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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 08-08-2008, 01:47 PM   #101
hoveringuy
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Hi,

I've done this with single VANOS but not dual. Can someone give me the Readers Digest (tm) version of what the depth plate does and how it works?

Thanks, Hoveringuy
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Old 08-08-2008, 03:33 PM   #102
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basically

Basically, the camshafts have these "plunger" things that move in and out... By moving, they change the timing of the cams... its a quite simple concept actually. The problem is that to set up the timing, you must have the "plungers" in a CERTAIN spot... and exact spot.. that cant be off at all. The Vanos setup bracket bolts where the VANOS actuator would bolt, and it is machined to the exact depths/heights that the plungers need to be set at... so basically.. you just bolt it on and it puts the plungers where its supposed to be.. theres more steps then that.. but thats the basics... you said you wanted the basics. lol
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Old 08-08-2008, 11:40 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrshelley View Post
I've done a few of these things. Here's a few tips:
-you can make the crank locking pin from a M14 bolt and a grinder (reduce the end of it down until you can get it into the flywheel)
-do the zip tie thing that Matt said (I have at least two assemblies ready to go)
-follow what the Bentley manual says (I've done this 50-60 times and still go step by step from the Bentley manual).
-you can heli coil a overheated block (I've done it plenty of times)
-take an old head bolt and use it as a "grease applicator" for the block. I take an old head bolt and apply grease to it then thread it down into each hole in the block. I apply a thin coat for each hole
-take your time when torquing the bolts. A classmate of mine from college is a fastener engineer for Victor Reinz (who happens to make the head bolts for BMW's). After the first 90 degree turn, work on something else for about 10 minutes. Then do the second 90 degree turn.

Here's a pic of all I use to set the cam timing:
Great advice.

I'll be following this when the time comes...
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:44 PM   #104
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Great writeup. Great thread. I am in the middle of a head gasket job as well. Unfortunately I had a stripped head bolt and, when I checked the others, I found 3 more that wouldn't torque. I bought the timecert kit, $200, and did them all. I am going to do a writeup, with pictures, for anybody interested. I need the tools to set cam timing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Set-3...mZ170234979749 Can I borrow or rent from anyone? I also noticed the arrows on the exhaust cam sprockets. I am not sure on the orientation of the arrows. Anybody have picts? This should be a sticky.
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:54 PM   #105
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PM sent to dirtbiker245 THANKS!
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Old 08-09-2008, 06:57 PM   #106
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you set the arrows so they point to the surface of the head
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:31 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrshelley View Post
-you can heli coil a overheated block (I've done it plenty of times)

You meant a Timesert correct? I personally wouldnt use a helicoil on the block for the headbolts. I've seen simple helicoil repairs on brake caliper bolts falling apart to peices.

All I use are Timeserts.

To the OP good write up.

Jared
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Old 08-11-2008, 12:26 PM   #108
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Just thought i'd give an update. No problems so far. Car passed smog finally. No check engine lights still.. ive put almost 1000 miles on it since I re-timed it last week. Took it on a trip for the weekend. Drove great.

And yes, im still working on the guide... im gonna put a couple more paragraphs up right now its getting there guys... slowly but surely
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Old 08-11-2008, 01:24 PM   #109
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eh, two updates in one day cant hurt! lol. I have finished the BASIC timing procedure write up. I will hopefully finish up the rest of the guide sometime this week... Once all the text has been written up, then I can start finding pictures to go along with it
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Old 09-19-2008, 12:53 PM   #110
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I Time Serted my head a few days ago and have some observations:

There are 3 versions of Time Sert available for this job. A 24.5mm one that countersinks 6mm just like the stock threads, a 30mm one that is almost flush with the surface, and a 24.5mm one that is almost flush with the surface.

The 24.5mm flush insert is a generic head repair kit. It's the one that Baum Tools sells with their jig. I don't recommend it and Time Sert was suprised that they are selling it for the BMW repairs.

Time Sert sells the 24.5mm w/countersink kit for BMW and full lentgh 30mm. The 30mm kit is their "orignal" BMW kit and then they developed the 24.5mm w/countersink after some BMW techies complained about the lack of countersink and the potential effect on bolt torque (it makes the bolt shank slightly shorter).

Bottom line, I chose the 30mm kit. Thread engagement in the potentially weakened aluminum is the weak point of the repair and I wanted as much of it as I could get.

My head torqued and held.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:45 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoveringuy View Post
There are 3 versions of Time Sert available for this job. A 24.5mm one that countersinks 6mm just like the stock threads, a 30mm one that is almost flush with the surface, and a 24.5mm one that is almost flush with the surface.

The 24.5mm flush insert is a generic head repair kit. It's the one that Baum Tools sells with their jig. I don't recommend it and Time Sert was suprised that they are selling it for the BMW repairs.

Time Sert sells the 24.5mm w/countersink kit for BMW and full lentgh 30mm. The 30mm kit is their "orignal" BMW kit and then they developed the 24.5mm w/countersink after some BMW techies complained about the lack of countersink and the potential effect on bolt torque (it makes the bolt shank slightly shorter).
How deep does the head bold typically thread into the engine block? Do the two 24.5mm kits differ in that one has a counterbore that cuts 6mm deep and one doesn't?
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:39 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrshelley View Post
I've done a few of these things. Here's a few tips:
-you can make the crank locking pin from a M14 bolt and a grinder (reduce the end of it down until you can get it into the flywheel)
-do the zip tie thing that Matt said (I have at least two assemblies ready to go)
-follow what the Bentley manual says (I've done this 50-60 times and still go step by step from the Bentley manual).
-you can heli coil a overheated block (I've done it plenty of times)
-take an old head bolt and use it as a "grease applicator" for the block. I take an old head bolt and apply grease to it then thread it down into each hole in the block. I apply a thin coat for each hole
-take your time when torquing the bolts. A classmate of mine from college is a fastener engineer for Victor Reinz (who happens to make the head bolts for BMW's). After the first 90 degree turn, work on something else for about 10 minutes. Then do the second 90 degree turn.

Here's a pic of all I use to set the cam timing:
I'm curious about why you should wait after the first 90 deg turn on the bolts. Is it to do with the heat produced by the stretch? I'll be tackling my head gasket soon, the weather is still a little chilly. Also, when you grease the threads, does this cause increased pressure or trap air/moisture in the bolt holes that will expand when the engine gets up to temp? (blind holes I'm assuming)
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:11 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by willsbma View Post
I'm curious about why you should wait after the first 90 deg turn on the bolts. Is it to do with the heat produced by the stretch? I'll be tackling my head gasket soon, the weather is still a little chilly. Also, when you grease the threads, does this cause increased pressure or trap air/moisture in the bolt holes that will expand when the engine gets up to temp? (blind holes I'm assuming)
Don't think you are to grease the holes or the head bolts. The holes are supposed to be clean and dry. Just use the bolts as they come from the manufacturer.
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:33 AM   #114
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Dirtbiker, You are the best! My 2003 overheated the day after I bought it. I'm reading your head replacement guide in case the dealer doesn't cover it. White smoke coming out the exhaust, so I'm pretty sure the head gasket is gone, not sure about the head and block. Your happy can-do spirit is inspiring. I've done a couple of Suburban diesel rebuild installs, so I'm not afraid of the effort, but was intimidated by the "German engineering" precision and technology that might be required, even though I'm a German engineer. After reading your guide, I'm ready to go. Thanks bro!
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