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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 02-09-2008, 01:11 PM   #21
Ted13B
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The E30 block is steel, while the E46 is aluminum. BMW says the overheat will actually compromise the strength of the block, so helicoil is not an option. Here's the bulletin, 11-06-06

SUBJECT
Head Bolt Threads Pulling Out of Block During Engine Reassembly


MODEL
All Models equipped with M52TU and M54


SITUATION
While performing the torque procedure on the cylinder head during engine reassembly, the head bolt threads strip out of the block. Typically, this occurs during the repair of an engine that has been overheated.

CAUSE
Overheat condition has weakened the structure of the aluminum block assembly in the area of the bolt threads.

PROCEDURE
In cases where an M54 engine needs to be disassembled due to an overheating event, the following steps should be taken:

Before removing the cylinder head, loosen and re-torque each head bolt to ensure thread strength and integrity.

If all head bolts achieve correct torque, proceed with cylinder head removal. Once removed, use a straight edge on the block surface, as well as the cylinder head, to determine any deviation caused by the overheat. Be especially aware of any protrusion of the cylinder liners above the surface of the block.

If a head bolt strips during the re-torque, replace the engine.

[ Copyright 2006 BMW of North America, LLC ]
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:20 PM   #22
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good info ^^^^
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:37 AM   #23
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block clean

the block is all cleaned up, and the cams are back in the head and torqued to spec New head bolts are in... it appears like... its ready to put the head back on!! today Im gonna get the exhaust manifolds bolted to the head, then drop the whole head+exhaust manifold in at once... cause torqueing the exhaust manifold bolts to spec will be pretty much impossible while in the car cause of the location of them, with the body in the way... and Im pretty positive that this method will work just fine as well... i'll keep you updated. Ive got the new head bolts ready to use. Hopefully today I'll get the head installed and torqued to spec... then ive just got intake manifold, vanos, the bazillion connectors... a broken vacum hose to replace... eh, I still have some things to do. haha. But its making progress, which is important


Last edited by dirtbiker245; 02-14-2008 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:41 AM   #24
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you can torque the headbolts with the cams installed?
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:10 PM   #25
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of course

of course you can. I removed them with the cams installed. the only part that is difficult with the cams installed is to get the cylinder head bolt washers into place... but with a screwdriver, you can position them correctly no problem
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Old 02-14-2008, 12:42 PM   #26
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I was going to mention the problem with head bolts pulling out the block threads. Maybe it would be safer to run ARP studs. Studs will probably be impossible if the engine is still in the car.
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Old 02-14-2008, 04:16 PM   #27
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well

well, the head is on the car and torqued to spec. Everything worked out perfectly, no thread problems.

Also, bolting on the exhaust manifolds first cut down on ALOT of time. It did make it REALLY heavy and akward though... but I managed to lift it by myself and maneuver it into place carefully. I am thinking that is probably why the manual reccommends installing the cams and exhaust manifolds in the car... but... personally, id do it again the way I did it, its MUCH easier then cutting up your hands trying to get those bolts on and off. But next time, I might get a friend to help me lift it... my back isnt doing to hot right now. lol.
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Old 02-20-2008, 03:17 PM   #28
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well

well.... I was hoping to get this finished up this week... but its wednesday, and im taking a long weekend this weekend so its probably not happening this week, especially since im waiting on some parts that I broke to come from pelicanparts :-P I probably really only need one full day of work to finish it up... which translates to about a week and a half of working on it since I have so many other things to do. lol. I'll get some more pictures soon

Also, a little hint on things... while you have everything apart when you do this job, clean up all the parts that you have access too A clean engine bay always looks much better then a dirty one. The car will like you for it too! haha.
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:39 PM   #29
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any updates?
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:50 PM   #30
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update

well... ive got a slight update I guess. lol. I got two of the parts I needed from pelican (the chain guide rail and the PCV tube... but im still waiting on ONE torx bolt that holds the chain guide rail on. Its backordered... but should be getting in within the next few days

Heres how it looks (kinda bad picture cause there is a shadow in it... oh well)

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Old 02-25-2008, 03:59 PM   #31
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I have installed probably 30 M54TU heads over the years. One thing I hope you did was zip tie the secondary cam chain to the sprockets. They only go on one way (each sprocket oriented to the other). Also, I hope you didn't remove the T50 torx bolt from the end of each cam - the vanos spline piece is held and located by friction only! And of of course you need a degree gauge to tighten the head bolts. Do not use ARP or any aftermarket headbolt. Even when I build race engines I stick to the factory parts.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:54 PM   #32
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thanks

thanks for the tips... I have the bentley manual.... so yes, it warns about removing the torx bolts from the ends of the camshafts. So I knew not to remove those. As for the sprockets... they have markings on the front that say "front" on the intake side, and "F" for front on the exhaust side... kinda self explanatory... But in either cause, i removed them both together with the chain and they were kept together so they wont be put on backwards but that is a good point that you make... and the zipties sound like a great idea to help eliminate the possibility of error. As for the headbolts, I went with the factory headbolts HOWEVER I must say, ARP studs are a better choice in my opinion... but they are pretty much impossible to get lined up right unless the block is OUT of the car... since I am doing this repair IN the car, I chose to stick with factory headbolts.

And as for the "degree guage", they say to go in 90 degree turn increments for the torque specs... aka, 1/4 turn... you can pull out a protractor if you like... but... the degree guage is definitely not needed. For those of you having trouble with a 1/4 turn, that is from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.

Thanks though for all these tips they are helpful to me, and Im sure others have found them helpful as well

Last edited by dirtbiker245; 02-25-2008 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:56 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by dirtbiker245 View Post
And as for the "degree guage", they say to go in 90 degree turn increments for the torque specs... aka, 1/4 turn... you can pull out a protractor if you like... but... the degree guage is definitely not needed. For those of you having trouble with a 1/4 turn, that is from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:58 PM   #34
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While I understand your confidence with the 12 - 3 o'clock example, I think you are missing the point of my comments. You can easily turn your engine into scrap. The ARP bolts are not better. They don't work, and you'll be right back to where you started. They were never intended for the aluminum block. The factory stretch bolts follow Hook's law of plastic deformation and the strength it provides. It is not about torque. The zip ties are there for the orientation of each sprocket relative to the other, not about getting it wrong front to back. You will find out all of this when you try to put it back together and nothing lines up. If you can't get the vanos cam depth gauge tool, try to borrow it from the dealer. If they won't lend it, let me know and I'll give you measurements that will work. If you don't get them right, the car won't have much power.
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:21 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by dirtbiker245 View Post
If you DO break them however, it would suck, HOWEVER its not the end of the world! I believe the cams are 500 dollars each from BMW... or something along those lines... so they CAN be replaced, but of course... you dont want to have to replace them... lol.
Problem is, if you broke it getting it out because of improper tools or procedures, you will likely break the new one(s)during the install....
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:52 AM   #36
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yeah

yeah, I know what you mean. I must say though, after doing it once, I wouldnt hesitate to do it again at all. It was pretty straightforward... just physics... basically, you make it so there is no upward force on the cam anywhere except for from one lobe set... There is a bearing cap between the two lobes from the set, so it distributes the pressure equally on each side, plus they are right next to it, so the strain is practically non-existent (minimal at worst).

Im not gonna lie though, this is the part that worried me the most about removing the head, but it went very smoothly with no issues whatsoever.
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Old 02-27-2008, 01:55 PM   #37
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Where is the location to crank to shaft to TDC and what rotation?
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Old 02-27-2008, 02:17 PM   #38
dirtbiker245
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the TDC mark

The TDC mark is literally just a little line on the timing cover... and another "etch" on the crank pulley.... mine was very confusing to locate at first because i was looking for something with some number indicators, for degrees BTDC... but they dont have that...

I just tried to get a picture of it... and failed miserably... but this was the best one I could find... it doesnt specifically show it, however it DOES show where it is CIRCLED in red.

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Old 02-27-2008, 02:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtbiker245 View Post
The TDC mark is literally just a little line on the timing cover... and another "etch" on the crank pulley.... mine was very confusing to locate at first because i was looking for something with some number indicators, for degrees BTDC... but they dont have that...

I just tried to get a picture of it... and failed miserably... but this was the best one I could find... it doesnt specifically show it, however it DOES show where it is CIRCLED in red.

Thanks for the quick reply. What is the best way to crank this to this mark. Some say to rotate the rear wheel until TDC.
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:11 PM   #40
dirtbiker245
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put

put a end wrench/socket on the crank pulley bolt (I believe its a 23mm... possibly a 22mm) have the car in either neutral, or park, and simply turn it till its there...
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