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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 10-13-2009, 10:44 AM   #1081
Rajaie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW2k323i View Post
Hello,

I just completed the replacement vanos seals installation during the weekend. The only problem I had with the procedure was a stripped 8mm hex vanos cover bolt.

Other than that hiccup, the installation was straight forward and actually a lot of fun for someone that never worked on an engine. I've done most of the repairs on my 323i but this one was by far the longest (not necessarily the most difficult since Raj's DIY was extremely detailed).

I've only put about 25km on my car since the install so I haven't felt any performance gain yet...however, the engine definitely feels even smoother than before. I did have a slightly rough idle this morning (outdoor temperature was 3oC).

Next project for me....Seafoam or AutoRx and lots of oil changes to clear out some sludge.

Raj: Thanks again for your work...my 166,000km engine feels like new now.

MC
Congrats!
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:18 PM   #1082
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While driving home for lunch, the engine light went on. I'll scan the code tonight and see what it says.

Michael
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Old 10-14-2009, 03:31 AM   #1083
sonaldinho89
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Rajaie, just wondering if it's possible that my Vanos Seals need replacing again.

I used your seals to do the repair about 4000kms ago. Noticed a big improvement.

BUt now i am noticing non-linear acceleration in 2nd gear, and hesitation (esp in 1st gear)

Could it be i need to redo the vanos seals again?
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:49 PM   #1084
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Originally Posted by sonaldinho89 View Post
Rajaie, just wondering if it's possible that my Vanos Seals need replacing again.

I used your seals to do the repair about 4000kms ago. Noticed a big improvement.

BUt now i am noticing non-linear acceleration in 2nd gear, and hesitation (esp in 1st gear)

Could it be i need to redo the vanos seals again?
I doubt it's the vanos seals. The Beisan seals should last the life of the car. We haven't seen any problems with them.

There are many other things that could cause your symptoms.

Take out the air intake boots and inspect them. The boot branch that goes to the idle control valve gets cracks in the outer elbow accordion valleys.

Take out and clean the idle control valve. It gets gunked up and gets stuck open.

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses are a common failure. They usually fail in 80-90k miles.
Here's a test for the valve. With the engine at warm idle, place a plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag is held in place or slightly inserted the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the valve is failed.
Hereís a test for a couple of the hoses. With the engine off, carefully disconnect the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hose. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you don't hear this a hose is likely cracked. This is often the hose that connects from the bottom of the valve and goes to the oil dipstick pipe.

Spray clean the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. Spray lightly to avoid damaging delicate wires. Let the MAF fully dry before reconnecting.
Don't use aftermarket oiled air filters like K&N, they can foul the MAF.

01+ cars have DISA valve problems. Pre 01 cars don't have DISA problems. The DISA is a black box 4" high 6" wide on the side of the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF. Take this out and check it. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. The base orange gasket (01+) shrinks over time and creates a vacuum leak. Place a 6" piece of electric tape on a table top. Cut it half width with a razor. Place one layer of half width electric tape over the base orange gasket. This will thicken the gasket and create a tight seal with the intake manifold.

Replace the fuel filter. This gets clogged.

Replace sparkplugs, air filter.

With the coils engine cover off and the lights off, look at the coils to note any electrical arcing.

The pre-cat O2 sensors have a lifespan of 100k miles.
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:59 AM   #1085
Acidic
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i just placed an order. will do this project over the weekend.

btw thank you Rajaie for all your help.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:43 AM   #1086
matsoki
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WOW Just read the thread and have ordered;

Seal Kit
Rattle Kit
Vice Jaws

I'm going to check the CCV, DISA & ICV & boot while there on there way to me in the UK.

Cheers Rajaie, top man!!!
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:28 AM   #1087
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VANOs ReBuild

Just finished up on 1,000 miles highway/city driving after doing my seals. Car is a whole new beast! Gone is a diesel type of knocking when the engine was cold and there was a lot of lost power that i had not felt was missing just because i was used it. I was not having cold start issues. Car feels brand new now!
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:31 AM   #1088
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Just helped a friend install the single vanos seal and rattle kit on his E36 325i M50TU. The vanos rattle is gone and low end torque is back.

I was one of the first who got Rajaie's double vanos seal kits (probably the first in SE Asia) almost 2 yrs ago. This is my 4th installation (on different cars of course). As usual, the results are just outstanding. The rattle kit for those who have the problem is another product that works perfectly.
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:01 AM   #1089
Rajaie
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Originally Posted by ssm1991 View Post
Just helped a friend install the single vanos seal and rattle kit on his E36 325i M50TU. The vanos rattle is gone and low end torque is back.

I was one of the first who got Rajaie's double vanos seal kits (probably the first in SE Asia) almost 2 yrs ago. This is my 4th installation (on different cars of course). As usual, the results are just outstanding. The rattle kit for those who have the problem is another product that works perfectly.
Thanks!
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:17 AM   #1090
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Great post. Keep me udated please. Might need replacing as well.
Pm with listing
thanks
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:27 PM   #1091
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I just did mine and finished it. Took me time to post here for update because i broke the hose which really breaks around 70k-120k miles. and its very fragile around that miles. and really took me some hours just to change these hoses.

First i want to say thank you Raj for helping me, Talking to the phone and giving me pointers on whatz and howz. thank you for all the help bro! I appreciated it! took me 4 hours to change the vanos seal, its worth it. my car runs smooth...

as i mentioned while i was doing this i broke the hose ( http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15 ) part #2. and to fix that i have to order 1,3,4 and 7. thanx to rajaie for sending me the link for DIY. it really helped me a lot. i dont really have experience on doing mechanical work but bcuz of people like Rajaie it became possible to do this kind of work. i learned a lot also. Anyway im glad i broke the hose bcuz of that i found out that i really have to change those hoses bcause they are so brittle it can break anytime. took me some hours to finish it because theres not much space on changing the oil separator. other than that its easy DIY. some of them rate it 8/10 because it is really time consuming and hard bcuz of not having much space to work on. now my car is in perfect condition, running clean oil to the clean hoses to the engine. perfect. it took me some hours to change these hoses

Back to the vanos seal. DIY is not hard at all but it takes time to take out screws, electrical wires and taking out the Fan. Make sure u have the right tool all ready use to finish the project faster. removing the fan, make sure u have the tool to stop the fan clutch and the belts on moving. everything will go smooth just follow the DIY and ull encounter no problems

Other than the vanos seal and the hoses i went ahead and change my belt while the fan is out, now my belts are new and the car runnning smooth. btw i change the belt cuz i found out that it started to rip and thank God i found out about this before it really gave up.

Thank you Rajaie for being an awesome Fanatic. Thank you for all the help bro!

Last edited by Acidic; 11-06-2009 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:51 PM   #1092
Rajaie
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Originally Posted by Acidic View Post
I just did mine and finished it. Took me time to post here for update because i broke the hose which really breaks around 70k-120k miles. and its very fragile around that miles. and really took me some hours just to change these hoses.

First i want to say thank you Raj for helping me, Talking to the phone and giving me pointers on whatz and howz. thank you for all the help bro! I appreciated it! took me 4 hours to change the vanos seal, its worth it. my car runs smooth...

as i mentioned while i was doing this i broke the hose ( http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15 ) part #2. and to fix that i have to order 1,3,4 and 7. thanx to rajaie for sending me the link for DIY. it really helped me a lot. i dont really have experience on doing mechanical work but bcuz of people like Rajaie it became possible to do this kind of work. i learned a lot also. Anyway im glad i broke the hose bcuz of that i found out that i really have to change those hoses bcause they are so brittle it can break anytime. took me some hours to finish it because theres not much space on changing the oil separator. other than that its easy DIY. some of them rate it 8/10 because it is really time consuming and hard bcuz of not having much space to work on. now my car is in perfect condition, running clean oil to the clean hoses to the engine. perfect. it took me some hours to change these hoses

Back to the vanos seal. DIY is not hard at all but it takes time to take out screws, electrical wires and taking out the Fan. Make sure u have the right tool all ready use to finish the project faster. removing the fan, make sure u have the tool to stop the fan clutch and the belts on moving. everything will go smooth just follow the DIY and ull encounter no problems

Other than the vanos seal and the hoses i went ahead and change my belt while the fan is out, now my belts are new and the car runnning smooth. btw i change the belt cuz i found out that it started to rip and thank God i found out about this before it really gave up.

Thank you Rajaie for being an awesome Fanatic. Thank you for all the help bro!
Congrats on the repairs!!
Thanks for the kind comments. I was glad to help.
Now you need to drive the car hard to break in the new seals.
Enjoy the new ride!
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Old 11-06-2009, 04:18 PM   #1093
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do u know how many miles to go for me to feel the difference? right now my car feel smooth. or maybe its just me...
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Old 11-06-2009, 04:21 PM   #1094
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do u know how many miles to go for me to feel the difference? right now my car feel smooth. or maybe its just me...
You need 200 city miles to break in the seals and achieve optimal performance.
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Old 11-06-2009, 04:29 PM   #1095
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ok 200 miles.. that would be a month from now
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:31 PM   #1096
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Cold Motor Dies

WOW! I should have checked this Vanos thing out months ago. Cold morning starts results in sporatic rpms and sometimes will die. It has been to the dealer with this problem when it was still under warranty but they said there was NO problem, and could not get it to die on the cold morning start.

There is no codes and seems to run ok once it is on the road. I here there is a way to check this by disconnecting the vanos intake solenoid electrical connector.

Can someone tell me where it is?
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:38 PM   #1097
Rajaie
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WOW! I should have checked this Vanos thing out months ago. Cold morning starts results in sporatic rpms and sometimes will die. It has been to the dealer with this problem when it was still under warranty but they said there was NO problem, and could not get it to die on the cold morning start.

There is no codes and seems to run ok once it is on the road. I here there is a way to check this by disconnecting the vanos intake solenoid electrical connector.

Can someone tell me where it is?
The vanos intake solenoid is just to the left of the engine oil filter canister. It's a metal cylinder 1" diameter, 2" long. Disconnect the electrical connector at the end of it. Press in the metal clip and pull off the connector.
If the idle jolts cease itís the vanos seals.
This symptom is an epidemic with 99-00 M52TU engine cars.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:55 PM   #1098
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Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
The vanos intake solenoid is just to the left of the engine oil filter canister. It's a metal cylinder 1" diameter, 2" long. Disconnect the electrical connector at the end of it. Press in the metal clip and pull off the connector.
If the idle jolts cease itís the vanos seals.
This symptom is an epidemic with 99-00 M52TU engine cars.
Rajaie, ok I found it. Do i let it run for a while, then unplug it? Or unplug it before I start it? I will let it sit overnight and start it in the am.
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:47 PM   #1099
Rajaie
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Rajaie, ok I found it. Do i let it run for a while, then unplug it? Or unplug it before I start it? I will let it sit overnight and start it in the am.
Unplug it before you start the engine.
Really any approach will work.
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:32 AM   #1100
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I hope Rajaie doesn't mind, but this is from his website.
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu...s/image024.jpg
You can see him unplugging that connector. Note: the valve cover is off, but you can see the valve cover vent hose (black) and the location of the connector.
That was just to help you locate it, not that you need to disconnect that vent hose. It's easy to get to the connector.

**EDIT** my bad, just noticed he already found it in the prev post. Well this is a good picture for anyone else looking for it.
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