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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-05-2011, 10:46 AM   #81
haurelio
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great work.. would this fit the hard to open door? i tried loosing and tightin the allen screw but the screw became loose and is actually worse..
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Old 02-06-2011, 04:26 AM   #82
C-J
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Originally Posted by haurelio View Post
great work.. would this fit the hard to open door? i tried loosing and tightin the allen screw but the screw became loose and is actually worse..
Not sure what you mean!
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:33 AM   #83
unboringuy
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Front Passenger Door Won't Unlock

Last weekend I replaced the right passenger window regulator. The window works fine. When I put the door panel back on, the door would not close. I removed the panel again, removed the white interior door handle clip, reattached it, and everything seemed to work fine. Today, I cannot get that door open using the remote, the exterior door handle, the console lock/unlock button, the lock stem on the door, or the interior door handle. Last evening the console lock/unlock button was working sporadically. Today it seems fine for the other 3 doors.

Pulling off the door panel again, when I tug on the cable, the door unlocks. What could I possibly have done to cause this problem?

Any thoughts on what the problem could be??? Lock actuator, GM5, something jammed or unhooked? When I tried to close the door after tugging the cable to unlock the door, it wouldn't close, so I used the remote to unlock and lock, and the door closed. But now it is locked and will not unlock. I'm perplexed. Since this happened after the window regulator was replaced, I would suspect something relatively benign but I don't know.

Help!
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:44 AM   #84
haurelio
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I meant *FIX the hard to open door from outside.
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:20 AM   #85
C-J
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Originally Posted by haurelio View Post
I meant *FIX the hard to open door from outside.
You would need to remove a little rubber bung on the door near where the 3 torx screws are

there is an allen key which adjusts the amount of play in the exterior door handle before it opens the latch inside the door lock/actuator

You want to loosen the allen key pull the exterior door handle a little bit then tighten the allen key again. DO NOT CLOSE DOOR UNTIL ALLEN KEY TIGHT as by doing this its adjusting the handle
It maybe your handle is pulling the latch to open the door...but not enough.

Fiddle with the screw, open door and manually close the door locking latch (where it hits the silver part on the inner door frame) and pull the exterior handle, see if the door latch opens from outside OK (without shutting the door) keep fiddling until it does!

There should be about 2mm to 5mm of play before the door opens with the handle; check this out;

ABOUT HALFWAY DOWN http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/55/59

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Old 02-07-2011, 04:50 PM   #86
unboringuy
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Any help with my problem???
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:43 PM   #87
haurelio
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unboringuy

what you are experiencing is sounds more like the door actuator.. try resetting the keys first. and if that doesn't work look into the actuator.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
C-J

thank your tip. but that's how i mess up my door in the first place. i think something broke inside and it made the door even worse.. today my beautiful grilfriend pulled so hard on the handle that she problaly broke the pins inside the lock actuator.. Now the door won't even open from inside or the outside.. is there any way to open the door? or do i have to take the inside panel with the door close?
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:53 PM   #88
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I did this last night and noticed that it's much different for a sedan. There is no male Torx bolt that you need to remove, but the rearmost window rail is still in the way. I ended up lowering the window almost all the way, until I saw the little 8mm-head bolt that holds the window to the rail. Remove that, then dislodge the window from the little red clip on the rail. Then remove the two nuts holding the rail to the door, move the rail towards the front of the car and the actuator can come out.

I recommend having replacement door clips on hand. None of mine will hold the door panel tightly anymore. I need to replace all of them.

This was on a 2003 ZHP sedan.
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:16 PM   #89
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2011_07_01 Just Completed Replacement of Front Right Door Actuator

I have a 2003 330ci Conv and followed the instructions in this thread to replace my Door Lock Actuator. The part online was $120 to $130 at five different places so it was more than this thread originally said. But worth it.

Note, as a handy guy I still found this to be less than easy to do. I could not get the original actuator out without removing the glass from the window. The instructions refer to "Female Torx Sockets" required for removing the window . . . the local auto parts stores had no idea what I was looking for. Went to Pep Boys and asked . . . they had no idea but I went to the socket aisle to see. I found one set and they are called Series E Sockets and you need an E-7 size to remove the window. DON'T forget . . . these are reverse threaded so Righty - Loosey in this case.

To remove the window completely you'l losten the front and then remove a bolt completely on the rear. Then you'll use Needle Nose pliars to take out a black plastic 6 sided sleeve that lines up the window and protects it from the bolt. Once that is out the window appears to want to come out. BUT IT WON'T unless you first pull off the inside window rubber guide (watch out for its sharp edges). The reason it won't is the window has a metal guid attached to it.

Once I had the window out it was an easy fix and the way the car is engineered . . . it was easy to put back together since the holes automatically allign the window and window track.

I can now unlock my passenger door with the key and it locks every time as well. Worth the $130 in parts instead of an initial mechanic estimate in excess of $550.

Last edited by macker; 07-01-2011 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:49 PM   #90
CharlieFoxtrot
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I just ordered an actuator from ECSTuning.com. It was $103.60 plus $10.96 shipping. The next lowest price was from getbmwparts.com (Tischer BMW of Silver Spring MD), about $10 higher, shipped. I was tempted to spend the extra $10, just to get it from Tischer. Will let you know how I like ECS' service.

I also have an 02 330Ci convertible. Hoping this does the trick. My passenger door locks with the remote or the console button or the key turned 45* in the drivers door lock, but does not unlock except by pulling the inner door handle. By all the other methods, the passenger door lock knob DOES wiggle a bit and the mechanism clicks. It's trying to unlock, but it can't.

Thanks, Paraklas and everyone else, for this helpful thread.

BMWGM5.com has another good actuator DIY that I don't think is referenced here.


Here's another good one on M3Forum.net.

Finally, something from BMW TIS that was kind of mentioned above.

later
kevin
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Old 07-14-2011, 03:02 PM   #91
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Should have spent the extra $10 and ordered from Tischer. ECS didn't have it in stock, adding a 1-3 day delay.


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Old 07-20-2011, 06:51 PM   #92
CharlieFoxtrot
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The new actuator is in and the locks work!! Thanks again everyone!

I remember seeing somewhere a post on how to reassemble the little window hardware pieces that hold the window to the track if they fall into the door, including a reminder to look for the little 3rd part that fell in, when you think the two pieces you found are all you need. Anyone know where that post is?

Last edited by CharlieFoxtrot; 07-20-2011 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:12 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by CharlieFoxtrot View Post
The new actuator is in and the locks work!! Thanks again everyone!

I remember seeing somewhere a post on how to reassemble the little window hardware pieces that hold the window to the track if they fall into the door, including a reminder to look for the little 3rd part that fell in, when you think the two pieces you found are all you need. Anyone know where that post is?
This
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=600213&page=3
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:15 AM   #94
CharlieFoxtrot
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Doh! Right here in this same thread, of course! Thanks.....
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:08 PM   #95
warrior9504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad328Luv View Post
When I first installed the door lock, it would lock, but not unlock with the door handle. After consulting Bentley, all you have to do is remove a small rubber plug from the door which is on the latch side above the latch but below the big rubber flap. There in an allen bolt in there. You simply loosen it, then tighten it up again. Worked perfectly afterwards. Going on 3 weeks since the repair and all is good.
In case anyone else here is as dense as I am... Here is a picture of the allen bolt you need to loosen to help your door lock connect to the newly installed actuator:
Click image for larger version

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I kept messing with the allen bolt on the actuator itself, idiot!
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:56 AM   #96
george11111
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Hey guys, im hoping to build on some of your experience since im not sure what kind of problem i have (actuator, cable ...). Below is the puzzling issue im facing:

Problem: Even though the drivers door of my e46 coupe is unlocked, it wont open (neither from the outside nor from the inside).

Extra info:
1). Surprisingly, suddenly at times it starts opening normally! but then after a short while back to the same problem (unlocked but not opening neither from the inside or the outside).

2). I unlock my car manually using the key (since the remote battery seems to be dead) but it unlocks fine and I've been doing it long before this problem.

3). The central lock only opens the passenger door and not the drivers door. However, this is recent and the original problem existed before this issue.

Any help what the problem could be? And what parts I need to change? ...something electrical or mechanical, or both :o ?

Thanks
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:46 AM   #97
raakME-CU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george11111 View Post
Hey guys, im hoping to build on some of your experience since im not sure what kind of problem i have (actuator, cable ...). Below is the puzzling issue im facing:

Problem: Even though the drivers door of my e46 coupe is unlocked, it wont open (neither from the outside nor from the inside).

Extra info:
1). Surprisingly, suddenly at times it starts opening normally! but then after a short while back to the same problem (unlocked but not opening neither from the inside or the outside).

2). I unlock my car manually using the key (since the remote battery seems to be dead) but it unlocks fine and I've been doing it long before this problem.

3). The central lock only opens the passenger door and not the drivers door. However, this is recent and the original problem existed before this issue.

Any help what the problem could be? And what parts I need to change? ...something electrical or mechanical, or both :o ?

Thanks
I think you should replace driver's door lock actuator AND both unlock cables that run to outer and inner door handles. Since the cables should be cheap and you have to open the door panel for actuator replacement already. That should not add too much work to the overall process. Check realoem for the parts list.

The actuator has both electrical and mechanical parts (i.e. connected to inner door unlock cable to unlock and open the door manually if electrical part fails). In your case, both electrical and mechanical parts inside of actuator are gone.

Since you can unlock the door using your key, the lock cylinder is still ok and needs no replacement.

Good luck and please let us know how it goes.
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:41 AM   #98
george11111
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As an update, i replace the key fob battery to see how the central lock will behave. What happens is:

- When i push the unlock button none of the doors open. (the drivers is supposed to open).
- When i push the unlock again the passenger door opens (normal behavior).
- I then use the key to get the knob of drivers door to open (goes up) ....but the door wont open neither from inside or outside even though the knob is up.
- Pushing the lock button on the key fob locks both doors! .....but the button on the center console only controls the passenger door (lock / unlock).

Im gonna take it to a professional tomorrow to get it diagnosed. It seems you're right about the lock needing replacement but I doubt the cables do. (When the drivers door is locked I can use the inner handle to get the knob up meaning the cable is fine .....but a second push on the inner handle wont get the door to open meaning that eventhough the knob went up the door is still double locked for some reason). :S
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:14 PM   #99
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Paraklas -- thanks for taking the time to do this DIY! I knocked the project out in under 2 hours following your guidance -- wouldn't have gotten anywhere without it.

One thing that wasn't intuitively obvious to me was how to move the window rail in order to get the actuator out. What finally worked for me was:
- Raise the window back up
- Push the bottom of the window rail into the door panel
- While still pushing on the rail, slide it away from the actuator (i.e., to the right on the driver's side door)

Once the rail was in that position, there was actually quite a bit of room at the bottom of the door to pull the actuator out. I think lifting the window all the way up helped.

The other thing I would've done different is that I would've taken the lock plunger off before starting -- it got a little scuffed up during the actuator removal kabuki-dance.

Although it was a bit of grief and I'm now the proud owner of e-series sockets (wonder when I'll ever use those again), it was vastly better than dealing with a shop and spending $100s extra for the privilege.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:27 AM   #100
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First of all, thanks to the OP for this thread!

I did this this morning and it only took me 1.5 hours. It really was a piece of CAKE! I've done Honda lock actuators and they are MUCH harder!

I'm posting this pic because at first i was confused on how the hell to get the damn thing out once everything was disconnected and unbolted... Well i'll tell you that loosening the window rail and reverse thread window bolt is a NECESSITY! Once the bolt and two nuts are removed, CAREFULLY pull the window rail TOWARDS the front of the car as shown by the arrows, the top bolt is pretty much in place and WONT move, only PIVOT. The bottom stud will pop out and you can move it JUST enough to squeeze the actuator out in between the door and the LEFT SIDE of the window rail.

HOPE THIS HELPS! Mine works like a charm, thank god no more going to the pass side to unlock my driver's door lol

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Last edited by boostedisbetter; 02-19-2012 at 10:29 AM.
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