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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-29-2011, 07:48 PM   #61
Mesa3077Boogie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp333 View Post
Lots of threads on this. Try the search engine......
ok well then how bout the kit i mentioned?
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:08 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Mesa3077Boogie View Post
ok well then how bout the kit i mentioned?
Well that too is on the forum.

bmwmercedesparts.com has cheap prices and good people to deal with.

And of course the sponsors.

http://directory.e46fanatics.com/sit...tesponsorindex
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:10 AM   #63
westof5
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t-stat tool

Mentioned is a thermostat tool and ways of getting around buying the tool.

I do not recommend the hammer technique because you will probably break something and the ST is cheap anyways.

I am super budget so after dangerously trying the wrench and hammer teq to no avail I needed the ST. Previous owner/mechanic was down there and did not put any anti-seize on the fan clutch bolt.

With the ST and help from a 280 lbs. friend turning the opp direction it came loose....finally.

I went to my indy and asked to borrow the tool over the weekend when he was closed anyways.
Borrowed a big friend and... ta dah!

Special Tool = 0$
big friend = 0$
running bimmer with new t-stat=.........not priceless but if got to NAPA on the second saturday of the month you get employee discount...
so oem t-stat at 50% price plus buy a case of beer and celebrate.

Dealership ~ $ 800
My way ~ awesome!
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:40 PM   #64
E46M56
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Special thermostat tool????

When you say special thermostat tool, are you talking about the tool to take off the fan? Because from what I remember, I only needed a special tool for the fan removal. Actually it was two tools, the holder and the special wrench. From there on, I only used regular metric sockets and wrenches. I did a whole cooling system replacement (radiator, expansion tank, thermostat, water pump, pulleys, tensioner and belts)
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:36 PM   #65
westof5
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correct. i was a lil tipsy when i wrote that one.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:50 PM   #66
aleksankazakov
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I just finished my DIY and I didnt remove the expansion tank, I had to take the whole assembly out because the tank would not come out. Then I hammered it off the plastic assembly . The AT thermostat broke off just as i expected. Plastic on that assembly and on the thermostat reminded me chocolate. It was crumbling easy with fingers. So now I replaced, the hoses, the expansion tank, the AT thermostat, the main thermostat and the assembly. Total part's cost exceeded 500 USD. I used prestone golden coolant . Everything mounted plug and play easily. My advice is not to remove old tank and just buy the assembly and the AT thermostat and put the new tank on the new assembly. Easier this way.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:58 PM   #67
E46M56
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Originally Posted by aleksankazakov View Post
I used prestone golden coolant .
What!? You didnt use the blue BMW coolant!? BIG mistake!!!!
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:37 AM   #68
aleksankazakov
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Originally Posted by E46M56 View Post
What!? You didnt use the blue BMW coolant!? BIG mistake!!!!
there is a forum about coolant, people agree that coolant is coolant ( as long as it is high quality) BMW also has synthetic oil BMW brand which is castrol which is 10$ more
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:47 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by E46M56 View Post
What!? You didnt use the blue BMW coolant!? BIG mistake!!!!
As long as the cooland or oil is German you can use it. BMW doesn't make coolant they buy it from coolant manufacturers. The same with oil. BMW brand oil is actually castrol full synthetic
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:03 PM   #70
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I want to add something to the step of this DIY noted below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by beberle View Post

4. Remove the expansion tank. Note: there's an electrical connection on the bottom of the expansion tank. Disconnect this 1st so that you don't forget while yanking the tank out. There's a hose on the side and two connections at the top. Have fun getting these off! Fortunately, you're replacing everything, so you don't have to be gentle Now for the fun part.. Yank and pull for all you're worth, straight up, to get the expansion tank out. Did you forget the quick disconnect that's holding it to the Transmission Thermostat? You've probably broken the thermostat, but you don't care because you have a new one. Pull straight up until you feel it release, then push the top of the tank away from the radiator and pull the rest of the way out.
You DONīT NEED TO REMOVE THE EXPANSION TANK FROM THE SUPPORT, you can actually take it off with the support attached without risking to break the transmission thermostat, which would add $60 bucks to your repair expenses.

To remove the expansion tank with the support you will need to remove all the hoses and the transmission cooler first of course, and 2 torx screws, one is located in the upper part, side of the radiator by the headlight. The other is below the expansion tank, facing the engine side, once you remove them you can just pull the entire assembly from the base of the radiator towards the engine and it will pop off, thereīs only one connecting pipe with an o ring and thatīs all. You can remove the expansion tank with its support base out and follow the DIY.

Of course, when you locate both torx screws you will notice that the position is almost impossible to access with a torx screwdriver, thatīs when you will need this tool : http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1&ddkey=Search using this and the appropiate torx bit (T25), you can remove both screws and do the job without problems. Also, the tools is very handy for other uses and is less expensive than a new transmission thermostat.
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:17 PM   #71
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Just wanted to add a little something in terms of radiator fitting.

So in Dec 2010 I did this whole overhaul, went OEM with everything except the Behr Radiator for my 07/2004 built 330Ci - well the mounting plate didn't line up with the holes (off by 0.5cm -1.0 cm) and gave up on replacing the radiator. Well, finally the radiator is going. Going with Modine this time around
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Last edited by tommersyip; 06-12-2012 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Typos
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:22 AM   #72
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Great job op
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Last edited by srbija 328i; 06-20-2012 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:10 PM   #73
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I didn't need to remove the transmission cooler when I removed my radiator.

Here's some photos. There are two torx screws on the upper right driver's side and lower right driver's side that hold in the radiator besides the two that run across the top. It took me a bit to find those, but other than that the only issue I had was with the lower radiator hose. It would not come off and there is no room to put your hand in there to remove it, because it sits so close to the a/c compressor. Since I had the front of the car jacked up, I was able to just remove the other end of the hose from the thermostat and then drop the radiator. Once it was out from under the car I was able to pull straight up from the radiator a few times and finally that damn hose came off. That was the worst part for me. Now, just waiting on a new radiator. My wasn't leaking but the top right hose connecter section on the radiator literally broke off, so there was no temp patching that thing up.

You can see in the 2nd photo, that's what's left of my automatic transmission thermostat.





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Old 01-18-2013, 03:46 PM   #74
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Just wanted to agree with the OP in regards to getting new hoses (upper and lower) when you replace the radiator. I speak from experience. My original hoses did not connect well at all to the Behr radiator. Both upper and lower leaked. The outlet and inlet on the Behr radiator seemed smaller than the original. The hoses were lose upon fitment. In the mean time I wrapped some electrical tape around the radiator connections so the hoses were more snug upon connection. This will hold me over until I get new hoses. Don't be like me. Get new hoses from the start.. !!
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:04 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beberle View Post
Pictures of the 'wedge mounts' on the side of the radiator and corresponding mounts in the car.
Is that plastic peace on the side of the radiator in picture two replaceable or do i have to get a new radiator. Mine cracked and its blowing out steam
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:28 PM   #76
beberle
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The mounts are part of the side radiator plastic. Your radiator is shot unfortunately.
I hate dealing w/ the cooling system :-/

Good luck!
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:24 PM   #77
emrys
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The leak persists?

What follows is a (sorry to be long winded) question, in search of an answer.
But your DIY was golden, flawless and I thank you for it, Bentley was useless.

I followed your DIY to the letter, right down to having to cut off the lower hose. All my parts are new save one fixture on the expansion tank mounting bracket(looking down its on the right side, is mounted on a diagonal. Put it all back together filled it
started it and its leaking on the expansion tank side, and I'm not getting hot air in the cabin, any suggestions?
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:38 PM   #78
CharlzO
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Double check for the seal of the ET on the mount, sometimes it doesn't get seated all the way, or might be an O-ring missing there. Is it possible to identify where exactly your leak is coming from? Probably not getting heat due to excess air coming in through that. But it does depend on where it's leaking as to the possible causes.
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