic 323ci that I think is experiencing this issue. Basically the car is really sluggish in low RPM range, but once over 3k or so, it picks up like it should. Then, when I'm driving the car and I come to a stop, there's about a 75% chance the jolt will happen at idle. Sometimes it just jolts once really quick and then idles like normal, sometimes it will continue to jolt several times. On those occasions, putting the car in neutral sometimes helps, but there have been times where the jolt will happen if the car is in neutral as well.

I tried to take a video of it on my way home from work last night, but the jolt was a very minor one. Sorry for the poor quality, but the important part that shows the jolt is pretty clear and the camera steadies when I come to a stop.

The jolt happens at about 0:13



I know it looks minor and it's just the needle dipping, but when you're sitting in the car, you feel the whole car shake from the jolt in the motor. Also, I have no SES light on or any codes when running a PEAK or OBD reader.

Does this look like a symptom of this Vanos seal issue?

Thanks for your time!
This could be vanos seals.

Here's a list of other common performance problems.

The idle control valve air intake boot branch gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys. This can be inspected with a flashlight and mirror.

The idle control valve gets gummed up and sticks. Take it out and clean it with brake cleaner and towels.

The DISA valve is problematic on 01+ 3.0l cars.
The DISA is a black box 4" high 6" wide on the side of the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF. Remove it. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. It shouldn't have any play. It breaks at its base axis. If itís broken, the flap end axis pin can be removed and the flap will fall off.
The 01+ DISA has a base gasket built into the DISA. It shrinks over time and creates a small vacuum leak. Place an 8" piece of electrical tape on a table top. Cut the tape half width with a razor knife. Place one layer of half width electrical tape over the base gasket. This will thicken the gasket and create a tight seal with the intake manifold.

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.
At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1Ē, the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.
With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hose. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you donít hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses.

The MAF sensor can be dirty and not perform well or can be failing. After market oiled air filters foul the MAF.
Take out the MAF and clean it with CRC MAF spray cleaner. Spray the MAF lightly. There are delicate wires that can be damaged. Let the MAF fully dry before reconnecting.
Cold air intake setups can drive the MAF beyond its intended operating limits and cause it to fail.
The MAF can be tested by disconnecting its electrical cable connector. If the performance problem resolves it might be the MAF. But this test can be deceiving and should be used with great care. When the MAF is disconnected the DME will err on enriching the air/fuel mix. This can easily cover up another performance problem like a vacuum leak. If the problem is unchanged after disconnecting the MAF the problem is not the MAF.
Aftermarket MAF sensors donít work.

The fuel filter gets clogged and inhibits the flow of fuel. Replace it every 60-100k miles.

Sparkplugs should be replaced every 60k miles.

Replace air filter every 15k miles.

Pre-cat O2 sensors have a lifespan of 100k miles. They have a significant effect on fuel consumption. They also affect performance. When they start degrading they cause a rich air/fuel mix. This will degrade performance some but will not cause any rough running symptoms. The main symptom is degraded fuel consumption.
The pre-cat O2 sensors are not used on cold weather cold start. The O2 sensors donít function when cold and are thus not utilized by the DME.
Aftermarket O2 sensors donít work.

Camshaft position sensors can fail and cause problems. They will usually produce a code, but they might initially malfunction without producing a code. A failing exhaust CPS will cause light performance problems. A failing intake CPS can cause significant performance problems.
Aftermarket CPS sensors donít work. OEM CPS sensors are only available through BMW. OEM CPS sensors have a BMW logo or series of numbers and this can be used to check if a CPS sensor is OEM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:34 PM   #2079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
This could be vanos seals.

Here's a list of other common performance problems.

The idle control valve air intake boot branch gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys. This can be inspected with a flashlight and mirror.

The idle control valve gets gummed up and sticks. Take it out and clean it with brake cleaner and towels.

The DISA valve is problematic on 01+ 3.0l cars.
The DISA is a black box 4" high 6" wide on the side of the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF. Remove it. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. It shouldn't have any play. It breaks at its base axis. If itís broken, the flap end axis pin can be removed and the flap will fall off.
The 01+ DISA has a base gasket built into the DISA. It shrinks over time and creates a small vacuum leak. Place an 8" piece of electrical tape on a table top. Cut the tape half width with a razor knife. Place one layer of half width electrical tape over the base gasket. This will thicken the gasket and create a tight seal with the intake manifold.

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.
At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1Ē, the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.
With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hose. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you donít hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses.

The MAF sensor can be dirty and not perform well or can be failing. After market oiled air filters foul the MAF.
Take out the MAF and clean it with CRC MAF spray cleaner. Spray the MAF lightly. There are delicate wires that can be damaged. Let the MAF fully dry before reconnecting.
Cold air intake setups can drive the MAF beyond its intended operating limits and cause it to fail.
The MAF can be tested by disconnecting its electrical cable connector. If the performance problem resolves it might be the MAF. But this test can be deceiving and should be used with great care. When the MAF is disconnected the DME will err on enriching the air/fuel mix. This can easily cover up another performance problem like a vacuum leak. If the problem is unchanged after disconnecting the MAF the problem is not the MAF.
Aftermarket MAF sensors donít work.

The fuel filter gets clogged and inhibits the flow of fuel. Replace it every 60-100k miles.

Sparkplugs should be replaced every 60k miles.

Replace air filter every 15k miles.

Pre-cat O2 sensors have a lifespan of 100k miles. They have a significant effect on fuel consumption. They also affect performance. When they start degrading they cause a rich air/fuel mix. This will degrade performance some but will not cause any rough running symptoms. The main symptom is degraded fuel consumption.
The pre-cat O2 sensors are not used on cold weather cold start. The O2 sensors donít function when cold and are thus not utilized by the DME.
Aftermarket O2 sensors donít work.

Camshaft position sensors can fail and cause problems. They will usually produce a code, but they might initially malfunction without producing a code. A failing exhaust CPS will cause light performance problems. A failing intake CPS can cause significant performance problems.
Aftermarket CPS sensors donít work. OEM CPS sensors are only available through BMW. OEM CPS sensors have a BMW logo or series of numbers and this can be used to check if a CPS sensor is OEM.
Thank you very much for the detailed response. I apologize for not putting more detail in my original post.

This car is completely stock and I have recently (within the last 2 months) replaced all of the following with new parts:
- MAF
- Both intake tubes/elbow
- DISA O-ring/gasket
- DISA was checked to be operational
- ICV was cleaned and checked to be operational
- CCV and all cooresponding hoses are new
- New oem spark plugs
- New coil packs
- New O2 sensors
- Fuel pressure was checked at the fuel rail and is operating correctly
- DME has been flashed with most up to date software

So with that said, it leads me to think it's a cam position sensor that isn't kicking a code, or the vanos seal. If there's anything else you can think of, I appreciate the input. Thanks again!
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:43 PM   #2080
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Originally Posted by TKC View Post
Thank you very much for the detailed response. I apologize for not putting more detail in my original post.

This car is completely stock and I have recently (within the last 2 months) replaced all of the following with new parts:
- MAF
- Both intake tubes/elbow
- DISA O-ring/gasket
- DISA was checked to be operational
- ICV was cleaned and checked to be operational
- CCV and all cooresponding hoses are new
- New oem spark plugs
- New coil packs
- New O2 sensors
- Fuel pressure was checked at the fuel rail and is operating correctly
- DME has been flashed with most up to date software

So with that said, it leads me to think it's a cam position sensor that isn't kicking a code, or the vanos seal. If there's anything else you can think of, I appreciate the input. Thanks again!
You didn't say how many miles on the car.

Be sure you have all OEM parts, especially the sensors. Even aftermarket crankcase vent valves fail in a few days.

You didn't mention replacing the fuel filter. That could be it.

A failing camshaft position sensor would likely cause more symptoms.

The vanos seals are a good candidate.
Be sure to also install the rattle kit. The 323 is susceptible to a vanos rattle.
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