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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-16-2013, 02:06 PM   #2501
steveybrown
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My guess would be the pullies. I'd replace about every 60,000
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:01 PM   #2502
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The engine cover has rubber pads to prevent rattling. The studs on the head for mounting the vanos can be easily stripped out of the head. Yours might be on the way. You can remove the loosening ones and install a helicoil in the head and that will make them stronger. Here is a list of things that can cause a rattle...
All rubber pads still exist. The rattling plastic cover is the smaller one, on top of the injectors/intake manifold. If you tap on top of it, it already rattles a little bit because there is a 1 mm gap between the cover and the distribution piece (plastic against plastic). I took this cover away and half of the rattle went away.

I regularly check the engine and power steering oil levels and keep them at max. With the vanos job, I also replaced: vc gasket + grommets (oem), water pump (oem), thermostat (Behr), idler and tensioner pulleys (INA), both belts (Conti) and chain tensioner (oem). However, I am going to replace the AC tensioner (mechanical) in 2 weeks. I did not replace the hydraulic spring of the main belt tensioner, just the pulley. The car has done ~85k miles. The fan clutch is original, but seems to work (no play, can be stopped by hand). I have inspected and cleaned the Disa twice, it is ok. One thing I noticed during the belt change was that the power steering pump axle has some play. The exhaust, engine and transmission rubber mounts were replaced during a clutch/flywheel job. Spark plugs are tight (used torque wrench). Actually there is a slight chance of an exhaust leak because sometimes I get a little bit of smell inside the car after heavy acceleration. The rattle started during break-in of the seals after making many heavy accelerations. For the first 50-100 km, the engine sound was very clean.

Last edited by F5D; 03-16-2013 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:20 PM   #2503
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How about the fan shroud. Is maybe one of the feet not quite in the holder. ? That is a low mileage car. I've got over 200,000 miles on my engine
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:35 PM   #2504
98bimmer
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Im not sure if i need to replace the rattle kit in my vanos, from the videos i watched it doesnt sound like it, but sometimes when im accelerating my engine has a rattles between 2 and 3k but im not sure if its my vanos. I have the seals but should i purchase the rattle kit aswell?
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:04 PM   #2505
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Originally Posted by 98bimmer View Post
Im not sure if i need to replace the rattle kit in my vanos, from the videos i watched it doesnt sound like it, but sometimes when im accelerating my engine has a rattles between 2 and 3k but im not sure if its my vanos. I have the seals but should i purchase the rattle kit aswell?
All the vanos units have loose piston bearings and thus can rattle.
It takes a resonance in movements to get the rattle. We know from experience some models are susceptible to getting the rattle while others don't usually get it.
On the E46 the 323 and 330 get the rattle. The 325 gets it in some cases. The 328 does not usually get it.

Last edited by Rajaie; 03-16-2013 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:19 PM   #2506
98bimmer
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All the vanos units have loose piston bearings and thus can rattle.
It takes a resonance in movements to get the rattle. We know from experience some models are susceptible to getting the rattle while others don't usually get it.
On the E46 the 323 and 330 get the rattle. The 325 gets it in some cases. The 328 does not usually get it.
The rattle is not consistent though, it only happens sometimes, so you would recommend purchasing the rattle kit?
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:58 PM   #2507
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Originally Posted by 98bimmer View Post
The rattle is not consistent though, it only happens sometimes, so you would recommend purchasing the rattle kit?
If you have a 323 or 330 you should install the rattle kit with the seals kit.
Even if you don't have the rattle now it can develop.
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:17 AM   #2508
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How about the fan shroud. Is maybe one of the feet not quite in the holder. ? That is a low mileage car. I've got over 200,000 miles on my engine
I need to check this as well. Btw, is it normal that the expansion tank can move a little with respect to the fan shroud, or should it be a 100 % firm fit? If I try to rotate the tank from above, it can move maybe +/- 0.1" against the shroud. Another possible source for the resonance is the AC-compressor or its clutch. Found alot of information about those resonating, or even exploding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98bimmer View Post
Im not sure if i need to replace the rattle kit in my vanos, from the videos i watched it doesnt sound like it, but sometimes when im accelerating my engine has a rattles between 2 and 3k but im not sure if its my vanos. I have the seals but should i purchase the rattle kit aswell?
I would get the rattle kit as well, just in case. My M54B30 had a little bit of the rattle, could be heard around 2000 rpm. However, it went away just with the new seals. I did not get the rattle kit because some guys at a local bmw club said that the seals did the job. I can hear some kind of rattle during heavy accelerations, but only between 4-6k. I think that could be lifters, PS-pump or AC-compressor. I am quite sure that the resonance that I now have around 1000 rpm cannot be vanos rattle.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:25 AM   #2509
98bimmer
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If you have a 323 or 330 you should install the rattle kit with the seals kit.
Even if you don't have the rattle now it can develop.
Okay ill order the rattle kit as well
Quote:
Originally Posted by F5D View Post

I would get the rattle kit as well, just in case. My M54B30 had a little bit of the rattle, could be heard around 2000 rpm. However, it went away just with the new seals. I did not get the rattle kit because some guys at a local bmw club said that the seals did the job. I can hear some kind of rattle during heavy accelerations, but only between 4-6k. I think that could be lifters, PS-pump or AC-compressor. I am quite sure that the resonance that I now have around 1000 rpm cannot be vanos rattle.
What type of rattle do you have? Mine is very odd, it will end up coming on every drive but sometimes its not there at all
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:16 PM   #2510
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Okay ill order the rattle kit as well
Not to be taken lightly! Requires an impact wrench & socket, 4" vise and the jaw liners sold by Beisan. No substitutes accepted.

Last edited by Stinger9; 03-17-2013 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:08 PM   #2511
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finally had my VANOS (Beisan) and VCGs done yesterday (professionally)
it cured my hiccup at 2500 RPM's so happy about that
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:44 PM   #2512
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finally had my VANOS (Beisan) and VCGs done yesterday (professionally)
it cured my hiccup at 2500 RPM's so happy about that
Very interesting.
Did you have it done by a normal type indy as opposed to a dealer?
And what did you have to pay for the labor? Did you supply the Beisan kit?
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #2513
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finally had my VANOS (Beisan) and VCGs done yesterday (professionally)
it cured my hiccup at 2500 RPM's so happy about that
Congrats and thanks for the feedback.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:26 PM   #2514
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My 328i makes a rattle in the morning like the lifters are empty then after a few seconds stops which it has done for a little while, but on the way home today the car was guttless. Got it plugged in and its saying 103 vanos end position inlet camshaft, 104 vanos end position outlet camshaft and a couple mix fire codes. Is it my vanos seals causing this or is It more severe? Any ideas?
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:04 PM   #2515
killj0y
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
The valve cover gaskets OEM manufacturer is Gloeckler. But it is not usually available aftermarket.
A good place to buy OEM parts is www.getbmwparts.com. This is Tischer BMW in Maryland. They list MSRP and provide a 20% discount from that. Amazing!
Hey raj I'm the guy you spoke to on the phone, got the fix done using the victor gasket and so far no issues, I'll probably retorque the bolts after a 100 miles to be safe but so far so good. Need a new vanos line since it leaked at the crimp at the top of the engine...stopped after the first drive but still gonna replace it just to be safe. I had some sludge I had to clean out of the vanos piston cylinders but no biggie.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:31 PM   #2516
Rajaie
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My 328i makes a rattle in the morning like the lifters are empty then after a few seconds stops which it has done for a little while, but on the way home today the car was guttless. Got it plugged in and its saying 103 vanos end position inlet camshaft, 104 vanos end position outlet camshaft and a couple mix fire codes. Is it my vanos seals causing this or is It more severe? Any ideas?
The rattling could be vanos. This is no problem. I've heard from 328 customers that replacing the vanos seals alone resolves this. It would be better to also install the rattle kit.

The misfires are caused by the vanos codes. It's unusual to get both these codes at the same time. Have you done anything recently, like change out old oil? Replace the camshaft position sensors with aftermarket parts? Get a thermostat electrical code?

Here are the things that cause these codes.
1. Wrong timing. But the timing needed to have been disturbed.
2. Failed vanos seals. All vanos units have failed seals.
3. Aftermarket camshaft position sensors.
4. Sticking solenoid pistons.

Here is how to resolve a sticking vanos intake solenoid piston. Looking at the vanos from the front of the car, on the right side is a 2" long silver cylinder with an electrical connector at the end of it. This is the intake solenoid. Remove the cable electrical connector. At the base of the solenoid is a 32mm hex. Use a 32mm open wrench to unscrew the solenoid. Turn the wrench clockwise from the front of the car since the solenoid is screwed in from the rear of the vanos. Unscrew and remove the solenoid (hand). Where the solenoid is screwed into the vanos body there is a cylinder and finger size red spring loaded piston in the vanos body. Press in and release the piston. It should press in with a little resistance and spring back when released. It should move very smoothly. If it's slightly sticking that's the problem. Pull out the piston form the vanos. Clean the piston and cylinder with brake cleaner and towels. Let dry. Re-oil the piston and cylinder. Reinsert the piston in the cylinder and check its movement. It should reciprocate very smoothly. Reinstall the solenoid and plug in its cable electrical connector.

Here is how to resolve a sticking vanos exhaust solenoid piston.
With the vanos mounted on the engine, remove the vanos exhaust solenoid with a 32mm deep socket.
Most 32mm deep sockets arenít deep enough for the vanos solenoid. The CarQuest brand 32mm deep socket works. Also a showerhead socket works.
Place paper towels on the radiator lower hose to catch dripping oil. Also have a paper towel under the solenoid junction when removing the solenoid.
Where the solenoid screws into the vanos is a cylinder with red spring loaded piston. Press in the piston and release. It should press in with resistance and spring back when released. The piston movement should be smooth. If itís not then this is likely the problem.
Pull out the piston while holding a paper towel under it to catch oil.
Spray clean the piston and itís cylinder with brake cleaner. Dry the piston and cylinder.
Oil the piston and cylinder and reinstall the piston.
Check the piston movement. Press in and release the piston multiple times. Its movement should be very smooth.
Reinstall the solenoid.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:32 PM   #2517
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Hey raj I'm the guy you spoke to on the phone, got the fix done using the victor gasket and so far no issues, I'll probably retorque the bolts after a 100 miles to be safe but so far so good. Need a new vanos line since it leaked at the crimp at the top of the engine...stopped after the first drive but still gonna replace it just to be safe. I had some sludge I had to clean out of the vanos piston cylinders but no biggie.
Congrats on the repair!
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:34 PM   #2518
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Exhaust camshaft sensor throwing codes 14k miles after replacing seals. Might be due to its age or the seals doing their job and the sensor not being able to keep up.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:46 PM   #2519
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Exhaust camshaft sensor throwing codes 14k miles after replacing seals. Might be due to its age or the seals doing their job and the sensor not being able to keep up.
The Beisan seals aren't failing, so that's not likely it.
Try checking and cleaning the solenoid piston. If that doesn't do it replace the camshaft position sensor with an OEM part.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:48 PM   #2520
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Sensor was already replaced with an OEM one a few days ago. Idle doesn't hunt that much when the car is stopped. I think everything is working the way it should now compliments of new sensors and seals
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