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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 02-24-2008, 12:03 AM   #241
2003330i
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
The vanos seals are significantly failing in 20k miles. Replacing them will provide significant performance improvements. Your seals are badly damaged.

Only a few owners end up experiencing the listed codes.

The install should be the same regardless of the mods.
thank you so much. how do i pay for the kit
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:08 AM   #242
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thank you so much. how do i pay for the kit
www.beisansystems.com
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:25 AM   #243
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i do realize that my go consumes allot of oil but i dont have any oil leaks. does this have anythign to do with it
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:33 AM   #244
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i do realize that my go consumes allot of oil but i dont have any oil leaks. does this have anythign to do with it
No.

If you have any more questions please email me at the support email provided on the Beisan website.
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:20 AM   #245
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Alright, 7 hours and a stiff back later, I am done.

A few observations:

-It looks a lot more complicated than it is. It is just a TON of ratcheting. Yeesh.

-My old seals were completely plasticized at 72k and the intake piston moved freely in the cylinder.

-I would definitely recommend changing out the valve cover and spark plug seals as instructed if you haven't in a while. My valve cover gasket broke in half when I removed the cover because it was brittle and the spark plug seals were completely plasticized. In fact, it was impossible to get those off in one piece since they crumbled in your hands.

-MAKE SURE you pay attention when you bolt the oil hose pipe back on and use the screwdriver as instructed to keep the hose from crimping. I forgot to do this and it caused a leak. I had to go back and redo the bolt using the screwdriver.

-I got a Service Engine light after the install for a camshaft position sensor. I cleared it and drove around for a few minutes and it didn't come back on. Hopefully it won't.

-My dipstick was reading about 1 quart low after driving around post-install. I don't think I lost that much in the install and I am pretty sure I was not low before. Either way, I will recheck in the morning and add oil as needed.

-From very early observations, the low end power is definitely back.

-Thanks again for this great product. Any idea how long these seals should last?
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Old 02-24-2008, 05:23 PM   #246
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Alright, 7 hours and a stiff back later, I am done.

A few observations:

-It looks a lot more complicated than it is. It is just a TON of ratcheting. Yeesh.

-My old seals were completely plasticized at 72k and the intake piston moved freely in the cylinder.

-I would definitely recommend changing out the valve cover and spark plug seals as instructed if you haven't in a while. My valve cover gasket broke in half when I removed the cover because it was brittle and the spark plug seals were completely plasticized. In fact, it was impossible to get those off in one piece since they crumbled in your hands.

-MAKE SURE you pay attention when you bolt the oil hose pipe back on and use the screwdriver as instructed to keep the hose from crimping. I forgot to do this and it caused a leak. I had to go back and redo the bolt using the screwdriver.

-I got a Service Engine light after the install for a camshaft position sensor. I cleared it and drove around for a few minutes and it didn't come back on. Hopefully it won't.

-My dipstick was reading about 1 quart low after driving around post-install. I don't think I lost that much in the install and I am pretty sure I was not low before. Either way, I will recheck in the morning and add oil as needed.

-From very early observations, the low end power is definitely back.

-Thanks again for this great product. Any idea how long these seals should last?
Congratulations on the repair. Thanks for the feedback. Glad to hear your car is driving well. Drive it hard to help break-in the seals faster.

I presume your CPS fault code was on the exhaust side. This is due to the spring opposing the piston and the rough finish on the new seals. A few owners have reported this. The code will go away, or it can be erased and does not return.

Regarding the lifespan of the seals, I respond to this on page 2 of this thread.
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Old 02-27-2008, 01:07 PM   #247
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Rajaie,

Below is the price on the same part # at bavauto.com

Vanos Adjusting Unit
Part # : 11 36 1 440 142
$ 399.95

I appologize ....but did I miss something?
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:17 PM   #248
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Order placed in anticipation of some better weather around here for the install...stupid Michigan.

Last edited by MatthewLFD; 02-27-2008 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:23 PM   #249
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If there are gains to be made there simply must be a way to quantify them.

Fine for some reason the dyno can't measure the gain in low-end power.
Let's devise a method with a stopwatch/camera. Since the gains are supposed to be on the low-end then have the car rolling with the rpms where the gains are supposed to be, go WOT and measure the time it takes to reach XXXX rpm.

How's that sound?
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:52 PM   #250
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I don't know if I gained any power over the previously functioning seals (before they wore out), but I definitely got the lost power back.
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:11 PM   #251
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Sorry I meant to time the procedure before and after... after the break-in period if necessary.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:01 PM   #252
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Rajaie,

Below is the price on the same part # at bavauto.com

Vanos Adjusting Unit
Part # : 11 36 1 440 142
$ 399.95

I appologize ....but did I miss something?
I'm not sure what you are asking.
You can replace the complete vanos unit, and it will fix the problem. Unfortunately it comes with the same Buna O-rings and will fail in short order. The O-rings fully fail in 20k miles.

The Beisan seals address this problem by using Viton O-rings that can handle the engine environment.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:10 PM   #253
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If there are gains to be made there simply must be a way to quantify them.

Fine for some reason the dyno can't measure the gain in low-end power.
Let's devise a method with a stopwatch/camera. Since the gains are supposed to be on the low-end then have the car rolling with the rpms where the gains are supposed to be, go WOT and measure the time it takes to reach XXXX rpm.

How's that sound?
I have spent significant effort and money to scientifically assess the performance improvements, and have failed. I am reluctant to spend more effort on this. Owners are welcome to attempt this.

Replace your vanos seals and your butt-dyno will register high results.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:31 PM   #254
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I have spent significant effort and money to scientifically assess the performance improvements, and have failed. I am reluctant to spend more effort on this. Owners are welcome to attempt this.

Replace your vanos seals and your butt-dyno will register high results.
Sure... have you tried the method I suggested? Or do you have any comments on it?

And after some thought... dyno runs might cost you money but the method I suggested is free. You just need a helpful member (of which there are many on this site) with a camera.

In fact I will offer to edit the videos. Just send me the videos and I'll superimpose a timer onto the video counting the time from RPM to RPM.

RPMs in a manual are linked to speed, so if there is any increase at all in the speed from X mph to X mph the RPMs MUST increase faster from XXXX rpm to XXX rpm. There is absolutely NO reason my butt-dyno is going to register something that is actually there that cannot be measured using a difference in the acceleration of the vehicle.

Since this is supposed to restore low-end power how about a 3rd gear roll from 1000 RPM to 3000 RPM. Anyone trying trying the test can just start from ~800 RPM and end above 3000 and I will splice the video to arrive at the EXACT timing.

----------

Otherwise... even though the vanos seals may be degraded... there is NO degradation(or at least restoration with these seals) of power.

Last edited by jsonli; 02-27-2008 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:46 PM   #255
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I ordered these seals, but picked up the bentley manual and freaked when I saw all that madness about the timing.
Asked around and wasready to pay to have it done.
Rechecked the site and saw how it was done without the cam lock tool. So we'll see how it goes.
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Old 02-29-2008, 01:01 PM   #256
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01 330i at 46K feeling some vibrations on coldstart idle, also appears to have some lose of power when car is warm. This kit has only had positive reviews on this site, so I will be ordering....would like more data than buttdyno though once I get this done (a month or so) I will post a review....
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Old 02-29-2008, 01:25 PM   #257
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01 330i at 46K feeling some vibrations on coldstart idle, also appears to have some lose of power when car is warm. This kit has only had positive reviews on this site, so I will be ordering....would like more data than buttdyno though once I get this done (a month or so) I will post a review....
Hey, could you do the test I outlined above? Would really help all the members.
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Old 02-29-2008, 03:24 PM   #258
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Hey, could you do the test I outlined above? Would really help all the members.
So in your method, does it matter how fast I accelerate? i.e how much gas I give it to get to 3000rpm? I'm not really following how your test will tell you if torque/power has increased.
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Old 02-29-2008, 03:38 PM   #259
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I think you need to floor it!
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Old 02-29-2008, 03:49 PM   #260
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So in your method, does it matter how fast I accelerate? i.e how much gas I give it to get to 3000rpm? I'm not really following how your test will tell you if torque/power has increased.
Yes I should have mentioned that it must be done at WOT - totally floored.
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