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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-04-2011, 01:53 PM   #221
\\V
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wickedly View Post
Pics of the installation dont show anymore..someone update to new pics...this thread was made on 2008. Thanks
Check post #15 on the first page.

Here's a direct link --> http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...1&postcount=15
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:02 PM   #222
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just wanted to chime in, I did headers on my 330 last weekend (as well as rotors, pads, SS lines, was a lot of work in one weekend).

The DIY is pretty much bang on. About half of my studs backed out, it wasn't bad though, you can reach all but 2 or 3 of the nuts from the top with just a 3in extension. You WILL have to remove the motor mount and jack the engine up to get the front manifold out, we tried to avoid this and after 2 hours of banging/prying the hell out of everything we decided we had to do it.

The rear manifold comes out first, you can wiggle it it out before you jack the engine up. The rear header has to go in first. Loosen exhaust hangers and scoot the exhaust back a little.

I completely removed the SAP, with a block off plate from ECS. So glad its gone I hated that noise. I also removed my rear O2 sensors completely, since they are pointless.

You don't have to remove the engine covers unless you plan on unplugging the rear O2 sensors.



This was really really hard, but not complex or anything. Just exhausting (lol).
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:49 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignickmetro View Post
just wanted to chime in, I did headers on my 330 last weekend (as well as rotors, pads, SS lines, was a lot of work in one weekend).

The DIY is pretty much bang on. About half of my studs backed out, it wasn't bad though, you can reach all but 2 or 3 of the nuts from the top with just a 3in extension. You WILL have to remove the motor mount and jack the engine up to get the front manifold out, we tried to avoid this and after 2 hours of banging/prying the hell out of everything we decided we had to do it.

The rear manifold comes out first, you can wiggle it it out before you jack the engine up. The rear header has to go in first. Loosen exhaust hangers and scoot the exhaust back a little.

I completely removed the SAP, with a block off plate from ECS. So glad its gone I hated that noise. I also removed my rear O2 sensors completely, since they are pointless.

You don't have to remove the engine covers unless you plan on unplugging the rear O2 sensors.



This was really really hard, but not complex or anything. Just exhausting (lol).
How much was the sap block off plate and I didn't no you could just remove the rear o2s. How do remove them?

Thanks


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Old 08-04-2011, 05:21 PM   #224
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Originally Posted by bwallace530 View Post
How much was the sap block off plate and I didn't no you could just remove the rear o2s. How do remove them?

Thanks


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the block off plate was 6 bucks from ECS for me. PN 11 12 1 438 086.

and the 02 sensors can be disconnected underneath the engine cover directly in the middle of the engine. There are two detachable harnesses just sitting there.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:05 PM   #225
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Originally Posted by drumbum624 View Post
the block off plate was 6 bucks from ECS for me. PN 11 12 1 438 086.

and the 02 sensors can be disconnected underneath the engine cover directly in the middle of the engine. There are two detachable harnesses just sitting there.
Thanks cheaper then the oem part

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Old 09-05-2011, 05:48 PM   #226
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hello guys. first post here.
i have a 2003 525i E39 with the 2.5L m54 engine. ive searched all over google and the rest of the interweb and this is by far the best and most informative write up for DIY headers. infact if i search e39 headers diy, this page comes up everytime.

heres my million dollar questions;
1. will my procedure for the 525i be the same as the 3 series cars? im guessing so, just that my 525 is a tad bigger of a car
2. will the answer to number 1 result in having more room to move around and work?
3. is there anything that is 5 series specific that i should know of?

thanks and have a great day.

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Old 09-06-2011, 12:17 PM   #227
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installed bimmerbrakes headers yesterday. perfect fit! o2 sensors have plenty of room and flanges matched up with the back of the exhaust with no problem. If you're doing headers, spend the extra and go with guarenteed fitment (bimmerbrakes, stett, etc.), don't gamble with ebay.

i did the install without removing the motor mount too! i was pretty nervous about removing it so i wanted to avoid that if i could. the hardest part was taking out the stock ones.. after that everything went really fast. headers went in 100 times easier than stock ones came out. i installed the precat o2 sensors in the postcat holes. i hope that turns out to be ok. it just worked better that way. Total install time was about 10 hours

my thoughts/notes on install.
-let ceramic coating sit for a week or so before trying to install. if you install soon after painting them it will all scratch off. Let it cook per instructions on the can as well.
-subframe brace torque - 43 ft lb
-header nut torque - 25 ft lb (if you can get a torque wrench in there, if not just guess)
-get one of these.. worth its weight in gold: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-89-962.../dp/B000HEKV1W
-drop the entire rear exhaust before completely removing stock manifolds
-unbolt both stock manifolds but remove the rear first, it comes out easier and will let you wiggle the front one out.
-install front header first, then rear. dont completely bolt either down until both are in to give yourself wiggle room.
-do not do this by yourself. it will be completely impossible (if youve done this by yourself, respect. theres no way i could have). i had 2 knowledgeable guys helping me.
-ill add more if i think of any


pictures and video soon


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Old 09-06-2011, 01:14 PM   #228
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What do you guys suggest for seized up spark plugs??
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:06 PM   #229
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What do you guys suggest for seized up spark plugs??
Why are you messing with the spark plugs when installing headers?
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:00 AM   #230
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going to try to do this install in a few months. Im hearing a lot of fitment issues kinda scaring me cause i really dnt want to take it to a muffler shop and dnt want my sensors off. I know a few headers on ebay are like $80 but i hear trader-nas is a very trustworthy seller and his fit good. He sell them for bout $200, has anyone purchased from him and run into fitment issues? Also i know some of you dropped your exhaust, does it really help fitting it on?
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:55 PM   #231
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Ok I need some help! I spent ~3hrs removing all the bolts from the header to block connection, no problem, then I went to remove the mid pipe and header nuts and they are rusted solid! What should I do?

My only options are to cut the stock header pipes or cut the bolts. I am thinking of cutting the pipes and then taking the mid pipe and grinding the bolts off....

Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:27 PM   #232
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PB blaster and let it sit. Or cut them off and do what you need to do to get them off. Mine where kinda rusted but not bad I used PB blaster and they came off not easy but they came off. You also need to have some type of breaker bar maybe a think pipe that can fit over the wrench and just pull pull and pull till it comes off thats what I did.
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:38 PM   #233
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I sprayed them and am letting them sit over night. If the breaker bar doesn't work I will cut.

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Old 09-17-2011, 11:41 PM   #234
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I sprayed them and am letting them sit over night. If the breaker bar doesn't work I will cut.

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Good let us know if it works you can add another story to help out others that try

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Old 09-18-2011, 09:04 PM   #235
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Originally Posted by bwallace530 View Post
Good let us know if it works you can add another story to help out others that try

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Ok progress was made today. Here is what I have done so far:

1.) removed air cleaner
2.) Removed washer fluid res.
3.) Removed rear exhaust section
- Side note, I let the 4 bolts sit over night with pb blast and I managed to get all but one which stripped. Unfortunetly I had to use my angle grinder and grind it off.
4.) Removed all bolts to the front most manifold.
5.) At this point I needed to remove the engine mount to all me to get the front most manifold out. This was a HUGE help because this allowed me to remove the manifold no problem, but also to jack up the motor and "easily" get access to all the bolts for the second manifold.

Right now everything is out and I just need to get another gasket( I thought I ordered 2, FAIL). This DIY was spot on! I just hope everything lines up when I put it back together. I bought Bimmerbrakes headers which are 100% fitment...we shall see.

Does anyone have a part number for the studs? I would like to replace all the ones that came out with new studs.....
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:18 PM   #236
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Originally Posted by redlin'r View Post
Ok progress was made today. Here is what I have done so far:

1.) removed air cleaner
2.) Removed washer fluid res.
3.) Removed rear exhaust section
- Side note, I let the 4 bolts sit over night with pb blast and I managed to get all but one which stripped. Unfortunetly I had to use my angle grinder and grind it off.
4.) Removed all bolts to the front most manifold.
5.) At this point I needed to remove the engine mount to all me to get the front most manifold out. This was a HUGE help because this allowed me to remove the manifold no problem, but also to jack up the motor and "easily" get access to all the bolts for the second manifold.

Right now everything is out and I just need to get another gasket( I thought I ordered 2, FAIL). This DIY was spot on! I just hope everything lines up when I put it back together. I bought Bimmerbrakes headers which are 100% fitment...we shall see.

Does anyone have a part number for the studs? I would like to replace all the ones that came out with new studs.....
Replace all the studs. There's no point in just replacing a few you should replace all of them. I think somewhere in this thread there is part numbers for the studs. Do a search in this thread I am pretty sure its in this huge thread LOL. If not just go to the dealer and ask them.

Good luck

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Old 09-19-2011, 08:11 PM   #237
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Tonight I finalized my order for parts and did a test fit to make sure everything will squeeze in. Here are my list of parts for anyone who needs references:

1.) Block studs- ES#18454 ~$0.72/ea
2.) GASKET W/HEAT SHIELD ES#26135: ~$29/ea

Here are pics of the mock up... (bimmerbrakes headers)

1.) the bottom o2 sensors cross but have room! Thank GOD!
2.) headers line up PERFECT to the mid pipe.
3.) A little surprise, I painted the rear exhaust with header paint and there is no muffler, so this will be a no muffler or 2nd resonator set-up. I can't wait to fire it up.....

Its just a waiting game until I get my parts so I thought a mock-up wouldn't hurt. I decided to get new tie-rods since the car was in the air to complete the front overhaul.

Now I just need to figure out how to connect the o2 simulator.
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Last edited by redlin'r; 09-19-2011 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:47 PM   #238
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Question....

How did everyone install the o2 sim? I don't want to re-locate my post cat bungs and didn't get instructions with my sim from bimmer brakes.

Another question, do you need to have 02 harness extensions for pre-cat bungs?
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:06 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlin'r View Post
Question....

How did everyone install the o2 sim? I don't want to re-locate my post cat bungs and didn't get instructions with my sim from bimmer brakes.

Another question, do you need to have 02 harness extensions for pre-cat bungs?
No, extension is needed. Just unclip the harness on the back of the motor (clip onto the Valve Cover).
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:48 PM   #240
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Got them installed! Great fitment and fairly easy to tackle. I still have to do the o2 sim.

I have no muffler or second resonator and boy is it loud. Seems to be running rich as it pops a lot on declaration.

I went for a test drive and I had the car turn off and throw a ses after going to redline then neutral...normal? I am thinking this will go away after o2 sim.

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