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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 05-22-2008, 07:35 PM   #21
EvilGenius
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Originally Posted by ivanfuzz View Post
Hey EvilGenius, I used your advice from another post and found that test to be actually true. I also talked to a service guy at a dealership and he verified that it's the easiest way to check that part. He also said that valve is a common problem with our cars and that it will certainly override the A/C and blow hot air out of the vents.

So now, I've ordered a new water valve and thermostat (pulled the code the other day) and I'm flushing the system this weekend for both repairs. I'll post back with updates when it's complete.
Excellent!!! It's always gratifying to hear that I was able to help out a fellow fanatic! I knew all the book smarts I got of reading about every corner of these great cars would prove helpful to me, but it is double when it helps others.

Hehe it's also pretty cool that the way BMW tests that valve is the same way too. I guess if I ever needed a fall-back job I could go work on 3'ers at a service shop and "hit the ground running" as they say hehe!
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:04 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
Yup yup! That's the most common place for refrigerant leak and it's such a PITA to get to, most A/C shops won't bother to crack it open to flood it with a UV light. Apparently that part (evaporator coil) is pretty weak in our cars.
Yeah so i have heard. I also got this valve replaced that connects to something near the coil because, evidently, they suck too and its good to replace while the dash is apart. Sorry that I dont have more info about what its called.
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:58 PM   #23
EvilGenius
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Originally Posted by kurtnhl View Post
Yeah so i have heard. I also got this valve replaced that connects to something near the coil because, evidently, they suck too and its good to replace while the dash is apart. Sorry that I dont have more info about what its called.
That is the expansion valve, and yes they do fail so may as well replace it while it's in pieces.
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
Excellent!!! It's always gratifying to hear that I was able to help out a fellow fanatic! I knew all the book smarts I got of reading about every corner of these great cars would prove helpful to me, but it is double when it helps others.

Hehe it's also pretty cool that the way BMW tests that valve is the same way too. I guess if I ever needed a fall-back job I could go work on 3'ers at a service shop and "hit the ground running" as they say hehe!
Well, last night I got flushed the radiator, the block, and installed a new water valve and new thermostat. Overall very easy DIYS compared to my Jeep which is always a PITA for some reason. Anyways, so far so good on the A/C and heat issue. The heat is hotter than hell, and the A/C is ice cold. I even had the heat running on high for about 5 minutes then kicked the A/C on and it took about 3 minutes to cool the car down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
Yup yup! That's the most common place for refrigerant leak and it's such a PITA to get to, most A/C shops won't bother to crack it open to flood it with a UV light. Apparently that part (evaporator coil) is pretty weak in our cars.
I've also heard a trick to checking for an evaporator coil leak without tearing the dash apart. A mechanic I know said that if you put dye in the system you can tell by holding a piece of paper under (can't think of the word )where the A/C drains water while it's defrosting. (Puddle under car) If there is dye in the system and you hold a piece of paper under that spot and the liquid that comes out isn't clear, you have a leak in the evaporator coil.

Does that make sense? He was going to try it for me if my A/C problems persisted.
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Old 05-24-2008, 12:53 PM   #25
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Update**

Ive found that if i either turn on the lower foot vent it makes the air colder from the center dash vents but then then its gets really hot down by my foot.
And if I turn on the upper vent it gets hot by the window.

can anyone help?
what's been happening in my car is ---- if outside temp is lower than my climate control set temp, then footwell blows hot air.
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:19 PM   #26
tranceasia8
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Finally got it done and man its ice cold.
thanks guys!
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:44 AM   #27
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Finally got it done and man its ice cold.
thanks guys!
So did you end up just replacing the water valve?
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:04 AM   #28
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So did you end up just replacing the water valve?
yep it was a easy 5 minute job.
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:33 PM   #29
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what's been happening in my car is ---- if outside temp is lower than my climate control set temp, then footwell blows hot air.
I have the same problem. Anyone have a suggestion. I was thinking stepper motor controling the footwell vents, but I don't know. With the AC working OK on the top vents, seems like it would just be a problem with air flow if it was the stepper motor.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranceasia8 View Post
Update**

Ive found that if i either turn on the lower foot vent it makes the air colder from the center dash vents but then then its gets really hot down by my foot.
And if I turn on the upper vent it gets hot by the window.

can anyone help?
I have the same problem, I had already changed out my final stage resister and that solved the random blowing problem but still hot air no AC. I had my freon recharged and still didnt fix it. Im going to buy the HVC and DIY on that and see if that fix it.
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:08 PM   #31
tranceasia8
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I have the same problem, I had already changed out my final stage resister and that solved the random blowing problem but still hot air no AC. I had my freon recharged and still didnt fix it. Im going to buy the HVC and DIY on that and see if that fix it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RN WC View Post
I have the same problem. Anyone have a suggestion. I was thinking stepper motor controling the footwell vents, but I don't know. With the AC working OK on the top vents, seems like it would just be a problem with air flow if it was the stepper motor.
you guys try checking your water valve? ^^
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:41 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranceasia8 View Post
Update**

Ive found that if i either turn on the lower foot vent it makes the air colder from the center dash vents but then then its gets really hot down by my foot.
And if I turn on the upper vent it gets hot by the window.

can anyone help?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tranceasia8 View Post
you guys try checking your water valve? ^^
Im going to order that from Tisher and replace it. I think it will solve my problem. Do I have to do a coolant flush for this?
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:11 AM   #33
tranceasia8
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Im going to order that from Tisher and replace it. I think it will solve my problem. Do I have to do a coolant flush for this?
Nope. I just unplugged it,pinched the line, and replaced it. There are 2 hose clamps holding the hoses.
Quick and easy fix, although a flush wouldnt be a bad idea if you think you really need it.
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Old 07-26-2008, 10:31 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by tranceasia8 View Post
Nope. I just unplugged it,pinched the line, and replaced it. There are 2 hose clamps holding the hoses.
Quick and easy fix, although a flush wouldnt be a bad idea if you think you really need it.
Cool.... I already did a flush when I installed my SC. I ordered the part from Tischer BMW and can't wait to get this fix. Its been way to hot lately
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:43 PM   #35
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Ok I just changed my HCV today and it was a pain since I had to move some parts of my super charger. But for you it is real easy to remove the air intake and then pull up the HCV and loosen the 2 hose clamp and electrical plug. Then replace and do the reverse steps. Some coolant will leak out but just top it off afterward.

Well, all this work and still didn't fix my AC problem I had already change out the final stage resistor and had the AC recharged and dye test prior to the HCV. There was no leak that can be found. My problem is when the AC auto is on, it blows warm air in the middle vents and slightly cold on the driver side and passenger. If I put just the feet, its hot as heck even with AC fully blast at 59 degrees. Its also the same when I have just the windshield on. If I have the face and windshield then its hot up top and warm at the face. But when I have the feet and face on then the face vents are cold but the feel is still hot.... WTF. Does anyone else know what I should check out next? Does any one know where the damper door are located, maybe that is stuck or not working....
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:49 PM   #36
tranceasia8
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Ok I just changed my HCV today and it was a pain since I had to move some parts of my super charger. But for you it is real easy to remove the air intake and then pull up the HCV and loosen the 2 hose clamp and electrical plug. Then replace and do the reverse steps. Some coolant will leak out but just top it off afterward.

Well, all this work and still didn't fix my AC problem I had already change out the final stage resistor and had the AC recharged and dye test prior to the HCV. There was no leak that can be found. My problem is when the AC auto is on, it blows warm air in the middle vents and slightly cold on the driver side and passenger. If I put just the feet, its hot as heck even with AC fully blast at 59 degrees. Its also the same when I have just the windshield on. If I have the face and windshield then its hot up top and warm at the face. But when I have the feet and face on then the face vents are cold but the feel is still hot.... WTF. Does anyone else know what I should check out next? Does any one know where the damper door are located, maybe that is stuck or not working....
the blender doors are located under the cabin filter. remove the top, filter, torx bolts, and lower tray assembly. once you pull all that out you can see it behind the firewall. Its a light yellow/whitish color with 2 outer doors.


if you mess it the buttons you'll see them move. there's also a slider towards the top of the doors that will let you un-clip the doors and remove them.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:50 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by tranceasia8 View Post
the blender doors are located under the cabin filter. remove the top, filter, torx bolts, and lower tray assembly. once you pull all that out you can see it behind the firewall. Its a light yellow/whitish color with 2 outer doors.


if you mess it the buttons you'll see them move. there's also a slider towards the top of the doors that will let you un-clip the doors and remove them.
Thanks for the info but that didn't help me. I took the cabin filter out to check it out anyway. I did see what you mean but that is the blower and I see it working. When the AC is on the doors close and when AC is off the door open for outside air. The next thing Im going to check out is swap my AC controller with a friend to see if mine is bad. If that is not it then only thing left I can think of are the motors that control the flap under the dash.

If anyone have similar problems, please let me know how your fixed it.
TIA,
Charlie

PS. I also notice that my pusher fan whines when the AC is on, that is not normal but not sure if that means its going to die on me?
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Last edited by Yellowmann; 07-30-2008 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 07-31-2008, 07:05 PM   #38
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my a/c problem is that the compressor isn't turning because the clutch isn't locking. the car sat for a good while because the engine overheated and I just didn't get around to working on it. just drove the car a few miles last night and the a/c wasn't working. checked the fuses and that isn't it. maybe I have a wire I didn't connect.
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:05 PM   #39
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I just swap out the climate control unit with my friend to see if that would fix the problem. No luck at all since it still causing heat at the feet and cold in the face. The only thing left I can think of are the motors that control the flap under the dash. I also notice that my pusher fan whines when the AC is on. Does anyone know what else I can check before I have to take it to the stealership
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:34 PM   #40
Necochino
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I just discovered the same problem on my 325 cic today. Left side cold air, right side warm air. In addition, I can not turn off the "auto" function, so I'm wondering if something else than low coolant might be the problem. Any ideas out there? I'm considering unplugging the battery for an hour or so to see if that fixes it.
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