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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-30-2009, 09:54 AM   #841
325CI Man
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
From your fault codes I expect the engine computer is not even using your pre-cat O2 sensors. It's likely in a default mode. This is probably why the car is driving ok. But you are likely using an excessive amount of fuel.
Pre-cat O2 sensors are very important to the function of the car. They will cost you ~$65 each. But you will get nice performance benefits, including better gas mileage. They pay for themselves. You should replace them. Don't buy any aftermarket (non OEM) sensors. They don't work!
As for the vanos seals, do u think i will notice any difference in the way the car performs? right now i think that the car is running fine.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:09 AM   #842
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^ Looks like you didn't read the whole thread.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:25 AM   #843
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i just did mine Saturday (2.5 hours) but my car still chugs below 2k rpm. Do you think that seals just need to break in?
My car also started running horrible. it wouldnt even idle right. this had never happened to me before. the check engine light came on so i checked out all the electrical connections and they were all tight so i shut it off. and when i turned it back on the cel was off and it was running good again. Why wont the chug go away!!!???
LOL, mine's doing the same thing! Well, NOT LOL :'(
Once the car's warmed up, the chugging goes away, but on start, it's pretty annoying. Hope it's nothing terrible.
I took every out again and checked (another 4 hours), things looked ok. But still chugs.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:34 AM   #844
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Do you think its more worth it to buy a whole new unit from Dr. Vanos for 300 bucks + $150 rebate when you return your old vanos unit, or just buy new seals from beisansystems.com?
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:52 AM   #845
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Even drvanos will tell you you only need the new seals for your 325i.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:55 AM   #846
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Originally Posted by bigcraig77 View Post
i just did mine Saturday (2.5 hours) but my car still chugs below 2k rpm. Do you think that seals just need to break in?
My car also started running horrible. it wouldnt even idle right. this had never happened to me before. the check engine light came on so i checked out all the electrical connections and they were all tight so i shut it off. and when i turned it back on the cel was off and it was running good again. Why wont the chug go away!!!???
The chug is likely due to a vacuum leak. There are two common causes of vacuum leak. The idle control valve air intake boot branch gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys. The crankcase vent valve and 4 associated hoses get cracks. These last 70+k miles.

The rough idle was likely caused by the rough new seals, but this was likely aggravated by the other problem you have.
You won’t receive performance benefits from the new seals without resolving the other problem.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:01 PM   #847
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Originally Posted by 325CI Man View Post
As for the vanos seals, do u think i will notice any difference in the way the car performs? right now i think that the car is running fine.
Most owners report performance gains from installing the new seals, but not all. In many cases when the owner doesn't receive performance improvements it's evident there is also another problem. Performance related problems, like vacuum leak, will prevent benefits from the new seal to be achieved. Once the problem is solved performance increases will appear.

Many owners report their car is driving well before the repair, then rave at the results after the repair.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:07 PM   #848
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Originally Posted by TJ710 View Post
Do you think its more worth it to buy a whole new unit from Dr. Vanos for 300 bucks + $150 rebate when you return your old vanos unit, or just buy new seals from beisansystems.com?
The Dr Vanos unit is cleaned up. He installs the Beisan seals and modifies the piston bearings to address the rattle problem. He also includes the vanos gasket and two oil hose washers. The Dr Vanos unit is a good solution.

If you don't have a rattle then it's less expensive to buy and install the Beisan seals kit. The seals aren't difficult to install.
If you have a rattle problem, often found on the E46 ZHP model, then you should get the Dr Vanos unit.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:10 PM   #849
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After reading the diy for the vanos It amazes me how long It actually takes , Now my question at hand Is , Seeing how many have done the job , was there some thing you would have done apart from just changing the seals while youre at It? what would It be ?
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:17 PM   #850
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
The chug is likely due to a vacuum leak. There are two common causes of vacuum leak. The idle control valve air intake boot branch gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys. The crankcase vent valve and 4 associated hoses get cracks. These last 70+k miles.

The rough idle was likely caused by the rough new seals, but this was likely aggravated by the other problem you have.
You won’t receive performance benefits from the new seals without resolving the other problem.
thanks, i guess im gunna have to test the ccv.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:42 PM   #851
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After reading the diy for the vanos It amazes me how long It actually takes , Now my question at hand Is , Seeing how many have done the job , was there some thing you would have done apart from just changing the seals while youre at It? what would It be ?
The main other repair to perform is the valve cover gaskets. This is documented in the repair procedure.
Here are some other repairs that have overlap work.
Sparkplugs.
Belts.
Tensioners and idler.
Cooling system.
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:52 PM   #852
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Most owners report performance gains from installing the new seals, but not all. In many cases when the owner doesn't receive performance improvements it's evident there is also another problem. Performance related problems, like vacuum leak, will prevent benefits from the new seal to be achieved. Once the problem is solved performance increases will appear.

Many owners report their car is driving well before the repair, then rave at the results after the repair.
thanx Rajaie sorry for so many questions. you have been a big help!
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:19 PM   #853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
You need to inspect and repair the electrical wires leading to the thermostat cable electrical connector. Take off the plastic cap on the connector and remove the insulation to several inches past the connector. Look for damage and repair it.
You need to install a new thermostat. Otherwise the wires will be damaged further.

Hope all this makes sense and solves your problem.
I found the short and replaced the thermostat - and it works! My car does not throw any codes whatsoever now. Thankyou for all your help, it was invaluable.

My car before the seals replacement had a pretty nasty erratic idle and now it is as solid as a rock (I have the M52TU). I have to say i haven't noticed a significant performance increase but I will monitor it over the break-in period - I will be sure to report back after 200 miles. Thanks again!
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:30 PM   #854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
The main other repair to perform is the valve cover gaskets. This is documented in the repair procedure.
Here are some other repairs that have overlap work.
Sparkplugs.
Belts.
Tensioners and idler.
Cooling system.

Im assuming theres one valve cover gasket....Cause I noticed u added a "s at the end...
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:19 PM   #855
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http://www.usautoparts.net/bmw/technology/vanos.htm
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:20 PM   #856
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Im assuming theres one valve cover gasket....Cause I noticed u added a "s at the end...
There is one part number. You get three gaskets. One cover perimeter gasket and two sparkplug well gaskets.
Take a look at the double vanos repair procedure.
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Old 04-02-2009, 03:32 PM   #857
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Hi Rajaie,

For the mechanical fan removal, if I'm reading the instructions correctly, the 32mm combo wrench alone can remove the bolt, but if that doesn't work, THEN the pulley tool can be used?

I'm not that enthusiastic about spending 30$ on a tool I might not need...
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:06 PM   #858
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Hi Rajaie,

For the mechanical fan removal, if I'm reading the instructions correctly, the 32mm combo wrench alone can remove the bolt, but if that doesn't work, THEN the pulley tool can be used?

I'm not that enthusiastic about spending 30$ on a tool I might not need...
Correct!

You can try breaking the clutch nut seize ahead of time with the 32mm wrench and sledge hammer. If this works, lightly tighten the nut as described in the procedure and then you'll be able to remove it with the same method when you perform the repair.

The nut is left hand thread, so it's constantly being tightened by the fan turning motion. Thus it's not necessary to fully tighten this nut. Lightly tightening it allows for easy removal with the 32mm wrench and sledge hammer method in the future.

If the fan clutch nut has never been removed, or it was fully tightened the last time it was mounted, then the water pump pulley holding tool is needed for leverage to break the nut seize.

The sledge hammer method simplifies the removal, but there is risk of hitting and breaking the thermostat and upper radiator hose connector.

In general it's good to have the water pump pulley holding tool. It's just $20.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:58 PM   #859
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Originally Posted by KYC View Post
Hi Rajaie,

For the mechanical fan removal, if I'm reading the instructions correctly, the 32mm combo wrench alone can remove the bolt, but if that doesn't work, THEN the pulley tool can be used?

I'm not that enthusiastic about spending 30$ on a tool I might not need...
I bought the special tool, and turns out I didnt need it.

The KEY was to get the 32mm wrench on there good.

Then hit it REAL hard once to break the seige. Then just rotate fan counterclockwise and it comes right off.

Well tightening it down I used the special fan shroud tool, but it wouldnt matter becuase it naturally only gets tighter once installed.
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Old 04-04-2009, 01:42 AM   #860
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Just recived my vanos solution this morning cant wait to attack this diy ... Will be posting pics and asking qestions along the way !
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