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Old 05-30-2008, 07:15 PM   #1
franz
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It was a good day...fluids, CDV...

I really enjoy working on this car. Since I looked at new cars a couple weeks ago when my wife bought a new Subaru, I decided to renew my commitment to the trusty e46.

Tuesday it was swaybars.

Today after work I put the car up on ramps & jackstands & did the CDV delete,
bled the brakes & clutch with the blue stuff (old fluid looked terrible),
changed transmission fluid with MTL (almost 2 years/30k since last time, it looked great),
redline 75-90 for the diff, and d4ATF for the power steering reservoir (not a full flush).
I also set the front sways to full stiff while I was under there.
I was surprised the car wasn't that hot, it only sat about an hour after my long drive home.

It feels really good doing all that stuff. I had worried about bleeding the clutch and that's why I waited so long to do the CDV delete, but it ended up being a piece of cake with the pressure bleeder. I shouldn't have waited!

67k miles now, it should be good to go until next spring when I plan on doing the cooling stuff. I guess I am waiting since it's CPO until then.

Oh yeah, I also ordered the eibach pro-kit springs and new strut mounts, those will go in next week
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:22 PM   #2
NOVAbimmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franz View Post
I really enjoy working on this car.
I completely agree. Working on the car is a great way to unwind at the end of the day
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:06 PM   #3
ManUtd8
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How does it feel after the CDV delete?
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:15 PM   #4
franz
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I haven't driven it really hard but I know it will make a huge difference because sometimes when I take off hard it will slip for a moment then engage, I just know it's the CDV hanging up.
Also, I had a 98 540/6 that was vastly improved when I took the CDV out. Though it took me a long time to get around to it I am kicking myself, it was way too easy. I only lost a drop of fluid because I clamped the hose, I bet I didn't even need to bleed. It was time for new fluid though.

Take a clamp, an 11mm, 2 17mm a rag and some light, it's SO simple.
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:44 PM   #5
shock29
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CDV Delete : Took it out 4 days ago after driving with it for 1 year. I am kicking my self for contemplating it but never doing it. 1st and 2nd gear engage so much nicer! You will appreciate it after the first day. Your clutch will grab much better
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:00 PM   #6
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when you changed your transmission fluid, did you do it just liek the DIYs said or do you have to pump it out to fully change it? A friend told me that if you just drain it and refill it you just change what is right there and you dont get it all out. is that true or can you just drain it to change it?
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:12 PM   #7
JonnyB
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don't forget a tiny 7mm wrench for the bleed plug

ask me how I know




Quote:
Originally Posted by franz View Post
I haven't driven it really hard but I know it will make a huge difference because sometimes when I take off hard it will slip for a moment then engage, I just know it's the CDV hanging up.
Also, I had a 98 540/6 that was vastly improved when I took the CDV out. Though it took me a long time to get around to it I am kicking myself, it was way too easy. I only lost a drop of fluid because I clamped the hose, I bet I didn't even need to bleed. It was time for new fluid though.

Take a clamp, an 11mm, 2 17mm a rag and some light, it's SO simple.
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Old 06-01-2008, 04:17 PM   #8
franz
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You don't have to flush a manual transmission, what you are talking about is for an auto transmission. Manuals drain & fill fine. I changed when I got the car @ 30k & now @ 67k.

As for the clutch, yup, it's a 7mm. And 9mm for the brakes. I flushed the whole system with ATE blue.
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:16 PM   #9
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So how did it feel adjusting the front sways to the stiffest setting? When installing mine on Friday, I set the front to the middle, and the rear to the stiffest, and it's great. I am also going to be replacing my CDV with the modified one from Zeckhausen. I have had it in my glove box for about 4 months, debating on whether or not I should do it.

One question though regarding the brake fluid: Is it okay to top of my fluid with another brand? Which brake fluid should I use?

EDIT: I saw you used ATE Blue, but can I add that to my existing fluid?
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:58 AM   #10
tony325ci_51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franz View Post

the CDV delete - a piece of cake with the pressure bleeder - it was way too easy. I only lost a drop of fluid because I clamped the hose -

Take a
(brake hose) clamp, an 11mm (open ended, preferably a flare spanner), 2x 17mm (open-ended spanners), a rag and some new clean DOT4 fluid, it's SO simple.

As for (bleed nipples), clutch is a 7mm. (And for info, brakes are 9mm.)
Summarised for the important bits, edited for clarity.

Thank you for this info, this is a great help, I'm intending CDV delete soon.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:06 PM   #11
franz
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ATE blue is mixable with stock brake fluid, they are both DOT4. The sways are nice all the way stiff in front, and I will probably up the rear too, now that I am used to the handling. I didn't want it too loose until I had some experience with it.
An interesting note with sways, they make the car feel lowered, even though I am still on the stock (sport) springs. I guess it's because it handles so well that it feels like the CG was lowered.

As for tools, I used a simple needle nose type vice-grip pliers, a small c-clamp would be fine also. For the clutch bleed I highly recommend a non-flare type wrench over the flare type. It's not very tight and I had to keep turning the wrench around to work it, you have very little throw room available up there. A nice 90-degree bleed hose end is sweet too, especially for bleeding the brakes without taking the wheels off. I hadn't done it that way before but it's SO much faster. I pumped the pressure bleeder up to 20 psi and didn't even need to add pressure for the entire flush job, it ended up at 15psi.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:07 PM   #12
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I agree that these cars are fun to work on. So much information out there and relatively easy to take apart. Great way to chillax for a while.
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Old 06-04-2008, 08:28 PM   #13
tony325ci_51
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today wasn't such a good day

Quote:
Originally Posted by franz View Post
ATE blue is mixable with stock brake fluid, they are both DOT4.

For the clutch bleed I highly recommend a non-flare type wrench over the flare type. It's not very tight and I had to keep turning the wrench around to work it, you have very little throw room available up there.
Agreed on the clutch bleed, a short ring spanner would be ideal. Flare spanners are recommended more for brake pipe work, so maybe for the 11mm CDV union.

So why wasn't today a good day. Well I got home from work, sun shining, full of enthusiasm for a CDV delete and brake and clutch fluid bleed. 7pm I'm outside driving the car up on ramps proudly using my newly-made pre-ramps:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...6&postcount=63

I get under the car to take a look around. Useful in itself to see what's what and get familiar with where everything is.

Then the snags. Why do I have every spanner I can think of except a 7mm ?

My fliud reservoir says use Dot4 fluid from a new unopened container. I check the one in the shed which I bought a while ago to do the job and found it's open and only half full. Must have used some before, but on what car ? Better not use that then, could have been unsealed for quite a while.

Read the tin which says "synthetic - Do not mix with mineral brake fluid" what's in my car ? what should I be using ?

Have drain tube with non-return valve for one-man bleeding Realise that to fit drain tube nicely the wheels are going to have to come off. So much for driving up on ramps.

Decide that as I can't do the job tonight, while I'm under here anyway I'll just check I have a spanner that snugly fits brake bleed nipple. Pulled off rubber cover and brake pad wear-sensor wire comes off too, with sensor hanging loose. Now to put that back I'm going to have to take the front wheel off anyway.

Lifted car off ramps using tedious jacks, stands combo. Took front wheel off. Sensor won't stay tightly in. Consulted Haynes manual how to refit sensor with spring clip. Still won't stay tightly in. Probably why it pinged loose so easily to start with. Luckily pads are like new, won't be needing the sensor for a while. Decided I couldn't risk sensor being so loose and possibly falling out with clip grinding into brake caliper or disc (US:rotor). Tied sensor up out of harms way with cable ties.

Dark now, no fun anymore working by torch-light. (Done that too many times over the years, oh well at least it wasn't cold). Put wheel on, lowered car using tedious jacks, stands combo, torqued wheelnuts (yes, I did), put everything away, having achieved nothing.

Apart from getting photos of my new pre-ramps in action and a photo of my transmission sticker label at last, unhelpfully tucked way above the fill plug where it's almost impossible to see (why is madrussian's so much more conveniently located?). At least now I know what gearbox I have and what fluid is in it.

So questions I am left with: Is my brake fluid synthetic ? Is my diff oil 75w90 synthetic ?
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:56 PM   #14
UTL1098
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I finally did my CDV today, and it's great!

That being said, I have an OEM ZHP CDV for sale. Asking $40 shipped
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Old 06-06-2008, 04:04 PM   #15
shock29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_mikes7 View Post
I finally did my CDV today, and it's great!

That being said, I have an OEM ZHP CDV for sale. Asking $40 shipped
Lol, you just raved about how great the car is without it, now yer tryin to sell it for $40
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Old 06-07-2008, 12:13 AM   #16
UTL1098
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^I was totally kidding
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:58 PM   #17
tony325ci_51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franz View Post
Today after work I put the car up on ramps & jackstands & did the CDV delete..
bled the brakes & clutch..
changed transmission fluid with MTL..
Today I finally got the warm evening I was waiting for:
so after work I put the car up on ramps & jackstands & did the CDV delete.



Bled the brakes & clutch.. - with BMW Brake fluid - was easy with a one-man non-return valve tube, though you do have to pump the pedal.







Changed transmission fluid with MTL. - with BMW MTF-LT-2



Checked tyres, brake disks (rotors) and pads.

Couldn't change rear diff fluid as I didn't have an allen drive that big. What size are they ?
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Old 07-23-2008, 08:09 PM   #18
franz
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Mine was 14mm, my e30 was 17mm allen.
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Old 07-23-2008, 08:18 PM   #19
tony325ci_51
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Thanks Franz, 14mm sounds about right.
Just ordered one of these:

Draper DRAIN PLUG KEY 14MM HEXAGON 3/8" SQUARE DRIVE

You can find them here:
http://www.drapertools.com/b2c/b2cit...pp_skmno=38327
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:45 AM   #20
tony325ci_51
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WORD OF WARNING for transmission fluid change.

I read on one of the other BMW forums but it's certainly worth mentioning here to those planning the job:

As the MTF is supposedly "lifetime" fluid you may not easily find torque specs for the drain plug, as it's a job you're not expected to do. But be aware:
The drain plug is steel and has an engineering thread. The gearbox is softer alloy. If you overtighten the drain plug you could split the softer alloy of the gearbox thread. I tightened mine to roughly where you could tell it had been (the clean bit of thread) and then just until it felt tight enough, which seems ok. Do just be careful.
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