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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-09-2008, 10:17 PM   #1
awesomebimmer
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2001 330i fuel pump replacement

can someone tell me how hard it is to replace the fuel pump of 2001 bmw 330i.
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Old 03-09-2008, 10:27 PM   #2
silver330ciman
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Originally Posted by awesomebimmer View Post
can someone tell me how hard it is to replace the fuel pump of 2001 bmw 330i.
Pretty straight forward. It's not that it's difficult, but it's a bit scary dealing with fuel I guess. Empty the fuel tank...As far as DIY...
1. Pop the bottom part of the rear seat out.
2. Get a chiesel or a flat screwdriver(wide blade helps)
3. Use a sharpie to mark the position of the pump collar in relation to the pump
4. Un-latch the pump power plug and the hose
5. Use a hammer to tap the pump collar counter-clockwise to loosen
-you might have to work it to get it loose
6. Get the new pump and a bolt ready to plug the fuel hose
7. Old one out, new one in. Attach the collar and hand tighten. Get a new hose clamp and attach the hose and the power harness
GL, and yeah, I'm not responsible for any damages to your health or to your vehicle.
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Old 05-25-2008, 09:38 AM   #3
aberry
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What's the real trick to get the collar off of the fuel pump? I've banged and banged to no avail. Mine did have some sticky goo on it that looked like some kind of sealant, but I thought I removed all of it off. Anyone have any ideas? I'm using a large flat head and a hammer and hitting it counter clock wise. Boy I made the neighbor mad with my banging!
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:05 PM   #4
EvilGenius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver330ciman View Post
Pretty straight forward. It's not that it's difficult, but it's a bit scary dealing with fuel I guess. Empty the fuel tank...As far as DIY...
1. Pop the bottom part of the rear seat out.
2. Get a chiesel or a flat screwdriver(wide blade helps)
3. Use a sharpie to mark the position of the pump collar in relation to the pump
4. Un-latch the pump power plug and the hose
5. Use a hammer to tap the pump collar counter-clockwise to loosen
-you might have to work it to get it loose
6. Get the new pump and a bolt ready to plug the fuel hose
7. Old one out, new one in. Attach the collar and hand tighten. Get a new hose clamp and attach the hose and the power harness
GL, and yeah, I'm not responsible for any damages to your health or to your vehicle.
It might be just me or it could go without saying, but I'd also recommend disconnect neg terminal on battery before beginning work on anything in the fuel delivery system.
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:19 PM   #5
silver330ciman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aberry View Post
What's the real trick to get the collar off of the fuel pump? I've banged and banged to no avail. Mine did have some sticky goo on it that looked like some kind of sealant, but I thought I removed all of it off. Anyone have any ideas? I'm using a large flat head and a hammer and hitting it counter clock wise. Boy I made the neighbor mad with my banging!
Haha, I felt the same way. What I tried was also tapping it clockwise for a second, and retapping counter-clockwise. I almost gave up, too. It worked for me though... GL man.
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:18 PM   #6
aberry
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What I learned while changing my fuel pump!

First, thank you silver330ciman for your write up and your note of encouragement. I did finally accomplish the task and that fixed my issue. My ride is back in business. Here's what I learned though for newbies, because that's what I was with this one.

1. Make sure it really is the fuel pump: Pull out the back seat and remove the top cover just under the sound deafening material. Use 10mm socket. Then turn the car to ignition position #2. When you turn the key you will hear the pump do it's thing. It's very obvious.

2. The fuel pump is the one on the passenger side. ON the same side as where you put the gas into the tank. The top of the NEW fuel pump will match the one still in the car. I know LOL, but I learned how to pull the pump by pulling the wrong side first.

3. You will need a new hose clamp by the time you are done. I tried to just buy one at the local auto parts store, but they don't take debit cards for something under $1. Therefore, I bought 5 of them and thank goodness, because I ended up needing 2. I had to tear the old hose clamps off they were not reusable.

4. When you pull the hose off of the old pump there is some fuel that will spill, but where you really get the fuel spill is when you start banging on the collar and it starts shooting out the top of the pump where you removed the hose. Thank goodness I didn't bang hard or I would have shot my backseat. OH, I had a half a tank of gas during all of this.

5. Don't try and shortcut the instructions above like I did. There is a reason you pull the hose from the pump first. You will bang on the collar till the cows come home and probably never get it off. It seems to create a vacuum when the hose is still attached. I thought I would do all the banging on the collar without the hose removed thinking I would spill less gas that way. But, when it wouldn't move it finally occurred to me that the instructions might be in that order for a reason!

6. When hitting the collar to remove it, just be firm on it and it will budge, then it's just hitting it over and over to release it completely. It will come off, just doesn't feel like it.

7. Fit the new plastic o-ring that seals the pump into the hole before you put the pump in, it looks like it ought to be put on the pump itself then inserted into the hole, but it works a ton better by putting it into the hole and fitting it to the rim of the hole. Pump goes right in that way and sits down like it's supposed to.

All in all this is a 30 minute job if you have done it before. If you are intimidated like I was about the open tank of gasoline then this could take a couple of hours like it did me. I would consider this easier then doing brakes and rotors if you know all of the pitfalls. Good Luck.
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:23 PM   #7
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Do a search on my330i.com. I think they might have some photos too.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:21 PM   #8
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When I did mine, yeah, i un-did negative terminal from battery. And I used a cement chisel and a mini sludge to tap the thing loose. ALSO, its on the PASSENGER SIDE of the car. the one on the drivers side is a fuel level sender, yes the tanks have TWO senders in them.

Also, yes, try and drain the gas... I did it with a full tank of gas... but took lots of anti static precautions... i dont reccomend doing it with a full tank though.
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by dirtbiker245 View Post
When I did mine, yeah, i un-did negative terminal from battery. And I used a cement chisel and a mini sludge to tap the thing loose. ALSO, its on the PASSENGER SIDE of the car. the one on the drivers side is a fuel level sender, yes the tanks have TWO senders in them.

Also, yes, try and drain the gas... I did it with a full tank of gas... but took lots of anti static precautions... i dont reccomend doing it with a full tank though.
The only advantage to draining the tank is maybe having a little less mess. Since if things are going to ignite, it's going to be the fumes in the tank not the actual fuel.

Take the same precautions no matter what level the tank is at. And always have a properly rated fire extinguisher handy whenever working on the fuel system.

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Old 05-27-2008, 10:24 PM   #10
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pictures?
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:07 PM   #11
silver330ciman
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pictures?
I was going to take a picture until someone told me that camera flashes could be a good ignition source for the fuel fumes. pelicanparts techical section has e36 pics, but they are almost identical to the e46 stuff.
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:47 PM   #12
Lbert
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It is imperative you have the battery disconnected prior to doing the job and do not do the job in an enclosed space (i.e. garage).

Before removing the hose lock ring, make sure you are able to remove the ring first. Afer all, you do not want fuel fumes when you are banging the metal to metal.

The best way to remove the locking ring is to get a someone to help you out. Both of you using a hammer and a punch, each hammering counter-clockwise the raised tabs. Vocalize your action and say "tap, tap, punch". Punch is when both of you hit the ring the same time. It will equalize the turning torque. You can squirt your favorite lubricant around on the inner ring and plastic cap. It is sealed so you do not have the risk contaminating the fuel tank. You can wipe off the lubricant once the ring is off.

You can also remove the fuel cap to release the vacuum and replace it back after releasing the vacuum. This will help lifting the pump out of the tank.
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:32 PM   #13
schnejerator
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I'm due for this as well, and fairly certain it's the pump - finally got towed last night. Thanks in advance for the help!

p.s. What'd you guys pay for the pump? $150ish at pelican parts... Also, did you need to replace the sealing ring?
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:42 PM   #14
emg2919
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i'm about to do mine as soon as the pump shows up from pelican parts.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:28 AM   #15
hermanusm
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Great DYI I did mine in less than 30 minutes keep on providing these tremendous DIY
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:47 AM   #16
ekim
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my indy dealer wanted $760 for fuelpump and fuel filter replacement.
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Old 04-10-2011, 01:23 AM   #17
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my indy dealer wanted $760 for fuelpump and fuel filter replacement.

that sounds ridiculously high ...
please tell me this is not the average price to have this work done
because my fuel pump just gave out on my '01 325i
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:15 AM   #18
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mine just went on the fritz today. instead of towing it, my mechanic told me if i slapped the gas tank it might work temporarily and it started right up (the commutator's probably pretty worn out, or at least has a dead spot). i got a quote from two local independent BMW specialists in thousand oaks, ca. one was $970 and the other $680. fortunately my regular mechanic (also BMW only) quoted me $482, unfortunately, i now live 75 miles away from him, but i'm taking it to him tomorrow anyway, since that's a huge price difference.
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #19
wilfaze
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Cranks but won"t start

Help, FANS.

My 330i '05 BMW cranks but won't start. Started this after a rear end accident. And the first time it took 3hrs. b4 it would start, now it won't start at all. It's been 4 days now and I miss my baby. I've read that the problem could be the spark plugs, they're about 3 mths old, or the fuel pump,or fuel filter and/or the O2 sensors. HELP!!!!
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:53 AM   #20
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WD40 is great for removing the collar. I banged away for half an hour. Nothing. Soaked it for 15 mins. Voila!
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