Electronic Throttle Adaptation reset procedures

the 2nd position, where all the lights go on, just dont start ur engine.

i didn't know 330s could have sport buttons? If it works like it does on the m3, then yeh sport button would negate the need for any of this i assume...

Is there any beep or indication that you did this correctly???

Read previous posts please!

Ok here's the extended procedure for those that seem to have trouble with easy to follow procedure.

To perform this procedure you must have posession of the car keys made for your specific car. The doors must also be unlocked (see door unlock procedure attachment a1.)

1. First open your drivers side car door (to determine which is the drivers door see illustration b1 for British and Japanese or b2 for all others), extending your arm toward the door handle (see illustration d).
2. With your arm extended, open your hand and grab the handle.
3. While still holding the handle, pull the handle toward you until the door opens slightly. (If door is locked, refer to attachment a1. If you cannot determine if it is locked, refer to attachment a2.)
4. While still holding the handle with the door slightly open, pull the door handle toward you until the door is fully open. Optionally you may take one or more steps backward while opening the door.
5. Release the door handle
6. Enter your car (see attachment b1 for entering car procedure) and sit in the drivers seat. (see illustration c1)
7. Take the BMW car key (see illustration d1) in your right hand and insert the key into ignition or what is refered as the off position. (see illustration d2)
8. Turn ignition clockwise (see illustration e1) slowly to the "ON" position. The "ON" position (see illustration e2) is the second position when turning the ignition key. The key positions can be felt by a slight resistance while turning.
9. With the key in the "ON" position, count to 10. (see learning to count to 10 attachment F).
10. When a count of 10 has been reached while in key in the ignition is in the "ON" position, turn the ignition to the "OFF" position (illustration d2).
11. With the ignition now in the off position, count to 10 again. (recall that the first count was in the "ON" position)
12. When a count of 10 has been reached in the "OFF" position, turn the ignition pasing the "ON" position until the sound of the car engine is heard and the car has started. (if you cannot determine if the car has started, refer to the procedure "how to determine if your car is started", attachment g1).
13. Once the car has started, you have completed the procedure.

Once this procedure is complete, if you do not know what to do, immediately turn the ignition to the "OFF" position. Take the key out of the ignition and mail your signed title and car key to me as a donation to the "Teach an idiot how to drive fund". As a bonus your name will be added to the list of recipients.

If you have any problems following this guide let us know and our expert panel of two year olds will be happy to assist you.


A little humor folks, no flames please

The issue with adaptation is that it takes several variants such as pedle position, length of time in position, and weighted average and threshold to give you throttle response. The objective behind this is for driving comfort and to save gas. Yes when you press the gas, the engine will monitor this even and determine if you really want more power. Your DSC plays into this as well which it has to determine current conditions such as temperature or recent slippage activity. If all is well, you get your power but at a price which is "delay".

With increased throttle response comes increased air/fuel ratio and spark advance. So yes, better throttle response, the more "power" you reclaim. Essentially your car adapts to your driving habits and then provides power when it has determined based on your inputs that you need it. If your throttle was closed more with adaptation and somehow through maybe osmosis you could get air, you wouldn't have a power loss. Adaptation works to de-throttle your car during normal driving which leads to loss of performance under these conditions but applying more peddle pressure will return better throttle response.

The basic paralel is sucking through a straw. Your mouth is like the throttle, controling how slow or fast fluid will flow. But if you took your fingers and pinched the straw, your mouth still controls the flow but the flow of fluid is much slower. When you want more flow release your finger and it flows faster again even though your mouth was drawing at the same rate as before.

Originally posted by Atlas
As far as i'm aware...your car won't 'pull harder'.... it will just increase throttle response if u drive slowly quite often.... ie. it will give u more power for less throttle travel; u slightly press the pedal and it'll give u more power. But if u floor it - same amount of power regardless of reset or not.

Originally posted by KevinJ_2k1_325ci
9. With the key in the "ON" position, count to 10. (see learning to count to 10 attachment F).

9a. Thou shalt count only to 10, and the number of the counting shall be 10. Thou shalt not count to 11, neither shall thou count to 9, except that thou shouldst immediately proceed to 10. 12 is right out.
10. When thou reachest 10, being the 10th number of the count while in key in the ignition is in the "ON" position, thou shalt turn the ignition to the "OFF" position (illustration d2).

Sorry for those that don't get this.

Just wondering... do mean to imply that say 0-60 times would improve?

I just think of it as continuously variable throttle response. I myself would prefer it to be not so sharp because i find that the majority of the power is delivered through the first say 1/4 of throttle travel, and the rest of the travel gives hardly anything.

But regardless of how ur computer has adapted the throttle - when you floor it, all the fingers will come off the straw so to speak, and your mouth will be sucking as hard as it can

Originally posted by KevinJ_2k1_325ci
The issue with adaptation is that it takes several variants such as pedle position, length of time in position, and weighted average and threshold to give you throttle response. The objective behind this is for driving comfort and to save gas. Yes when you press the gas, the engine will monitor this even and determine if you really want more power. Your DSC plays into this as well which it has to determine current conditions such as temperature or recent slippage activity. If all is well, you get your power but at a price which is "delay".

With increased throttle response comes increased air/fuel ratio and spark advance. So yes, better throttle response, the more "power" you reclaim. Essentially your car adapts to your driving habits and then provides power when it has determined based on your inputs that you need it. If your throttle was closed more with adaptation and somehow through maybe osmosis you could get air, you wouldn't have a power loss. Adaptation works to de-throttle your car during normal driving which leads to loss of performance under these conditions but applying more peddle pressure will return better throttle response.

The basic paralel is sucking through a straw. Your mouth is like the throttle, controling how slow or fast fluid will flow. But if you took your fingers and pinched the straw, your mouth still controls the flow but the flow of fluid is much slower. When you want more flow release your finger and it flows faster again even though your mouth was drawing at the same rate as before.

Originally posted by KevinJ_2k1_325ci
...(see learning to count to 10 attachment F).

If you have any problems following this guide let us know and our expert panel of two year olds will be happy to assist you.

A little humor folks, no flames please

A useful thread and a good laugh. BTW I volunteer to be Acting Treasurer of the TAIHTD fund.

I will act as President and Treasurer. As with all fund, 99 percent of proceeds will goto salary. The remaining 1 percent will go into an escow to build up the $1,000,000 reserves required for which interest will go to the fund management!

The fund managment is required to drive an M3, therefore half of all direct (1%) proceeds will go into a seperate descretionairy "M3 Fund" for the management.

Originally posted by GhostRider
A useful thread and a good laugh. BTW I volunteer to be Acting Treasurer of the TAIHTD fund.

And the oscar for best comedic performance in an informative role goes to......................................KevinJ_2k1_325ci. ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!

Originally posted by KevinJ_2k1_325ci
Read previous posts please!

Ok here's the extended procedure for those that seem to have trouble with easy to follow procedure.

To perform this procedure you must have posession of the car keys made for your specific car...

I followed your instructions EXACTLY but it didn't work. Could it be that my specific car is a YUGO? hahahahaha The title and keys to my Yugo are in the mail!!

No I was not implying at WOT (wide open throttle for the newbies) from 0-60 would improve. To say that factually we would need to know what the functions are within the ECU. What we do know is that throttle, spark advance, timing, Vanos, transmission, and DSC comes into play and to what extent under what conditions or engine load or speed or even under WOT (kick-down) we don't know. There are threshold conditions within the profiles, so are you talking WOT at 0MPH,10MPH, 60MPH, 100MPH? Throttle in all cases would respond slower to your inputs to put you into WOT with adaptation versus qucker resonds with no adaptation. I've complained many times on this board about my steptronic delay in regular/econo mode of up to 1 second when requesting WOT. With adaptation reset, it is almost instant.

Personally, I don't see the same performance pressing the peddle all the way to the floor before adaptation reset and after. In fact my car responds quicker to my inputs. Now what does that translate to? .1 seconds .2? According to Dinan, with their tranny module they get .1 second in 0-60 and .2 0-100 because I think they are not completely turning adaptation off.

Originally posted by Atlas
Just wondering... do mean to imply that say 0-60 times would improve?

I just think of it as continuously variable throttle response. I myself would prefer it to be not so sharp because i find that the majority of the power is delivered through the first say 1/4 of throttle travel, and the rest of the travel gives hardly anything.

But regardless of how ur computer has adapted the throttle - when you floor it, all the fingers will come off the straw so to speak, and your mouth will be sucking as hard as it can

See learning to count to 10 procedure. Also there will be indicator that it has been reset or not. I would suggest you try again and make sure your in the correct ignition position and remember to start the car afterward or it won't work. Also to correct you, these AREN'T my procedures, these are BMW'S!. So call BMWNA and tell them their technical procedures are wrong for you because they work for me and other people on this board.

You can also have your dealer reset the throttle and tranny adaptation in their software.

Originally posted by Awesome-E46


I followed your instructions EXACTLY but it didn't work. Could it be that my specific car is a YUGO? hahahahaha The title and keys to my Yugo are in the mail!!

Worked for me and I have Dinan Stage III engine software.

Although I haven't validated this, It is possible that the reset may not work if you previously started your car and then turned it off and on within 3 minutes to do the reset. Apparently the ECU is doing testing for about 3 minutes on components and such after the car is off.

If the above was confusing, basically if you feel the reset didn't work for you, you may want to do the reset only after the car has been off longer than 3 minutes if you previously had it on then perform reset procedures.

On my car when I press the throttle in fully there seems to be a switch, I would assume this switch will tell the ECU I want it all and now, so the adaption would not make any difference for me in WOT positions.

regards,
Tarkan

I believe this switch ur referring to is the kick-down feature

Originally posted by KevinJ_2k1_325ci
THis should work on all cars with electronic throttle control meaning some later 323 and 328's as well as all 325 and 330's.

I believe 323/328's that were built 10/00-12/00 will have electronic throttle control or what is called "throttle by wire". It is with this new electronic throttle that these 323/328's got the new mototronics that this will work with.

For the old models meaning prior to 10/00, I've been told that you can try turning your ingnition to the on position (not started) and press the gas peddle all the way to the floor 4 times, then you will hear a beep or something and that tells you it worked.

I have 2000 but my built date is before what you have indicated. So will the peddle work for me if there is no beep? Also is it true that disconnecting the battery will work also? How long do you have it disconnected for..thanks.

I ran into this site with reset info for the older cars (328's and 323's)

SOLUTION:
(If any of the faults listed are set) · Using a breakout box check for an open or short to ground in the wiring from the DME to the MDK.· If the wiring is intact then replace the MDK, then the adaptation values in the DME must be
cleared. Failure to do this will result in reoccurring faults.· Switch the ignition off for 30 seconds.· Turn on the ignition and delete the DME adaptations and the fault code
memory · Press the accelerator pedal to wide open throttle(WOT)4 times

That's how they state to reset the adaption.

You can find the URL below with DME info and the reset procedures. I just happened along this since my 330 had to have the throttle replaced and adaption reset by the dealer.

The car pulls a lot different. Much like turbo lag on a forced induction car.

I guess my old throttle body was really hosed.

http://www.bba-reman.com/bmwfaults.htm

if i have the dinan engine software when i do this it will not reset my ecu to stock and disable the dinan correct?