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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-01-2013, 11:36 AM   #81
glhx
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The process starts with software. Get bmw scanner 1.4.0 for around $60. Easy to use....necessary. Then on ebay get inpa.....ill send you the link. http://www.amazon.com/Scanner-V1-4-0.../dp/B00C5X0136 $67

Get a used module. May need to be recoded.....that's what inpa does. Sort of. With inpa will be a package deal that has ncs expert and gt1. A crazy price on this. $44 get a dedicated laptop....a net book is best for the room. Any laptop will work
https://touch.ebay.com/tablet/item?i...ment=WatchList

Module should be $90

I'm thinking like $250 to fix it. I bet the module is bad. The seat pressure sensor can be bypassed and should be and that's really what this thread is about......bypassing the pressure sensor that costs $350 for $1.50. You need this software anyway. It's not much of a choice. You have to have at least scanner. 1.4.0

Last edited by glhx; 08-01-2013 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:11 PM   #82
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thanks for your thoughts. I'd gladly pay $250 if it made the light go away and the SRS system to function.

But I think the likelihood of getting so lucky is slim. The car is 14 years old now and is regularly showing it's age and mileage. I've just sunk some more money into the suspension, alignment, couple motor mounts, and a tranny mount. Presumably, the drivetrain and chassis should be good for another 100k. But I'd say the chances of the GM tranny making it to 300,000 miles are pretty slim. The current engine is an LKQ engine; I think it will go another 100k with good maintenance.

The list of stuff that could go wrong is high and likely, such as a couple more window regulators, couple more check engine lights, couple more door handles, clear coat separation....

Never fall in love with these things.

John
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:26 AM   #83
glhx
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Clear coat separation......this is my car right now. Someone decided to paint it and forgot to let the primer dry before laying the paint down. I had to strip the whole thing down and start over. It will be nice when I'm done. I've almost got that laundry list of stuff done but I'm thinking of selling. You can only take so much and spend so much before you surpass the value

You are right about the list of stuff that goes wrong.....seems like everything went wrong on mine between 100 and 140k. Honestly.......you should sell it before that.
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Last edited by glhx; 08-02-2013 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:28 PM   #84
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too late...has 182k...I bought it from the last "smart" guy who gave up after sinking thousands into suspension, engine, brakes, wheel bearings, electric radiator conversion, window regulator, etc...

I figured I'd take a chance on most of the problems being behind it, since it was for my 18 year old and it is a hefty, well made car that would protect him in a crash (assuming air bags are working, LOL).

John
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:02 PM   #85
glhx
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It would be a tough call to sell it. I would get quite a bit given what I will do with the paint job. I like the car but I do get tired of working on it sometimes. A low miles car might be better. I might keep it and buy a new one anyway
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:37 PM   #86
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where do you order the wiring harness from??
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:54 AM   #87
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Look on www.realoem.com to get the number.


Then go to dealer or ecs tuning to buy the part. The repair harness.....ecs tuning.

I posted somewhere all about this repair harness. It has the part number and info on the post. Must have been at least a year and a half ago
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:20 PM   #88
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After so long...

Thanks a ton for the post. After about 18 months, my light finally went off. I moved to NC in the military and they require a safety inspection - mine is due this month! I am so happy that I didn't need to do anything more drastic. Thanks again...totally worth the Peake Tool and cheap wire!
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:27 AM   #89
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...56&hg=72&fg=05

not seeing the wire harness... maybe im looking at the wrong one?
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:43 PM   #90
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For those that are still trying to make heads and tails of the replacement wiring harnesses available, there are 2 different ones:

The most common one discussed is the simple plug-n-play cable that connects directly into the tensioner body and is zip-tied to the seat frame, Wiring Set Seat PN 52108255704, typically $15 online.

The second, obscure one requires it to be spliced into the existing wiring by cutting off approximately 250 and 300mm of the wire coming out of the carpet on the floor, Repair Cable, Airbag PN 61129118095, typically $50 online.

These are the two wiring harnesses that is referenced in the BMW Service Information bulletin, S.I. 72 03 00 DTD July 2001, as well as in Repair Instructions B61 2000 (reposted here from lazyacevw post #38).

I'm finally getting around to tackling this problem and initiating my troubleshooting procedures. BMW Scanner 1.4 reports an error of "resistance too high" for my driver's tensioner. The existing seat cable measures approximately 0.3-0.5 ohms on my Fluke multimeter in a closed circuit by itself (probes alone crossed reads 0.2-0.3 ohms), this would indicate that the cable isn't faulty (jaya indicated in post #43 that the complete cable+tensioner circuit resistance should be approximately 1.8 ohms). I found another used seat cable and it, too, reads the same resistance (though, there is a very slight chance that both could be faulty because I'm not using proper techniques in my resistance measurement). From my understanding, the reason why these wiring harnesses are being replaced is that the original wires are too small a gauge and prone to corrosion, which can lead to higher resistance.

Since my seat cable does not appear to be suffering from corrosion nor damage as indicated by its "normal" very low resistance, that leaves me with either the portion of the cable coming out from the carpet, and/or the tensioner itself gone bad. Since my car was built in November 2002, long after the SI was issued to rectify faulty wiring, and that both cables I tested are of the newer designed 52108255704, I'm inclined to believe the circuit within the belt tensioner is bad. I will first try the "used" market off eBay in hopes of finding a good working one, knowing that my purchase is protected and should be reimbursed, either through eBay or the seller, if I'm sent a malfunctioning unit.
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Last edited by Augster; 09-05-2013 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:57 PM   #91
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Follow-up:

Got my replacement seat belt tensioner from eBay and success! Code be gone after clearing. It was actually my second tensioner as the first one sent to me also had an open circuit (too high resistance), but the seller quickly sent me out another one (apparently he's a BMW recycler and has several on-hand) and told me to discard the first one.

So for $60 total outlay, problem solved! Until it eventually fails again some other day (hopefully long after I've sold the car).
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:38 AM   #92
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Ugh I bet my brand new tensioner is faulty too and I'm sure it's been too long to return it.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:14 PM   #93
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Each car is different so you need to troubleshoot your specific car. However, if you do have a good scan tool that truly reads all BMW codes and can clear them, I would suggest trying your passenger side tensioner connected to the drivers side cable coming from the carpet (no need to physically attach the tensioner to the seat) then attempt to clear codes, assuming your passenger side tensioner is good. If the drivers side error clears (ignore any errors on passenger side) then that should verify your drivers side tensioner is bad.

This was going to be my next step if I had gotten another fault on the second replacement tensioner for verification as the electrical connectors are exactly the same for drivers and passengers side (and so is the seat cable, FYI).
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:30 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster View Post
I would suggest trying your passenger side tensioner connected to the drivers side cable coming from the carpet (no need to physically attach the tensioner to the seat) then attempt to clear codes, assuming your passenger side tensioner is good. If the drivers side error clears (ignore any errors on passenger side) then that should verify your drivers side tensioner is bad.

This was going to be my next step if I had gotten another fault on the second replacement tensioner for verification as the electrical connectors are exactly the same for drivers and passengers side (and so is the seat cable, FYI).
That's a good idea. I wonder if it'll reach.
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:32 PM   #95
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Took me forever to work this mess out.

Last edited by glhx; 09-17-2013 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:36 PM   #96
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That's a good idea. I wonder if it'll reach.
It won't reach, so you will have to unbolt at least the passenger seat to remove its tensioner, then just work under the driver's seat by unplugging the carpet cable going up into the yellow connector attached to the bottom of the driver's seat, and reattach to the loose passenger tensioner.

When I got my second tensioner, I basically did this test first before removing anything, and luckily confirmed that the replacement tensioner worked just fine.
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:03 PM   #97
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I finally got around to turning this stupid light off. I tried the easiest / cheapest solutions first --

1. Clearing the code with PASoft .. no dice, wouldn't clear
2. Large amount of CRC Contact Cleaner all over the yellow plug, my hands, and rubber floor mats. Success! Code and light are both gone. We'll see if I end up having to replace the harness down the line.

Try contact cleaner first, takes 10 minutes, most of which is spent figuring out the stupid plug under the seat
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:12 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by repoman89 View Post
I finally got around to turning this stupid light off. I tried the easiest / cheapest solutions first --

1. Clearing the code with PASoft .. no dice, wouldn't clear
2. Large amount of CRC Contact Cleaner all over the yellow plug, my hands, and rubber floor mats. Success! Code and light are both gone. We'll see if I end up having to replace the harness down the line.

Try contact cleaner first, takes 10 minutes, most of which is spent figuring out the stupid plug under the seat
Guess I need to try that. I replaced the harness way back when but that didn't turn my airbag light off. I'll lather the thing up with contact cleaner and if it still doesn't work I guess I'll be buying the tensioner.

Anyone know the cheapest place to buy the tensioner right now, just in case I do have to?
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:17 AM   #99
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I didn't do a lot of shopping (checked ECS and Pelican) and ECS had it for $102 + shipping. They only had the OEM BMW version.

I did look on ebay for used ones, but the left one was very rare and $70 or so.

John

Last edited by jwedd; 01-15-2014 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:39 PM   #100
glhx
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It's usually the harness. The wire was made too small. There is a bypass harness for $50. I replaced the harness with factory $15 and it will last another 100k miles.

The problem is also where it plugs into the seat belt tensioner
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