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Old 05-02-2008, 10:11 AM   #1
Leon_s
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Leather treatment other than leatherique

Hi guys

I'm looking for leather treatment solution for my 318i. The leather is a little stiff at the moment and I just don't want it to crack. I've heard that leatherique is the best solution, but unfortunately, I don't think I can find it here (I live in Indonesia).

Can anyone give suggestion on what I can use besides Leatherique?
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:14 AM   #2
NightRunner
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Im not sure what might be available in Indonesia but there is something here in america called "Leather Therapy" and is sold at Tractor Supply Co. stores. It's intended use it for horse related leather equipment. Its another two step process with a conditioner and cleaner. I used it on my leatherette and it definitely seemed to make it a little softer. Im certain if it was real leather the results would have been even more dramatic.

Although the first time i did it the outside temperatures were around 5* C. I think having it in a nice hot car would have helped it work even better.'

Here's their website: http://www.leathertherapy.com/
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Last edited by NightRunner; 05-02-2008 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:32 AM   #3
Greg@DetailedImage.com
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We carry the Leatherique line of products and we ship them around the world, including Indonesia. If you would like to try other products we carry the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff and the Lexol cleaner and conditioner as well. If you have any other questions or concerns please let me know.

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Old 05-02-2008, 10:38 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Gregs View Post
We carry the Leatherique line of products and we ship them around the world, including Indonesia. If you would like to try other products we carry the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff and the Lexol cleaner and conditioner as well. If you have any other questions or concerns please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image

of those three what would you recommend?

my side bolsters have wear on them (black nappa leather)
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Old 05-02-2008, 11:17 AM   #5
Greg@DetailedImage.com
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of those three what would you recommend?

my side bolsters have wear on them (black nappa leather)
Leatherique definitely the deepest cleaning and conditioning formula I've used of those three, or any three for that matter. It's my "go to" product to restore any leather or vinyl surface. Let me know if I can help you any further.

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Old 05-02-2008, 02:40 PM   #6
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Some good info on Leather Care:
http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...2F_Maintenance

There are different types of leather (coated, uncoated, etc) that require specific cleaners and treatments. There is no one-size-fits-all solution.
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:19 PM   #7
Eddy Fiuza
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LeatherTherapy is what I use

I would like to bring some of my personal experience to you all. I live in the US and have worked on many cars. Some BMW owners from my town in South Florida have trusted me with there cars paints, leathers etc. I have obtain a tremendous amount of experience in the pass 14 years. I would like to share with you all some great information. As a professional detailer for many years, I have seen to many nice leather interiors crack, get stiff like card boards. Now you will know what I have been using for years.

First lets define different types of leather. First up Aniline Leather. Aniline is colored all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only the best quality hides can be used.

99% of the exotic or high end cars I work with have top rated quality leather, such as Italian leather.

Now you also have the lesser quality leather on the non exotics. Which they fit into this category Finish leather which is any enhancing effect applied to leather after it has been tanned. Examples are dyeing, embossing, buffing, antiquing, waxing, waterproofing, and so on. I have work with cars with less then 10 years old and the leather is torn and had to be replace. Most cars such as BMW, Benz, Range Rovers, American cars etc. They all have an acrylic coating on top of the dyes. Which need careful cleaning. I use leathertherapy wash. Now the problem is penetrating the coating down to the hide. Also they sell an acrylic coating that can be applied by hand that can offer topical extra protection. The product is leather finish. Works great if your cars acrylic coating has been removed while using wrong products.

Now on the other hand when dealing with aniline leather that have aniline dyes, which in these types of leathers don't have a thick top coating to protect the dye from the elements such as body oils , etc. Almost like painting a car with base coat and then clear coat. If you only have a base coat you will remove paint.

But if you have good coats of clear coats then you're only cleaning the clear or polishing it or waxing it with out removing base paint. Finish leather dyes and Aniline dyes have some cross linking that helps the dye from being rubbed off during cleaning, but yet can be remove with time with the wrong products while cleaning or just neglecting and just not doing nothing to preserve the leather. Dry leather is not good. To much moisture is not good also.

I have been using a products http://www.leathertherapy.com/ that works awesome for most types of leathers. I used first their Equestrian Wash and then the Equestrian Restorer & Conditioner for non coated leathers such as Aniline,or Connolly Leathers The Motor Sports Finish is a top coating that will help keep the elements off. This finish will dry matt not shiny. This company is the real deal for leather. I have tried other products from several companies, but did not like the outcome. Check this link of the Daytona seats that I saved and detailed with leathertherapy products. http://s932.photobucket.com/albums/a...he%20interior/ you must enter the guess password which is dayToNASEATS. The reason Im showing these Ferrari seats is so you can see the power and awareness of an outstanding product. It's not every day I come across a car fire that the leather seats can be saved. If these products that I used and trusted on such a huge challenge such as a fire, You can imagine what it will do to your cars leather that has not gone through a fire. Enjoy.

3 more pluses in this formula:
1) Inhibits mold and mildew (only product approved by the EPA) to do this -- while conditioning leather
2) Incorporates a UV block directly into the formula.
3 Was tested by the Leather Industries of America at the request of Herman Oak Tannery (one of the oldest in this country) and "increased the strength -- and durability -- of leather by 36%.






You can request to speak with Pino or Anna at http://www.leathertherapy.com/

Last edited by Eddy Fiuza; 07-11-2012 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:44 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
Some good info on Leather Care:
http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?...2F_Maintenance

There are different types of leather (coated, uncoated, etc) that require specific cleaners and treatments. There is no one-size-fits-all solution.
3-Step Leather Care

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by ~ 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane.

Premium leatherhas a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic. Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.


1. Clean -
there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear


2. Hydrated -
when leather tanner's talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.


3. Protected -
is essential as it will protect the surface finish as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off


Urethane doesn't require conditioning; always keep in mind that you're dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself


Google "Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care" same author

Last edited by TOGWT; 07-10-2012 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:09 AM   #9
Eddy Fiuza
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LeatherTherapy Finish

You are correct. Urethane doesn't require conditioning. That is why I point out that they sell a product which will put a topical finish that will prevent further damage to the leather that has had the urethane rubbed off with wrong chemicals or daily wear. The product is called leather finish. It does not penetrate the leather. I have even used my Sata spray gun to reseal an area that needed protection. The Leather Therapy wash works fantastic to clean and up keep. I also recommend using compress air to remove fine sand that gets trap along edges and stitching. Great that you pointed that out!
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