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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 10-30-2012, 09:51 PM   #2441
TrippinBimmer
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I will be going with the Beisan kit then...
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:19 PM   #2442
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Originally Posted by jgold47 View Post
I think you're missing the point. The hard part is just getting to the vanos. The dr vanos kit really doesn't save much time. You're doing 85% of the same work
If you overlook the access to an impact wrench and 4" vise and added skill required for the delicate cutting out of the old viton seals and hard teflon back up rings, all your dreams would come true.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:21 PM   #2443
muhli
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About to do mine soon. Making a list of things to order. Since I have a 328i, I dont need the rattle kit right? Since its usually ths 325s and 330s that have that issue. Do all of you replace the valve cover gasket while doing the Vanos?
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:23 PM   #2444
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Originally Posted by muhli View Post
About to do mine soon. Making a list of things to order. Since I have a 328i, I dont need the rattle kit right? Since its usually ths 325s and 330s that have that issue. Do all of you replace the valve cover gasket while doing the Vanos?
Yes and yes!
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:27 AM   #2445
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
If you overlook the access to an impact wrench and 4" vise and added skill required for the delicate cutting out of the old viton seals and hard teflon back up rings, all your dreams would come true.
do you have a zhp?

If not, you dont need the rattle kit it seems.

Cutting of the rings couldnt be easier. Get an x-acto knife and follow the directions. The only thing I really had any sort of an issue with was putting the new rings on, and that was really because I was worried i would twist them.

Seriously, the instructions are so easy, my wife could probably do it without me. It maybe took me 3 hours tops. I could probably do it again in about a hour to 90 minutes. Which I will be doing on my x5 in the spring. Thats a hard one, as I have to remove the fan (tounge in cheek)
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:57 PM   #2446
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Originally Posted by jgold47 View Post
do you have a zhp?

If not, you dont need the rattle kit it seems.

Cutting of the rings couldnt be easier. Get an x-acto knife and follow the directions. The only thing I really had any sort of an issue with was putting the new rings on, and that was really because I was worried i would twist them.

Seriously, the instructions are so easy, my wife could probably do it without me. It maybe took me 3 hours tops. I could probably do it again in about a hour to 90 minutes.
I did the rattle 'cause I like to DIY.
No ZHP
I profited from doing this as the tolerances on the thrust bearing were looser than need be. The custom trimming tightened things up nicely and the engine runs a bit quieter.

Ring job easy for you and me, but I've read where it intimidated others. Can't assume all are as skilled as you.
Putting rings on was a piece of cake for me. People have different skills.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:48 PM   #2447
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Originally Posted by fiveightandten View Post
Other than the VANOS and maybe the timing chain...any rattling from engine internals would happen for a fairly short time before the engine tore itself apart. The sound is most likely your VANOS.

Confirm by ear as described above. It's quite easy to pin the noise down to the VANOS if that's the point of origin. If that's the culprit, replace and rejoice. You'll have some regained torque as well, and noone argues with that.


You have 4 options when it comes to VANOS replacement:
1) New OEM VANOS unit (not recommended, as it's expensive and doesn't provide any positives compared to other options) - $750
2) Dr VANOS rebuilt unit ( www.drvanos.com ) - $250
3) VAC Motorsports rebuilt unit ( www.vacmotorsports.com) - $250
4) Besian systems rebuild kit ( www.beisansystems.com ) - $60 for seals, $120 for seals + anti rattle.

Each kit has their ups and downs. After doing some research, I went with the VAC Motorsports rebuilt unit and was very happy with the results.


Other things to buy:
-New o-ring for the exhaust cam position sensor
-New o-rings for the VANOS solenoids
-New valve cover gasket
-Sealant (I swear by Honda bond. Get it at any Honda or Acura dealer. This stuff is amazing)

Budget 3 hours for the job if you take your time. Longer for the Besian systems fixes, as you have to take your VANOS apart. Hope that helps.
Is there a reason that you chose vac motorsports for your vanos? I might be in the process of buying one and replacing mine. Does vac rebuild as many parts as dr. Vanos? Anyway let me know your conclusion after your research between the two.

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:26 PM   #2448
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I got a ?, do you have to do the vcg when you do vanos? Mines is not leaking and don't want to touch it because it might leak.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:35 PM   #2449
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Originally Posted by a32axo View Post
I got a ?, do you have to do the vcg when you do vanos? Mines is not leaking and don't want to touch it because it might leak.
If your valve cover gaskets are fairly new you can reuse them. But if they have 40k miles of more on them you will need to replace them.
They usually start leaking by 60k miles and need replacement. So it's an inevitability.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:57 PM   #2450
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
If your valve cover gaskets are fairly new you can reuse them. But if they have 40k miles of more on them you will need to replace them.
They usually start leaking by 60k miles and need replacement. So it's an inevitability.
I believe mines is original with only 80000 on the clock and me having bought the car at 60000. Just no leaks. I will wait to do the vanos then until the vcg leaks.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:15 PM   #2451
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If you'll eventually do the vanos, why not move that labor sooner rather than later and enjoy all those extra miles with the low rpm torque satisfyingly pulling you up through the power range?
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:35 PM   #2452
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
If you overlook the access to an impact wrench and 4" vise and added skill required for the delicate cutting out of the old viton seals and hard teflon back up rings, all your dreams would come true.
You don't need a particularly good impact wrench - a crappy one from harbor freight works just fine. An impact wrench is something nice to have around anyway - makes taking the wheels off so much easier. And if you can't cut the old seals (which aren't viton btw, or else we wouldn't have to do the seals), then you probably shouldn't be working on the car at all. Seriously - it's about as difficult as cutting a zip tie...

In any case, you can get the tools you need and Rajaie's kit for less than what Dr. VANOS costs. You don't have to pay any shipping costs for the heavy vanos unit, and you get some tools that can be useful in the future.

I was barely out of high school when I did my vanos seals. Didn't really have any skills to speak of.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:19 PM   #2453
Stinger9
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Originally Posted by TerraPhantm View Post
You don't need a particularly good impact wrench - a crappy one from harbor freight works just fine. An impact wrench is something nice to have around anyway - makes taking the wheels off so much easier.
Impact wrench only needed for rattle kit.
Can do seals without.

I agree, good to add tools to your kingdom.

At least do the seals.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:46 PM   #2454
threetwentyfizzle
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I finally did my vanos seals this past weekend. I have nothing but good things to say about the repair as of now. My car was running like dog sh*t and stalling out very badly before the repair. I ended up replacing the seals, as well as intake and exhaust cam position sensors, as well as replaced my VCG which was only 4 months old and sprung a HUGE leak. So all in all, everything worked out for the best. My MPG's have increased from 20 to 28 as of now, and power and smooth acceleration has returned.

Thank you Rajaie, and everyone else in this thread that turned me to this repair. Two Thumbs up!

P.S. Stay away from Viktor Reinz brand VCG, I would only reccomend OEM parts from here on out after how much bad luck I've had from aftermarket parts.
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:16 PM   #2455
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Originally Posted by threetwentyfizzle View Post
I finally did my vanos seals this past weekend. I have nothing but good things to say about the repair as of now. My car was running like dog sh*t and stalling out very badly before the repair. I ended up replacing the seals, as well as intake and exhaust cam position sensors, as well as replaced my VCG which was only 4 months old and sprung a HUGE leak. So all in all, everything worked out for the best. My MPG's have increased from 20 to 28 as of now, and power and smooth acceleration has returned.

Thank you Rajaie, and everyone else in this thread that turned me to this repair. Two Thumbs up!

P.S. Stay away from Viktor Reinz brand VCG, I would only reccomend OEM parts from here on out after how much bad luck I've had from aftermarket parts.
Congrats on the repair and results!
Thanks for the nice feedback!
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:02 PM   #2456
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I bought a 2000 328i with auto and 145,000 miles in July. I have no maintenance records and bought the car for my wife as a commuter. Needless to say, this car was the wrong choice for this purpose but, on the upside I have completely fallen in love with this car!! I didn't even realize I had stopped enjoying driving until I drove this! Sorry, to the point- it has the cold weather idle jump and I'm convinced that the VANOS seals need to be replaced. However, the idle jump is the only real problem, the current computer readings are : avg. mpg - 23.7 avg. speed 29.1. That seems reasonable. I tried the torque test as described in the beginning of this thread but it kept downshifting to second when I applied serious throttle. Is there another test I can perform to verify that the VANOS seals are indeed the problem? Thanks for everyone's feedback in this thread, and the countless hours some of you have spent researching and helping others on this issue.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:14 PM   #2457
Rajaie
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Originally Posted by IM328i View Post
I bought a 2000 328i with auto and 145,000 miles in July. I have no maintenance records and bought the car for my wife as a commuter. Needless to say, this car was the wrong choice for this purpose but, on the upside I have completely fallen in love with this car!! I didn't even realize I had stopped enjoying driving until I drove this! Sorry, to the point- it has the cold weather idle jump and I'm convinced that the VANOS seals need to be replaced. However, the idle jump is the only real problem, the current computer readings are : avg. mpg - 23.7 avg. speed 29.1. That seems reasonable. I tried the torque test as described in the beginning of this thread but it kept downshifting to second when I applied serious throttle. Is there another test I can perform to verify that the VANOS seals are indeed the problem? Thanks for everyone's feedback in this thread, and the countless hours some of you have spent researching and helping others on this issue.
Congrats on the nice car purchase.

The 98/99-00 M52TU engine cars all have the cold weather cold start idle drops and possible stall. So it would be unusual if you weren't experiencing it.

If you like you can remove the vanos intake solenoid electrical connector and this will prevent the idle drops from occurring.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:20 PM   #2458
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Has the replacement of the VANOS piston seals proven to remedy the idle jump and possible stall for the long term?
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:27 PM   #2459
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I think he already just told you no.
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:34 PM   #2460
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Alright, thanks for the info. I'll try to read more on the issue, it's a long thread.
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