E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 3 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 01-30-2008, 05:09 PM   #1
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
Head Removal on E46

So Ive got a 323ci, and it blew a head gasket... still runs... but has low compression in two cylinders and uses coolant... usual head gasket problems.

So I have to change the head gasket. Im about... 40% there... (50% being everything taken apart..)

Anyhow, I have been doing all the work myself. Ive got the intake manifold off, today I got the VANOS off and got all the cam sprockets off. I am taking "decent" pictures and notes on the stuff... but nothing overkill... I will write up a little DIY when im all done for others on this site because when I was origonally looking for information on it, it was hard to find.

Ive realized the only two bmw speacialty tools you need are the camshaft locating fixture and the flywheel tdc locking pin... And you dont REALLY need the pin...

If anybody has any questions about head removal before i get the guide complete, ask me, and i'll be happy to help you out
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 01-30-2008, 09:15 PM   #2
dpgrand
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 1,284
My Ride: 2005 330xi
good luck with the VANOS install. If it isn't perfect...there goes your engine!
__________________
'05 330xi - Koni, H&R, Rogue, Supersprint, UUC, Dinan, Apex
dpgrand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2008, 09:50 PM   #3
vaio76109
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 8,828
My Ride: Race Cars
Subscribe. I assume you're using a Bentley manual or something? One thing to be very careful about is how you loosen and tighten the head back on the block as you don't want to bend the head.
vaio76109 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2008, 11:30 PM   #4
elite53
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tacoma,WA
Posts: 742
My Ride: Twin Screwed 325Ci
Very interested.
elite53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 12:13 AM   #5
ROYIII
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: atl
Posts: 55
My Ride: bmw 325ci
the vanos install is actually pretty straightfoward see http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

its the timing i would be worried about.
and whether or not the head bolts will hold torque.
ROYIII is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 12:22 AM   #6
Toadfart
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 330
My Ride: 04 330i ZHP
Just don't reuse the head bolts and don't forget to lube them up to get an accurate reading with the torque wrench. Might not be a bad idea to replace the head bolts with ARP head bolts. Good luck!!!
Toadfart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 11:21 AM   #7
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
new

The head bolts are one time use stretch head bolts, so yes, I will be replacing them. The vanos is actually not that big of a pain as people might be thinking. My friend has an M3 e46, ive just got a 323ci, but he had his head rebuilt, removed the vanos, and everything without even using the special tools. The special tools DO help though.. but the only one you really need is the "Camshaft Locating Fixture".

As far as the timing goes... its not super complicated... Basically you need to make sure that both the cams are at TDC. Theres two ways to tell this, first off, the first set of lobes (for cylinder one) must be pointing towards each other but up... forming an angle sort of.




and heres the camshaft locating fixture:


Another way to make sure the cams are in TDC is that the Camshaft locating fixture hooks on at the BACK of the cams... (rear of head). it goes over the two square spots.. They have 2 dots on the side of them that is TDC... So just make sure that the dots are facing up... then put the locating fixture on it and it is in TDC

The second thing for timing is the Crank must be in TDC. This is pretty simple... if you look down at the crank pulley, at the top of the crank on the block, there is a vertical line that protrudes from the block... its about 3/4 of an inch long. On the crank pulley itself there is "O/T" drawn where the TDC position is. Mine was worn off!!!!! so, that means before disconnecting the chain, put the engine in TDC by means of the cams, then the crank will automatically be in TDC, and make a mark on the crank pulley where it lines up with the line on the block... I hope that made some sense... I'll try and get some more pictures... If you have questions, ask, that way I can be sure to include the answers for it in the DIY im gonna write..
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 11:28 AM   #8
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
Oh, also, there is a method that I have learned through Pelican for removing the camshafts and it does work without the need for the special tool from bmw to remove the cams... The cams are HOLLOW, and will break if they are taken off improperly. BMW claims they will break if taken off without the tool... This is NOT the case, because pelicans method has been performed by many, HOWEVER, I cant be held responsible for you breaking your cam nor can pelican... Its your decision to do this method or not. Its worked for me.. And should work for you too. Just remember, the cams are FRAGILE! And take all the precautions you can to not break them.. If you DO break them however, it would suck, HOWEVER its not the end of the world! I believe the cams are 500 dollars each from BMW... or something along those lines... so they CAN be replaced, but of course... you dont want to have to replace them... lol.
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 03:26 PM   #9
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
progress update

heres an update on my progress. Head is OFF the block. Some little hints...

The REAR exhaust manifold bolts are pretty much impossible to remove because of their location... You simply cant get a tool in there.. So, I just undid the exhaust manifold at its joint to the exhaust pipe... and pulled off the head with the rear exhaust manifold attached to it, then unbolted it once out of the car. You probably could pull out the front exhaust manifold attached as well... but I chose to unbolt it cause it was possible fairly easily in the car.

I got the cams removed, lifters removed, and everything packed up in ziplock baggies and labeled. Now the head is off to the machine shop for a deep cleaning, get the valves ground/replaced, new valve guides, checked for cracks/warpage... And will be surfaced to provide a nice clean seat for the new head gasket

heres some pictures.


dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 06:32 PM   #10
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
And, im getting the valve seats ground... Should be pretty much a new head when its all said and done
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 06:58 PM   #11
elite53
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tacoma,WA
Posts: 742
My Ride: Twin Screwed 325Ci
Great info so far. I would be very interested to hear some rough estimate prices for the work you are having done. Also, where it's being done.
elite53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 07:01 PM   #12
AdamBath
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 3,086
My Ride: E30
tell me about those exhaust manifold bolts! i had to get the front manifold out of there first, then get a universal out to get those in the back, from underneath the car...
__________________
AdamBath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 08:06 PM   #13
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
im

well, I normally would have done the head work myself at my school, because they have a surfacer, valve grinder, and valve seat grinder, but im between semesters, so I cant use the shop

But im having it done at a place that a buddy of mine works. For 250 bucks he is doing a deep cleaning on it, checking for cracks/warpage, grinding the valves, grinding valve seats, Checking/replacing valve guides as needed, and then surfacing the head to clean up the bottom of it a little bit

I normally would just want to do it myself to save money, but when it comes down to it, im already short on time, so its nice to get a little break while the head work is being performed.

Other then the head work, im doing all the removal/installation myself.

Adambath, yeah... im glad to see I wasnt the only person having trouble with the exhaust manifold bolts! haha.
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2008, 12:43 AM   #14
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
Well, heres my plans for while the head is out getting the work done. I plan on doing a deep clean of my engine bay. It is filthy!!! haha. This will help to make it easier to work on in the future as well. I'll get some before and after pictures once I do it
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2008, 12:39 AM   #15
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
head should be back tommorow. Then i'll get some pictures of everything getting put back together again
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2008, 08:36 AM   #16
dpgrand
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Providence, RI
Posts: 1,284
My Ride: 2005 330xi
cant wait to see some more pics man!
__________________
'05 330xi - Koni, H&R, Rogue, Supersprint, UUC, Dinan, Apex
dpgrand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2008, 10:35 AM   #17
Ted13B
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 322
My Ride: 07 Z4 Coupe
Before you go any further, drop the old head gasket in place, drop the head on, and make sure the head bolts will torque. When these engines overheat, the head can warp, lifting off the block, stripping out the head bolt threads in the block. BMW has a bulletin on this, and recommends checking for torque before you get too deep. If they won't torque, it's time for an engine.
Ted13B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2008, 12:14 PM   #18
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
Yeah

The head was checked for straightness and it didn't warp. I can understand how that could be a possibility, but keep in mind, the head bolts are stretch bolt for a reason so they stretch instead of hurting the block. Worse comes to worse, it would just strip out the threading in the block. Yes, thats not good, I know. LOL. But it doesn't mean your engine is over. You can repair threads with helicoil if you have to. My friend actually did that to his e30 and it repaired just fine.
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2008, 10:10 AM   #19
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
heads back

so the head is back from the machine shop... I will probably be working on it tommorow cause today I am working on my garage... but heres a picture

dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2008, 10:12 AM   #20
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
oh

oh, and there was a slight crack in one of the water passages, but they were able to repair it Its got all new exhaust valves, new exhaust guides.. surfaced... the whole shabang
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Censor is OFF





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use