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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 09-12-2013, 11:46 AM   #2581
Stinger9
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Originally Posted by trizzuth View Post
Her plugs were disgusting, so I replaced them too, car still doing this "jerk" every once in awhile.
Explore the loose electrical connectors thread.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:52 AM   #2582
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Explore the loose electrical connectors thread.
You mean this one?
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=856781
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:01 PM   #2583
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Yes, lots of information there to digest.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:39 PM   #2584
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Hey Rajae, what would be the outcome if I ever so slightly knicked the edges of the vanos pistons when doing this job on my wife's car? Very very small knicks about 3 of them from the blade i was using to remove the old seals. Could this potentially cause the car to stall after doing the seals replacement? It's been running for more than a month now, but has recently stalled out a few times. I am wondering if it has anything to do with the knicks I made. The seals appeared to protrude out of the pistons enough so that the knicks would never come in contact with the piston sleeve, but I cannot see what is happening inside the engine, so I don't exactly know the outcome of what these knicks would be.. thanks.
It is common to slightly nick the pistons. It's fine. As you note the seals make the contact.

I've posted many times on this thread a list of common performance problems. You should take a look at the list and see if you have any of the issues.

Last edited by Rajaie; 09-12-2013 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:11 PM   #2585
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Vanos seals solution

How hard is it to remove the fan if I never did it before?


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Old 09-12-2013, 01:37 PM   #2586
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How hard is it to remove the fan if I never did it before?


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It's not bad. You should get the water pump holding tool referenced in the procedure.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:51 PM   #2587
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How hard is it to remove the fan if I never did it before?
You really need to go back and read the procedure a number of times instead of asking us to rewrite the procedure one sentence at a time. Or you're not serious about doing the job correctly.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:14 PM   #2588
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I put one slight nick in mine and its been running fine. I found a real small screw driver worked best to remove the seals. Found out that after I put a nick in one spot. Just in case anyone's wondering what to use
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:24 PM   #2589
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I recommend to use a small plastic pry spudger to remove the old seals....no nicks to the aluminum.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:36 AM   #2590
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I personally used a #11 surgical scalpel to cut my seals off. Cut through them like butter, so I didn't slip and nick the surrounding.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:39 AM   #2591
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I personally used a #11 surgical scalpel to cut my seals off. Cut through them like butter, so I didn't slip and nick the surrounding.
Is that Harbor Freight issue?
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:14 PM   #2592
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Shiiiit I too have the same issue with my wife's car!! But hers was happening before i replaced the seals, and is still happening after. F. Her plugs were disgusting, so I replaced them too, car still doing this "jerk" every once in awhile.
Updating this thread and post to spread the knowledge, the issue with my wife's car stuttering or jolting was due to a bad crankshaft position sensor. This took a BMW dealer over a month to figure out as the car was not tossing codes!

Now, another question for your Rajae, is there any data on the longevity of your vanos seals? I have a friend who replaced them 200K ago when I did mine, and he is now experiencing what he refers to as the car stalling on a cold start when left to idle. Something he said was immediately fixed after replacing the seals the first time. From what I have read, they last a very very long time, even seen them inside an engine on a long term comparison, but it was no where near 200K miles. Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:05 AM   #2593
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Updating this thread and post to spread the knowledge, the issue with my wife's car stuttering or jolting was due to a bad crankshaft position sensor. This took a BMW dealer over a month to figure out as the car was not tossing codes!

Now, another question for your Rajae, is there any data on the longevity of your vanos seals? I have a friend who replaced them 200K ago when I did mine, and he is now experiencing what he refers to as the car stalling on a cold start when left to idle. Something he said was immediately fixed after replacing the seals the first time. From what I have read, they last a very very long time, even seen them inside an engine on a long term comparison, but it was no where near 200K miles. Thanks!
The stalling is not likely due to the seals failing. We have not seen any cases of this. Below is a list of common performance problems. His problem is likely in this list.

I've been trying to get a set of seals with high miles.
Recently an owner with 200k miles swapped out his engine and was going to get me the seals. But his mechanic sent the engine to the junk yard before he could get them.
Another owner was going to replace the seals at 100k miles and send them to me, but this never happened.
If your friend is interested in replacing his seals, have him contact me. I would love to get his seals for inspection.

There have been a large number of Beisan vanos seals installs in the past 6 years and we have not seen a case of failure.
The Teflon rings are not likely experiencing any notable wear. But the seal O-rings will experience compression set (flattening). O-ring flattening is normal, but the issue is permanent flattening, compression set. It is inevitable that some amount of compression set will occur. The questions is to what extent and in how long a time.
It's reasonable to expect that replacing the seals after 200k miles can provide performance improvements. But we need to try this and see what happens.

Here is a list of common performance problems.

The idle control valve air intake boot branch gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys. This can be inspected with a flashlight and mirror.

The idle control valve gets gummed up and sticks. Take it out and clean it with brake cleaner and towels.

The DISA valve is problematic on 01+ cars.
The DISA is a black box 4" high 6" wide on the side of the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF. Remove it. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. It shouldn't have any play. It breaks at its base axis. If itís broken, the flap end axis pin can be removed and the flap will fall off.
The 01+ DISA has a base gasket built into the DISA. It shrinks over time and creates a small vacuum leak. Place an 8" piece of electrical tape on a table top. Cut the tape half width with a razor knife. Place one layer of half width electrical tape over the base gasket. This will thicken the gasket and create a tight seal with the intake manifold.

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.
At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1Ē, the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.
With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hose. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you donít hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses.

The MAF sensor can be dirty and not perform well or can be failing. Aftermarket oiled air filters foul the MAF.
Take out the MAF and clean it with CRC MAF spray cleaner. Spray the MAF lightly. There are delicate wires that can be damaged. Let the MAF fully dry before reconnecting.
Cold air intake setups can drive the MAF beyond its intended operating limits and cause it to fail.
The MAF can be tested by disconnecting its electrical cable connector. If the performance problem resolves it might be the MAF. But this test can be deceiving and should be used with great care. When the MAF is disconnected the DME will err on enriching the air/fuel mix. This can easily cover up another performance problem like a vacuum leak. If the problem is unchanged after disconnecting the MAF the problem is not the MAF.
Aftermarket MAF sensors donít work.

The fuel filter gets clogged and inhibits the flow of fuel. Replace it every 60-100k miles.

Sparkplugs should be replaced every 60k miles.

Replace air filter every 15k miles.

Pre-cat O2 sensors have a lifespan of 100k miles. They have a significant effect on fuel consumption. They also affect performance. When they start degrading they cause a rich air/fuel mix. This will degrade performance some but will not cause any rough running symptoms. The main symptom is degraded fuel consumption.
The pre-cat O2 sensors are not used on cold weather cold start. The O2 sensors donít function when cold and are thus not utilized by the DME.
Aftermarket O2 sensors donít work.

Camshaft position sensors can fail and cause problems. They will usually produce a code, but they might initially malfunction without producing a code. A failing exhaust CPS will cause light performance problems. A failing intake CPS can cause significant performance problems.
Aftermarket CPS sensors donít work. OEM CPS sensors are only available through BMW. OEM CPS sensors have a BMW logo or series of numbers and this can be used to check if a CPS sensor is OEM.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:23 PM   #2594
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He just might be interested in this, would you send him a set of free seals if he removed the 200k ones and mailed them back to you for analysis? high res photos would be included and posts in this thread as well.. Let me know..


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Old 03-27-2014, 04:32 PM   #2595
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He just might be interested in this, would you send him a set of free seals if he removed the 200k ones and mailed them back to you for analysis? high res photos would be included and posts in this thread as well.. Let me know..


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Old 03-27-2014, 04:42 PM   #2596
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He just might be interested in this, would you send him a set of free seals if he removed the 200k ones and mailed them back to you for analysis? high res photos would be included and posts in this thread as well.. Let me know..


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Yes. Have him contact me.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:42 PM   #2597
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I still have 6/8 of the my old seals but are cut, any good? I have all 4 of the outer seals.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:47 PM   #2598
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I still have 6/8 of the my old seals but are cut, any good? I have all 4 of the outer seals.
We are interested in Beisan seals with 200k miles on them.
If you are referring to used BMW seals, we don't need these.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:50 PM   #2599
David McMahon
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We are interested in Beisan seals with 200k miles on them.
If you are referring to used BMW seals, we don't need these.
Ok, actually made some progress on my seals today. Well Mum did, her hands are steady mine are not so Mum cut the old seals away.

Just need to clean up the pistons and get my nice new ones installed.

When this thread was bumped today, was interesting to read the history of the seals.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:30 PM   #2600
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I've got about 20,000 on mine and counting
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